rtropp

Why would there be two different methods of framing? I never noticed that before... but then I am not that experienced.
Thanks
R

Thank you for the time and effort it took to post this article.  It is clear, concise and easy to follow.  
This will help a lot of folks including me.
I was unable to find an English version of Apprendre le modelisme naval and my language skills are wholly inadequate or I would be tempted to build along rather than just read along.
 
 
Richard

Looking great.  I am close to the point of restarting my Syren after a few years away and would look to yours as well as Jesse's to help move forward.
Richard 

Thank you for the time and effort it took to post this article.  It is clear, concise and easy to follow.  
This will help a lot of folks including me.
I was unable to find an English version of Apprendre le modelisme naval and my language skills are wholly inadequate or I would be tempted to build along rather than just read along.
 
 
Richard

Thank you for the time and effort it took to post this article.  It is clear, concise and easy to follow.  
This will help a lot of folks including me.
I was unable to find an English version of Apprendre le modelisme naval and my language skills are wholly inadequate or I would be tempted to build along rather than just read along.
 
 
Richard

Thank you for the time and effort it took to post this article.  It is clear, concise and easy to follow.  
This will help a lot of folks including me.
I was unable to find an English version of Apprendre le modelisme naval and my language skills are wholly inadequate or I would be tempted to build along rather than just read along.
 
 
Richard

Thank you Gary and Michael!
 
It are weird days! Since yesterday noon Belgium went into lockdown. Our youngest daughter left for a three weeks trip to Thailand with her boyfriend ten days ago, just before the Corona epidemy became exigent in our part of the world. We hope that they can return home without too much troubles. Maybe they are now safer where they are now than here. The good news is that I didn't hear yet of contagions in our family or circle of acquaintances. I hope that that is also the case in our modelshipworld community.
Now that we have to stay home  a lot of time goes to the execution of small jobs with are waiting already a long time to be done and to modeling. During the last days I planked the hull:
 
9. Planking the hull  
 
Once again: this will be a dissected model, so only the portside will be planked and even in that port side I will omit some strakes.
I start with the garboard.  To determine the shape of it, I lay a straight and flexible lath around the hull at the height where I want the have the upper side of the garboard.

Then I measure the width of the space between the lath and the edge of the garboard notch in the keel along the frames and mark it on the lath.

I draw the frame lines on the plank which will become the garboard. That plank has a straight side. From that side I mark the measured widths on the plank.

The edge of the garboard is obtained by connecting all the marks with a fluent pencil line. I use a flexible strip of wood and some weights to draw my line.

After being sawn an sanded.

Gluing the garboard on the model.

Between the wale and the garboard come eleven strakes. I mark the strakes on every third frame. Measuring the length of the frame between the wale and the garboard with a strip of paper.

With the help of a proportion diagram I divide the strip in eleven equal parts...

and I bring over the division on the frame.

 

The upper side of the garboard is straight, so I assume that I can put a strake beside it which has also a straight edge and a curved upper edge. To determine the curve I measure the strake markings on the frames and mark them on the plank, measuring from the straight side.

 

With the help of my flexible lath and the weights I connect the pencil marks with a fluent curved line.

When the plank is sawn and the edge smoothly sanded , it can be glued beside the garboard.

When I lay my straight lath besides the edge of the just laid plank, I am pleasantly surprised to see that I can make next strake again with a straight side.

And here it is also glued.

I am out of long planks, so I saw some and plane them to 2.5 mm. I have no dust extraction system on my table saw therefore the sawing is done outside in a corner of the garden where no one is bordered by the noise and the saw dust.

Planing them to 2.5 mm thickness.
 

At this side I stop the planking of the bottom side of the hull. Between the last placed plank and the floor heads thick stuff there will be left open two strakes. I now start the with upper side. The wale is a straight plank so the upper side of the new plank will also be a straight side. The lower side is tapered according to the subdivisions on the frames. On the pictures the plank is sawn, sanded and glued.

 

Almost unbelievable: Next to the tapered side I can place again my straight lath so the upper side of the next plank will again be straight with a tapered side at the bottom. Below that plank I will leave again two strakes uncovered.

 

The floor head thick stuff (on this vessel that plank is as thick as the other planks).

The adjacent planks at both sides have to be lofted (my luck cannot last forever). Below a summary of the lofting process of the bottom plank. I use the method as taught by Tony Levine in the Half Hull Planking Project. Instead of tape I use short paper strips to tape along the strake (I am afraid that a 70 cm long strip of pieces tape will deform too much when taking it off the model). Here I tape the paper strips on the model and mark the edge of the strake as well as the frames with a strake subdivision.

 

The strip is taken of the model and glued on the plank which will become the strake.

Measuring the strake width on the model and marking it on the paper strip.
 
All the marks are connected with a curved line and that is the shape of the final plank.

Now it is sawn and the edges are smoothly sanded.
 
Gluing the final plank.

 
Thank you for reading
Thank you to follow
Thank you for the likes
and thank you for your constructive comments,
 
Till next week and keep it healthy!

Thanks for the tip Ed.
 
Richard

regarding planer / jointer and how to live without one.
 
I found two interesting videos on YouTube.  I was wondering what our more experienced members thought of them. 
 
The first is how to build and use a table saw jig to flatten and edge a board.
 

 
the next one show how to flatten and dimension rough boards by hand. It looks pretty straight forward but I suspect the tools would cost almost as much as a planer/jointer.
 

 
Richard

I wanted to see if I could solve the ripping question without resorting to additional tools. (Ones that would really start to crowd my small workshop.) So started playing around with the possibilities with my existing tools.
 
As I though about it, I realized that I very rarely needed pieces that were more than 2" wide.  This thought came to me from working on the Triad cross section and the Syren. Of course other builds might change this but I could worry about it then.  Also,  I could always buy the occasional sheet of in three or four inch wide stock if needed.
 
So I tried an experiment with some 1 inch thick  by four inch wide basswood that I have on hand. 
 
First I cut the 4" wide plank into 2 inch wide planks. (so I ended up with two pieces that were 1'" thick x2" wide x24 long piece" 
 
Then marked a center line along the edge of one of the cut planks.
 

 
Next, with my Byrnes blade extended to its full height, I made two opposing cuts in the center of each 1" edge so the cut would meet in the center. ( I took this picture of the first cut while it was still 4" wide. Given the blade capacity, I would only get planks that were 15/16" wide after turning it on the side to cut out each piece. So I tried again by first cutting the four inches down to two inches, then made the opposing center cuts.  Of course I forgot to take a picture of this, but you get the idea.
 

 
The blade was large enough to overlap slightly at the center of the board giving me two planks that were 1/2" by 2" by 24"
 

 
I  put each of those planks flat on its 2" wide side and cut it into 1/8" and 1/4" planks at 2" wide. Below is a 1/8" by 2" x 24" plank
 

 
This should work as well if the board was two inches thick (actually with a 15/16" cut depth the maximum would be a little less than two inches.) 
 
As I read through this I see that my explanation is more complex than the actual production of the planks.  it also occurs to me that different cutting sequences can be used to obtain different results.  Rhis first try seemed to work for Basswood.  I will also have to see how it works on the boxwood and pear when it arrives.
 
I guess will need to see if 2" wide will really cover most of my needs.  While the 1" wide planks that I made in my experiment were too narrow for some of the frame sections on the Triton cross section, the two inch wide should get it.
 
If not, its back to figuring out where to put a band saw, and, now as I understand it, I also need a jointer. I wonder if my wife would let me make the sunroom our living room and make the living room my my shop.... nah, not a chance.
 
Richard

I am using a Triple Duty Foam Cradle for Model Ships that I bought from MicroMark (Item #: 85819)... about $19. It is very flexible with two removable sections that allow it to fit most boats and use in many positions. I have found it very adaptable to most work from planking to painting.
 
The only thing I used a vise for was the original framing of the bulkheads. There I wanted something that held the full length of the keel to help keep it straight. I tried the ship clamp sold at Model Expo, and it was ok, but found the vise on my workbench was even better for that.
 
I also read from one of our members about using a sock filled with rice. Sounds like a much cheaper and more flexible answer.
 
Richard

I was having difficulty with accurate, and quick, calculations.  I found an application for my IPhone called Model Scaler.  It was a free application in the Iphone app library and best of all, while it had some presets geared to train enthusiasts, it allowed you to put in custom scales.  So, I could enter the actual size, say 60 feet, and it would translate it to the size in 1/64, i.e., 11.25 inches, or convert into any other scale I chose.
 
Richard

I was having difficulty with accurate, and quick, calculations.  I found an application for my IPhone called Model Scaler.  It was a free application in the Iphone app library and best of all, while it had some presets geared to train enthusiasts, it allowed you to put in custom scales.  So, I could enter the actual size, say 60 feet, and it would translate it to the size in 1/64, i.e., 11.25 inches, or convert into any other scale I chose.
 
Richard

Thanks to all who responded.  The wood was sold to the first buyer who bought the whole lot. My wife informs me that she remembers there being more so I might be posting again. 
Thank you all
 
Hi,
My wife and I have been preparing to downsize and I ran across a batch of lumber I bought from Hobby Mill just before they shut down.
 
Wood Types
I have pieces that are boxwood, cherry, holly, Swiss pear, and walnut. These are a mix of:
Cut to size and finished. Cut to size but unfinished Cut to size and slightly blemished, most are unfinished Also there are some small blocks suitable for carving.  
Pricing
Prices, in U.S. dollars, are listed in the spreadsheet below. Shipping and Handling will be calculated and added as actual costs. My payment preference is PayPal. I will send an invoice once shipping and handling are calculated.
PM me if you need my phone number. I am located near Atlanta, Georgia, USA.
 
Bulk discount
A single purchaser of the entire inventory will receive a 20% discount. I will not be selling individual pieces or custom mixes at this time.  Each wood type is sold as a complete batch.  Individual prices are posted only to give an idea of how cost were calculated.
 
Pictures
The first picture shows some of the pieces. The second picture is a sample of pieces that are cut to size but unfinished (not smooth sanded.)  The third picture shows a sample of one of the blemished pieces. It has one of the larger blemishes,most are smaller as in the fourth photo. Only pieces that are described as "Blemish" in the Finish column contain any blemishes.  The other pieces are all clean. 
 



 
Price List
 



 

HobbyMill
Finished
Sheets
Walnut
0.0625
3.000
25.000
1
$2.00
$2.00
HobbyMill
Finished
Sheets
Walnut
0.1250
3.000
25.000
1
$2.00
$2.00
                total
$4.00
 

 
I have not done this before so I hope it is understandable.  Please ask any questions and/or let me know if you spot any errors.
 
I will also be selling two Euromodels, the Falmouth and the Ajax. I have not priced them yet but would be in the range of 60% of their list prices plus shipping and handling. Both are new and in the box.
Thank you,
Richard
 

Thanks to all who responded.  The wood was sold to the first buyer who bought the whole lot. My wife informs me that she remembers there being more so I might be posting again. 
Thank you all
 
Hi,
My wife and I have been preparing to downsize and I ran across a batch of lumber I bought from Hobby Mill just before they shut down.
 
Wood Types
I have pieces that are boxwood, cherry, holly, Swiss pear, and walnut. These are a mix of:
Cut to size and finished. Cut to size but unfinished Cut to size and slightly blemished, most are unfinished Also there are some small blocks suitable for carving.  
Pricing
Prices, in U.S. dollars, are listed in the spreadsheet below. Shipping and Handling will be calculated and added as actual costs. My payment preference is PayPal. I will send an invoice once shipping and handling are calculated.
PM me if you need my phone number. I am located near Atlanta, Georgia, USA.
 
Bulk discount
A single purchaser of the entire inventory will receive a 20% discount. I will not be selling individual pieces or custom mixes at this time.  Each wood type is sold as a complete batch.  Individual prices are posted only to give an idea of how cost were calculated.
 
Pictures
The first picture shows some of the pieces. The second picture is a sample of pieces that are cut to size but unfinished (not smooth sanded.)  The third picture shows a sample of one of the blemished pieces. It has one of the larger blemishes,most are smaller as in the fourth photo. Only pieces that are described as "Blemish" in the Finish column contain any blemishes.  The other pieces are all clean. 
 



 
Price List
 



 

HobbyMill
Finished
Sheets
Walnut
0.0625
3.000
25.000
1
$2.00
$2.00
HobbyMill
Finished
Sheets
Walnut
0.1250
3.000
25.000
1
$2.00
$2.00
                total
$4.00
 

 
I have not done this before so I hope it is understandable.  Please ask any questions and/or let me know if you spot any errors.
 
I will also be selling two Euromodels, the Falmouth and the Ajax. I have not priced them yet but would be in the range of 60% of their list prices plus shipping and handling. Both are new and in the box.
Thank you,
Richard
 

I have used them and found them useful.  the material its squared off sides worked well to quick store stick pins and to keep parts handy, and were especially useful while rigging. I used the large piece of the ship, the smaller part for longboats and smaller ships and the smallest part to brace other pieces while waiting for them to dry.  
Was it essential? No. Was it useful? Yes.  Could I have made my own? Probably.  
Richard  

I have used them and found them useful.  the material its squared off sides worked well to quick store stick pins and to keep parts handy, and were especially useful while rigging. I used the large piece of the ship, the smaller part for longboats and smaller ships and the smallest part to brace other pieces while waiting for them to dry.  
Was it essential? No. Was it useful? Yes.  Could I have made my own? Probably.  
Richard  

I have used them and found them useful.  the material its squared off sides worked well to quick store stick pins and to keep parts handy, and were especially useful while rigging. I used the large piece of the ship, the smaller part for longboats and smaller ships and the smallest part to brace other pieces while waiting for them to dry.  
Was it essential? No. Was it useful? Yes.  Could I have made my own? Probably.  
Richard  

Jaager,
darn... I never stopped to realize that draw plates were originally for wire.  That will be very helpful.
I read that you should stretch the wire to harden it(??) would you do that before or after using the draw plate?
Richard

I wonder if anyone has tried the new Ratliner MS7202 The Shroud Building Tool from model expo?

I wonder if anyone has tried the new Ratliner MS7202 The Shroud Building Tool from model expo?

I wonder if anyone has tried the new Ratliner MS7202 The Shroud Building Tool from model expo?

I wonder if anyone has tried the new Ratliner MS7202 The Shroud Building Tool from model expo?

Hi Jessie,
You cannons look good. I think that the suggestions about sanding or using steel wool should help greatly.  Your cannons are carved nicely and have a great appearance.  Much nicer that the ones supplied.  It is especially nice to see them to scale and happily they still work with the sled supplied. 
 
I am working on turning my own out of boxwood.  I tried a few different ways to paint but was not happy with any of them. At my skill level they looked painted.  So, to try and get a smoother look that kept the detail, I decided to try wood dye.  As I experiment I liked the way it is turning out.  If I look really closely I can see it is wood not brass. 
 
Actually, after a coat of poly it is beginning to look better.  Just for a comparison, I may go back and try painting using the suggestions listed here.  I am experimenting on cannon rejects. The good news is that I have lot to experiment on.  The bad news is that... I have a lot to experiment on :-) 
 
I will be posting the pictures on my build log. Your work has been great to watch and since I am only a bit behind it is very helpful.  
 
Thanks,
Richard

Hi Jessie,
Before I bought my torch I used Solder-it, a low temperature soldering paste.  It is available from Amazon, among other places.
 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058ED0GO?keywords=solder%20it&qid=1446389742&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
Ideal for speeding up soldering tasks Works with the heat of a match or lighter Will join 22 different combinations of metals Easy-to-use, no mess, no-waste syringe 7.1 grams .  
No, its not as good as silver soldering, but that requires a pretty good investment and can be difficult to master. It seems to hold up well, especially in areas that do not experience much pressure or pull.  Mine, so far, have held up just fine.  
 
Richard
 
You might want to try it.