Azzoun

Your build log is primarily for you to share your work and seek assistance.   If there's time between updates, that's more the normal than the exception.   Take your time and enjoy the process, there's no hurry.    Contribute to your build log in a way that serves you, your audience will chime in as they can, if they see it.     If you want more interactions with members on this site, visit their build logs or discussion threads and chime in.     You should check out the New London, Connecticut Northeast Ship Modelers' Conference  on Youtube.  
 
Joshua 

Your build log is primarily for you to share your work and seek assistance.   If there's time between updates, that's more the normal than the exception.   Take your time and enjoy the process, there's no hurry.    Contribute to your build log in a way that serves you, your audience will chime in as they can, if they see it.     If you want more interactions with members on this site, visit their build logs or discussion threads and chime in.     You should check out the New London, Connecticut Northeast Ship Modelers' Conference  on Youtube.  
 
Joshua 

Hey Lego!
 
Looks like you're learning a lot on this build and that's the point!  Despite anything you may be unsatisfied with, when the build is done, it'll be hardly noticeable, especially to those who don't build models.    Keel looks nice and straight now!
 
So, couple fileable items for next time is along with making sure the keel is straight before you start, before you glue in the bulkheads (cross members to the false keel), you'll want to make sure they fit square to the keel.    
 
Is your false deck now glued to the tops of the keel and bulkheads now?   The back section should align with edges of bulkheads like in the front.   You'll definitely want to straighten that out.    If you used the white pva wood glue, rubbing alcohol will dissolve the glue and unbind it if you need to re-do.   
 
To answer your question, the deck planking should be smooth and flush with the other planks, so you'll need to keep sanding to achieve that.  
 
Joshua 

No worries on posting, sometimes I only post once a year!   Not a job     Looks like good progress!

Okay sorry for the delay in posts, I tend to only post every other day. but I work on the model every night from 10pm-12am. so anyway heres an update on my progress, I have started planking..... I think I'm doing it right from what I've seen from other posts, if not please correct me.

I will cut the planks on the bow a little later, probably when I start the other side.

Just a note, before you plank, you'll need to fair the bulkheads to the shape of the hull.  Meaning, take a sanding block and knock the square corners down so they're at an angle the is inline with the shape of the hull so the planks lay flat upon them.  

Hey Lego!
 
Looks like you're learning a lot on this build and that's the point!  Despite anything you may be unsatisfied with, when the build is done, it'll be hardly noticeable, especially to those who don't build models.    Keel looks nice and straight now!
 
So, couple fileable items for next time is along with making sure the keel is straight before you start, before you glue in the bulkheads (cross members to the false keel), you'll want to make sure they fit square to the keel.    
 
Is your false deck now glued to the tops of the keel and bulkheads now?   The back section should align with edges of bulkheads like in the front.   You'll definitely want to straighten that out.    If you used the white pva wood glue, rubbing alcohol will dissolve the glue and unbind it if you need to re-do.   
 
To answer your question, the deck planking should be smooth and flush with the other planks, so you'll need to keep sanding to achieve that.  
 
Joshua 

I think you have a good start here. At this stage, I would consider building the stand so the model has something to rest in as you're working on it. After a certain point the model won't be too much "in hand" so it's good to have it in a protected spot.
 
Something to consider before starting the hull planking -- the deck planks on the fore deck need a landing spot for their aft ends, where the step up to the quarterdeck is. I've included below a photo from my current 1:64 Bluenose build that shows this. I just used off-cut scrapwood to do this after tracing the deck "camber" (the curve of the deck from the centreline to port and starboard) onto the forward face of the bulkhead that defines the forward edge of the quarterdeck. If your bulkheads are already glued in it might be a bit tricky to get this line traced. But if not, you can just lay the last fore deck bulkhead and the first quartedeck bulkhead together with their bottoms aligned and trace the top edge of the forward bulkhead onto the aft one - then lay some scrap strips these so the deck plank ends have a place to sit when you come to the decking. 
 
The hull planking on this model is actually very straightforward compared with others, due to the overall hull shape. The sharp bow means that there is very little bending and only very slight twisting of the hull planks that needs to be done. Some of the planks will need to be tapered at the bows. You'll be able to tell when to start this as you lay the planks since they will start to want to bend upwards and overlap with the previous one installed - when this happens, just note on the plank the point at which it wants to cross over to overlap with the previous one and taper it gently from that point forward.
 
The first hull plank should be laid with its top edge flush with the top of the deck planking. So it might be easiest to first lay a strip of deck planking along the outside edge of the bulkheads - this will serve to simulate the waterways on deck and give you a reference point for the first strip (or "strake" as we say) of hull planking. Below is a picture of this waterway strip laid on my Bluenose prior to beginning the hull planking - hope it helps to clarify what I'm talking about. The strip is laid on top of the bulkheads and flush with the inboard side of the bulkhead extensions.
 
The third photo shows the waterway deck plank and the first outboard hull plank installed - you can't tell really from the photo, but the hull plank's top edge is flush with the top edge of the waterway plank - the rest of the hull planking just flowed from there. Hope you don't mind me posting these photos in your log. 
 
Good luck and keep posting the photos and questions - you'll learn quickly that way!
hamilton
 
 
 

Something to file away for reference for future builds is to check the straightness of the longitudinal profile former (false keel) before mating the bulkheads to it. Yours looks to have a noticeable bend in it. Another recommendation I would make, and this is worth putting your build on hold for a few days or weeks while you do it, is to get a copy of Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini and read it. It's a great introduction to the process of building a wooden model, and particularly so in your case because Frank used a build of the very similar Artesania Latina Bluenose kit to illustrate his methods. I think you would find his book very helpful.
 
Cheers!

Great progress so far!

And if you would indulge me...I forgot that I should test the fit of the transom carvings as well.   There were so many angles to hopefully get correct when developing them.   Doing the transom as one piece was the only way to do it for Speedwell as the carvings are so intertwined.   I was really nervous how everything would fit as it was very expensive to develop these.  But I am relieved to say that the master fits perfectly.  That is such a relief.  I was so stressed about that.  The curved transom as developed sits perfectly in place.  No bending needed.  The shape above the windows and their position also match really well.   
 


 

For free...   you're a young person wanting to build a model, happy to support that.   If you were an adult with a job, I'd charge. 
 
Joshua   

https://www.bluejacketinc.com/    build ships for commission, maybe reach out to them?
 
Joshua 

https://www.bluejacketinc.com/    build ships for commission, maybe reach out to them?
 
Joshua 

Completely understand - I'm happy to chat with your parents on the phone or over zoom. 
 
Joshua 

For free...   you're a young person wanting to build a model, happy to support that.   If you were an adult with a job, I'd charge. 
 
Joshua   

Private message me your address - I'm happy to just send it to ya - if your parents want to make a donation, they can to the Philadelphia Ship Model Society but there's no obligation.    
 
Joshua Fichmann
President PSMS

For free...   you're a young person wanting to build a model, happy to support that.   If you were an adult with a job, I'd charge. 
 
Joshua   

Private message me your address - I'm happy to just send it to ya - if your parents want to make a donation, they can to the Philadelphia Ship Model Society but there's no obligation.    
 
Joshua Fichmann
President PSMS

Completely understand - I'm happy to chat with your parents on the phone or over zoom. 
 
Joshua 

Now you don't have to worry about screwing it up, by the way, every model is screwed up in some way to the builder - screw up as many kits as you can!
 
Joshua 

For free...   you're a young person wanting to build a model, happy to support that.   If you were an adult with a job, I'd charge. 
 
Joshua   

Private message me your address - I'm happy to just send it to ya - if your parents want to make a donation, they can to the Philadelphia Ship Model Society but there's no obligation.    
 
Joshua Fichmann
President PSMS

Mind if I ask your age?

Hey there,

Or you can buy them second hand.  I actually have two kits for sale, 
 
1:100 Model Shipways Bluenose  $80 shipping included
Model Shipways BENJAMIN LATHAM 1:48  $150 shipping included 
 
PM if you're interested,

Joshua