Jaager

The distant inside the frames details are shown at that deck.  This leads me to view the two structures in question as projections of the arms of those two transoms. 
Lower down, what and where those arms are does not affect anything important to any officers.  The two objects in question are in officers' country and do affect someone important.

If you are interested in exploring the bow architecture and bowsprit, there is a paper in NRJ with the title "Which witch is Sea Witch". 
It seems that the two or three old kits and HIC got it wrong.. 
The Scientific Sea Witch was my first ship model - the idea was to have something to decorate a fireplace mantel.  I had zero knowledge of or experience with tools.  
I drilled the holes for the masts using a countersink bit in a hand spiral driver.  The carved hull was soft enough wood to allow this.

Although my current project is the Winchelsea, I also build in plastic at 1:200 and have finished the Arizona and Hornet with others waiting on the shelf. These use a LOT of expensive photo etch brass that is both tiny, fragile, and prone to being eaten by the carpet monster - good tweezers are required. Over the years, I’ve tried pretty much everything available from the hobby vendors and found them not up to the job. I’ve recently had really good luck with tweezers from Dumont that are made for use in biology labs and electronic manufacturing. They’re very expensive but super high quality and come in a large variety of shapes and sizes. They are able to handle the smallest stuff with minimal zingers - recommended. Dumonttweezers.com. 
 
Hope this helps,
Don

If you scabbed a thin piece of wood to flush out the steps, it could be sanded down to the 2mm level without compromising the shell.  Pine is easy to sand and is not nearly as friable as Basswood.  Yellow Poplar would be good for this also.   If it to be exposed to water TiteBond III to bond the scabs.

You do realize that Hawthorn wood was what August Crabtree used for the carvings on his models?  I hope you saved the wood.

A for real horror movie.
 
Were I writing the laws for the planet, machines like those would be limited to use on tree farms.  If there are any original growth forests or old secondary growth even left, it would be human handled cutting machines and draft horses or oxen  and only senile trees would be harvested.   The efficiency of these machines is horrifying.  They are the equivalent of strip mining the surface of a forest.
The one machine missing is a giant chipper shredder for the tops, branches, and parts of the stumps that are not harvested for exotic and specialty grain.

You do realize that Hawthorn wood was what August Crabtree used for the carvings on his models?  I hope you saved the wood.

A for real horror movie.
 
Were I writing the laws for the planet, machines like those would be limited to use on tree farms.  If there are any original growth forests or old secondary growth even left, it would be human handled cutting machines and draft horses or oxen  and only senile trees would be harvested.   The efficiency of these machines is horrifying.  They are the equivalent of strip mining the surface of a forest.
The one machine missing is a giant chipper shredder for the tops, branches, and parts of the stumps that are not harvested for exotic and specialty grain.

You do realize that Hawthorn wood was what August Crabtree used for the carvings on his models?  I hope you saved the wood.

A for real horror movie.
 
Were I writing the laws for the planet, machines like those would be limited to use on tree farms.  If there are any original growth forests or old secondary growth even left, it would be human handled cutting machines and draft horses or oxen  and only senile trees would be harvested.   The efficiency of these machines is horrifying.  They are the equivalent of strip mining the surface of a forest.
The one machine missing is a giant chipper shredder for the tops, branches, and parts of the stumps that are not harvested for exotic and specialty grain.

From reading the tea leaves about all this:
I am betting that we will both be OK using a drill press for wood milling -if
the cutters are sharp and the bites are not aggressive.
I suspect that lateral resistance from wood is significantly lower than that of metal.

A for real horror movie.
 
Were I writing the laws for the planet, machines like those would be limited to use on tree farms.  If there are any original growth forests or old secondary growth even left, it would be human handled cutting machines and draft horses or oxen  and only senile trees would be harvested.   The efficiency of these machines is horrifying.  They are the equivalent of strip mining the surface of a forest.
The one machine missing is a giant chipper shredder for the tops, branches, and parts of the stumps that are not harvested for exotic and specialty grain.

From reading the tea leaves about all this:
I am betting that we will both be OK using a drill press for wood milling -if
the cutters are sharp and the bites are not aggressive.
I suspect that lateral resistance from wood is significantly lower than that of metal.

Sutherland Welles Ltd.  have products that are 3 grades of polymerized Tung oil.  They allow for a faster and more predictable gloss level and much less danger of getting a "never dries" finish.  There is an old post here where a pure Tung oil application - to a table if I remember it correctly.  I suspect that either the product was not as advertised, or too much was applied.  In the latter case, a 50% dilution primer coat was skipped and the coat was a too thick 100%.  I think it case hardened at the surface and blocked oxygen from getting to the oil where a primer should be and it stayed an oil. It was a sticky mess - especially on a table
Floors and tables are probably the one place where the otherwise awful plastic polyurethane finish is the proper choice.

Sutherland Welles Ltd.  have products that are 3 grades of polymerized Tung oil.  They allow for a faster and more predictable gloss level and much less danger of getting a "never dries" finish.  There is an old post here where a pure Tung oil application - to a table if I remember it correctly.  I suspect that either the product was not as advertised, or too much was applied.  In the latter case, a 50% dilution primer coat was skipped and the coat was a too thick 100%.  I think it case hardened at the surface and blocked oxygen from getting to the oil where a primer should be and it stayed an oil. It was a sticky mess - especially on a table
Floors and tables are probably the one place where the otherwise awful plastic polyurethane finish is the proper choice.

Sutherland Welles Ltd.  have products that are 3 grades of polymerized Tung oil.  They allow for a faster and more predictable gloss level and much less danger of getting a "never dries" finish.  There is an old post here where a pure Tung oil application - to a table if I remember it correctly.  I suspect that either the product was not as advertised, or too much was applied.  In the latter case, a 50% dilution primer coat was skipped and the coat was a too thick 100%.  I think it case hardened at the surface and blocked oxygen from getting to the oil where a primer should be and it stayed an oil. It was a sticky mess - especially on a table
Floors and tables are probably the one place where the otherwise awful plastic polyurethane finish is the proper choice.

If the plans are adequate, the kit parts can be replicated from stock wood.  An early introduction into freedom of scratch building.  There may be other parts that can be replaced with scratch built and by starting with better quality wood, have a better looking result. 

I did my usual process of imagining a theoretical way to approach your problem:  bars of polishing compound with a gradation of every finer grit - attaching pieces of leather or shammy leather to a disc - maybe using the DIY hook and loop as a way to attach, go at it with a rotary tool.  -AND - I decided that I would probably skip all of that work and go to a glass shop and have them cut me a piece of mirror to the size that I needed.  Glass should stand up to time better than SS.

If the plans are adequate, the kit parts can be replicated from stock wood.  An early introduction into freedom of scratch building.  There may be other parts that can be replaced with scratch built and by starting with better quality wood, have a better looking result. 

Last month, I was browsing Travers Tool for cutters and came across a sale, so I bit:
 

Travers Tool Co. Inc.

TTC PRODUCTION 10-200-385 3" .012" Thick 1" Hole Dia. 280 Tooth High Speed Steel Jewelers Saw
Item # 10-200-385   Price:$25.55   You Pay:$12.78 EACH  Save 50%    $12.78
TTC PRODUCTION 10-200-395 3" 1/64" Thick 1" Hole Dia. 230 Tooth High Speed Steel Jewelers Saw
Item # 10-200-395   Price:$26.53  You Pay:$13.27 EACH   Save 50%      $13.27
TTC PRODUCTION 10-200-410 3" .023" Thick 1" Hole Dia. 230 Tooth High Speed Steel Jewelers Saw
Item # 10-200-410   Price:$19.23  You Pay:$9.62 EACH  Save 50%           $9.62
TTC PRODUCTION 10-200-445 3" .051" Thick 1" Hole Dia. 168 Tooth High Speed Steel Jewelers Saw
Item # 10-200-445   Price:$26.01   You Pay:$13.01 EACH   Save 50%     $13.01
 
I bought a 1" to 1/2" bushing from Jim Byrnes so these blades are ready to go.
 
Fine tooth jewels blades have no set.   They  are great for cutting a shallow mortise. They are not so good at ripping.  The greater the number of teeth per inch on a blade, the less suitable it is as a ripping blade.  The gullets fill with wood and the either stop the blade, offer a lot of resistance, and or burn the wood.
 
As long as a 4" tablesaw is able to crank into play a 3" blade, it should be high enough above the table to do the necessary depth of cut.  A 4" blade will do it  too, but it is overkill.
 
A shallow, interlocking mortise in the grating boards - both NS and EW  - if done correctly does not need a jig to get a square finished product.
 
I see two ways to cut the mortises that sort of idiot proof the process. 
1) cut the mortises in a block that is the thickness and length of the grating boards and rip that into the final board width.  - this loses about 1/2 as kerf.
2) cut the boards to there final size. Temporarily bond them into a block. Cut the mortises in the block and then use the appropriate solvent to release the bond.

Last month, I was browsing Travers Tool for cutters and came across a sale, so I bit:
 

Travers Tool Co. Inc.

TTC PRODUCTION 10-200-385 3" .012" Thick 1" Hole Dia. 280 Tooth High Speed Steel Jewelers Saw
Item # 10-200-385   Price:$25.55   You Pay:$12.78 EACH  Save 50%    $12.78
TTC PRODUCTION 10-200-395 3" 1/64" Thick 1" Hole Dia. 230 Tooth High Speed Steel Jewelers Saw
Item # 10-200-395   Price:$26.53  You Pay:$13.27 EACH   Save 50%      $13.27
TTC PRODUCTION 10-200-410 3" .023" Thick 1" Hole Dia. 230 Tooth High Speed Steel Jewelers Saw
Item # 10-200-410   Price:$19.23  You Pay:$9.62 EACH  Save 50%           $9.62
TTC PRODUCTION 10-200-445 3" .051" Thick 1" Hole Dia. 168 Tooth High Speed Steel Jewelers Saw
Item # 10-200-445   Price:$26.01   You Pay:$13.01 EACH   Save 50%     $13.01
 
I bought a 1" to 1/2" bushing from Jim Byrnes so these blades are ready to go.
 
Fine tooth jewels blades have no set.   They  are great for cutting a shallow mortise. They are not so good at ripping.  The greater the number of teeth per inch on a blade, the less suitable it is as a ripping blade.  The gullets fill with wood and the either stop the blade, offer a lot of resistance, and or burn the wood.
 
As long as a 4" tablesaw is able to crank into play a 3" blade, it should be high enough above the table to do the necessary depth of cut.  A 4" blade will do it  too, but it is overkill.
 
A shallow, interlocking mortise in the grating boards - both NS and EW  - if done correctly does not need a jig to get a square finished product.
 
I see two ways to cut the mortises that sort of idiot proof the process. 
1) cut the mortises in a block that is the thickness and length of the grating boards and rip that into the final board width.  - this loses about 1/2 as kerf.
2) cut the boards to there final size. Temporarily bond them into a block. Cut the mortises in the block and then use the appropriate solvent to release the bond.

Here in the US lumberyards and Home Improvement stores sell dimensioned construction lumber described as SPF which stands for Spruce, Pine, Fir.  The store where I shop also has 5 quarter pine (1-1/2 in) that believe it or not comes from New Zeeland.  There are several varieties of pine but the stuff sold by these stores as planed boards works fine for carving hulls so would work for the blocks that you need.  It is easy to carve but harder than basswood.
 
Unfortunately I don’t know what is available in Great Britain.
 
Roger

You have provided to geographic location, but if there is access, the poor quality wood can be overlaid with a thin veneer of a species of wood with no pores and a grain that does not clash with the scale of the model.  The only tools needed are a quality knife that is sharp and a steel straight edge.   Then no filling will be necessary.  All that will be needed is a shellac primer (50% strength) and a finish clear coat.  The depth and gloss level is controlled by how many coats of shellac are used and if the final coat is dressed with a very fine abrasive- Scotch Brite.  A veneer of an Acer sp. should provide a proper deck color and scale appropriate grain, hardness, and closed grain surface.
It is much better to use a saw produced veneer.  A roller sliced veneer does not lose much to kerf, but the grain pattern is not a natural one.  The wood wants to curl if allowed.

I buy most of my wood as rough stock. At the lumber yard, the minimum length is 8 feet.  Early on, I kept my stock in 4 foot lengths.  For processing, I cut those into 16 inch lengths.  I found this not to be all that convenient for framing - running out of board too quickly - too many pieces needed and more work for a thickness sander. 
Now, my sweet spot is 2 feet.  Much longer and it would be too long for my bench.  The sanded planks also fit in an Aviditi 3" x 3" x 25" mailing box for storage.  The shorter boxes are not much less in cost, so there is economy there. 
In your place, I would rip the log into 10" x 2" x 24" planks.

You have provided to geographic location, but if there is access, the poor quality wood can be overlaid with a thin veneer of a species of wood with no pores and a grain that does not clash with the scale of the model.  The only tools needed are a quality knife that is sharp and a steel straight edge.   Then no filling will be necessary.  All that will be needed is a shellac primer (50% strength) and a finish clear coat.  The depth and gloss level is controlled by how many coats of shellac are used and if the final coat is dressed with a very fine abrasive- Scotch Brite.  A veneer of an Acer sp. should provide a proper deck color and scale appropriate grain, hardness, and closed grain surface.
It is much better to use a saw produced veneer.  A roller sliced veneer does not lose much to kerf, but the grain pattern is not a natural one.  The wood wants to curl if allowed.