Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Admiralty or Humbrol equal to Model Shipways
Wahka,
Perhaps it would serve your need and pocketbook to drop back to first cases.
Your ship is from the era of mineral paints. The color range was limited and in a broke, always looking for the least expensive everything, country, only those minerals that were common and low cost would have been used.
MS would have selected a best guess range of colors. There is little probability that there is an official USN color pallet from the time.
I would think that doing research on paint colors and history would give you a realistic pallet to choose from.
The quality of European mfg model paint is likely to be, at the least, the equal to the supplier used my MM. So, you are likely to get better for much less using EU made paint. Just make realistic, and informed choices. You will after all, only be replicating what MM will have to have done.
If I remember correctly from my science classes, the vibrant, bright, rainbow colors are a creation of late 19th century German organic chemistry. The chemical and drug industries developed from there. It has given us a brighter, less expensive, wider range of products, more toxic, more cancer filled World.
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Jaager got a reaction from davyboy in Making hooks and knees
I go for option #4. But rotate the pattern ~45 degrees. Get angled cross grain in both arms.
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Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Making hooks and knees
If you are determined to use curved grain, you could follow Davis and collect downed branches from useful species of trees after a wind storm = natural in scale curved stock.
A sure source of the proper species would be a nearby fruit orchard. If they brush pile instead of immediately chipping, there will be already seasoned stock. Just mind the critters inhabiting the brush.
If they let you get green trimmings from a tree, there is the drying /seasoning step.
The urban ornamental Pear trees here have excellent wood for our uses, but the branching is too acute for knees.
Lumber with large knots - the wood around the branch is often the desired arc.
For one ship, a fretsaw and hand plane will get you there -
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Jaager got a reaction from RichardG in Admiralty or Humbrol equal to Model Shipways
Wahka,
Perhaps it would serve your need and pocketbook to drop back to first cases.
Your ship is from the era of mineral paints. The color range was limited and in a broke, always looking for the least expensive everything, country, only those minerals that were common and low cost would have been used.
MS would have selected a best guess range of colors. There is little probability that there is an official USN color pallet from the time.
I would think that doing research on paint colors and history would give you a realistic pallet to choose from.
The quality of European mfg model paint is likely to be, at the least, the equal to the supplier used my MM. So, you are likely to get better for much less using EU made paint. Just make realistic, and informed choices. You will after all, only be replicating what MM will have to have done.
If I remember correctly from my science classes, the vibrant, bright, rainbow colors are a creation of late 19th century German organic chemistry. The chemical and drug industries developed from there. It has given us a brighter, less expensive, wider range of products, more toxic, more cancer filled World.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Bitt Pins and Cross Pieces
Excuse what may be my mania speaking, but would a Kickstarter type project, to translate into current English and combine all of the known builder's contracts - up to Steele - or at least up to 1719 - into a single document - PDF would do - be a possible (practical) thing?
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in OcCre sanding block set
As an alternative, from a suggestion posted here some time ago:
A natural cork Yoga block (Amazon = 4"x6"x9" - $17/ but silly shipping cost)
Easier with a bandsaw, but a hand fretsaw can cut this into pieces that are any size or shape desired.
Rubber cement - coat both surfaces - will hold the sandpaper - avoid the 9x11 sheets with the no skid backing (10X / 3X?) - the coating reacts with rubber cement or its heptane solvent.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in OcCre sanding block set
As an alternative, from a suggestion posted here some time ago:
A natural cork Yoga block (Amazon = 4"x6"x9" - $17/ but silly shipping cost)
Easier with a bandsaw, but a hand fretsaw can cut this into pieces that are any size or shape desired.
Rubber cement - coat both surfaces - will hold the sandpaper - avoid the 9x11 sheets with the no skid backing (10X / 3X?) - the coating reacts with rubber cement or its heptane solvent.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Bitt Pins and Cross Pieces
In the condition of accepting that the cross piece had reversible attachment, two questions come to mind:
Which rigging lines are secured to pins on the cross piece?
What would they need the extra space on deck for, at a time when the lines that attach to the cross piece are not in use?
Was the iron metallurgy of the time up to the task of producing a 3 foot long bolt with a nut that would not rust in short order.
Hooks and eyes would be easier to replace, and easier to undo if the timber needed to be replaced.
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Jaager got a reaction from Frank Fox in Bitt Pins and Cross Pieces
In the condition of accepting that the cross piece had reversible attachment, two questions come to mind:
Which rigging lines are secured to pins on the cross piece?
What would they need the extra space on deck for, at a time when the lines that attach to the cross piece are not in use?
Was the iron metallurgy of the time up to the task of producing a 3 foot long bolt with a nut that would not rust in short order.
Hooks and eyes would be easier to replace, and easier to undo if the timber needed to be replaced.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Micromark cutoff saw?
If the inside of the tube was filled with a tight fitting dowel, the brass may not have the opportunity to bend.
Close examination of Jim's first photo in post #7 shows two or three points for this unit:
It does need to be fixed to a base.
The bottom of the vise clamp is higher than the right side of the cast metal base. If outboard support of the work piece is desired, the right side flat surface needs to be higher and the cast base surface is not dead flat, so doing the table extension is tricky.
The vise can rotate but the gauge is not exactly accurate.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Best Files
https://www.artcotools.com/grobet-habilis-files/
No perspective on the subject but the files in this link might serve.
But even with these, it is a bad idea to hold the handle end, file with the tip end, and apply downward force in the area in between - especially if the area under the downward force is not in contact with anything.
Hard steel, that really holds a sharp edge does not like to bend. It would rather break.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Best Files
https://www.artcotools.com/grobet-habilis-files/
No perspective on the subject but the files in this link might serve.
But even with these, it is a bad idea to hold the handle end, file with the tip end, and apply downward force in the area in between - especially if the area under the downward force is not in contact with anything.
Hard steel, that really holds a sharp edge does not like to bend. It would rather break.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in DMC Cotton
Kim,
Linen is confusing. The old unit was Lea but I recently Nm and NeC have become more common
Lea yds/lb / 300
Nm # 1000m/kg
NeC # 840yd/lb
The key is + the larger the value the thinner the yarn
The smallest I have found is 65 Lea - it is yarn - plant fibers twisted into a line - it breaks easily during twist up.
There is 100/3 Lea linen thread - it is 3 yarns of 100 Lea each twisted into a single thread - so it is sort of the diameter of 50 Lea single yarn -but already scale rope.
40/2 Lea linen is two 40 Lea yarns - so a no joy if the hope was that it could be unwound and yield 80 Lea - even if yarn that fine would withstand the process.
One thought = natural linen yarn is close the scale color of hemp that is not treated with tar - half bleached and bleached would both want to be dye treated but all are easily converted to standing rigging with a dose of dark walnut dye. A diluted ( a lot) dark walnut gets running rigging color.
It is my experience that supplies of natural, half bleached, and bleached are more likely to be available.
The Baltic linen yarn that I have sourced could stand better quality control. There are bits of poorly crushed and not combed out plant fiber in places that break under twisting stress.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in DMC Cotton
It was over a year ago, but I bought some from here:
https://www.snowgooselace.com/product-category/threads/dmc-cordonnet/
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Jaager got a reaction from Moab in Best Files
https://www.artcotools.com/grobet-habilis-files/
No perspective on the subject but the files in this link might serve.
But even with these, it is a bad idea to hold the handle end, file with the tip end, and apply downward force in the area in between - especially if the area under the downward force is not in contact with anything.
Hard steel, that really holds a sharp edge does not like to bend. It would rather break.
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Jaager got a reaction from Jim Rogers in To fix or not to fix? Bowed center keel
For the rest to be correct, the spine and the moulds should be as straight and square as can be done.
Can you determine the type of glue used to bond the moulds to the spine?
If it is PVA, a good soak in 91% isopropyl alcohol should free them.
If it is (the Fates forbid) CA, then use acetone.
Then on a base board, blocks can hold the spine in a straight line, and the moulds can be bonded square.
Am I seeing this correctly? Both edges of the moulds are sanded to a smooth curve?
I am thinking that the edge closest to the dead flat should be sharp and the outer edge - and all of the char should be down beveled.
The scrap 2x4 will make a low cost and effective filler between the moulds, if you have the tools to cut it into slices and scroll cut most of the outside and inside curves before fixing between the moulds.
All of the above is theory. I jumped straight from pre-carved kit hulls to scratch POF, so I have no actual experience with POB.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in To fix or not to fix? Bowed center keel
For the rest to be correct, the spine and the moulds should be as straight and square as can be done.
Can you determine the type of glue used to bond the moulds to the spine?
If it is PVA, a good soak in 91% isopropyl alcohol should free them.
If it is (the Fates forbid) CA, then use acetone.
Then on a base board, blocks can hold the spine in a straight line, and the moulds can be bonded square.
Am I seeing this correctly? Both edges of the moulds are sanded to a smooth curve?
I am thinking that the edge closest to the dead flat should be sharp and the outer edge - and all of the char should be down beveled.
The scrap 2x4 will make a low cost and effective filler between the moulds, if you have the tools to cut it into slices and scroll cut most of the outside and inside curves before fixing between the moulds.
All of the above is theory. I jumped straight from pre-carved kit hulls to scratch POF, so I have no actual experience with POB.
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Jaager got a reaction from Roger Pellett in To fix or not to fix? Bowed center keel
For the rest to be correct, the spine and the moulds should be as straight and square as can be done.
Can you determine the type of glue used to bond the moulds to the spine?
If it is PVA, a good soak in 91% isopropyl alcohol should free them.
If it is (the Fates forbid) CA, then use acetone.
Then on a base board, blocks can hold the spine in a straight line, and the moulds can be bonded square.
Am I seeing this correctly? Both edges of the moulds are sanded to a smooth curve?
I am thinking that the edge closest to the dead flat should be sharp and the outer edge - and all of the char should be down beveled.
The scrap 2x4 will make a low cost and effective filler between the moulds, if you have the tools to cut it into slices and scroll cut most of the outside and inside curves before fixing between the moulds.
All of the above is theory. I jumped straight from pre-carved kit hulls to scratch POF, so I have no actual experience with POB.
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Jaager got a reaction from Jorge Hedges in Unimat or Sherline... your feedback, please...
Joe,
To increase your possible expenditures
I have, but have not mounted a Penn State Universal Duplicator - for turning to a pattern - cannon and the like:
And for spars - I bought a steady rest on Ebay - with a theory that fixing a ball bearing race in it - with an ID close to that of the spar and an OD to fit in the steady rest - would slove any length problem.
Long ago, I bought an extra Al bed - to cut and and center mount the post for to make a proper mill of it. It is still whole.
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Jaager got a reaction from coalman in A question about varnish.
That is exactly what I recommend that you use. For the first coat, cut some it 50:50 with shellac thinner. Long ago and far away, that used to be methanol - wood alcohol - but if your drink it, your liver metabolizes it to formaldehyde - and you die. It all seems to be ethanol now - with a trace of something noxious and emetic - and is called denatured alcohol.
Drug store alcohol has too much water and water turns shellac white. That is why shellac is not used on tabletops - not everyone uses a coaster.
My local hardware has this brand and pints or quarts of denatured alcohol. I checked Home Depot and Slowes - they only list quarts of Zinsser. I go the hardware store route.
An old tee shirt square is as good as anything else for application. The first coat will just soak it and not leave all that much on the surface. The next full strength coat will cover the surface, but it is not thick enough material to need skilled brush application. a soft rag is enough. Alcohol repairs mistakes and a Scotch-Brite pad will smooth the surface, if needed.
You can use a single edge razor blade to to smooth the surface, with an alcohol cleaning, before you apply any shellac. But if you have open pores, the dust from using sand paper may fill them some. Scrapping does not leave any residue behind.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Micromark cutoff saw?
If the inside of the tube was filled with a tight fitting dowel, the brass may not have the opportunity to bend.
Close examination of Jim's first photo in post #7 shows two or three points for this unit:
It does need to be fixed to a base.
The bottom of the vise clamp is higher than the right side of the cast metal base. If outboard support of the work piece is desired, the right side flat surface needs to be higher and the cast base surface is not dead flat, so doing the table extension is tricky.
The vise can rotate but the gauge is not exactly accurate.
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Jaager reacted to Roger Pellett in Micromark cutoff saw?
I’d save the $50, approx towards eventual purchase of a Byrnes saw.
Roger
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Jaager got a reaction from Jim Rogers in Micromark cutoff saw?
If the inside of the tube was filled with a tight fitting dowel, the brass may not have the opportunity to bend.
Close examination of Jim's first photo in post #7 shows two or three points for this unit:
It does need to be fixed to a base.
The bottom of the vise clamp is higher than the right side of the cast metal base. If outboard support of the work piece is desired, the right side flat surface needs to be higher and the cast base surface is not dead flat, so doing the table extension is tricky.
The vise can rotate but the gauge is not exactly accurate.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Unimat or Sherline... your feedback, please...
Joe,
To increase your possible expenditures
I have, but have not mounted a Penn State Universal Duplicator - for turning to a pattern - cannon and the like:
And for spars - I bought a steady rest on Ebay - with a theory that fixing a ball bearing race in it - with an ID close to that of the spar and an OD to fit in the steady rest - would slove any length problem.
Long ago, I bought an extra Al bed - to cut and and center mount the post for to make a proper mill of it. It is still whole.
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Jaager got a reaction from Matrim in To add sails or not? What is your preference?
Allan,
Another member brought this up some time ago, apparently the advertised thread count in fabric is not all that straight forward in what it is describing. I find it confusing, but it may be that 500 or so may be the max available - for what we want it to mean. If I read it correctly a 1000 count is actually 500 threads, with each thread being two yarns twisted up. It is probably thicker. The variety of cotton used - some have longer fibers - and how much fractionation and purification of just the long fibers before twisting up may enter in to it.
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