Jaager

one more thing - avoid 3-wheel bandsaws - most can be very cranky.

My Rikon 14" uses a 142" circumference blade.  The spec literature allows 1/4" to 1"  for blade width.  I did not look too hard, but I did not find any 1/8" x 142" blades for sale.
It is strong enough to tension a 1" blade, but I gave up on expecting a wider blade to improve resaw tracking and use 1/2" blades.  I think the frame is steel.  It is heavy enough that I hired it assembled, delivered, and adjusted.
 
I never gave much thought to what 9" / 10" / 14" /18" really referred to.  The 9"/10" are smaller bench top.  The 14" is a large free standing.  The 18" is really large free standing.   It appears that 9" - 18" is the theoretical maximum height of cut - the upper housing to table distance.  I think that the upper blade guide reduces the actual distance possible.   I don't think that I would care to try to get 12" diameter log thru - too heavy, too unwieldy, way out of scale.  I do not build full size furniture or guitars so wide, thin boards are not something that I need.  2" wide is generally enough and 4" is my upper limit.  It is the power and precision in cutting and tracking that requires a 14" saw.  If you want frustration, try using a bandsaw that will not track for resawing.

My Rikon 14" uses a 142" circumference blade.  The spec literature allows 1/4" to 1"  for blade width.  I did not look too hard, but I did not find any 1/8" x 142" blades for sale.
It is strong enough to tension a 1" blade, but I gave up on expecting a wider blade to improve resaw tracking and use 1/2" blades.  I think the frame is steel.  It is heavy enough that I hired it assembled, delivered, and adjusted.
 
I never gave much thought to what 9" / 10" / 14" /18" really referred to.  The 9"/10" are smaller bench top.  The 14" is a large free standing.  The 18" is really large free standing.   It appears that 9" - 18" is the theoretical maximum height of cut - the upper housing to table distance.  I think that the upper blade guide reduces the actual distance possible.   I don't think that I would care to try to get 12" diameter log thru - too heavy, too unwieldy, way out of scale.  I do not build full size furniture or guitars so wide, thin boards are not something that I need.  2" wide is generally enough and 4" is my upper limit.  It is the power and precision in cutting and tracking that requires a 14" saw.  If you want frustration, try using a bandsaw that will not track for resawing.

My Rikon 14" uses a 142" circumference blade.  The spec literature allows 1/4" to 1"  for blade width.  I did not look too hard, but I did not find any 1/8" x 142" blades for sale.
It is strong enough to tension a 1" blade, but I gave up on expecting a wider blade to improve resaw tracking and use 1/2" blades.  I think the frame is steel.  It is heavy enough that I hired it assembled, delivered, and adjusted.
 
I never gave much thought to what 9" / 10" / 14" /18" really referred to.  The 9"/10" are smaller bench top.  The 14" is a large free standing.  The 18" is really large free standing.   It appears that 9" - 18" is the theoretical maximum height of cut - the upper housing to table distance.  I think that the upper blade guide reduces the actual distance possible.   I don't think that I would care to try to get 12" diameter log thru - too heavy, too unwieldy, way out of scale.  I do not build full size furniture or guitars so wide, thin boards are not something that I need.  2" wide is generally enough and 4" is my upper limit.  It is the power and precision in cutting and tracking that requires a 14" saw.  If you want frustration, try using a bandsaw that will not track for resawing.

I have both a 9" bench top and a 14" bandsaw.   The 9" is a model that MM sold for a short period of time. I am not sure if it was manufactured in China or Taiwan.   I use it exclusively for scroll cutting.  I use 1/8" blades and it is fortuitous that it uses a readily available size blade:  59.5" .   It also will mount a Carter Stabilizer, which greatly enhances scroll cutting control.   I would choose a more powerful motor, given the option.  I only scroll cut sorta, maybe close to the line.  I use a drum or disk sander to get to the finished shape.
 
The 14" has more bells and whistles.  High quality guides and a lever to release the tension.  It also has a 3 hp motor.  It is used for resawing, both planks and logs.  I would not even attempt to mount a 1/8" blade on it.  But that is below what is even listed as a choice and not available anyway. 
 
Factors that I consider important decision:  the more powerful motor,  a blade size that is easy to source,  a quality machine if 14"
 
A bandsaw is going to use up steel blades,  For resawing dense hardwood steel blades do not last all that long.  If you do a lot of cutting, the amount spent on blades will approach what you paid for the machine.  I find carbide blades to be more cost effective,  but bimetal blades are even more cost effective.  Buying an economy machine will probably leave  you with a machine that uses up blades more quickly and any supposed savings will be more than reversed in additional outlay on blades.
 
For the 9"  only steel is available and cutting frame timbers can use a couple per ship.  Bosch makes Vermont American and I ran into a batch that was so dull that I may as well have tried cutting using the back edge.  I now only trust Olson, they just cost more.
 
A bandsaw is by far the more efficient and safer way to resaw.  
I scroll cut 0.15" - 0.25" stock  for the most part and a bandsaw with a sharp blade will do the job fairly quickly and the work does not chatter.

I have both a 9" bench top and a 14" bandsaw.   The 9" is a model that MM sold for a short period of time. I am not sure if it was manufactured in China or Taiwan.   I use it exclusively for scroll cutting.  I use 1/8" blades and it is fortuitous that it uses a readily available size blade:  59.5" .   It also will mount a Carter Stabilizer, which greatly enhances scroll cutting control.   I would choose a more powerful motor, given the option.  I only scroll cut sorta, maybe close to the line.  I use a drum or disk sander to get to the finished shape.
 
The 14" has more bells and whistles.  High quality guides and a lever to release the tension.  It also has a 3 hp motor.  It is used for resawing, both planks and logs.  I would not even attempt to mount a 1/8" blade on it.  But that is below what is even listed as a choice and not available anyway. 
 
Factors that I consider important decision:  the more powerful motor,  a blade size that is easy to source,  a quality machine if 14"
 
A bandsaw is going to use up steel blades,  For resawing dense hardwood steel blades do not last all that long.  If you do a lot of cutting, the amount spent on blades will approach what you paid for the machine.  I find carbide blades to be more cost effective,  but bimetal blades are even more cost effective.  Buying an economy machine will probably leave  you with a machine that uses up blades more quickly and any supposed savings will be more than reversed in additional outlay on blades.
 
For the 9"  only steel is available and cutting frame timbers can use a couple per ship.  Bosch makes Vermont American and I ran into a batch that was so dull that I may as well have tried cutting using the back edge.  I now only trust Olson, they just cost more.
 
A bandsaw is by far the more efficient and safer way to resaw.  
I scroll cut 0.15" - 0.25" stock  for the most part and a bandsaw with a sharp blade will do the job fairly quickly and the work does not chatter.

I have both a 9" bench top and a 14" bandsaw.   The 9" is a model that MM sold for a short period of time. I am not sure if it was manufactured in China or Taiwan.   I use it exclusively for scroll cutting.  I use 1/8" blades and it is fortuitous that it uses a readily available size blade:  59.5" .   It also will mount a Carter Stabilizer, which greatly enhances scroll cutting control.   I would choose a more powerful motor, given the option.  I only scroll cut sorta, maybe close to the line.  I use a drum or disk sander to get to the finished shape.
 
The 14" has more bells and whistles.  High quality guides and a lever to release the tension.  It also has a 3 hp motor.  It is used for resawing, both planks and logs.  I would not even attempt to mount a 1/8" blade on it.  But that is below what is even listed as a choice and not available anyway. 
 
Factors that I consider important decision:  the more powerful motor,  a blade size that is easy to source,  a quality machine if 14"
 
A bandsaw is going to use up steel blades,  For resawing dense hardwood steel blades do not last all that long.  If you do a lot of cutting, the amount spent on blades will approach what you paid for the machine.  I find carbide blades to be more cost effective,  but bimetal blades are even more cost effective.  Buying an economy machine will probably leave  you with a machine that uses up blades more quickly and any supposed savings will be more than reversed in additional outlay on blades.
 
For the 9"  only steel is available and cutting frame timbers can use a couple per ship.  Bosch makes Vermont American and I ran into a batch that was so dull that I may as well have tried cutting using the back edge.  I now only trust Olson, they just cost more.
 
A bandsaw is by far the more efficient and safer way to resaw.  
I scroll cut 0.15" - 0.25" stock  for the most part and a bandsaw with a sharp blade will do the job fairly quickly and the work does not chatter.

If your emphasis is on accuracy, a band saw isn't going to be a machine where you'll readily find it. On a band saw, "accuracy" is dependent more upon the operator's skill than anything else. If "tight curves" are anticipated, certainly at modeling scales, a good quality scroll saw is the tool for the job. The "tightness of curves" or "minimum radius of cut" of a given band saw blade can cut is dependent on the width of the blade. As indicated on the chart below, a 1/8" wide band saw blade will only cut minimum radius of 3/16" and, while I've never seen a 1/8" band saw blade, I expect it's a rare bird indeed. I expect it would require a band saw designed to do such fine work. On a standard 14" band saw, I expect a 1/8" blade would be quite prone to breaking. A scroll saw, on the other hand, is capable of cutting radii equal to half the width of the blade itself. 
 
Blade Width (Inches) Minimum Radius (Inches) 1/8 3/16 3/16 5/16 1/4 5/8 3/8 1-1/2 1/2 2-1/2 5/8 4 3/4 5-1/2 1 7  
 
It's a matter of preference, price point, and space available, I suppose, but, in my opinion, small bench top band saws aren't really all that practical. A good scroll saw will serve much better for short radius cutting, although perhaps with slightly less throat depth, which generally isn't an issue with tight curves. A table saw will cut straight lines easier than any band saw, too. For larger work, however, a "standard"  14" or larger band saw is really required and is also capable of accurate re-sawing if properly set up. As to which one to buy, the price points are generally indicative of quality. As with many stationary power tools these days, the retail distributors all sell essentially the same models, all built at the Revolutionary People's Patriotic Machine Tool Collective somewhere in China, but there is a difference in fit and finish, depending upon the distributor's specifications. When it comes to things like band saws, the used market is also worth checking out. It's not unusual to see quality machines in decent condition selling used for a fraction of their original price. Neither is it unusual to find older machines which are of much higher quality than the models now selling new.

POB filling between moulds?  The material will be hidden.  It does not need to be pretty.  If there is a gap, use paper or cardboard to make up the short fall.  Liberal use of PVA will stiffen the paper. 
A right angle square, a piece of 1/2" plywood, and a sanding block will stand for a poor man's disk sander.
 

This particular tool has been said to be a Chinese copy of a domestic tool, that may have done in the original company.  It may look neat'o, cool'o  but a home made version will cost less and do what you want.   Tooth on the gluing surface is good, so 100/120/150 grit will cut fast and leave a surface for PVA to bond with.

Wondercutter is the product name.  It looks to me as though the target material is too limited in density and thickness for it to provide much use for scratch building.

POB filling between moulds?  The material will be hidden.  It does not need to be pretty.  If there is a gap, use paper or cardboard to make up the short fall.  Liberal use of PVA will stiffen the paper. 
A right angle square, a piece of 1/2" plywood, and a sanding block will stand for a poor man's disk sander.
 

This particular tool has been said to be a Chinese copy of a domestic tool, that may have done in the original company.  It may look neat'o, cool'o  but a home made version will cost less and do what you want.   Tooth on the gluing surface is good, so 100/120/150 grit will cut fast and leave a surface for PVA to bond with.

POB filling between moulds?  The material will be hidden.  It does not need to be pretty.  If there is a gap, use paper or cardboard to make up the short fall.  Liberal use of PVA will stiffen the paper. 
A right angle square, a piece of 1/2" plywood, and a sanding block will stand for a poor man's disk sander.
 

This particular tool has been said to be a Chinese copy of a domestic tool, that may have done in the original company.  It may look neat'o, cool'o  but a home made version will cost less and do what you want.   Tooth on the gluing surface is good, so 100/120/150 grit will cut fast and leave a surface for PVA to bond with.

Bottom line, there isn't anything that even comes close to the Byrnes saw and you do get what you pay for. With the "also-rans," you pay a little bit less and get a lot less for your money in quality and accuracy, not to mention resale value, if you ever want to sell it. They do cost money, but if you are cutting your own strip wood, it won't take too long to pay for itself, particularly the way pre-cut stock is starting to cost these days, when you can find it. Just throw your pocket change in a Mason jar and watch it add up. Save a buck here or there as you go along. You'll have enough saved up in short order. Particularly now, when we're all "locked down" and aren't spending any pocket money, anyhow.

Denatured alcohol is ethyl alcohol.  The solvent for PVA is isopropyl alcohol, but the properties of short chain alcohols are very similar.  So it could be PVA.  Hide glue is denatured by ethyl alcohol - especially if it is hot, so it could be a hide glue.

Denatured alcohol is ethyl alcohol.  The solvent for PVA is isopropyl alcohol, but the properties of short chain alcohols are very similar.  So it could be PVA.  Hide glue is denatured by ethyl alcohol - especially if it is hot, so it could be a hide glue.

I see one problem with using a standard dowel as starting stock:  the grain.  The face of the deadeye will be end grain.  The orientation needs to be 90 degrees to that of a dowel.  The length of stock to be turned would be 6-12 inches long. It would depend on the width of the starting lumber board.  The starting lathe stock would then be square in cross section. 
 
I wonder if a tube with an inside diameter that is that of the deadeye could be turned into a hole saw and deadeyes cut from a sheet of wood that is the thickness.  The tool used would then be a drill press.  A jig could be made to position  the 3 holes for the rope and these holes drilled in the sheet along with an orienting site for the hole saw,  so that the holes would be already placed before hole saw was used to remove the plug that is the deadeye.  Another jig could use the 3 holes to center the deadeye and the lathe used to shape the groove for the shroud. 

I see one problem with using a standard dowel as starting stock:  the grain.  The face of the deadeye will be end grain.  The orientation needs to be 90 degrees to that of a dowel.  The length of stock to be turned would be 6-12 inches long. It would depend on the width of the starting lumber board.  The starting lathe stock would then be square in cross section. 
 
I wonder if a tube with an inside diameter that is that of the deadeye could be turned into a hole saw and deadeyes cut from a sheet of wood that is the thickness.  The tool used would then be a drill press.  A jig could be made to position  the 3 holes for the rope and these holes drilled in the sheet along with an orienting site for the hole saw,  so that the holes would be already placed before hole saw was used to remove the plug that is the deadeye.  Another jig could use the 3 holes to center the deadeye and the lathe used to shape the groove for the shroud. 

A stain product is actually a semi transparent paint.  Cherry stain would be used on something like Yellow Poplar,  Using a dye on Cherry is gilding a Lilly.  Using a stain is turning a star into something mundane.
If you want a finish with a reverse gear, consider shellac.  Orange shellac will darken it now without obscuring it.  But, as Marks writes, Black Cherry darkens over time and in few years may be darker than you intended.  Super blonde will not darken it much.  There is a clearer version that is about twice as expensive.  The more layers, the more depth.  If it is too shiny a light buffing with very very fine steel wool with make it satin.   Just do not get it wet.  I am of a mind to use a final layer of Renaissance Wax Polish- but that is just a theory now.

I see one problem with using a standard dowel as starting stock:  the grain.  The face of the deadeye will be end grain.  The orientation needs to be 90 degrees to that of a dowel.  The length of stock to be turned would be 6-12 inches long. It would depend on the width of the starting lumber board.  The starting lathe stock would then be square in cross section. 
 
I wonder if a tube with an inside diameter that is that of the deadeye could be turned into a hole saw and deadeyes cut from a sheet of wood that is the thickness.  The tool used would then be a drill press.  A jig could be made to position  the 3 holes for the rope and these holes drilled in the sheet along with an orienting site for the hole saw,  so that the holes would be already placed before hole saw was used to remove the plug that is the deadeye.  Another jig could use the 3 holes to center the deadeye and the lathe used to shape the groove for the shroud. 

I see one problem with using a standard dowel as starting stock:  the grain.  The face of the deadeye will be end grain.  The orientation needs to be 90 degrees to that of a dowel.  The length of stock to be turned would be 6-12 inches long. It would depend on the width of the starting lumber board.  The starting lathe stock would then be square in cross section. 
 
I wonder if a tube with an inside diameter that is that of the deadeye could be turned into a hole saw and deadeyes cut from a sheet of wood that is the thickness.  The tool used would then be a drill press.  A jig could be made to position  the 3 holes for the rope and these holes drilled in the sheet along with an orienting site for the hole saw,  so that the holes would be already placed before hole saw was used to remove the plug that is the deadeye.  Another jig could use the 3 holes to center the deadeye and the lathe used to shape the groove for the shroud. 

The harpoons needed tending to.  Not needing the level and type of work usually done by a blacksmith a smaller anvil would do.  The coopering needed to assemble the barrels to hold the oil was also a function.

I build POF and am a bit biased on terminology.
As a side note,  what you ( and most everybody) call bulkheads are actually molds.  Subs have bulkheads,  some steel ships have bulkheads, Chinese wooden ships have bulkheads.  Western wooden ships did not have bulkheads.  They certainly are not frames.   What you (and everyone else) call the keel is actually a central support spine.
I have never built POB, so this is theory.  How I would try to rectify this:
1.  This curve is the natural shape that your piece of plywood seeks.  Anything that you do only to it  (bend it back with steam or heat) is likely to be a temporary fix. It will still "want" to bend.  You can clamp it to a baseboard and use the planking applied while clamped to hold the shape.  But when removed an twist force will be on the glue joints of the molds and inside planking - forever.  It may or may not hold. 
2.  If the molds have not been glued,  there is a stronger fix.  Scab a long streamer on each side of the central spine.
Remove the black area on each mold.  Get a couple of long sticks of straight hardwood ( 1/4" x 1/4"  or 1/4" x 1/2" or substantial size ).   Drill holes thru the sticks and central spine all along the length.  Use threaded bolts, washers and nuts to fix the sticks and central spine together.  Make sure this assembly is dead straight.  Remove the assembly.  Glue the molds to the central spine.  Slide the sticks thru the holes along the length and glue the sticks to the spine.  Check to make sure it is still dead straight.  The bolts can be removed and bamboo skewers glued thru the holes.  You just need a drill bit that is the diameter of the skewers.
 
3.  The holes in the molds remove some of the bonding surface between them and the spine.  Short pieces of SQUARE wood can be used to reinforce the bond.  Eight pieces per molds.  Just do not block the path of the straightener sticks.
 
4.  Rather than Balsa, consider using Pine to fill the outer planking edge between the molds.   Assuming that you do not have power tools,  a hand fret saw. planes, knives and sanding block will do.  Select Pine in 1" thickness is easily found. There may also be thinner stock of solid Pine.   Cut out the shapes, glue up the layers to fit between the molds, and do as much shaping as you can before fixing them between the molds.  You are unlikely to be lucky enough that a sum one 1" layers will be a tight fit between the molds.  The outer surface does not need to be continuous.  Cardboard or what ever is to hand can be fitted between a layer to make up the difference.  It does not need to reach the outer shaped surface.  You just want the unit to be a push fit between the molds.

A stain product is actually a semi transparent paint.  Cherry stain would be used on something like Yellow Poplar,  Using a dye on Cherry is gilding a Lilly.  Using a stain is turning a star into something mundane.
If you want a finish with a reverse gear, consider shellac.  Orange shellac will darken it now without obscuring it.  But, as Marks writes, Black Cherry darkens over time and in few years may be darker than you intended.  Super blonde will not darken it much.  There is a clearer version that is about twice as expensive.  The more layers, the more depth.  If it is too shiny a light buffing with very very fine steel wool with make it satin.   Just do not get it wet.  I am of a mind to use a final layer of Renaissance Wax Polish- but that is just a theory now.

A stain product is actually a semi transparent paint.  Cherry stain would be used on something like Yellow Poplar,  Using a dye on Cherry is gilding a Lilly.  Using a stain is turning a star into something mundane.
If you want a finish with a reverse gear, consider shellac.  Orange shellac will darken it now without obscuring it.  But, as Marks writes, Black Cherry darkens over time and in few years may be darker than you intended.  Super blonde will not darken it much.  There is a clearer version that is about twice as expensive.  The more layers, the more depth.  If it is too shiny a light buffing with very very fine steel wool with make it satin.   Just do not get it wet.  I am of a mind to use a final layer of Renaissance Wax Polish- but that is just a theory now.

Being unforgivably pedantic,
if that model was a kit, there is slight probability that it was POF.  Plank On Frame is a specific style of construction that attempts to mimic the way an actual hull was constructed.  It varies from stylized to being as exact as possible, depending on who the builder is.  This method is pretty much limited to scratch building.  It was more likely POB - Plank On Bulkhead.  There are some unscrupulous kit makers, who advertise POB as being POF.  If they cheat on this, it is likely that anything they offer would be suspect.  Doing POF correctly is both labor intensive and uses a lot of wood.  I suspect that an actual POF kit would be sorta expensive, even for a brig.
 
My understanding is that the first POB kits were from Italy and the component that they termed "bulkhead" is actually a mold and not a part of an actual western built wooden vessel hull.  It has continued on as the description used to define the method.  Actual bulkheads were a feature of Chinese built wooden hulls, and not western.  In Chinese ships, real bulkheads would not have been close enough together to adequately determine the shape of a hull without some additions between them.  As it is, most POB molds are not spaced at close enough intervals to support a satisfactory shape for a hull.  The common fix is a double layer of planking.
 
Now, about your Katy build,
 
congratulations on an excellent choice for a first build - both as an attractive subject - and as something not likely to overwhelm
 
Shellac is an excellent choice as a primer for most finish material.  Diluted 1:1 (50%) for the first coat. 100% for the second.
 
Before you do that, there are a couple of riffs you might consider.
After you add the keel, stem and sternpost, you could plank the hull with thin veneer.
You do not list your geographical location,  but for the US  the effective choices would be Hard Maple,  Black Cherry,  Birch,  Beech.  (Straight grain, not figured, tight, closed grain, no evident pores)
A thin veneer requires no special tools other than a steel straight edge and a sharp #11 knife blade.  Disposable blades work,  but if you continue with this,  violin makers knives and a strop kit
 
Bay pilot schooners did not have much of a bulwark - the Pine/Basswood of the hull above the waterway could be shaved off and a 1/8" piece of hardwood (or glued up layers of the hull planking veneer, used to add an actual scale bulwark.
 
You removed wood that substitutes for the deck beams, so you will need a clamp strake and actual deck beams. (Doing the camber and placement of beams for hatches and masts gets you well into the sort of work that scratch building involves - just FYI)   Even if you had not hollowed the hull -  Rather than using a sheet of scored decking (Basswood) that I am guessing comes with the kit, an actual deck can be laid.  The same veneer as above (except Black Cherry) will make for an attractive deck.   I suspect that the actual decking was hard Pine  it is not near white, so Maple, Birch is close in color. 
Rather than bopping a viewer between the eyes with stark contrast wide black caulking seams, mixing a dose of walnut dye to the Titebond that is between the deck planks would be closer to scale.