Jaager

Cross cutting:    deck planking   and other parts where there is a max length.
 
Grattings:   the slots for the F&A boards.  If you freehand the first one to its proper width and glue a guide that is the thickness of the blade to the deck of the slide that is one slot width out, each of the following slots will be that distance apart.  The slot is likely to be wider than a the blade, the play of the known slot and the guide will allow for as many passes per slot as needed.  If you gang more than one blade until the sum is the slot width, then the guide would be the slot width instead of the blade width since no play is wanted.
 
A large block can be shaped to the pattern of the gun trucks.   If the blade can rise high enough, the individual truck sides can be sliced off as identical clones.
Just make sure that the end grain is at the front and back edges of the trucks.  The width of the original plank will determine how many sides per block.   Using the length of the plank allows for more but the grain orientation would be just plain wrong.   
 

I am content with the fixed 90 degrees.  The complexity and error potential that comes with the tilt function does not balance with very slight need for an angled cut with what I do. 
 
No.  It has been passing my notice.   The tooth count on that blade has me cringing at the thought of using it to cut a shallow slot.   I have a bunch of fine tooth - zero set blades that I bought over the years that can be stacked to do the same.  I bought them before I knew that they are not the proper blades for ripping.   Thurston and Martindale  - back from when Martindale kept them in inventory.  Jim was a stock recovery savior with the bushings that get 1" ID blades adapted to fit his 1/2" arbor.
I am thinking that the MM system would skew the blade at a fixed off center angle.  A wobble means to me that the blade would move freely along the arbor as it rotated.  That might be a very bad idea to do on purpose.   A loose nut on the arbor would produce that effect.

I am content with the fixed 90 degrees.  The complexity and error potential that comes with the tilt function does not balance with very slight need for an angled cut with what I do. 
 
No.  It has been passing my notice.   The tooth count on that blade has me cringing at the thought of using it to cut a shallow slot.   I have a bunch of fine tooth - zero set blades that I bought over the years that can be stacked to do the same.  I bought them before I knew that they are not the proper blades for ripping.   Thurston and Martindale  - back from when Martindale kept them in inventory.  Jim was a stock recovery savior with the bushings that get 1" ID blades adapted to fit his 1/2" arbor.
I am thinking that the MM system would skew the blade at a fixed off center angle.  A wobble means to me that the blade would move freely along the arbor as it rotated.  That might be a very bad idea to do on purpose.   A loose nut on the arbor would produce that effect.

I am content with the fixed 90 degrees.  The complexity and error potential that comes with the tilt function does not balance with very slight need for an angled cut with what I do. 
 
No.  It has been passing my notice.   The tooth count on that blade has me cringing at the thought of using it to cut a shallow slot.   I have a bunch of fine tooth - zero set blades that I bought over the years that can be stacked to do the same.  I bought them before I knew that they are not the proper blades for ripping.   Thurston and Martindale  - back from when Martindale kept them in inventory.  Jim was a stock recovery savior with the bushings that get 1" ID blades adapted to fit his 1/2" arbor.
I am thinking that the MM system would skew the blade at a fixed off center angle.  A wobble means to me that the blade would move freely along the arbor as it rotated.  That might be a very bad idea to do on purpose.   A loose nut on the arbor would produce that effect.

Cross cutting:    deck planking   and other parts where there is a max length.
 
Grattings:   the slots for the F&A boards.  If you freehand the first one to its proper width and glue a guide that is the thickness of the blade to the deck of the slide that is one slot width out, each of the following slots will be that distance apart.  The slot is likely to be wider than a the blade, the play of the known slot and the guide will allow for as many passes per slot as needed.  If you gang more than one blade until the sum is the slot width, then the guide would be the slot width instead of the blade width since no play is wanted.
 
A large block can be shaped to the pattern of the gun trucks.   If the blade can rise high enough, the individual truck sides can be sliced off as identical clones.
Just make sure that the end grain is at the front and back edges of the trucks.  The width of the original plank will determine how many sides per block.   Using the length of the plank allows for more but the grain orientation would be just plain wrong.   
 

Cross cutting:    deck planking   and other parts where there is a max length.
 
Grattings:   the slots for the F&A boards.  If you freehand the first one to its proper width and glue a guide that is the thickness of the blade to the deck of the slide that is one slot width out, each of the following slots will be that distance apart.  The slot is likely to be wider than a the blade, the play of the known slot and the guide will allow for as many passes per slot as needed.  If you gang more than one blade until the sum is the slot width, then the guide would be the slot width instead of the blade width since no play is wanted.
 
A large block can be shaped to the pattern of the gun trucks.   If the blade can rise high enough, the individual truck sides can be sliced off as identical clones.
Just make sure that the end grain is at the front and back edges of the trucks.  The width of the original plank will determine how many sides per block.   Using the length of the plank allows for more but the grain orientation would be just plain wrong.   
 

My database reports that:
A background piece of paper or card with the shrouds and foot ropes lined out might help keep the progression on track.
The angle (slope) of each shroud and the proper tension - remember that the deadeye and their links follow the slope of their shroud -
and the horizontal of the foot ropes are neigh on to impossible to get correct anywhere but in situ.

I would rub my thumb over the burn.  If charcoal powder sheds from doing this, it means that that surface will not hold a glue bond.  If it is just a black color - removing it is just for esthetics.

I would rub my thumb over the burn.  If charcoal powder sheds from doing this, it means that that surface will not hold a glue bond.  If it is just a black color - removing it is just for esthetics.

I would rub my thumb over the burn.  If charcoal powder sheds from doing this, it means that that surface will not hold a glue bond.  If it is just a black color - removing it is just for esthetics.

My database reports that:
A background piece of paper or card with the shrouds and foot ropes lined out might help keep the progression on track.
The angle (slope) of each shroud and the proper tension - remember that the deadeye and their links follow the slope of their shroud -
and the horizontal of the foot ropes are neigh on to impossible to get correct anywhere but in situ.

My database reports that:
A background piece of paper or card with the shrouds and foot ropes lined out might help keep the progression on track.
The angle (slope) of each shroud and the proper tension - remember that the deadeye and their links follow the slope of their shroud -
and the horizontal of the foot ropes are neigh on to impossible to get correct anywhere but in situ.

My database reports that:
A background piece of paper or card with the shrouds and foot ropes lined out might help keep the progression on track.
The angle (slope) of each shroud and the proper tension - remember that the deadeye and their links follow the slope of their shroud -
and the horizontal of the foot ropes are neigh on to impossible to get correct anywhere but in situ.

My database reports that:
A background piece of paper or card with the shrouds and foot ropes lined out might help keep the progression on track.
The angle (slope) of each shroud and the proper tension - remember that the deadeye and their links follow the slope of their shroud -
and the horizontal of the foot ropes are neigh on to impossible to get correct anywhere but in situ.

For ripping - a thin blade with lots of teeth seems like a good idea, but it is not.
The thicker the stock, the fewer the  teeth and deeper the gullet to carry away the kerf cut.
When the gullet is full, the cutting edge in front of it cannot cut.  The stress and friction heat has the blade seeking the path of least resistance.  If the blade is thin enough it will twist or flex or whatever the correct verb is to describe it getting out of plane.

Penn State sells a universal duplicator that might do as a one off for  the limited number of round deck fixture items on a wooden ship.
https://www.pennstateind.com/store/universal-duplicator.html
 
As for a smaller lathe,  it might be less costly to wait until you reach a point in a build where a lathe's function can't be replicated using a clamped drill or something. 
Most modelers who strictly stick to building wooden vessels will never really need a lathe - or a righteous  small machinists mill.  Both are necessary for working metals to make other machines,  but are self-indulgent gingerbread in even a scratch builder working wood's tool kit if running economically lean.

Is true
"the saw blade"?   the width of possible blades ranges from the ones with carbide teeth to slitting/slotting blades that are too thin for doing more than that - i.e. even though the narrow width and resulting reduced loss to kerf on a rip cut makes them tempting for  use on thicker stock, they do not have the necessary properties to do a proper job of it.
I do wish that Jim had offered a second style of sliding table with a shorter right side so that the fence could be slud to the side instead of having to remove it.
A homemade version is easy enough but the Al and bells and whistles of the Jim version is cool.
 
The Vernier dial defeats me a bit.  I am thinking about seeing if I can adapt a:
 
iGaging Digital Readout DRO 6" Travel X-Large LCD Display EZ-VIEW PLUS
 
but then - the NRG Thin Strip Saw Jig may make it superfluous.

I was in the shop Friday afternoon and I wanted to build some sort of storage for my dremel drill press bits, cutters, wrenches, etc.
 
i seen somewhere that a person built a cabinet with drawers for his lathe.  I liked the idea put my twist on it and here’s what I came up with.  Yeah the drawer pull is over kill but it’s what I had on hand in the shop.  
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I find that the range of possibilities for ship types to be so large that being overwhelmed into something like catatonia to be the result.  My solution is to pick an era - or ship type  - something to reduce the  seduction of another "interesting type".-  Finding a story to tell can also help.   If you can do this, then you can choose a quality kit of a vessel with less complication and less breadth of complexity from within these self imposed limits.  Also, having a target challenge can help get over and thru the inevitable time when your muse goes on vacation or you need a break. 

For ripping - a thin blade with lots of teeth seems like a good idea, but it is not.
The thicker the stock, the fewer the  teeth and deeper the gullet to carry away the kerf cut.
When the gullet is full, the cutting edge in front of it cannot cut.  The stress and friction heat has the blade seeking the path of least resistance.  If the blade is thin enough it will twist or flex or whatever the correct verb is to describe it getting out of plane.

Collect as much data as can be had.
If you have enough for a build, decide some basic factors -  Waterline or complete hull.  Scale.  How much detail.  Materials.
There are books covering waterline steel.
Photo etch (PE) can be a big help in fabricating details - in replicate - that previous methods could only wish for.
 
I have no experimental data, but what I have observed with the stability of plastic suggests that parts made using 3D printer plastic will prove to be evanescent.  
The properties that allow it to be so easily manipulated will be probably be the same properties that make it vulnerable to UV and 02 for continuing polymerization and embrittlement  - shedding outer layers until it is a pile of powder. 
 
A hull made using clear construction Pine would be about as low cost as it gets.

I guess that both have fairly straight forward hulls - easy to carve from mirrored stacks of WL layers - scratch allows for any scale - 
 
Even getting adequate plans could be a challenge
 
one lead:
 
 
Anvers. Red Star Line Museum
The collections of the new museum come partly from loans from the Antwerp city museums (Letterenhuis, Plantin-Moretus, MAS, etc.). But the bulk of the objects and documents, managed today by the non-profit organization Friends of the Red Star Line, were originally collected by Robert Vervoort, a retired dockworker and passionate collector of everything associated with the Red Star Line. history of the disappeared shipping company (advertising and administrative prints, ship plans, etc. souvenirs and objects used on board liners, etc.). Monumental triptych by the painter Laermans, The Emigrants (1896) is on loan from the Royal Museum of Fine Arts in Antwerp. Let us also mention a series of works loaned by the Eugeen Van Mieghem Museum, a small private institution dedicated to the memory of this talented Antwerp painter, "people's artist" whose realistic drawings, engravings and paintings immortalize the daily life of port workers and emigrants in his native district, het Eilandje. But, beyond the works of art, documents and period objects, it is the personal testimonies of Red Star Line passengers which constitute the common thread of the museum presentation. As the major construction site of the museum progressed in recent years, the team of researchers from the new institution led an intense campaign to collect testimonies and personal objects from former passengers of the Red Star Line and their descendants, in Europe. like in North America. This campaign made it possible to expand the museum’s initial collection.
 
If the USN had her, perhaps the National Archives has something?
 
file:///C:/Users/Jaager/Downloads/chungosgr-1.0216303.pdf
 
 
 
https://test.marinersmuseum.org/search?query=DE GRASSE (STEAMSHIP%3A 1924)
 
 
 
 

For ripping - a thin blade with lots of teeth seems like a good idea, but it is not.
The thicker the stock, the fewer the  teeth and deeper the gullet to carry away the kerf cut.
When the gullet is full, the cutting edge in front of it cannot cut.  The stress and friction heat has the blade seeking the path of least resistance.  If the blade is thin enough it will twist or flex or whatever the correct verb is to describe it getting out of plane.

For ripping - a thin blade with lots of teeth seems like a good idea, but it is not.
The thicker the stock, the fewer the  teeth and deeper the gullet to carry away the kerf cut.
When the gullet is full, the cutting edge in front of it cannot cut.  The stress and friction heat has the blade seeking the path of least resistance.  If the blade is thin enough it will twist or flex or whatever the correct verb is to describe it getting out of plane.

Collect as much data as can be had.
If you have enough for a build, decide some basic factors -  Waterline or complete hull.  Scale.  How much detail.  Materials.
There are books covering waterline steel.
Photo etch (PE) can be a big help in fabricating details - in replicate - that previous methods could only wish for.
 
I have no experimental data, but what I have observed with the stability of plastic suggests that parts made using 3D printer plastic will prove to be evanescent.  
The properties that allow it to be so easily manipulated will be probably be the same properties that make it vulnerable to UV and 02 for continuing polymerization and embrittlement  - shedding outer layers until it is a pile of powder. 
 
A hull made using clear construction Pine would be about as low cost as it gets.