Jaager

Re. the picture in post #43:
I don't see it as Hahn style so much as I see it as derisive parody of POF. 
It could be trying to be a kitsch decorator simulacrum of a ship model or a cynical attempt to destroy the reputation of all POF.
Whatever it is, that is not POF.
 

Re. the picture in post #43:
I don't see it as Hahn style so much as I see it as derisive parody of POF. 
It could be trying to be a kitsch decorator simulacrum of a ship model or a cynical attempt to destroy the reputation of all POF.
Whatever it is, that is not POF.
 

Were this Japan,  Jim would qualify as a national treasure. His skill, craftsmanship, precision, and material selection has no competition.  His determination to do it right  harkens back  to a lost era and was rare even then. 
Would that he had trained up a group of apprentices.  His passing will leave an immense hole.

Were this Japan,  Jim would qualify as a national treasure. His skill, craftsmanship, precision, and material selection has no competition.  His determination to do it right  harkens back  to a lost era and was rare even then. 
Would that he had trained up a group of apprentices.  His passing will leave an immense hole.

Re. the picture in post #43:
I don't see it as Hahn style so much as I see it as derisive parody of POF. 
It could be trying to be a kitsch decorator simulacrum of a ship model or a cynical attempt to destroy the reputation of all POF.
Whatever it is, that is not POF.
 

Were this Japan,  Jim would qualify as a national treasure. His skill, craftsmanship, precision, and material selection has no competition.  His determination to do it right  harkens back  to a lost era and was rare even then. 
Would that he had trained up a group of apprentices.  His passing will leave an immense hole.

Were this Japan,  Jim would qualify as a national treasure. His skill, craftsmanship, precision, and material selection has no competition.  His determination to do it right  harkens back  to a lost era and was rare even then. 
Would that he had trained up a group of apprentices.  His passing will leave an immense hole.

There is a problem - an unavoidable barrier - with any kit supplied sails.  The numbers are huge against any materiel that a kit manufacturer can afford to supply being anywhere close to the canvas being in scale. 
If this is important to you,  but you wish to display sails - a fabric like paper - SilkSpan for example - will get you much closer to realistic.  This is a scratch project - but one requiring almost no additional expenditure on tools.  Being paper,  you can practice and discard as much as is needed.  Instructions abound here and in a SeaWatch publication.
This means that the presence or absence of sails should be a non-factor in your choice of kit.
A cost is that each sail comes with its own additional set of lines to mount and run.  It makes rigging significantly more in factors of time and complexity.
 
Galleons - race galleons - were a lot more popular in the early days of ship modeling.  The second hand books with these 1920's 30's 40's adventures could be fun to explore for things to do with the kit. 
and this book:    THE GALLEON   PETER KIRSCH  US NAVAL INSTITUTE PRESS  ANNAPOLIS, MD  1990
is excellent - if you can find it.

Looking for dry pigment - Amazon has Mica dry pigments advertised as being designed for use in epoxy.

Is the clear epoxy in an organic solvent?
If so, it may be possible that you could buy a small tube of artist's oil based pigment - a quality fine pigment brand - of the color or colors you favor - and mix your own compatible top coat(s).
Epoxy is two part?  Not sure which of the two would get the pigment - I would guess the thinnest one?

I did and still have hold over using a very similar method.  A problem with it is gravity.  The sticks bend.
Flat is better.
For my framing stock I use this:

They used to be 24" long - my preferred stock length - easier to handle than the 8' length it is in the lumber yard.
~ $2 each.
I use old school chalk to mark each stick with its thickness.  Blue chalk is persistent.
 
These can be handy for 12" or less - the long dividers are fixed, but the cross dividers are temporary.

I may totally misunderstand the situation, but my understanding is that a 3 jaw chuck is for round stock and as such a self centering action makes sense.
A 4 jaw chuck is for irregular stock.  It would be pure luck for 4 sided stock to be absolutely square.  It is logical for each of the jaws to be independent.
Round is almost always symmetrical.  It takes serious effort to make it anything else.  Four or more sided stock is almost always the opposite as far as having  symmetry.

There is a problem - an unavoidable barrier - with any kit supplied sails.  The numbers are huge against any materiel that a kit manufacturer can afford to supply being anywhere close to the canvas being in scale. 
If this is important to you,  but you wish to display sails - a fabric like paper - SilkSpan for example - will get you much closer to realistic.  This is a scratch project - but one requiring almost no additional expenditure on tools.  Being paper,  you can practice and discard as much as is needed.  Instructions abound here and in a SeaWatch publication.
This means that the presence or absence of sails should be a non-factor in your choice of kit.
A cost is that each sail comes with its own additional set of lines to mount and run.  It makes rigging significantly more in factors of time and complexity.
 
Galleons - race galleons - were a lot more popular in the early days of ship modeling.  The second hand books with these 1920's 30's 40's adventures could be fun to explore for things to do with the kit. 
and this book:    THE GALLEON   PETER KIRSCH  US NAVAL INSTITUTE PRESS  ANNAPOLIS, MD  1990
is excellent - if you can find it.

My first given was incorrect.  There are red lines.  I missed that.
Struck out!
Drift:
I can't think of any use that I would have for the shear line?
 
 

Given that there is not all of the interior drawn in red,  that the line shows no reference to the outside rails and mouldings, that it is all on the same level, and that it is at the correct distance above the gunports -  I believe  that it is the underside of the deck at the side.
 

There is a problem - an unavoidable barrier - with any kit supplied sails.  The numbers are huge against any materiel that a kit manufacturer can afford to supply being anywhere close to the canvas being in scale. 
If this is important to you,  but you wish to display sails - a fabric like paper - SilkSpan for example - will get you much closer to realistic.  This is a scratch project - but one requiring almost no additional expenditure on tools.  Being paper,  you can practice and discard as much as is needed.  Instructions abound here and in a SeaWatch publication.
This means that the presence or absence of sails should be a non-factor in your choice of kit.
A cost is that each sail comes with its own additional set of lines to mount and run.  It makes rigging significantly more in factors of time and complexity.
 
Galleons - race galleons - were a lot more popular in the early days of ship modeling.  The second hand books with these 1920's 30's 40's adventures could be fun to explore for things to do with the kit. 
and this book:    THE GALLEON   PETER KIRSCH  US NAVAL INSTITUTE PRESS  ANNAPOLIS, MD  1990
is excellent - if you can find it.

Given that there is not all of the interior drawn in red,  that the line shows no reference to the outside rails and mouldings, that it is all on the same level, and that it is at the correct distance above the gunports -  I believe  that it is the underside of the deck at the side.
 

Given that there is not all of the interior drawn in red,  that the line shows no reference to the outside rails and mouldings, that it is all on the same level, and that it is at the correct distance above the gunports -  I believe  that it is the underside of the deck at the side.
 

Karl,
I agree about the size of the Proxxon.  I agree with your evaluation of the machine. 
I am always on the watch for something better and am fortunate to be able to afford the search.
Your presentation did refocus my attention.  I did another search for an a grinder with an angle between 0 degrees and 90 degrees.  If only Foredom Flex had that attachment!
All I found was a series of air driven tools for automotive use.  There was one on sale at Harbor Freight - electric - acute angle - not enough acute and pretty fat.  I thought about it, but after sleeping on it - I have decided to give it a pass.  Remembering fighting with the chuck and the length of the 1",2",3" Chinese disks on the Kaleas angle grinder ( MM is their agent in the US - rebranded ) I reevaluated my preconception about how large the cutting surface on the disk should be.   I think I can use the larger disk that comes with it and use fine touch and finesse to get almost everywhere inside the hull.  The machine does a trick (works well) on shaping  the outside - quickly.   I have an advantage over your method as far as shaping without damaging the edges of the frames.  I have Pine fillers where the spaces are.  They have an easily reversible bond - to punch them out when the hull is final.  (I am still working on finding the perfect glue to temporarily hold them and let go and disappear.)   Centurion is on the stocks because the disappear part using Scotch double sided tape did not work out all that well. I got frustrated with that fiddly bit.  It is tight in there between the frames!
 
I wonder if years down the road, you will wish you had chosen the complete hull  1:60 option  - my HMS Centurion 60 1732  is 1:60 and I like the size. 50% of the volume of the 1:48.

I did and still have hold over using a very similar method.  A problem with it is gravity.  The sticks bend.
Flat is better.
For my framing stock I use this:

They used to be 24" long - my preferred stock length - easier to handle than the 8' length it is in the lumber yard.
~ $2 each.
I use old school chalk to mark each stick with its thickness.  Blue chalk is persistent.
 
These can be handy for 12" or less - the long dividers are fixed, but the cross dividers are temporary.

Karl,
I agree about the size of the Proxxon.  I agree with your evaluation of the machine. 
I am always on the watch for something better and am fortunate to be able to afford the search.
Your presentation did refocus my attention.  I did another search for an a grinder with an angle between 0 degrees and 90 degrees.  If only Foredom Flex had that attachment!
All I found was a series of air driven tools for automotive use.  There was one on sale at Harbor Freight - electric - acute angle - not enough acute and pretty fat.  I thought about it, but after sleeping on it - I have decided to give it a pass.  Remembering fighting with the chuck and the length of the 1",2",3" Chinese disks on the Kaleas angle grinder ( MM is their agent in the US - rebranded ) I reevaluated my preconception about how large the cutting surface on the disk should be.   I think I can use the larger disk that comes with it and use fine touch and finesse to get almost everywhere inside the hull.  The machine does a trick (works well) on shaping  the outside - quickly.   I have an advantage over your method as far as shaping without damaging the edges of the frames.  I have Pine fillers where the spaces are.  They have an easily reversible bond - to punch them out when the hull is final.  (I am still working on finding the perfect glue to temporarily hold them and let go and disappear.)   Centurion is on the stocks because the disappear part using Scotch double sided tape did not work out all that well. I got frustrated with that fiddly bit.  It is tight in there between the frames!
 
I wonder if years down the road, you will wish you had chosen the complete hull  1:60 option  - my HMS Centurion 60 1732  is 1:60 and I like the size. 50% of the volume of the 1:48.

Karl,
I agree about the size of the Proxxon.  I agree with your evaluation of the machine. 
I am always on the watch for something better and am fortunate to be able to afford the search.
Your presentation did refocus my attention.  I did another search for an a grinder with an angle between 0 degrees and 90 degrees.  If only Foredom Flex had that attachment!
All I found was a series of air driven tools for automotive use.  There was one on sale at Harbor Freight - electric - acute angle - not enough acute and pretty fat.  I thought about it, but after sleeping on it - I have decided to give it a pass.  Remembering fighting with the chuck and the length of the 1",2",3" Chinese disks on the Kaleas angle grinder ( MM is their agent in the US - rebranded ) I reevaluated my preconception about how large the cutting surface on the disk should be.   I think I can use the larger disk that comes with it and use fine touch and finesse to get almost everywhere inside the hull.  The machine does a trick (works well) on shaping  the outside - quickly.   I have an advantage over your method as far as shaping without damaging the edges of the frames.  I have Pine fillers where the spaces are.  They have an easily reversible bond - to punch them out when the hull is final.  (I am still working on finding the perfect glue to temporarily hold them and let go and disappear.)   Centurion is on the stocks because the disappear part using Scotch double sided tape did not work out all that well. I got frustrated with that fiddly bit.  It is tight in there between the frames!
 
I wonder if years down the road, you will wish you had chosen the complete hull  1:60 option  - my HMS Centurion 60 1732  is 1:60 and I like the size. 50% of the volume of the 1:48.

Karl,
I agree about the size of the Proxxon.  I agree with your evaluation of the machine. 
I am always on the watch for something better and am fortunate to be able to afford the search.
Your presentation did refocus my attention.  I did another search for an a grinder with an angle between 0 degrees and 90 degrees.  If only Foredom Flex had that attachment!
All I found was a series of air driven tools for automotive use.  There was one on sale at Harbor Freight - electric - acute angle - not enough acute and pretty fat.  I thought about it, but after sleeping on it - I have decided to give it a pass.  Remembering fighting with the chuck and the length of the 1",2",3" Chinese disks on the Kaleas angle grinder ( MM is their agent in the US - rebranded ) I reevaluated my preconception about how large the cutting surface on the disk should be.   I think I can use the larger disk that comes with it and use fine touch and finesse to get almost everywhere inside the hull.  The machine does a trick (works well) on shaping  the outside - quickly.   I have an advantage over your method as far as shaping without damaging the edges of the frames.  I have Pine fillers where the spaces are.  They have an easily reversible bond - to punch them out when the hull is final.  (I am still working on finding the perfect glue to temporarily hold them and let go and disappear.)   Centurion is on the stocks because the disappear part using Scotch double sided tape did not work out all that well. I got frustrated with that fiddly bit.  It is tight in there between the frames!
 
I wonder if years down the road, you will wish you had chosen the complete hull  1:60 option  - my HMS Centurion 60 1732  is 1:60 and I like the size. 50% of the volume of the 1:48.

I did and still have hold over using a very similar method.  A problem with it is gravity.  The sticks bend.
Flat is better.
For my framing stock I use this:

They used to be 24" long - my preferred stock length - easier to handle than the 8' length it is in the lumber yard.
~ $2 each.
I use old school chalk to mark each stick with its thickness.  Blue chalk is persistent.
 
These can be handy for 12" or less - the long dividers are fixed, but the cross dividers are temporary.

Just some random comments:
 
If you think the 64 gun hull is large, you should try the 118 gun Commerce de Marseille?  Even at 1:60 it is a contest for who will get the work room!
 
You are very fortunate in being able to source Sorbus torminalis.  The wood looks excellent,
 
I have tried many tools in a search for a way to shape the inside of the framing. 
The angle grinder that you show is one that works fairly well for me.
I wish I could find a slim electric grinder that is 45/120 degrees  as it would make getting inside easier - but I only find compressed air tools with that feature..
 
The one that I find to be more useful is this one:
https://www.kaleas.de/en/modeling-tinker/minitool/140/minitool-right-angle-grinder
The disk that  comes with it is a bit wide.  There is a chuck accessory that allows for disks with smaller diameters.  The problem is that it extends the cutting surface out from the motor.  The motor itself is about the size of my hand, so if I can get my hand inside, I can get the grinder inside.
 
I do not know the metric equivalents  but I am quite pleased to have a drum sander to shape the frames.
A quality 1/3 HP TEFC motor with a 1/2 inch shaft and ~1700 rpm is key .  To mount it so that the shaft is vertical, all that is needed is a firm base with big rubber sound/vibration absorbing feet and a sort of Erector Set type steel angle pieces with holes for threaded bolts.  
 
A box or table is not needed.  Almost nothing on a frame is 90 degrees, so a table just gets in the way.  
I have two problems with commercial oscillating spindle sanders: 
1) The drum mounts are usually proprietary - you can only use their drums
2)  The mounts are not a simple 1/2 inch rod.  With a simple 1/2 inch rod, other things can be mounted - a chuck that can hold burrs and cutters - any other cutting tool that has a 1/2 inch mount,  buffing pads, grinding wheels.
 
It is easy to get drums with a variety of diameters that will fit directly on a 1/2 inch shaft.  I prefer sleeveless drums,  It is easy to replace the cutting material using sandpaper sheets.  I worry about the tightening to secure a sanding sleeve to a rubber drum getting the drum out of round.
I also have a drum that is 3 inches diameter and 6 inches tall.  The extra height is useful for large frames.
 
TEFC - the drums generate much sawdust.  An enclosed motor with its own cooling fan protects the motor.  I also have a large piece of cardboard with a 1/2" hole in its center sitting on the motor where the shaft comes out - It directs the sawdust away from the motor.
 
It is important to have a lot of air flow around the motor.  If used for very long, it gets hot.
 
My motor is CW/CCW.  I wired a drum switch so that the rotation can be reversed at will.  I had to have a tech person at the motor manufacturer email me the wiring diagram - It is a lot more complicated than connecting 3 wires.