Jaager

If a thickness that is almost thin enough to read thru is needed, a very sharp plane may get you a semi thick shaving.
A knife and steel straight edge for the other dimension.
A compatible wood species would increase the probability of success.  No loss to kerf, either.
You would need to research the type of plane that does this.  I expect it will need a high quality plane and a whole lot of practice.
Maybe White Pine, because the examples of long wide curls from a plane seem to come from Pine.
Holly, because it bends so well may be an option. 
Advantage Lumber still shows the low quality, non-white stock at $6.00/BF  and some stock that is more clear for $12.00/BF.
Holly that has been infected by Blue Mold is just as sound as normal Holly, it is just blue or grey.

The issue with square-hole drawplates is that they are designed for pulling metal wire through. It essentially squeezes metal; it doesn't cut. Wood needs to be cut or shaved; it really doesn't squeeze well! That is why a drawplate for wood, such as the Byrnes' is of a different form than a traditional jewelers' drawplate. I don't know of such a square drawplate design on the market.

You might consider giving yellow PVA a try.
PVA does not bond as a putty type substance would. It "invades" the wood surface pores and irregularities with long chains.  The chains interlink in the gap between the two surfaces. 
Concepts to keep in mind as PVA is applied:
The smaller the gap, the stronger is the bond.
The more surface are covered, the stronger the bond.
We work with very small surface areas that have tight tolerances - if done correctly.
I have good luck using miniature sponge sticks -
I use the packing foam that comes in sheets or rectangles.  An actual sponge paint applicator would work as a source, but the other stuff is free.
The flexible and irregular surface packing material that can suck up the PVA is what is wanted.
The stuff that is like Styrofoam cups or peanuts is not at all a good choice.
A Gem single edge or carpet layers cutter will allow for any size and shape needed to get at any particular surface.
Duco is not all that good for much, but a round toothpick (or two or three) can be dipped in it and then pushed into a hole in the foam.   This makes for a handy handle that can be ready to go in about 15 minutes.  If you have a favorite foam stick, it can be rinsed in tap water and reused - if you get to the sink before the PVA has a chance to set.
 
Use the foam stick to apply a just wet PVA layer on both meeting surfaces.  If done correctly, there should be minimal squeeze out.  If it is where it will not be sanded off later, a damp paper towel, or steel blade scraper easily removes it.
 

You might consider giving yellow PVA a try.
PVA does not bond as a putty type substance would. It "invades" the wood surface pores and irregularities with long chains.  The chains interlink in the gap between the two surfaces. 
Concepts to keep in mind as PVA is applied:
The smaller the gap, the stronger is the bond.
The more surface are covered, the stronger the bond.
We work with very small surface areas that have tight tolerances - if done correctly.
I have good luck using miniature sponge sticks -
I use the packing foam that comes in sheets or rectangles.  An actual sponge paint applicator would work as a source, but the other stuff is free.
The flexible and irregular surface packing material that can suck up the PVA is what is wanted.
The stuff that is like Styrofoam cups or peanuts is not at all a good choice.
A Gem single edge or carpet layers cutter will allow for any size and shape needed to get at any particular surface.
Duco is not all that good for much, but a round toothpick (or two or three) can be dipped in it and then pushed into a hole in the foam.   This makes for a handy handle that can be ready to go in about 15 minutes.  If you have a favorite foam stick, it can be rinsed in tap water and reused - if you get to the sink before the PVA has a chance to set.
 
Use the foam stick to apply a just wet PVA layer on both meeting surfaces.  If done correctly, there should be minimal squeeze out.  If it is where it will not be sanded off later, a damp paper towel, or steel blade scraper easily removes it.
 

You might consider giving yellow PVA a try.
PVA does not bond as a putty type substance would. It "invades" the wood surface pores and irregularities with long chains.  The chains interlink in the gap between the two surfaces. 
Concepts to keep in mind as PVA is applied:
The smaller the gap, the stronger is the bond.
The more surface are covered, the stronger the bond.
We work with very small surface areas that have tight tolerances - if done correctly.
I have good luck using miniature sponge sticks -
I use the packing foam that comes in sheets or rectangles.  An actual sponge paint applicator would work as a source, but the other stuff is free.
The flexible and irregular surface packing material that can suck up the PVA is what is wanted.
The stuff that is like Styrofoam cups or peanuts is not at all a good choice.
A Gem single edge or carpet layers cutter will allow for any size and shape needed to get at any particular surface.
Duco is not all that good for much, but a round toothpick (or two or three) can be dipped in it and then pushed into a hole in the foam.   This makes for a handy handle that can be ready to go in about 15 minutes.  If you have a favorite foam stick, it can be rinsed in tap water and reused - if you get to the sink before the PVA has a chance to set.
 
Use the foam stick to apply a just wet PVA layer on both meeting surfaces.  If done correctly, there should be minimal squeeze out.  If it is where it will not be sanded off later, a damp paper towel, or steel blade scraper easily removes it.
 

These terms are often used in a fast and loose manner with no anchor to what they really mean, so some posts can be confusing.
 
I think these are functionally precise definitions:
 
A sanding sealer, or sand-n-sealer -  a clear and thick mixture with micro particles -  the main use is as a base coat on furniture built using open pore wood species such as Oak, Walnut, Ash...   It fills the open pores so that when viewed at an oblique angle, the final surface appears to be glass smooth.
Opinion:  it is too thick for scale use.  Open pore wood is best not used at all on scale models if the wood is to be clear finished.  There are other ways to fill pores before painting.
 
A primer is generally a 50% diluted clear material intended to soak in deeply and limit any additional material layers to being surface only.  The traditional primer is half strength shellac.  It is easy to apply, easy to undo, quick to dry, low cost, and compatible with most any other materials applied over it.
If an clear oil finish is the goal, half strength Tung oil can be its primer coat or I am guessing half strength Linseed oil will serve as as its primer.  Both would want additional time to polymerize before being covered over.  50% shellac is probably more cost effective as a primer for these. 
Shellac is alcohol based and the oils are organic solvent based.  They do not raise wood grain.
Paint can be its own primer, it just requires more coats to get a dense enough surface layer.  If the paint is water based, the surface may need fine sanding to remove any raised grain.
 
A dye is a monomolecular solution of a pigment that soaks into wood and changes its color.  It does not change the surface.  It does not obscure wood grain.  If anything, it increases the contrast,  This is not necessarily a wonderful thing on a scale model, so having grain with lower contrast is a deciding factor for the choice of wood species if it is to be clear finished.
Dyes come water based and alcohol based.  The water based dye soaks in more deeply, but the first application raises wood grain unless a dilute PVA/water solution is used first and then sanded when dry.  The alcohol based dye does not raise grain and on a model, any effect that a deeper water dye penetration may provide is probably too slight to be noticed, so alcohol based is probably the better choice.   No primer effect with either is there.
 
A stain is a suspension of pigment particles in a solution with a polymerizing binder.  This is also the definition of paint.  The pigments are wood colored and some commercial products may also contain a dye so that it can advertise that it penetrates.  
Opinion:  on a model, if it is wood that needs a stain before clear finish it would serve you better to replace this wood species with one that needs no pore filling or grain hiding with a semi-transparent paint - which is what a stain is.  The purpose of a stain is to try to make a low quality wood appear to be a high quality wood ona piece of economy furniture.

I would place a sizable bet, that you have some homemade ropewalk product there.
 
The corrugated cardboard is what I use to hold my ropewalk product.  I used the wrong spacing and got a layup that looked like that --- like string. 
It is probably waxed, so what you feel is probably not indicative of its substance.
If it is waxed cotton or linen, treatment with a solvent to remove the wax may be necessary for a dye to penetrate. 
If it is a synthetic polymer, a dye will probably not take. 
If it is a synthetic, the solvent meant to remove wax may turn it into a gummy mess, so test a small piece first.
It looks like it could pass for steel standing rigging - if the size matches your scale - and even thin black paint - maybe organic solvent based - may make it stiff like wire.
I sure would not have been much interested in pulling steel running rigging bare handed. I would not have wanted to even be on deck if a steel rigging rigging line broke loose and whipped around.  My point being that while steel standing rigging makes sense - using it as running rigging seems like it could have been dangerous.  

Is it weed green or synthetic dye green?
 
The linen yarn that I bought from one of the Baltic countries is what I guess the dried flax plant stem would be.  Or at least a variety grown in the Baltic region.  When I owned 5 acres and gardened, during the Winter one year, I thought about planting some flax.  Then I read about the process required to convert the plant stems into yarn and thought better of it.
 
The other suppliers have white, half bleached, and natural - which is not as green. 
Hemp is a tan/yellow  so white (bleached) and half bleached would not match.  I have no problem using the Baltic green for running rigging.   I plan for a dark Walnut (Van Dyke) dye for standing rigging.  But my interest stops at 1860.
 
Cutty is a different generation and technology.  There may well have been steel cable -  depending on when in her working life is chosen.  There was actual petrol based tar during Cutty's time, so actual black would probably match.
 
If your purchase actually includes real linen - that would be something special.

Is it weed green or synthetic dye green?
 
The linen yarn that I bought from one of the Baltic countries is what I guess the dried flax plant stem would be.  Or at least a variety grown in the Baltic region.  When I owned 5 acres and gardened, during the Winter one year, I thought about planting some flax.  Then I read about the process required to convert the plant stems into yarn and thought better of it.
 
The other suppliers have white, half bleached, and natural - which is not as green. 
Hemp is a tan/yellow  so white (bleached) and half bleached would not match.  I have no problem using the Baltic green for running rigging.   I plan for a dark Walnut (Van Dyke) dye for standing rigging.  But my interest stops at 1860.
 
Cutty is a different generation and technology.  There may well have been steel cable -  depending on when in her working life is chosen.  There was actual petrol based tar during Cutty's time, so actual black would probably match.
 
If your purchase actually includes real linen - that would be something special.

I would place a sizable bet, that you have some homemade ropewalk product there.
 
The corrugated cardboard is what I use to hold my ropewalk product.  I used the wrong spacing and got a layup that looked like that --- like string. 
It is probably waxed, so what you feel is probably not indicative of its substance.
If it is waxed cotton or linen, treatment with a solvent to remove the wax may be necessary for a dye to penetrate. 
If it is a synthetic polymer, a dye will probably not take. 
If it is a synthetic, the solvent meant to remove wax may turn it into a gummy mess, so test a small piece first.
It looks like it could pass for steel standing rigging - if the size matches your scale - and even thin black paint - maybe organic solvent based - may make it stiff like wire.
I sure would not have been much interested in pulling steel running rigging bare handed. I would not have wanted to even be on deck if a steel rigging rigging line broke loose and whipped around.  My point being that while steel standing rigging makes sense - using it as running rigging seems like it could have been dangerous.  

Mark,

Sustainable Northwest Wood
2701 SE 14th Ave, Portland, OR 97202
 
They have 4x4 and 8x4 Madrone lumber - they anywhere near you?
 
By the way, I left a price quote inquiry for AYC with a lumber yard on your side of the continent, no joy today
maybe the holiday?
 

The Science Museum had a model of HMS Prince that may meet your spec -

The wise path is to buy a tool when you know that you will need it.  That is not advice I have ever been able to follow myself.  It does not apply if having tools 'just in case' is one of your compulsions.  It does give you an extensive knowledge base of tools that are useless. 
One tip, basic tools are much less likely to be a part of that knowledge base than handy looking jigs and gimmicks with catchy names - tools that you could make yourself from scrap and have it be a better fit.
 
It sounds like you have your head on straight as far as how you are beginning this. 
It may serve you to look for local woodworkers and self employed custom cabinet makers. Neato tools, small supplies of domestic lumber, and a short cut to mentor level skills and knowledge.

The wise path is to buy a tool when you know that you will need it.  That is not advice I have ever been able to follow myself.  It does not apply if having tools 'just in case' is one of your compulsions.  It does give you an extensive knowledge base of tools that are useless. 
One tip, basic tools are much less likely to be a part of that knowledge base than handy looking jigs and gimmicks with catchy names - tools that you could make yourself from scrap and have it be a better fit.
 
It sounds like you have your head on straight as far as how you are beginning this. 
It may serve you to look for local woodworkers and self employed custom cabinet makers. Neato tools, small supplies of domestic lumber, and a short cut to mentor level skills and knowledge.

The wise path is to buy a tool when you know that you will need it.  That is not advice I have ever been able to follow myself.  It does not apply if having tools 'just in case' is one of your compulsions.  It does give you an extensive knowledge base of tools that are useless. 
One tip, basic tools are much less likely to be a part of that knowledge base than handy looking jigs and gimmicks with catchy names - tools that you could make yourself from scrap and have it be a better fit.
 
It sounds like you have your head on straight as far as how you are beginning this. 
It may serve you to look for local woodworkers and self employed custom cabinet makers. Neato tools, small supplies of domestic lumber, and a short cut to mentor level skills and knowledge.

The wise path is to buy a tool when you know that you will need it.  That is not advice I have ever been able to follow myself.  It does not apply if having tools 'just in case' is one of your compulsions.  It does give you an extensive knowledge base of tools that are useless. 
One tip, basic tools are much less likely to be a part of that knowledge base than handy looking jigs and gimmicks with catchy names - tools that you could make yourself from scrap and have it be a better fit.
 
It sounds like you have your head on straight as far as how you are beginning this. 
It may serve you to look for local woodworkers and self employed custom cabinet makers. Neato tools, small supplies of domestic lumber, and a short cut to mentor level skills and knowledge.

As long as Roger and Bob have introduced POF intended to be totally planked, here is a way to do that:
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/22608-la-renommee-1744-by-jaager-160-frigate-pof-using-the-fully-planked-solid-hull-option-of-the-station-sandwich-method-this-option-is-offered-as-an-alternative-to-pob-using-filling-wood-between-each-mold/
Now, I would use knot and sap free construction Pine from a builder's supply instead of Hard Maple.  I would also forego any attention to port location during the frame-up.  The frames make it easy to site them later.  The inside can be rough and wider. I was being compulsive in the moulded dimension be determined by the scantlings.  The sided dimension can be whatever is convenient. Using 1/4" stock works well.  There will be an odd thickness layer in every station section to get distance correct.
 
If the hull is to be planked, only one layer is needed. If the hull is to be copper covered, and the frame dimensions are properly adjusted, no planking is needed where there is to be copper.  With a stencil and the proper actual copper containing paint, the bottom can be paint only,  The ModelMaster (?) line has old penny copper and with it being the actual metal, any  green oxidation can be place where it is wanted.
 
Until Roger and Bob brought the above subject up, I did not intend to present the above.  I wrote, but decided not to post the following:
An interesting tree     your namesake is.
Although it is not really a species for use with a scale model ship if the unpainted wood is to be on display,  you could use Burr Oak or any other Oak for molds, since it will be hidden.  It is not the best of choices, but it is an option.
 
A mold is actually what is named a bulkhead really is.  Western wooden ships did not have bulkheads.  Chinese seagoing Junks did have bulkheads.
 
A single piece of wood can be used for a mold.  The thicker it is, the better it will do its job.
A factor ruling against the use of solid wood for molds - at least for the larger scales is the width of the plank it must be resawn from.
Any Oak is fairly dense and offers resistance to being cut and shaped.  Clear Pine will do just as well and is less expensive.
 
There is a  scratch log for Charles W. Morgan  doing exactly what you want to do, and is POB,  right at the top of the 1801-1850 forum.

Gregg,
 
Here is one way
 
There is a Woodcraft in your city.  The Lime can be replaced with a better acting wood species.  There are packages of veneer of Hard Maple, Birch, and Beech.   The smaller size is ~$20.   Straight grain, NOT rotary cut (when cut like a continuous sheet like from  a roll of paper towels, the wood will want to re-curl across the grain. )   A very sharp #11 style knife and a steel straight edge will free the scale planking from the stock.
 
It is unwise to dilute PVA that is used for a wood-wood bond.  If what you have is too thick to spread as a wet layer, it may be too old. 
Get a new bottle of Titebond II when you get the veneer.  
The job in question may be an opportunity to try the contact glue version of PVA.   This is: apply a thin layer of PVA to both surfaces to be joined.  Let the glue dry (polymerize).  Place the two pieces together and apply heat from an iron or maybe heat gun.  Take care not to char the wood or even so much as to denature it.    Practice on scrap first,  Practice as lot.
Wet to wet PVA bonding is stronger  It wants weight or pressure to make the gap as small as is practical.
Making the bonding surface half heat contact and half wet to wet may be the best of both ways, but it requires constant attention and concentration to keep straight what goes where.
 
Do research to learn the proper placement and staggering of deck butts.  Unless your vessel is 16th century or earlier, they will not be close together.
On and actual vessel, the trunnels are all but invisible unless you are on your hands and knees, so if you add them, it is for model decoration - not historical.  Learn the patterns used.  Just having four trunnels only at each butt joint looks ridiculous.
A scraper or a quality single edge razor blade is a good way to even the decking to the same plane.
Half strength shellac primer and full strength 2nd coat with a ScotchBrite rubbing is probably all the finish that is needed.

Gregg,
 
Here is one way
 
There is a Woodcraft in your city.  The Lime can be replaced with a better acting wood species.  There are packages of veneer of Hard Maple, Birch, and Beech.   The smaller size is ~$20.   Straight grain, NOT rotary cut (when cut like a continuous sheet like from  a roll of paper towels, the wood will want to re-curl across the grain. )   A very sharp #11 style knife and a steel straight edge will free the scale planking from the stock.
 
It is unwise to dilute PVA that is used for a wood-wood bond.  If what you have is too thick to spread as a wet layer, it may be too old. 
Get a new bottle of Titebond II when you get the veneer.  
The job in question may be an opportunity to try the contact glue version of PVA.   This is: apply a thin layer of PVA to both surfaces to be joined.  Let the glue dry (polymerize).  Place the two pieces together and apply heat from an iron or maybe heat gun.  Take care not to char the wood or even so much as to denature it.    Practice on scrap first,  Practice as lot.
Wet to wet PVA bonding is stronger  It wants weight or pressure to make the gap as small as is practical.
Making the bonding surface half heat contact and half wet to wet may be the best of both ways, but it requires constant attention and concentration to keep straight what goes where.
 
Do research to learn the proper placement and staggering of deck butts.  Unless your vessel is 16th century or earlier, they will not be close together.
On and actual vessel, the trunnels are all but invisible unless you are on your hands and knees, so if you add them, it is for model decoration - not historical.  Learn the patterns used.  Just having four trunnels only at each butt joint looks ridiculous.
A scraper or a quality single edge razor blade is a good way to even the decking to the same plane.
Half strength shellac primer and full strength 2nd coat with a ScotchBrite rubbing is probably all the finish that is needed.

First,
I doubt that anyone but you will even notice.
White PVA usually dries water clear.
Titebond II dries amber.
Titebond III dries a brown color.
 
PVA is water based, so adding dry aniline dye could in theory darken the polymerized glue.  I tried it and found that there is not enough water in stock PVA to dissolve much of the dye.   Mixol make a liquid concentrate that may work.
Once PVA has polymerized, it is a plastic.  Nothing water based will stick to it.  You may be able to cover the parts that concern you if you buy a Walnut shade or if one does not exist mix several colors of artist's oil base paint.  Thin it with an organic solvent enough  to need several thin coats.  Impasto will want sanding and doing that will probably remove all of what you apply.  There are very fine touch up brushes.
 
On a side note, I am hard pressed to think of any species of wood that would have been used to plank a hull - that actually had a dark Walnut color to it.   Being decorator instead of strict historical offers you more degrees of freedom for your presentation.

Gregg,
 
Here is one way
 
There is a Woodcraft in your city.  The Lime can be replaced with a better acting wood species.  There are packages of veneer of Hard Maple, Birch, and Beech.   The smaller size is ~$20.   Straight grain, NOT rotary cut (when cut like a continuous sheet like from  a roll of paper towels, the wood will want to re-curl across the grain. )   A very sharp #11 style knife and a steel straight edge will free the scale planking from the stock.
 
It is unwise to dilute PVA that is used for a wood-wood bond.  If what you have is too thick to spread as a wet layer, it may be too old. 
Get a new bottle of Titebond II when you get the veneer.  
The job in question may be an opportunity to try the contact glue version of PVA.   This is: apply a thin layer of PVA to both surfaces to be joined.  Let the glue dry (polymerize).  Place the two pieces together and apply heat from an iron or maybe heat gun.  Take care not to char the wood or even so much as to denature it.    Practice on scrap first,  Practice as lot.
Wet to wet PVA bonding is stronger  It wants weight or pressure to make the gap as small as is practical.
Making the bonding surface half heat contact and half wet to wet may be the best of both ways, but it requires constant attention and concentration to keep straight what goes where.
 
Do research to learn the proper placement and staggering of deck butts.  Unless your vessel is 16th century or earlier, they will not be close together.
On and actual vessel, the trunnels are all but invisible unless you are on your hands and knees, so if you add them, it is for model decoration - not historical.  Learn the patterns used.  Just having four trunnels only at each butt joint looks ridiculous.
A scraper or a quality single edge razor blade is a good way to even the decking to the same plane.
Half strength shellac primer and full strength 2nd coat with a ScotchBrite rubbing is probably all the finish that is needed.

Gregg,
 
Here is one way
 
There is a Woodcraft in your city.  The Lime can be replaced with a better acting wood species.  There are packages of veneer of Hard Maple, Birch, and Beech.   The smaller size is ~$20.   Straight grain, NOT rotary cut (when cut like a continuous sheet like from  a roll of paper towels, the wood will want to re-curl across the grain. )   A very sharp #11 style knife and a steel straight edge will free the scale planking from the stock.
 
It is unwise to dilute PVA that is used for a wood-wood bond.  If what you have is too thick to spread as a wet layer, it may be too old. 
Get a new bottle of Titebond II when you get the veneer.  
The job in question may be an opportunity to try the contact glue version of PVA.   This is: apply a thin layer of PVA to both surfaces to be joined.  Let the glue dry (polymerize).  Place the two pieces together and apply heat from an iron or maybe heat gun.  Take care not to char the wood or even so much as to denature it.    Practice on scrap first,  Practice as lot.
Wet to wet PVA bonding is stronger  It wants weight or pressure to make the gap as small as is practical.
Making the bonding surface half heat contact and half wet to wet may be the best of both ways, but it requires constant attention and concentration to keep straight what goes where.
 
Do research to learn the proper placement and staggering of deck butts.  Unless your vessel is 16th century or earlier, they will not be close together.
On and actual vessel, the trunnels are all but invisible unless you are on your hands and knees, so if you add them, it is for model decoration - not historical.  Learn the patterns used.  Just having four trunnels only at each butt joint looks ridiculous.
A scraper or a quality single edge razor blade is a good way to even the decking to the same plane.
Half strength shellac primer and full strength 2nd coat with a ScotchBrite rubbing is probably all the finish that is needed.

Gregg,
 
Here is one way
 
There is a Woodcraft in your city.  The Lime can be replaced with a better acting wood species.  There are packages of veneer of Hard Maple, Birch, and Beech.   The smaller size is ~$20.   Straight grain, NOT rotary cut (when cut like a continuous sheet like from  a roll of paper towels, the wood will want to re-curl across the grain. )   A very sharp #11 style knife and a steel straight edge will free the scale planking from the stock.
 
It is unwise to dilute PVA that is used for a wood-wood bond.  If what you have is too thick to spread as a wet layer, it may be too old. 
Get a new bottle of Titebond II when you get the veneer.  
The job in question may be an opportunity to try the contact glue version of PVA.   This is: apply a thin layer of PVA to both surfaces to be joined.  Let the glue dry (polymerize).  Place the two pieces together and apply heat from an iron or maybe heat gun.  Take care not to char the wood or even so much as to denature it.    Practice on scrap first,  Practice as lot.
Wet to wet PVA bonding is stronger  It wants weight or pressure to make the gap as small as is practical.
Making the bonding surface half heat contact and half wet to wet may be the best of both ways, but it requires constant attention and concentration to keep straight what goes where.
 
Do research to learn the proper placement and staggering of deck butts.  Unless your vessel is 16th century or earlier, they will not be close together.
On and actual vessel, the trunnels are all but invisible unless you are on your hands and knees, so if you add them, it is for model decoration - not historical.  Learn the patterns used.  Just having four trunnels only at each butt joint looks ridiculous.
A scraper or a quality single edge razor blade is a good way to even the decking to the same plane.
Half strength shellac primer and full strength 2nd coat with a ScotchBrite rubbing is probably all the finish that is needed.

First,
I doubt that anyone but you will even notice.
White PVA usually dries water clear.
Titebond II dries amber.
Titebond III dries a brown color.
 
PVA is water based, so adding dry aniline dye could in theory darken the polymerized glue.  I tried it and found that there is not enough water in stock PVA to dissolve much of the dye.   Mixol make a liquid concentrate that may work.
Once PVA has polymerized, it is a plastic.  Nothing water based will stick to it.  You may be able to cover the parts that concern you if you buy a Walnut shade or if one does not exist mix several colors of artist's oil base paint.  Thin it with an organic solvent enough  to need several thin coats.  Impasto will want sanding and doing that will probably remove all of what you apply.  There are very fine touch up brushes.
 
On a side note, I am hard pressed to think of any species of wood that would have been used to plank a hull - that actually had a dark Walnut color to it.   Being decorator instead of strict historical offers you more degrees of freedom for your presentation.

First,
I doubt that anyone but you will even notice.
White PVA usually dries water clear.
Titebond II dries amber.
Titebond III dries a brown color.
 
PVA is water based, so adding dry aniline dye could in theory darken the polymerized glue.  I tried it and found that there is not enough water in stock PVA to dissolve much of the dye.   Mixol make a liquid concentrate that may work.
Once PVA has polymerized, it is a plastic.  Nothing water based will stick to it.  You may be able to cover the parts that concern you if you buy a Walnut shade or if one does not exist mix several colors of artist's oil base paint.  Thin it with an organic solvent enough  to need several thin coats.  Impasto will want sanding and doing that will probably remove all of what you apply.  There are very fine touch up brushes.
 
On a side note, I am hard pressed to think of any species of wood that would have been used to plank a hull - that actually had a dark Walnut color to it.   Being decorator instead of strict historical offers you more degrees of freedom for your presentation.