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Gluing deck, will this work?


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Gluing plank by plank takes time and I dont get glue under the whole plank.

 

If I cut and lay all deckplanks and secure them with eachother with tape, then lift the whole thing and glue, put it back.

Someone working this way?

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It takes time to do things neatly and accurately in this hobby of ours.  Why are you not able to get glue on the underside of the entire plank?  Maybe I am misinterpreting your problem. 

 

 Looking for a fast way to do something usually is not a good idea.  I see no advantage in taping planks together then gluing them down all at once, but I see a lot of potential problems.     Maybe someone has done as you are suggesting though, it will be interesting to see.   Never too late to learn something new.

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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I think you would spend as much time taping as you would gluing, so I don't see how you would save any time.

 

I glue my planks to paper off the model, before gluing the completed assembly onto the model.

 

20200318_163024.jpg.26be657f1c871363416781ee7c8d94cf.jpg

 

QuarterDeckFinished.jpg.b63ad64c42d48edf2232498d317c3f13.jpg

 

It take a little more time but easier to adjust and correct mistakes.

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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What glue do you use?

 

I glued a deck and it took a lot of time and my wife wandered how I could spend som much time accomplish just that.

I glued every plank with yellow glue, but I`m not sure I got glue everywhere, maybe I was too afraid of getting glue on top of the deck.

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Like Allen, I'm not clear why you're having difficulty getting glue onto the entire plank?

 

Also, from my experience I'd much rather fit individual pieces in place than try to make a whole assembly fit into place. It's much easier to correct mistakes as you go than all at once at the end. A full-taped-deck approach might work for something simple, but would seem very difficult for a complex vessel with hatchways and other details the planks have to fit around. Seems that you'd spend more time measuring and recreating the work than just doing it once in the first place. And I'd be concerned about even the slightest slippage of planks from the tape, which would leave unsightly gaps or otherwise have things out of place. But if you try it with success, let us know!

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27 minutes ago, ubjs said:

What glue do you use?

I use Elmer's  white glue.

GlueTip.jpg.101dabffd8f1de3a5eb68bcec1ef696e.jpg

 

I put a few drops along the plank and spread it with this plastic knife which creates little ridges of glue.

I keep a wet cloth handy to clean up goofs..

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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Agree with others, it isn’t a race. Planking a deck around hatches with a tight fit at bulwarks takes time. The best way to do it right is a plank at a time. I see more potential for problems than for a good outcome trying your suggested approach. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: HMS Winchelsea
Completed Builds: HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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I concur with everyone. Look at my Lady Nelson build log #123 - #127. Took me 5-6 hours total over 3 days. Cut and fit 1 row of planks at a time and then glued each plank in place with wood glue one at a time. Zero mess and no cleanup. Don’t use too much glue. Doesn’t take much.

Edited by Dave_E

Dave

 

Current builds: Rattlesnake

Completed builds: Lady Nelson

On the shelf: NRG Half Hull Project, Various metal, plastic and paper models

 

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There's no need to put glue on the whole plank.  Put a drop on each bulkhead/frame /beam at the spot you want the plank.  Install plank and clamp into place.  As others point out, it prevents a lot of problems doing one plank at a time.  Given the nature of PVA, one can glue down a plank on the starboard side and then work on one on the port side.  Back and forth and you'll get a rhythm for the process.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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25 minutes ago, Cathead said:

Mark, I think the original poster was referring to decking, not hull planking.

That's the way I do it on decks.  I should have clarified that I start inboard on each side and work my way outboard.  Sorry for the confusion.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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The boat model that I build on is the steamer Bohuslän and the decks are simple in shape 
but large and quite numerous. Now I will lay the stern deck which is built in and 
will not be visible so much from the outside so I thought I would try to make it a 
little easier. There should be a lot of chairs and tables on it as well.

I shall test doublesided clear tape as I have used when building roads for Faller cars on my model railroad modules. I used it for securing the guiding metalthread that the cars follow, and I have some tape left.

Maybe I tape it on paper and then glue the whole thing at the false deck.

 
Edited by ubjs
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6 hours ago, Gregory said:

put a few drops along the plank and spread it with this plastic knife which creates little ridges of glue.

You might consider giving yellow PVA a try.

PVA does not bond as a putty type substance would. It "invades" the wood surface pores and irregularities with long chains.  The chains interlink in the gap between the two surfaces. 

Concepts to keep in mind as PVA is applied:

The smaller the gap, the stronger is the bond.

The more surface are covered, the stronger the bond.

We work with very small surface areas that have tight tolerances - if done correctly.

I have good luck using miniature sponge sticks -

I use the packing foam that comes in sheets or rectangles.  An actual sponge paint applicator would work as a source, but the other stuff is free.

The flexible and irregular surface packing material that can suck up the PVA is what is wanted.

The stuff that is like Styrofoam cups or peanuts is not at all a good choice.

A Gem single edge or carpet layers cutter will allow for any size and shape needed to get at any particular surface.

Duco is not all that good for much, but a round toothpick (or two or three) can be dipped in it and then pushed into a hole in the foam.   This makes for a handy handle that can be ready to go in about 15 minutes.  If you have a favorite foam stick, it can be rinsed in tap water and reused - if you get to the sink before the PVA has a chance to set.

 

Use the foam stick to apply a just wet PVA layer on both meeting surfaces.  If done correctly, there should be minimal squeeze out.  If it is where it will not be sanded off later, a damp paper towel, or steel blade scraper easily removes it.71930207_28_PVAapplicators.jpg.e36549bb319d6376d6cffc98c05d72c3.jpg

 

Edited by Jaager

NRG member 45 years

 

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Glenn, no need to be rude. Certainly the clarification that the original poster is asking about a mostly hidden sub-deck changes the context slightly, since slight errors will be less noticeable and it might well be worth doing it more efficiently. Nothing wrong with the poster trying it and reporting back.

 

This should be a place where we welcome questions, not mock people, even if we don't agree with them. Far too easy to turn people away from the hobby or community that way.

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