Jaager

What happens if you use a dimmer switch or router speed control with the AL unit?

I take it that you are soliciting feedback by writing this:
 
 
"Mill"
If you are going to work metal,  an actual mill is needed
If it is just wood that will be worked - a rebranded EuroTool small drill press - sharp cutters - and a quality XY table will probably suffice.
 
"Table saw (I like the Byrnes machine) (I have a full size machine for rough cuts already)"
Nothing else approaches this.
 
"Thickness planer (I also like the Byrnes for this)"
Nothing else approaches this.
 
"Band saw (cheapo WEN)"
not really a wise choice.  All bandsaws are squirrely to fine tune.  Even benchtop models need to be quality.  Quality is important.
Your entry here says that no serious resaw of boards is an objective.
For effective resawing, a floor model 14" at least will save on frustration
Even for a benchtop paying a bit extra for something like a Rikon 10" for scroll cutting will save you on heartache.
 
"Reciprocating spindle sander (cheapo WEN)"
Not wishing to deal with sandpaper tubes that are expensive, and have limited suppliers,  and compressed drums to hold them at can be made out of round.  I opted for sleeveless - which meant that I supply the motor and mount it vertical.
 
"Disk and belt sander combo (cheapo WEN)"
I have an old Dremel combo -  the disk part is not accurate and I could not get much use from a 1" belt.
The 5" Byrnes disk sander is about as good as it gets.   The only downside is if you plan to sand styrene or other sheet plastic - the Byrnes can not be set to have a reduced speed.
For a belt - a HF 4"x36"  -  it is low cost and shows it - I did not even mount the disk part - the housing on the back is thin - my shopVac pulled it into the backside of the belt. A steel angle brace keeps it away from the belt.  A belt sander does not really need to be precision to do rough bulk wood removal.   Using the rounded end for getting at inside curves works, but keeping the environment from being a dense cloud of sawdust is beyond most any vac.
 
"Lathe (though I think this will be purchased somewhat down the road - BTW, those vintage Unimat machines look the BUSINESS.  They seem to scream quality!)".
I have a Unimat SL 1000 and yes - it is both precise and accurate.  It was a real loss when the company went out of business.
A lathe is mostly an important machine if you intend to work metal.   Most anything it can do to wood can be faked using much less expensive machines - except maybe using a duplicator attachment for multiple copies of cannon and such.
 
Something that I bit on because my budget allowed for it is a Foredom TX flex shaft -  It is a high quality and versatile machine.  Besides the obvious rotary function - there are attachments for a small belt sander, angle grinder - drill,  attachments to make it into a miniature router, and sturdy drill press.  So far for me it is a tool looking for a job,  but it is anything but junk.   The TX model is about power and torque, not blindingly fast rotary speed.

I have a DustDeputy  in-line - so except for some really fine particles the filter is clear and bin is empty.  Besides, it started life with me having a short on cycle.   I figure that a sensor is faulty.  I used to be big on using IPL and ordering and replacing faulty and worn out parts.  Either living alone or getting beyond retirement age has greatly dampened my enthusiasm  or I guess it could be my black dog.   I am betting that replacement sensors and the trouble involved with taking things apart and reassembled would match the cost of the Rigid, now that I think on it.   It annoyed me that the instructions said not to use a cyclone trap.  There is no constricting aperture involved with the trap, so what possible effect could it have?   Trap or no trap,  remote control on/off or straight to 110V wall outlet - none of it affected the short cycle unreliable nature of the Festool - so I am more than a little displeased with it.

I cannot keep the Festool running - the overheat switch or whatever keeps tripping - the Rigid that I bought said it was quiet.  It is quiet enough not to need ear muffs, but not quiet enough for Mozart to be heard.

The Science Museum had a model of HMS Prince that may meet your spec -

A really poor bit of instruction!    PVA should have been used.  It is not instant grab and clamping can be a challenge.  Unlike a contact adhesive, PVA will last.  PVA can be made to be like a contact adhesive.  A thin coat on both surfaces - let dry - join - apply enough, but not too much heat with an iron.  The bond will not be as strong as wet to wet PVA, but will probably be stronger than DAP. 
 
I have found no solvent that dissolved DAP contact cement.  It losses its bond and makes sticky balls when rubbed with Naphtha or Mineral Spirits.  It is a real mess to undo.  It makes for a bond that lasts maybe 10 - 20 years.  Time and probably 02 , make it become brittle.  A painful learning experience?
 
 
A single coat of 1:1 diluted shellac  (1 part shellac to 1 part 95% ethanol (shellac thinner)) ( Even if you could get 100% ethanol - which requires distillation from Benzene - as soon as it is exposed to air, it sucks in water from the atmosphere and quickly becomes 95%.).
If you are compulsive - a follow-on coat of full strength shellac.  Buff with a ScotchBrite pad - wipe clean and use any sort of paint.
 
 

I have an old Aeropiccola Torino plank bender -  it works well on thin Maple.
I do not see that a curling iron is any different in technology.  I would give a dry heat curved surface and then a damp version of the same a long intense effort before devolving to something meant for full size like a steam chamber,  ..... or a microwave - which has a good possibility of doing serious harm to the unseen interior. 
With the plank bender, I learned that wearing a pair of cotton or Kevlar carving gloves will save on blisters and unwanted notification that fingers not holding the wood are where they should not be.
 
The real keys to success are probably:
using the correct species of wood to begin with  -  most if not all of the species provided with mass market kits are probably species that resist bending.
the thickness
if the stock is thin and wide - bending across the thick dimension is never going to go well,
 
 
 

A really poor bit of instruction!    PVA should have been used.  It is not instant grab and clamping can be a challenge.  Unlike a contact adhesive, PVA will last.  PVA can be made to be like a contact adhesive.  A thin coat on both surfaces - let dry - join - apply enough, but not too much heat with an iron.  The bond will not be as strong as wet to wet PVA, but will probably be stronger than DAP. 
 
I have found no solvent that dissolved DAP contact cement.  It losses its bond and makes sticky balls when rubbed with Naphtha or Mineral Spirits.  It is a real mess to undo.  It makes for a bond that lasts maybe 10 - 20 years.  Time and probably 02 , make it become brittle.  A painful learning experience?
 
 
A single coat of 1:1 diluted shellac  (1 part shellac to 1 part 95% ethanol (shellac thinner)) ( Even if you could get 100% ethanol - which requires distillation from Benzene - as soon as it is exposed to air, it sucks in water from the atmosphere and quickly becomes 95%.).
If you are compulsive - a follow-on coat of full strength shellac.  Buff with a ScotchBrite pad - wipe clean and use any sort of paint.
 
 

The Science Museum had a model of HMS Prince that may meet your spec -

The Science Museum had a model of HMS Prince that may meet your spec -

The Science Museum had a model of HMS Prince that may meet your spec -

A really poor bit of instruction!    PVA should have been used.  It is not instant grab and clamping can be a challenge.  Unlike a contact adhesive, PVA will last.  PVA can be made to be like a contact adhesive.  A thin coat on both surfaces - let dry - join - apply enough, but not too much heat with an iron.  The bond will not be as strong as wet to wet PVA, but will probably be stronger than DAP. 
 
I have found no solvent that dissolved DAP contact cement.  It losses its bond and makes sticky balls when rubbed with Naphtha or Mineral Spirits.  It is a real mess to undo.  It makes for a bond that lasts maybe 10 - 20 years.  Time and probably 02 , make it become brittle.  A painful learning experience?
 
 
A single coat of 1:1 diluted shellac  (1 part shellac to 1 part 95% ethanol (shellac thinner)) ( Even if you could get 100% ethanol - which requires distillation from Benzene - as soon as it is exposed to air, it sucks in water from the atmosphere and quickly becomes 95%.).
If you are compulsive - a follow-on coat of full strength shellac.  Buff with a ScotchBrite pad - wipe clean and use any sort of paint.
 
 

A really poor bit of instruction!    PVA should have been used.  It is not instant grab and clamping can be a challenge.  Unlike a contact adhesive, PVA will last.  PVA can be made to be like a contact adhesive.  A thin coat on both surfaces - let dry - join - apply enough, but not too much heat with an iron.  The bond will not be as strong as wet to wet PVA, but will probably be stronger than DAP. 
 
I have found no solvent that dissolved DAP contact cement.  It losses its bond and makes sticky balls when rubbed with Naphtha or Mineral Spirits.  It is a real mess to undo.  It makes for a bond that lasts maybe 10 - 20 years.  Time and probably 02 , make it become brittle.  A painful learning experience?
 
 
A single coat of 1:1 diluted shellac  (1 part shellac to 1 part 95% ethanol (shellac thinner)) ( Even if you could get 100% ethanol - which requires distillation from Benzene - as soon as it is exposed to air, it sucks in water from the atmosphere and quickly becomes 95%.).
If you are compulsive - a follow-on coat of full strength shellac.  Buff with a ScotchBrite pad - wipe clean and use any sort of paint.
 
 

A really poor bit of instruction!    PVA should have been used.  It is not instant grab and clamping can be a challenge.  Unlike a contact adhesive, PVA will last.  PVA can be made to be like a contact adhesive.  A thin coat on both surfaces - let dry - join - apply enough, but not too much heat with an iron.  The bond will not be as strong as wet to wet PVA, but will probably be stronger than DAP. 
 
I have found no solvent that dissolved DAP contact cement.  It losses its bond and makes sticky balls when rubbed with Naphtha or Mineral Spirits.  It is a real mess to undo.  It makes for a bond that lasts maybe 10 - 20 years.  Time and probably 02 , make it become brittle.  A painful learning experience?
 
 
A single coat of 1:1 diluted shellac  (1 part shellac to 1 part 95% ethanol (shellac thinner)) ( Even if you could get 100% ethanol - which requires distillation from Benzene - as soon as it is exposed to air, it sucks in water from the atmosphere and quickly becomes 95%.).
If you are compulsive - a follow-on coat of full strength shellac.  Buff with a ScotchBrite pad - wipe clean and use any sort of paint.
 
 

Bashing does seem to be a common term used here when a kit is improved, upgraded, partially scratch built,etc. 
I first saw the term kit bashing in a plastic model magazine.  There it described the combination of two or more kits of wildly different subjects. A plastic brig with DC3 wings and 1960's 5" destroyer gun  and tank tracks sort of thing.  Based on what what kit bashing originally described, using it to describe what is done here on a kit is being a bit hyperbolic.  Especially if the goal is a model that is an exact opposite of an anachronism.

I own the ANCRE monograph of Le Cerf.  I worked on lofting the frames for POF.   When I encountered the notches in the frames for the planks, the idea of doing that was more than I cared to attempt.  The framing style displayed in the monograph is unique to say the least.  I find the hull too small to offer much viewing joy if left unplanked.  Starting with base of a fully planked hull,  I opted to develop my theoretical plan of construction with all bends and scantlings that match a hull of that size in that era.  The traditional method of clinker assembly has the lands cut from the planks.   I speculate that full scale framing timbers would be a bit thick for a laser cutter to cut the notches.  I would not attempt to cut the notches in the timbers of 100 frames by hand.
 
Your work has shown me several things:
The efficiency of using a laser cutter to produce the proper notches in the moulds on a POB build.
That there is a method to the madness of the original builders in choosing the cut the lands into the much thicker framing instead of the thin planks.
As long as the notches are done correctly, the actual planking is idiot proof.  It is much more difficult to misplace a strake run.
That the planking went much more quickly for you using notches suggests that it was also faster for the full size builders. Even if they did not have the glue setup time as a factor.
Cutting the lands into each plank probably required more skill and experience as well as more time on the part of the shipwrights.
 
I thank you for running the experiment.  It was edifying and useful.  I expect that it was unintended and frustrating on your part, but it was valuable for those of us who can learn from it.
 
And,  if the results of my searches have been anywhere close for what is available,  you will find that Pear is a lot more difficult to find and expensive and Hornbeam near impossible on this side of the Atlantic.

Kevin,
Same idea for the same reason:
I opted for the long gooseneck LED - with an  ON/OFF magnetic base.  It is not low cost, but it is bright, the magnet is a strong one, and it can get close but  not in the way.

I see!  So it is the zone where top timbers and half tops reside.   A hardwood scab on the front and/or the back would make it even stronger.

I see!  So it is the zone where top timbers and half tops reside.   A hardwood scab on the front and/or the back would make it even stronger.

I see!  So it is the zone where top timbers and half tops reside.   A hardwood scab on the front and/or the back would make it even stronger.

For POF trunnels can add significant hold strength.   There are many contemporary models that use either brass or wood and some with both.  The diameter is out of scale.  No reference to support this, but I think that the choice of glue then was hide glue.  It would likely have been either a home made extract or a cottage made product - no QA.   Both English and French built models have doweling.  The patterns and numbers match full size requirements.   My money is on there being method behind most everything the old guys did.  It was a professional and shop built operation back then.
 
Pins and trunnels can be effective clamps also.  Although using bamboo trunnels to hold wet planks down can be tricky.  Some species of bamboo are strong and hold up to push pressure.  Some species are not so strong.  They bend  and crack.  The perverse aspect is that the softer species are much easier to pull and have a higher yield.  A high speed electric drill with industrial HSS bits of standardized diameters probably makes this much easier for us.    

It is my guess, but perhaps Franklin was first on the market with yellow PVA and it gained enough of the market attract competitors.  Effective advertising and placement in how-to magazines did the rest.
 
As for the rubber cement - Over time the bond will fail. No surface treatment is likely to save it.
Bamboo dowels may, but there is not much backing support for them.  The wood species makes it more decorator than historical, so even brass pins could enhance the presentation. There is still the problem of not enough support thickness.
 
A more permanent  solution may be to number each plank.  Treat the hull with n-Hepane to solubilize the rubber cement.  Remove the planking.  Clean all surfaces of cement.  Then reapply the planking using PVA.
 
The re-application processes is a lot like the kit coming with pre-cut and pre-bent planking. Except that instead of a computer guided laser, it is a human guided tool.

I have had excellent results using rubber cement.  I use a high quality brand - BestTest.  I apply a healthy coat to both surfaces - let it dry for ~15 min - then apply.  This is an instant grab- no adjustment version.  It will hold for a long time.  It just takes rubbing with your thumb to completely remove it.   I have a bottle of n-heptane - the solvent.   adding it to the cement bottle when it gets too thick to brush easily.
 
Plain paper can be a bit of work to get started to curl up - it will tear - the edge is a challenge to get under.  To make my patterns easier to remove, mostly immune from the effects of humidity, and protected from dirt and smudges - I brush a thick layer of brushing lacquer on the sheets. 
The solvent is fierce enough when brushed outside, I would never consider any spray version.  I overlap all four edges with 1/4" crepe masking tape because if the lacquer sneaks under the pattern and dries the patterns stick to the butcher paper they are taped onto.

For POF trunnels can add significant hold strength.   There are many contemporary models that use either brass or wood and some with both.  The diameter is out of scale.  No reference to support this, but I think that the choice of glue then was hide glue.  It would likely have been either a home made extract or a cottage made product - no QA.   Both English and French built models have doweling.  The patterns and numbers match full size requirements.   My money is on there being method behind most everything the old guys did.  It was a professional and shop built operation back then.
 
Pins and trunnels can be effective clamps also.  Although using bamboo trunnels to hold wet planks down can be tricky.  Some species of bamboo are strong and hold up to push pressure.  Some species are not so strong.  They bend  and crack.  The perverse aspect is that the softer species are much easier to pull and have a higher yield.  A high speed electric drill with industrial HSS bits of standardized diameters probably makes this much easier for us.    

It is my guess, but perhaps Franklin was first on the market with yellow PVA and it gained enough of the market attract competitors.  Effective advertising and placement in how-to magazines did the rest.
 
As for the rubber cement - Over time the bond will fail. No surface treatment is likely to save it.
Bamboo dowels may, but there is not much backing support for them.  The wood species makes it more decorator than historical, so even brass pins could enhance the presentation. There is still the problem of not enough support thickness.
 
A more permanent  solution may be to number each plank.  Treat the hull with n-Hepane to solubilize the rubber cement.  Remove the planking.  Clean all surfaces of cement.  Then reapply the planking using PVA.
 
The re-application processes is a lot like the kit coming with pre-cut and pre-bent planking. Except that instead of a computer guided laser, it is a human guided tool.