Rustyj
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Everything posted by Rustyj
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I've continued to work on the keel. I pulled the parts from the billets and prepped them. Chuck has mentioned that the wood is so thick it's pushing the laser cutting to the extreme. You can see the wedges and how the laser cut tapers. It doesn't cause any issues though. The wedges were assembled, cut to match the plans and added to the lower apron. Next I will be adding the rising wood and working on the deadwood and wedges that go on the deadwood.
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Off to a great start Rick.
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Looking good Shawn!
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Looks really nice Steve. I've put a coat of WOP on mine. I feel it helps keep it clean. It does add a little depth to the wood but not a lot. I do put light a coat on and wipe it off right away. That seem to help retain the natural color.
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What fantastic workmanship. I can't to see all the work you've completed since last year's show!
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And a lot of fun to assemble.
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Moving along I've finished the boxing joint and the first parts of the keel. Next I'll add the false keel and the pieces on top of the keel for the rabbet strip.
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That looks sooooooo nice.
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Thank you Mike and Chuck. Thanks Glenn. And I get to relive Winnie by watching your fine work!
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It was mentioned earlier that it's best to sand pieces prior to removing the from the billets. The way I do it is with a sanding block. I use 180 the 320 grit sandpaper. It's self-adhesive. It is also handy for finish sanding completed pieces like the stem. I usually use Minwax wipe on poly. My local store was out but they did have Watco satin wipe on poly. I've used other Watco products and liked them so I gave it a try. It's a little thicker than the Minwax but covers nice and looks the same. Next I'll start working on the keel. Oh this is fun!
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Yes I am planning on it. Hopefully nothing gets in the way.
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I like the idea of having one mylar set. Thanks Ben.
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Thanks Mike. I'm really looking forward to this build. Rick Mike is correct on the two boards. The scrap pieces I had on hand were about 3" short so I put the one piece you saw across the end just to be safe. Thanks for checking in one me. I'll need all the extra eyes I can find. I look forward to you starting your Speedwell!
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I got the extra printed plans back and have completed the build board. I got a 3/4" (19mm) thick MDF board for the base. I also put two 1"x2" boards length wise underneath to ensure the board does not go out of shape. It also elevates the base in case I want to use clamps for some insane reason. The plans were attached using a 3M spray mount adhesive. It worked really well. I also put together the keel support jigs. On to the stem next.
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Great work Glenn. It always freaked me out when we either had to cut or remove the molding. As aways you did a perfect job!
- 840 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Another superb build! It was a pleasure to follow along with you and your log will be used by many who follow!
- 648 replies
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- Indefatigable
- Vanguard Models
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I pulled out some of my 25lb line and with a #74 drill bit on a piece of scrap I got a nice tight fit.
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Thanks Ryland. I hope to see you at the CT show.
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I downloaded them to a thumb drive and went to Staples. They sent them to their print shop and will let me know when they are done.
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Hi all. Another Syren Speedwell starting here. I received mine a couple of days ago. I haven't done more than look the wood over, print chapter one of the monograph and order copies of the first three sheets of the plans. The first two sets of parts look fantastic. As you would expect the cutting is first rate and the AYC is so nice. My first steps will be to read the monograph a couple of time plus review Chuck's and Mike's build's. Also, I'll get the wood for the build board and glue the plans to it. Once I've completed that I'll start in on the stem. Let the adventure begin!
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Thanks Chuck. Just what I was looking for! Great to have the smell of AYC in the shop again.
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Nice to see you continuing to do such nice work!
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The planking looks great and still leaves a good visual of below.
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Resisting is futile Glenn!
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