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Everything posted by chris watton
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And a very nice job you have done on her, great case, too!
- 103 replies
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- Grecian
- baltimore clipper
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I always find it better to do just a little fairing of the most extreme parts before gluing in place, and then doing the main faring once the whole skeletal structure is securely in place - because the material is homogonous, sanding should be quite easy when compared to ply.
- 32 replies
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- Saucy Jack
- Vanguard Models
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A little longer on that, as we need to move to a larger premesis in order for me to produce another kit of that size. That or I let Indy stock run down completely, stop selling it and another large kit take its place. It comes down to space to stock the kit parts, laser cut sheets,materials, boxes, plans/manuals etc. Whe have, or the company has outgrown our home.
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For belaying, if in doubt, just belay to the nearest appropriate point that doesn't foul any other lines.
- 587 replies
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- Indefatigable
- Vanguard Models
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After years of trying to figure out the best sequence for the standing rigging, I found that, for me at least, the best thing to do is add all shrouds, lower and topmast, incuding lower futtock shrouds. I then add the ratlines while the area is still uncluttered with rigging. After this, the topgallant shrouds are added, then onto the stays. I sometimes fit the yards before shrouds, pinning them so I can tilt them up or down when doing the ratlines. After shrouds and ratlines, rigging comes together pretty quick, as the shrouds and rats are last longest single job to do on the model.
- 587 replies
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- Indefatigable
- Vanguard Models
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I do have the gun brig Adder and another small kit that will soon be released in the new year (All they need is the prototypes building and then manual completed, as everything else is done, designs, cut files, plans etc.) - and yesterday I did make a small start on my 17th kit. ETA - This year hasn't been so bad, with Indy released in March, followed by Grecian and Trial cutter, plus the Speedy rework, which was no small job.
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A little update: I am still very busy, and have just completed another batch of Sphinx laser cut parts. After that was complete, I moved onto the new cannon and carriages (including carronades), which I am almost finished laser cutting and 3-d printing. I will paste the full list of cannon and carronades I will offer below - the carronades are now sold in pairs, instead of singles. Once these are done, I need to produce more Indy stuff, as we are now getting very short of some parts. And after that, I can finally produce my laser cut part for my little kits, so I can get those prototype models finished. I have already completed all of the plans for them, but cannot continue until I have cut the prototype laser cut parts. Here is the full list for cannon and carronades I now offer (I am still waiting for the PE for the early 12 pounder carronade, which will be back in stock as soon as the sheets arrive): New and updates cannon and carriage kits - Cap Square now integrated with carriage sides All Sets are priced per pair and all 1:64th Scale. Laser cut pear and 3-D printed barrels Armstrong 3-Pounder cannon (Barrel overall length - 24mm) - £4.20 Armstrong 4-Pounder cannon (Barrel overall length - 29mm) - £4.40 Blomefield 4-Pounder cannon (Barrel overall length - 29mm) - £4.40 Armstrong 6 pounder, 6 ½ feet length (Barrel overall length – 34.4mm) - £5.00 Armstrong 6 pounder, 7 ½ feet length (Barrel overall length – 39mm) - £5.30 Blomefield 6-Pounder, 6 feet length (Barrel overall length – 31.4mm) - £5.00 Blomefield 6-Pounder, 7 ½ feet length (Barrel overall length – 38.5mm) - £5.30 Armstrong 9 pounder, 7 feet length (Barrel overall length – 37.2mm) - £5.80 Armstrong 9 pounder, 8 ½ feet length (Barrel overall length – 44.4mm) - £6.00 Blomefield 9-Pounder, 7 feet length (Barrel overall length – 36.5mm) - £5.80 Blomefield 9-Pounder, 8 ½ feet length (Barrel overall length – 43.6mm) - £6.00 Armstrong 12 pounder, 7 ½ feet length (Barrel overall length – 40mm) - £8.30 Armstrong 12 pounder, 9 feet length (Barrel overall length – 47.2mm) - £9.00 Blomefield 12 pounder, 7 ½ feet length (Barrel overall length – 39.1mm) - £8.30 Blomefield 12 pounder, 9 feet length (Barrel overall length – 46.25mm) - £9.00 Armstrong 18 pounder, 8 feet length (Barrel overall length – 42mm) - £8.30 Armstrong 18 pounder, 9 feet length (Barrel overall length – 47.8mm) - £9.00 Blomefield 18 pounder, 8 feet length (Barrel overall length – 41.8mm) - £8.30 Blomefield 18 pounder, 9 feet length (Barrel overall length – 46.6mm) - £9.00 Armstrong 24 pounder, 9 ½ feet length (Barrel overall length – 50.6mm) - £11.00 Blomefield 24 pounder, 9 feet length (Barrel overall length – 47mm) - £10.50 Blomefield 24 pounder, 9 ½ feet length (Barrel overall length – 49.3mm) - £11.00 Armstrong 32 pounder, 9 ½ feet length (Barrel overall length – 51.2mm) - £12.50 New Carronade kits (includes 3-d Printed wheels) Now sold in pairs and all to 1:64th Scale Laser cut pear and 3-D printed barrels and wheels Carronade – 12-Pounder (Barrel overall length – 18mm) - £7.00 Carronade – 18-Pounder (Barrel overall length – 20.5mm) £7.50 Carronade – 24-Pounder (Barrel overall length – 22.5mm) £8.00 Carronade – 32-Pounder (Barrel overall length – 24.8mm) £8.50 Carronade – 42-Pounder (Barrel overall length – 27.3mm) £9.00
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I lied! I did add Clews, sheets and tacks for the square sail yards! I didn't mean to, must have got carried away.... I did mean to leave them off completely...
- 103 replies
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- Grecian
- baltimore clipper
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For the Grecian (and Duchess of Kingston) the rigging is simplified, as I left off clews, sheets, tacks, leech and bowlines, so the spars only have ties, lifts and braces, the bare minimum.
- 103 replies
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- Grecian
- baltimore clipper
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I sometimes start at the belaying point and then work upwards to where the line is secured to the yard...
- 103 replies
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- Grecian
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If you want to have a go at a Victory that doesn't break the bank, the 78th Panart version isn't too bad, if you're willing to put the work in.
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Carefully scrape off with a knife blade, and then re apply a drop of varnish. This is what I do, at least. I normally suggest 0.1 natural for rats becase it is not nearly as stiff as the black, so less likely to pull the shoulds too much. The Indian Ink then also helps secure the clove hitches - but always paper behind the shrouds, to keep any splashes to an absolute minimum.
- 103 replies
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- Grecian
- baltimore clipper
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When that happens with me (and it always does, even for braces sometimes), I apply diluted PVA to the lines and run my fingers down them. This does help.
- 103 replies
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- Grecian
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Again, thank you so much for all of your kind comments, they do mean a lot to me, and helps reaffirm my enthusiasm for the hobby. I know that my products and business live or die based mostly on word of mouth, they are very low volume compared to the main players, as it takes much longer to produce each kit, and the pear is not as plentiful as standard kit wood, always having to order 2-3 months in advance for the quantities I need. Anyway, another thing I forgot to mention is that I have produced a few sets specifically for 18-gun brigs, and only because at some point, I shall produce my own 18 gun brig. I have a set of armament, 16 x 32 pounder carronades (1795-1815), with laser cut pear carriages, 3-d printed barrel and carriage wheels (like on Indy, Grecian and Trial Cutter), and 2 x 6 pounder long guns (Blomfield). No etch to go with them, but I could include the small copper eyelets. If there's any interest in this set, let me know. I added a 32nd scale cannon crew set to the product list, as I do plan to produce a cannon diorama at some point. Finally, Midwest Model Shop emailed me late last night, with a link wo a first impressions review of our diminutive Saucy Jack (Not sponsered by me, he ordered and paid full price just like anyone else - I didn't even know he was doing this until be sent the link):
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