chris watton
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Everything posted by chris watton
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Do not trust the flat line drawings too much, as the actual model has curves, so when you lay the part on the flat drawing, it will not align due to the drawing being flat.- 473 replies
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Sergal and Panart were/are part of the Mantua group, from what I understand
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I will add a sentence in the manual when ready for reprint, stating that you can add the cannon barrels any time you like once the hull has been painted and you no longer have to lay the hull on its side or upside down. For gluing them in place, you can use superglue or epoxy resin. Regarding rigging plans for cannon, I have never designed a kit and made the model showing this, except perhaps breech ropes on the odd occasion. This is because I do not like to add this detail, as unless they are done very very well using very small blocks and hairless thread, they never stand up to close photographic scrutiny. In fact, I have seen many very well made models almost ruined by the inclusion of fully rigged cannon. But this is entirely my preference, and each modeller is different.
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That is a very neat job!
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Most late 18th Century Admiralty Board Models were/are fully planked, the models with frames showing is more of a 17th Century practice - but did extend well into the 18th Century. But overall, a model at the time of Indy would most probably have had a fully planked hull - but still full internal detail.
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They are simply alignment holes, for you to pin in place to help keep all aligned. After the glue has set, you can either remove the pins or cut them so they're flush with the surface. They probably aren't really needed, but there if you want to use them. I have a lot of small holes like that for when I am first developing the prototype, and usually removed for the production version. This time, I decided to leave in place, thinking they may be useful for some modellers.
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I think I will put this one just one above the fishing boat kits. It builds up almost like the Erycina/Ranger, except the bulwarks are triple layered instead of double, it has plenty of guns and, of course, it is a lot larger. But design principles are more or less identical to my beginner kits.
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- Grecian
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I do believe that as a privateer, she had 9 pounders, and quite a lot of them too, with almost all the gun ports being populated. At least, if memory serves...
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I would put shot garlands in between the gun ports, either on the bulwark (in line or just below the lower gun port edge) or on the deck, up against the bulwark.
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Indy kits are being completed with plans and manual. The boxes are 175mm deep (7 inches), and near full to the top, with just a tad over 15kg total weight, so care needs to be taken when handling this behemoth...
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OK, I have just received my shipment of Indy plans, manual and box label (I took a pic of the manual and a few plans, but not all of them, as we need to lay them all out in order later). The manual is very nice quality, very big (A3) and very heavy! This means Indy is officially on sale now, and as I mentioned in my previous post, all pre orders will be booked to ship next week. I have also attached a couple of pics of new flags that came this week - a Blue Ensign, so I now have the complete set of Red, White and Blue sets. Also, I had some US flags made, in keeping with the correct period for Grecian (I hope)!
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What I have sent Jim is essentially a complete kit for Grecian, with the USB stick with my assembly pics instead of the manual. He will have all laser cut parts, photo etched sheets (which arrived this morning)! fittings, wood strip and dowel and a set of full size plans - all in a box custom sized for this kit. Almost forgot, also a Grecian paint set!
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- Grecian
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The Indy pre orders will all be shipped next week. I am expecting the printed material to be with me today or tomorrow. The pre orders are all already packed and just need the plans and instructions added.
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Trust me, if she had gunports for each gun port, I would have added a lid for each.
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It is much easier compared to quality ply as the density is consistent.
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- Fly
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Gobsmackingly gorgeous! And the only boxwood version in existence!
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- Duchess Of Kingston
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Very nicely done, Tom, Joanne and Paul will be delighted with that, I have no doubt!
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She looks fantastic, very well done, Andrew! These may be small models, but what they lack in size is more than made up for in character, and you have really brought your kit to life.
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No, it would be no good for your Speedy, as new bulkheads would have 2mm slots, not 3mm,, as the main keel is in 2mm. Plus I am only thinking of doing this, nothing concrete yet. Laser cutting is done on one side only, two sides would be too time consuming from a production point of view I may do that at some point, I usually just throw it out, being no good to me...
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It is mentioned in the book 'Frigates of the Napoleonic Wars, by Robert Gardiner. I assume you do not have this book? ETA - I am stone cold sure she would have also had a built up forecastle for most of her career, but decided not to go that far for aesthetic reasons. ETA 2 - Just got that book out to double check, this is what it says: 'The draught may not represent the ship as finally fitted out.........but his (Pellew's) correspondence with the Admiralty twice mentions fourteen quarterdeck ports (as opposed to twelve shown on the draught), and he was eventually allowed two additional 12 pounders for the 'spare' quarterdeck ports. By the time she captured Virginie, she was reported to carry eighteen 42 pounder carronades and two long 12 pounders on the upperworks, so must have had a total of twenty ports, which probably means seven per side on the quarterdeck'
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I have explained this twice before. Research did tell me that Indy had 18 carronades and 2 x 12 pounder chase guns. The only way these could have been fitted is if the quarter barricade was extended.
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Just the same as I do with all the more recent kits, a pear centre keel in 2mm pear with a 1mm outer face on either side, to which the planking butts up to.
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I would go with Jim's advice, I have noticed that some guns do look too large the carriage they're seated on, but this seems to have been the way.
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Adding more internal detail, as opposed to standard block-type model kits, add a hell of a lot of time and materials and going further, what Chuck is doing now, the fully framed model kit takes that even further in time and material count. I try to make my kits a kind of 'halfway house' between the two. But this does increase the material count a lot when compared to standard kits. However, I think it is worth it, as I love detail and having most parts scale thicknesses. But it does come at a cost in time, money and metal health! lol
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