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chris watton

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Everything posted by chris watton

  1. HMS Bristol, a sister to the later built Leopard, was to be my second kit in the range. However, things changed a lot after Alert. You see, I was going to have all my laser cutting done in Italy, using ply, MDF and limewood, and castings in white metal, again, all from Italy. When the fist Alert parts arrived, I knew immediately that this is not the way I want to go, looking forward. The laser cut lime was about as robust as tissue paper, and the white metal castings looked nothing like the masters I had made. This is when I decided to use much better materials for all future kits, and since then, I have been establishing more contacts for suppliers. This did mean I needed a rethink of immediate developments, and the decision to purchase my own laser machine, as sub contract costs would have been crippling for the type and amount of cutting I had in mind. The reason Bristol was put back is because the cost of the materials alone would have cleaned me out (at that time). The second reason is that I really need 2 laser machines before starting this, and one needs more power and a larger bed, for the thicker materials needed. I am now in a position where I could carry on with this, but my real love/yearning is for a large frigate before this. But all of Bristol's carvings have already been done, as is the armament, plus bulkheads, decks and all general hull lines already worked out.
  2. Cheers! For the next big one (and it will be big), I am torn between three possibilities, and flit between them depending on mood.. I do know that next is two English West Country fishing vessels (and very pleasing lines they have, too), and then a medium sized kit of a detailed 18 gun brig (20 foot longer than Flirt/Speedy Class). Then, I have to make up my mind on the big kit.
  3. One of the first things I tried when wet between the ears. You are right, the laser reflects right back to the underside of the material, rendering the sheet scrap.
  4. Cheers! But I would like the same make as the one I have, as I have grown to know the machine intimately, and knowing how to prepare the files for laser cutting/engraving. A completely different machine will have different software requirements for the laser to read the files, and this could be a problem if I need to swap files from one machine to the other. They are not cheap, but it has not let me down once, the only ongoing expense being the extractor filters (and many cans of Mr.Muscle oven cleaner to clean the bed...)
  5. OK, we have released the final 5 Sphinx kits to stock. Once these are gone, that is it for this production run. I will not be able to get more PE until next month at the earliest, as Italy is now on holiday. And I thought I had enough to last a while! I think I have already mentioned this, but the photo etched sheets were changed at the very last minute to include all PE part numbers etched on the sheet, which should make identification easier..
  6. Damn, you make me sound like some kind of weird cult! lol No, I finance all new equipment from kit sales.
  7. Never asked my supplier, all I ask for is pear, and also ask for it to be good quality, so no idea about swiss/unswiss - but am sure I will now you have asked. I have actually sent a batch or two back, as they are awful.. Most of time what I get is pinkish, but for the planking, I did ask for a lighter tone in my last batch. I cannot always guarantee this, as I get what I am sent, which is the way for a natural product. I would prefer the very light pear every time, as to me, it looks perfect on 18th Century subjects, but I also know most of the time, I get the pinkish colour. What I do know for sure is that I desperately need another larger, more powerful laser machine, and soon!
  8. Sphinx kits will not start shipping until the week after next, as we are waiting for the print work, which was submitted on Friday. Kits are being made up now, though. Not a quick job, as parts have to be very carefully packaged - these are not mass produced goods...
  9. Here is the box label for the first 50 kits - at least you can overall dimensions of the model. Just weighed the laser cut wood pack, almost 3kg, more than a whole Duchess kit!
  10. Forgot to add (I think), for Sphinx, I sourced some scale black 'cannon balls', 1/16" (around 1.5mm), so they do actually fit in the barrels!
  11. Have sold 39, so 11 left - but these were originally kept back for trade (35 for direct sales and 15 for trade ). However, I am releasing the rest of what I have left and will do another batch as soon as I can. Already ordered another batch of PE. Looks like I will be living in the laser room for a while, not that I mind! So, today, I will finish laser cutting another 4 Speedy Master Shipwright kits, and then back onto Sphinx laser cutting. The laser cutting is the main reason I could no longer have the two jobs...
  12. Thank you Regarding parts, I am not sure, never counted them all up. You can however download the manual on the Sphinx page on my site: HMS Sphinx – 1775 – VANGUARD MODELS The full parts list is near the end. As for sails, I honestly haven't really given them much thought, as I prefer the models 'Dockyard Style', with just masts, yards and rigging. I include sail options for smaller kits, as I can appreciate many prefer to have the choice, and they seem to suit smaller craft.
  13. Yes, there are only 2 lots of planking strip, the 1x5mm limewood for first planking, and the 0.8mm pear for second planking.
  14. I would say it is a kit most could build. BUT, they need to take their time at every stage and not rush anything. The batch of 0.8x4mm pear strip I ordered for these kits is the best I have seen, nice and light, too, so will look fantastic under the blue and gold upper works. If I were building it again, I would use the planking under the upper half of the pre etched and cut sides.
  15. I am stunned, thank you all for your support. I never thought I would sell so many. I did enough for 50 in total, as I always order 50 PE sets (which weigh in at 20kg for Sphinx). But castings, thread and anything else non PE and laser cut, I ordered 100 kits worth. I will add a couple more to stock, but damn, thank you! I have put in a repeat order for the photo etched sets, and will start another production run of laser cut parts, each kit takes well over 6 hours cutting/engraving time.. And again, thank you!
  16. I always use a length of 0.8mm ply, about an inch or so wide with sand paper wrapped around it to sand the bulkheads. I find this works really well as I it is flexible enough to bend and sand all edges it comes into contact with (both convex and concave). I usually sand until most of the laser char is removed.
  17. No, it's a nightmare right now, I only have the smallest of surfaces left to do work on my two new developments, a little corner of the dining room table! Luckily, the two I am working on are quite small, as you can see in these pics of Nisha, the smallest! We have had a quote from some builders to convert our large double garage into a proper unit. Supposed to start this next month, but knowing builders, they probably won't show up... I have ordered more materials (pear sheet) to make a new batch of kits in October/November time
  18. We are hoping to have the manual on the website soon (Sphinx page), all plans, manual and box art complete and with printers. The manual is so large that we have had to increase the upload limits on the server!
  19. James has build logs of both the Zulu and Fifie: Both of these were designed with the complete beginner in mind
  20. Am always tempted do a Caledonia or Commerce de Marseille, just to see the look on my wife's face as the skeletal structure grows on the dining room table...
  21. Yes, Sphinx is rigged - all standing rigging, and running rigging has all yard associated rig, tie, jeers, lifts and braces. Other rig included sheets, clew's and tacks if you want to go that far. For future reference, I have never designed a period ship kit that does not include rigging. For Sphinx, there are 8 50x70cm plan sheets dedicated to masts and rig, plus quite a few pages in the manual showing mast and yard assembly.
  22. That looks fantastic, Derek! I got the idea of using a clear material for the stand when looking through the AOTS book of Alert. There's a picture showing a contemporary model on a clear stand and I thought that would be cool if I could do the same, as I don't think any other mainstream kits do this. They are also a lot less intrusive, as the whole hull can still be seen. The MDF cradle is a throwaway item, to be discarded once the model is complete. Another little note on why stands/cradles are so important to be included (in my opinion), is that they give the model the correct stance/angle for marking the waterline. Out of the 9 kits I have thus far developed (including the two I am doing now), only one, the Sphinx has the waterline more or less parallel to the keel. The other 8 do not. Each cradle needs to be designed with each unique angle in mind - off the shelf turned columns just wouldn't do.
  23. In every kit, I include two stands, the one shown above, which is for the build only, and a much nicer acetate stand to display the finished model which, for Sphinx, has a laser engraved nameplate for each side. I know that a lot of kits do not include any stand, and if they do, they call it a 'Bonus'! I have attached a pic of the display stand for Sphinx, and next to it is the two stands for my upcoming sub £100 kit - the MDF is for the build and the acetate version with nameplates is for the final display. No matter what cost the kit, they all have the two stands.
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