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chris watton

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Everything posted by chris watton

  1. Finalising the upper deck pattern now that bulkhead tabs have been removed, bowsprit fits like a glove..
  2. Yes, Tanganyika, I use this because it is much cheaper than pear (as my model will be thrown away), and it is easier to plank with, being much softer. This means I could plank the whole lower hull in one session. Only have it in 1x4mm though, and the kit second planking is 1x5 pear, so I had to use more planks.... You can see the upper deck beams below the jigs, not sure why you would think those jigs would be beams!
  3. The keel, prow, stern post and rudder are made from three separate parts each, a 3mm pear inner, and then clad in 1mm pear each side, which also has laser engraved detail. For the keel, stern and prow, these outer patterns have the rabbet for the second planking.
  4. I just removed the masking tape after adding the second planking to my 'pre-prototype mule' (planking took a day and sanding half an hour, but I used tang). Again, I must stress that this is very rushed, so apologies...
  5. If decals are used in a kit, I will always put the depth markings on that. You will also have double the amount required, so if you make a mistake, you can try again - and you have 4 stern names, with one required, so you can use a couple to practise on. No 0.8mm ply for the decks in this kit design for the first time ever!
  6. I decided on including two stern options because the original is bereft of any decoration, not even pillars in between the windows - and I knew some would question this, after watching the film. (I agonised over this for weeks...) So, as standard, the stern is slightly reworked to include pillars in between the windows, and also the shape of the windows have been given a little more 'flare' towards the ends. The reworked stern also has windows that can be posed open, as per the Indy. I have also worked both sterns so you can have the stern chaser ports open and a 6-Pounder in place if you so wish. ETA: Here are the profiles for Sphinx and Surprise. The Sphinx would look more like the film Surprise (which is based on HMS Rose, a 20 gun mid-18th Century ship, and exactly the same size as Sphinx). You can see the real Surprise was quite a bit longer, being 126 feet along the main deck.
  7. Jim hasn't got all the parts yet, as I am yet to complete designs for the upper works (inner bulkheads etc.). I asked my wife to add all the furniture, so Jim can see what will work best, there will be some laser cut parts for these too, like on Indy.
  8. Or a much nicer and up to date kit of Eggs'n'Bacon! Not sure if the figure looks like Russell Crowe - but bear in mind, at 64th (which will be the main scale), it is rather small. No plans on retirement.....
  9. OK, the other day, I had my final STL file for one of the two Aubrey figures. Unfortunately, my white primer went a little 'bitty', so doesn't look the best, but you can see the general details - this will be included in the kit: I also decided to design the hand pump bodies and brackets for 3-d printing, as having to make up 6 of these would be a little boring to do for the modeller. My sample Surprise photo etched sheets are also now with me, all I have to do now is finish building up the hull and take pics for Jim to work from - Time is just melting away...
  10. It's going well! The more complex the designs, the longer these things take. A lot of CAD work, so nothing to show as yet. I can tell you the decal sheet is done and has been delivered, and most of the resin print production is done. It is quite a large and complex kit with many pre cut and pre engraved parts, the latter more than even Indy, and all of this takes time to develop. Once I start cutting my final designs and build it up, for Jim to follow, I can post pics of my final prototype build, but until then, it is all just on CAD, on my PC. This applies also to the photo etched files. I need to complete these at the same time the laser cut designs are more or less cooked, and those are 90% done. Rest assured though, this is all I am working on, although I do get side tracked a lot due to having to produce more stock for current kits....
  11. My fault, I really should have added an explanation in the manual. The tiller that you see is auxiliary - there is another tiller arm a little further down the rudder. If you look at the rudder, you can see I simulated the start of the lower tiller arm (a little stub near the top, but lower than the deck tiller arm) If you also showed a picture of the actual rudder, the lower tiller stub would be seen.
  12. Very beautiful job you have done. I have sad many times, I am always amazed at the very high quality of work I see on this forum, and your Alert is right up there!
  13. Damn, I thought I put more than enough deadeyes in - I shall add a few extra for future kits.
  14. I did already email you with my answer, so here is a portion of that emial I have already sent you you: I have used MDF for the past 18 years, starting at Amati - I am very surprised you did not know this! As I have explained countless time now, for some of the more complex designs, ply was no good, why? Because the tolorances on the thicknesses are comical, they can be anything between 2.7-3.4mm for a 3mm thick sheet. This is OK with very simple kits (just a simple keel and a few bulkheads), but not when so many parts need to slot and interlock well - using ply would be a disaster, as batches can vary a lot in thickness. Also to add, when sanding the bulkheads, it is much easier as the material is all the same.
  15. OK, now in stock (Finally...) The Viking ship "Oseberg" Version 3 (Ships of Pavel Nikitin) – Vanguard Models Captain John Smith's Shallop - Ships of Pavel Nikitin – Vanguard Models
  16. On a separate note, I should have my shipments of Pavel Nitikin Viking ships and John Smiths Shallop kit arrive next week - I can tell you that the shipping costs were horrific...
  17. This morning I was sent the renders for the alternative figurehead for Surprise (and I suspect the one that most will use). Both versions will be included in the kit. Still have a lot of time to spend on this development...
  18. Yes, I use CA for the same thing, but that is never left on the model, it is just to make it easier to push the rope through the holes in the blocks.
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