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Loracs

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  1. It was my first build... I found it very enjoyable. I would recommend it to anyone.
  2. Now, I have to give credit to CAF in many other areas... my comment has to be balance. 1) Design: fantastic design overall. If you are into POF this is a very nice provider, one of few. 2) Originality: Le coureur, which is one unique ship' hull available commercially. HMS Granado, a split design already incorporated within the design of the kit, that a first too. La Renommee seen here, the level of details is impressive. 3) Licensed plan/design, this is one consideration that matter to many. Those are some of the pluses I can think right now.
  3. I agree but chapter need to be available... if it takes 2 years to get a next chapter or it is always in limited, short-term supply, that a huge deterrent. Second, "chapters" seen to be a reason to boost the overall price while staying under the radar. Some "modules" are the price of a whole kit! I'm NOT taking about intensive boxwood carving but standard plan and wood. Again, so sorry about the comment, but it has to be said. This seen to be changing at CAF but slowly... precedent is hard to overcome in the buyer's mind.
  4. Loving the design... BUT Cherry is a no-go for me at this price point. Premium price has to call for premium wood: Quality Pear or boxwood. I so sorry to say that, but it is just the reality of thing.
  5. @bnw, this is quite a nice deck planking. Very well done. Would you mind sharing a little bit more on how you made the cutouts in the curved outer plank with such precision? This is something I would like to do... but would like to tap in your experience first.
  6. @GrandpaPhil, a beauty... nice to see you back on the revenge. I stopped mine after the standing rigging but likely will get back to it one day.
  7. Newly requisitioned modeling room.
  8. I'm at a lack of words.... inspiring work. Please, keep maintaining your log with as much detail as possible. This can act as tutorial for many of us.
  9. Hello @MintGum, the last few ships I was doing calculation manually... but like I say before this tool could both ease the process as well as provide more accuracy. Now the PLEASE excuse the beginner question: What is the purpose of the first page, the tick strip? I'm not quite clear about it. I must be missing something obvious. EDIT: To mark the frames... I knew it was obvious! A night sleep make wonder.
  10. This indeed look quite useful. The printable template is a good idea to transfer the shape/bevel to the strip. Will definitively try it out. Thanks!
  11. Hello all, I'm an absolute beginner at basic wood working. So please excuse this basic question. Your help is greatly appreciated. I would like to purchase the Byrnes mini saw. However, before I make the purchase, I would like to get a good idea what I'm getting into... or simply outsource it. The main need initially would be making strips at 1-2 mm thick and from 1-5 mm wide (pear, boxwood, mahogany, etc.). How do you even get started with stock lumber? how it is it cut precisely without saw mark and perfect thickness/wideness. Is there a very good tutorial, written and/or video? What are the tricks and the difficulties?
  12. Greeting, first off: nice model. It looks fantastic. You should be proud... will be a nice display piece. Personally, I would not bother using the jig for the shrouds/ratline. It looks easier, faster and more accurate... but it is not. Setting them up to the ship will be a nightmare. Most people DON"T recommend using this type of jig. I would rather set the shrouds one by one (will look better) directly on the ship and then make the ratlines. Watch video on how to set it up on the mats. There is a specific order for each shroud (in an alternating pattern), so it flow nicely from the mat to the deadeye. Here a link to a tutorial. Rigging is an integral part of modeling sail ship... can be fun to do properly. HEY! you will get another set of skills to your repertoire. (1) HOW TO START STANDING RIGGING CORRECT | Ships of Scale Note: picture is a close-up. The rope is ~1.5-2mm. The ratlines are far better done after you set the shrouds. I would do it the classical way, using clove hitch knots. At first it is intimidating... but soon it will go as a breeze. Remember after a dozen or so, you will get the hang of it. After, few hundred knots... you could do it while watching TV. A few thousand later, while you sleep. Seriously, it gets that easy. Just take you time.
  13. @Snug Harbor Johnny, thanks a lot for the input. I was guessing than the answer would be more complicated. Therefore, I should not dismiss one approach or another summarily. Thanks for that, I will try to research a tad more for a given ship in question. That kind of data thought don't seen to be often available. @wefalck, LOL indeed this is a very long timeframe. Sorry about that. I should had written "in general".
  14. @chris watton, Greetings Chris. To start, I want to thank you for your presence here and all your wonderful ship design. As kit manufacturer, you are really raising the bar in quality and materials. Since your old Amati Revenge design, which I built... I'm a fan! I do have a question for you, and it is ok if you don't want to disclose anything at the moment. My current phase in model building is POF. Far more complex (for me), allows to represent the frames and interior fatefully and just look nice. Unfortunately, there is very little option in this area beside scratch built. I see on Chuck's web site that the Ketch Rigged Sloop may be produced by Vanguard Models. Are you planning the POF version? Do you have any idea of the potential timeframe?
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