Loracs
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: 23ft Launch (1785) by Arthur Goulart
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Loracs started following 23ft Launch (1785) by Arthur Goulart
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EspenT reacted to a post in a topic: Bireme by Loracs - Amati - 1:35 - Greek Warship c.480 B.C.
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Bireme by Loracs - Amati - 1:35 - Greek Warship c.480 B.C.
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Bireme by Loracs - Amati - 1:35 - Greek Warship c.480 B.C.
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Bireme by Loracs - Amati - 1:35 - Greek Warship c.480 B.C.
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Ronald-V reacted to a post in a topic: Bireme by Loracs - Amati - 1:35 - Greek Warship c.480 B.C.
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JacquesCousteau reacted to a post in a topic: Bireme by Loracs - Amati - 1:35 - Greek Warship c.480 B.C.
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GrandpaPhil reacted to a post in a topic: Bireme by Loracs - Amati - 1:35 - Greek Warship c.480 B.C.
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GrandpaPhil reacted to a post in a topic: Bireme by Loracs - Amati - 1:35 - Greek Warship c.480 B.C.
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JacquesCousteau reacted to a post in a topic: Bireme by Loracs - Amati - 1:35 - Greek Warship c.480 B.C.
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Final update: Completed the build by adding a few accessories and temporary rigging. I'm not sure if I will be adding the 42 paddles. Let's say that the ship was "converted" into a transport and/or reconnaissance ship. This little ship will travel with me at Christmas as a gift. Will set up the final rigging then. Hope you enjoy. It's always fun to do those weekly updates. Short term, I will be returning to "The Revenge" to complete the build with the addition of the sails.
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Loracs reacted to a post in a topic: Oryol 1902 by GrandpaPhil - Orel - 1/200 - CARD - Russian Battleship
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Loracs reacted to a post in a topic: Oryol 1902 by GrandpaPhil - Orel - 1/200 - CARD - Russian Battleship
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Loracs reacted to a post in a topic: Oryol 1902 by GrandpaPhil - Orel - 1/200 - CARD - Russian Battleship
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Deck: The deck is finally completed. The kit supplies little to build the floor-doors. I designed it a little differently. First, the frame is built using T-shaped strips (2x2 mm strips glued over a 3.25mm strips). This creates the little space around the doors that I was looking to achieve, as well as a recessed layout. Metal RAM: the copper is starting to oxidize slowly, which is a little bit more realistic. That's all for this week.
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Loracs reacted to a post in a topic: Ultimation Slicer, Sander and Repeater
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Loracs reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Sphinx 1775 by Ronald-V - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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The caulking is just perfect like this... well done. With the length of time it takes to complete a ship, it often almost irresistible to have a peak at the final result. I time, I even finish a section if I know there is no more work to be done. Fantastic deck, well worth the time. New tools!!! come on... I don't have those, please stop teasing!! Hehe 🤩
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Hull: closing the gap, a little more, done! I really like the mix and match color pattern. A beauty in its own right. Dozens of color variations. This is the advantage of planking at 15-20' length or 10-12 cm/plank. Stern: only a few words can truly summarize the experience: Holy @#$@@ #$#$#@@@!! Special mention: the Ultimation slicer is really worth it. Accurate and reproducible cuts. The blade is so sharp... and stays sharp. I'm really liking it. For me, it was worth the price if you are planning on multiple ships. Who among us is not!
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I thought that this build (a planned gift to my father) would be a quick but interesting one. Still quite fun to do BUT it is indeed nothing close to a quick build. If you are not careful the nice lines can turn awful very fast. It is indeed a tricky planking exercise, with the drawback that you have virtually no documentation or any guides from the kit itself. Not much repetition... it always keeps you on your toes. A lot of planks spilling, curving (with and again the grains) and shaping.
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Seats: reading about the greek bireme and trireme, I noted a mention that the seats were likely covered with leather to minimize blisters. That makes sense to me and went ahead and added small leather patches to the interior seats. Stern: side curving of 3mm strips only brings you so far. As you plank inwards the curvature increases and there is no way to keep up. I had to come up with a plan B. I started spilling the planks. Being smaller in width, it can be curved more aggressively. General planking: The difficulty of this build is the sharp edges in many areas. In other words, how to get clean results at the junction. To address this, I always start a new area by "framing" it. Then you have a guide for the remainder.
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very nice... I love the look of it. It all worth the stress of the redo. In fact, I like it so much that I want to incorporate the technique is my next build. Question: In practice, how do you carve the donor and receiving strips, so that it aligns so well at the join. Just want to learn from the expert ;_)
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Planking the bow, stern, starboard and port: I started with the bow and stern since they are by far the hardest area. There is no trick here, just careful shaping of the strips and some re-adjustment (sanding) of the balsa underneath. Speed of planking in those areas crawls down to an average of 2 planks a day... ouch! Stern still needs more love, but shaping those strips is... not fun. Starboard and port side, on the other end, allow me to do some relaxing planking. However, there is a little twist. The bulkhead-ends are a little too narrow to support a full 3 strips. In addition, the underside was a little short, while the upper part a little too long for smooth planking. Solution, I sanded the ends of the bulkheads at a slight inward angle (see picture) - likely a 10-degree angle.
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