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marktiedens
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marktiedens reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
a little update.....
the first of the 458 hull`s portholes are put on, and before that the areas were painted...
These close ups really don`nt hide anything
Nils
the most left one is the tube bushing for the aft anchor chain
the upper forecastle portholes between the rails
twenty of them on each side
The plugged off two porthole in the third line from the top were due to misaligned drilling
poop deck portholes
upper hull portholes on white background strip, under the promenade deck
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marktiedens got a reaction from mtaylor in Vasa by RobZorba - Billing Boats - 1:75
Don`t feel too bad - the Corel kit has the same problem . You are doing a fine job.
Mark
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marktiedens got a reaction from mtaylor in Vasa by RobZorba - Billing Boats - 1:75
I have not made any ships for sale - I can`t even give them away,let alone sell them. Sorry, I cannot advise you on this.
Mark
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marktiedens got a reaction from mtaylor in Vasa by RobZorba - Billing Boats - 1:75
You may want to browse through the Vasa forum - there are some really nice builds there & you can ask questions about the ship directly to Fred Hocker,who is the director of research at the museum.
http://warshipvasa.freeforums.net/
Mark
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marktiedens got a reaction from md1400cs in Wasa by fmodajr - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi Frank - outstanding work on those sails.
Mark
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marktiedens got a reaction from fmodajr in Wasa by fmodajr - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi Frank - outstanding work on those sails.
Mark
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marktiedens got a reaction from GLakie in Wasa by fmodajr - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi Frank - outstanding work on those sails.
Mark
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marktiedens reacted to Piet in Surabaya by Piet - 1/80 - Mid 17th-Century VOC ship
Hello everyone and thank you all for visiting my shipyard and liking what I'm doing.
Been busy with stropping the 64 pulley blocks for the 8 deck cannons. Well, besides that I also had to do some work in the yard and a little goofing off
I'm also working on another project that'll be disclosed when I'm good and ready
Just to let all yuns know that all 64 pulley blocks are now done and ready for the strips to be blackened. Ten the blocks need to be stained after which I can start ligging them with the ropes.
Seems like not much done but these little buggers take a lot of time, especially when you have to undue 32 straps because me dummy put them on the wrong blocks Oh well, just a bunch of hours waisted with some more brass wire.
The blackening stuff I have didn't do squat blackening the brass. It did the solder though. I aint going to order and wait for new stuff so I'll be using a paint brush and flat black paint. Wish me luck. Fortunately I have rather steady hands and am used to painting small things.
Cheers,
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marktiedens reacted to fmodajr in Wasa by fmodajr - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hello,
I have been working on the bowsprit topsail.
When I made the sail, I cutoff about 1/3 of the sail so that it would furl better.
However, I think I should have cut off about 1/2 of the sail instead. (this sail is unusually large compared to the yard) When I furled this sail, it still looks a little too bulky.
Oh well! I am pretty sure that when I put tension on all the running rigging attached to this sail I will be able to flatten it some more. We'll see.
Sail mounted onto yard.
Blocks and rigging added to sail
Sail and halliard rigged to platform
Finished foremast topgallant stay mounted to foremast and bowsprit platform
Blackened brass fittings rigged and mounted under platform
View of ship status so far.
Next I will be finishing the standing rigging from the bowsprit mast to the foremast lower stay.
Then I will work on attaching and mounting the spritsail.
Thanks for visiting and for the "likes"!
Frank
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marktiedens reacted to mar3kl in Vasa by mar3kl - Billing Boats - scale 1:75
Here are the mainmast shrouds. Very similar to the foremast shrouds; the only difference is an additional single shroud on each side. Technically this should be a single length of rope with an eye splice in the middle to go over the mast. I tried splicing, since the scale rope is laid properly and in theory it's possible. In practice I couldn't do a good enough job, so I just seized a collar of sorts and that looked reasonable.
The shrouds at the top...
And a close-up at the bottom. The deadeyes are stained mahogany so they don't contrast too much with the hull planking. The lanyards are thin rope, not thread. The seizings are ordinary thread, waxed as needed to get rid of stray fibers. The scale rope needs almost no waxing; I'm not sure why, but it's quite nice on its own.
I've left the shroud and the lanyard ends untrimmed. That's because there were several cases where I misjudged the shroud length slightly and without some extra on the ends I would have had to undo the whole shroud rather than just the end. Getting the ends lined up is surprisingly tricky; everything stretches a bit as additional shrouds are set up.
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marktiedens reacted to pirozzi in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
The upper transom balcony bezel with the scroll end windows has been added. Two stantions have beed added to support the long ceiling opening. This is not part of the kit, so I used a couple of 12mm walnut stantions from my stash.
Vince P.
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marktiedens reacted to pirozzi in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
Still working on the transom and stern galleries.
The upper side windows are added and the upper side balconies are compete. One of the side metal decoration strips (the last one) has to be added now and the the side wall of the hull in the area has to be painted black now. The metal strip is painted black and the raised pattern is washed in a gold tinted solution. This actually completes both sides of the galleries right up to the poop deck.
According to the plans, there are no railings whatsoever around the poop deck. With the camber of the deck, the wind at sea, and the rolling of the ship, a sailor would just fall over the side with no support. I am choosing to add side and forward cap railings later on. The bases for the side rails have been added to the deck already.
Vince P.
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marktiedens reacted to cristikc in Sovereign of the Seas by cristikc - Mantua - 1:78 scale
And glue some sticks
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marktiedens reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Thanks for the likes and thanks for dropping by and posting encouraging notes. (;-) Finishing up the fabrication of the foremast platform.
•Trimmed down the lower braces before mounting the first ring
•Then made the bits for the upper ring braces
•Used a divider point to simulate the small nails for the lower braces
•Installed the 18 vertical bits
•Added the rings
•Then with a rotary tool sanded down the protruding edges and tops
+++++++++++++++++++++++
Next up, need to cut the 32 small bits to insert around periphery of the platform. Used the blue tape as a measure guide for all the cuts.
This second platform was easier than the first (bowsprit) I learned through experimenting with the first one. The upper fore, and the three mains should be a smooth build section.
Still mentally thinking of how to insert the shroud deadeyes and keeping the chainplate rope attachments within scale. Still a “?”
I wonder if just wrapping lower the deadeyes in tarred rope and running those eight ropes through the large flat ring would be “OK” ??
However I believe that the last pic IS how it should be Hmmmm
Again, thanks for dropping by.
Michael
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marktiedens reacted to Beef Wellington in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Thanks all for the continued interest and kind words!
The counter planking was put on before the wale could be finished, the ports on the counter took a little time to get right.
I got bogged down completing the wale, the tuck around the counter left me struggling for a bit to figure out how to handle it. The second layer on the wales went on easily enough, except for the challenging lower plank. In the end, to ensure that the regular planking will have an edge to bed against, I ended up cutting a profile in the plank above and champfering it, and then twisting the plank below through 90deg. After shaping this, the outer plank can be installed and shaped. Not very elegant, but was the closest I could get to simulating the real wale.
At the bow, the first walnut planking was thinned before installing the second layer so that the wale would sit in line with the regular planking at the stem. After some finishing, tried the Admiralty ebony stain to see how it does, pretty impressed with the coverage, even with only one application. Some more finishing will be needed but will leave as is for now. As I'll be using paint elsewhere, I'll probably paint over this but can delay that decision for a bit. Beginning to look a little more like a ship now.
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marktiedens reacted to JesseLee in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
Thanks guys. It almost stumped me....... almost
I had these super tiny b brass nails from years ago. I wish I could remember where I got them. There are not enough to finish nailing the gudgeons to the stern. The heads on these are much smaller than anything else I have so I am now in the process of painstakingly filing down bigger nail heads to this much smaller size. Need about 15 more. I think I drilled way too many nail holes.
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marktiedens reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
Update
parts (some) of the decoration for bow and stern..... (first trial...)
Nils
up and in the centre of the golden decoration at stern is the badge with the "Kaiser.Eagle". This is printed in appr. scale on Photopaper, and the badge baseplate is cut out with a hole-punch tool. Because of the rubber plate under the soft anealed brass stockplate the edges become that rounded badge character
a small drop of semi-thickened-viscosity CA mounts the emblem to the badge base, so it looks like a small button
the upper bow decoration gets the mini-badges with the state Bremen`s "Himmelsschlüssel" (sky key), which the NDL line showed on their liners. The metal antique bronze decor base parts will be goldened as well
the little blue "sky key" badges are made in the same way, but smaller in diameter
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marktiedens reacted to mar3kl in Vasa by mar3kl - Billing Boats - scale 1:75
It's quite puzzling. I don't know how you'd run the lanyard either, hence the question. And why would you bother having a different number of holes anyway - what purpose would it serve?
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marktiedens got a reaction from GLakie in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi Michael - do you know if the fore stay blocks are 4 hole & 6 hole blocks? If they are I guess I missed that one. So hard to find a good close-up of some areas. I can`t tell if Clayton`s is set up that way or not. 99% of the builds I have seen just use 3 hole blocks. Maybe another simplification by Corel .
Mark
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marktiedens got a reaction from medic in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
A little update - I got the stern & bow filler blocks shaped & bulkhead edges beveled in preparation for the first planking. Also added a support on the lower gun deck for the mizzen mast. I will fasten the keel & stem before planking - have always done it that way. I will plank from the main deck level down to the lower gun deck so I can locate the openings for the gun ports following the lead by Vince P on his RW build. I also tapered the stern keel former down to 5mm so the planking will go up against the keel properly.
Mark
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marktiedens got a reaction from canoe21 in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
A little update - I got the stern & bow filler blocks shaped & bulkhead edges beveled in preparation for the first planking. Also added a support on the lower gun deck for the mizzen mast. I will fasten the keel & stem before planking - have always done it that way. I will plank from the main deck level down to the lower gun deck so I can locate the openings for the gun ports following the lead by Vince P on his RW build. I also tapered the stern keel former down to 5mm so the planking will go up against the keel properly.
Mark
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marktiedens got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
A little update - I got the stern & bow filler blocks shaped & bulkhead edges beveled in preparation for the first planking. Also added a support on the lower gun deck for the mizzen mast. I will fasten the keel & stem before planking - have always done it that way. I will plank from the main deck level down to the lower gun deck so I can locate the openings for the gun ports following the lead by Vince P on his RW build. I also tapered the stern keel former down to 5mm so the planking will go up against the keel properly.
Mark
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marktiedens reacted to md1400cs in Vasa by mar3kl - Billing Boats - scale 1:75
Mark,
I found this from Calyton's. Also the Billings rigging sheets show what you have done. Hmmm
OK time for dinner or after all this stress I may first need a cocktail (:-) )
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marktiedens reacted to md1400cs in Vasa by mar3kl - Billing Boats - scale 1:75
Mark,
GOOD eye. Here is an example of a European scratch built. I has sold commercially. This builder seems to be spot on with everything about this ship. I did not notice what you just posted. You are right Clayton's photos are hard so see regarding the lower block. I'm going to "look around" for poss. more info.
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marktiedens got a reaction from md1400cs in Vasa by mar3kl - Billing Boats - scale 1:75
I believe the correct way is to use 2 large 3 hole blocks as in this picture.
Mark
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