marktiedens

Thanks Michael.now for a little update.Chainplates done & installed.I fastened the channels just above the wales instead of on top of them otherwise the chainplates would be too short.Did not think ahead far enough as usual .
 

 

 

 
Mark

Thanks Michael.now for a little update.Chainplates done & installed.I fastened the channels just above the wales instead of on top of them otherwise the chainplates would be too short.Did not think ahead far enough as usual .
 

 

 

 
Mark

Hi everyone,
 
Well this update makes me very happy. It highlights my first attempt at using the Proxxon MF 70.
 
Challenge: As noted in the just previous post, I did not add two long trim pieces that would then secure the mizzen mast chainplates on each side of the hull just above the lower galleries.  The first two pics of the 1/10th(yellow trims) highlight what I need to accomplish.
 
The big conundrum was how could I add the grooves that run along those two pieces using the MF 70. The pics below illustrate my solution.
 
I used a balsa block as a guide for the strips. Balsa seemed the best because I could run a very tight groove as the two strips were being pulled through, and the balsa would "give a little" but keep the strips straight. 
 
I then cut another wider upper gap trench in the balsa block favoring one side because when I would run the strips through, the needed groove was not in the center. You can note this in the 1/10th pics.
 
After attaching the groove bit, I tried a couple of sample strips. Didn't want to go too deep and then end up cracking the trim pieces, as they will need to be bend slightly to follow along the hull lines.
 
Well I'm really happy about how this turned out. This MF 70 will be a huge asset for improving my skills. I'm also super happy with how tight the Proxxon tolerances are; very slight two or three millimeter adjustments in the X Y Z axis created adjustments just where I wanted the bit to bite. Five stars for this tool.
 
Now a bit more detailing, sanding, adding nail holes, painting and installing the strips, and I can move forward with part two of the chainplates.
 
A bit wordy, this post, but I'm like a child with a new toy. (:-) This first use of the tool was very basic, but swimming always starts at the shallow end. Thanks for looking in.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Thanks Michael.now for a little update.Chainplates done & installed.I fastened the channels just above the wales instead of on top of them otherwise the chainplates would be too short.Did not think ahead far enough as usual .
 

 

 

 
Mark

Thanks Michael.now for a little update.Chainplates done & installed.I fastened the channels just above the wales instead of on top of them otherwise the chainplates would be too short.Did not think ahead far enough as usual .
 

 

 

 
Mark

Mark,
 
Thanks. I know that you spent a lot of time with those railings, My mindset was that it was with the milling tool. However your time sure was well spent those metal railings they look so original to the 1:1. Didn't know about all of that plywood, sort of cost cutting on their part .Too bad.
 
But, your build sure is coming out beautifully.
 
Michael

There is a store in my area called The Woodsmith Store.they have a fair selection of birch & walnut dowels although I could not find them on their website.They also have a good selection of exotic woods.
 
Mark

Hi Everyone,
 
revised posting  from yesterday's 
 
Part 1 of 2; chain-plate installations.
 
Nothing new here, I've mirrored how most of you install these when there are no bracing timbers above or below the plates. In regard to this build there is, of course, an other error.
 
The chain-plates, above the galleries, are to be attached to the hull upon, or just below large longitudinal timbers that run the length of the upper outer hull. I did not install these on each side. In deference to Corel their instructions were correct, I just missed it. I have an idea for a fix.
 
Again, thanks to all of you for spending time here.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Here are the top planks and the side ledges in place. Next up are the vertical "floor" planks. The original have them quite wonky and Im gonna try to imitate that look.
 
 
/Matti

Not an update, but my favorite son (we only have one child) got his dad an early Christmas present. It showed up yesterday. Hmmmm so happy. I think that my need for tools is over, now just more ships (:-) Presently working on the Vasa chain plates.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Cont'
 
 
 




For the head and foot, I used balsa block to shape them. I think there is certainly better wood for it, but balsa is the current wood material I have enough to build them. 
 


Now, the head on the stern gallery is added. Again, to ease my work I removed the club shape on the head, and made it smooth instead.
 


By using leftover wood from the stern filler, I added them at the bottom. That little curve might help designing my gallery
 


And again, plank them all using 0.2mm x 4mm walnut strips which left from my Pearl.
 


Up till now, it's already a week. 
When every piece is glue, it looks like this. Anyway, it's still not glued to the ship.
 

 
 
After painting...
 


Now it's time to add the white border line to the gallery. By using unused (due to modification) 2mm x 5mm walnut strip from the kit, I profiled a 'U' shape it like what we can see on the Trincomalee.
 


So, this is now the gallery looks like now.  

I'm running out of extra wood strips and couldn't continue already. Anyway, I've just placed an order from CMB and it might take around 2 weeks to reach Malaysia. I also included some cast metal of Amati, which at least looks better than the Corel kit ones in the website. Let's hope for the best!

Whilst waiting, I'll continue on the bulwark planking and other fittings first.

Thanks for viewing!

Good work!As you know my kit came with this thingy but I still haven`t figured out what it is .Might be some kind of fish or maybe a mermaid?

Insprired by Michael (md1400cs) I have made two rope blocks that are placed on the weather deck. I used my milling machine to make the grooves. I added only a brass axis inside of them and no pulleys, as it will function like this as well. It took some filing to fit them between the railings.


 
I have been working on the gun ports. I decided to not use the lids that came with the ship, but made them myself. From 5 mm beams I made beams of 10 mm by glueing them together. Then sawing them into pieces of 10x11 mm. Next I made from very thin wood the red inserts of 9x8 mm. I painted the hinges into metal color and painted the lion heads as well. In the photo there are only 47 gun port lids. I missed three sets of hinges, which I ordered now.
Next will be to attach them to the ship...

Some Progress:
Completed Port Rail and inner Bulwark

Michael - I will try to explain a little better.In the first picture the chainplates & strops are as they came out of the package as you already know.On the right side of the picture is how they look after simply bending them with a very thin tipped needle nose pliers & a little swearing .My last post was the 5mm mizzen deadeyes.This picture is of the 7mm deadeyes.The 5mm chainplates came out just the right length but the 7mm chainplates as you can see had 2 nailing holes & were too long.They came out about the right length after cutting the lower hole off.
 

 
The next picture is after inserting the deadeye & bending over the small loop on the end of the chainplate.
 

 
The next picture is after securing with a drop of solder & bending to about the right shape.
 
The next picture is after filing off the sharp points at the nailing end of the chainplate.
 

 
Now all that`s left to do is paint them black.I was fortunate that my kit came with the correctly shaped triangular deadeyes although the bad part is the holes in most of the deadeyes are drilled way off center  .I hope this explains it a little better.
 
regards,Mark

My Sergal kit has this casting but I still don`t know what it is supposed to be so I just painted it about the right color.
 

 
Also got my upper deck cannons done.
 

 
I have been having problems getting pictures uploaded recently so I hope they came through ok.Keep getting error messages.

Hello all,
 
Ever wanted to know what kits are available for 17th Century British Frigates?
 
How about what kits are beginner and which kits are advanced?
 
Worried about space and want an easy way to find out what ships are available which are a certain 
lenght or height?
 
 
Read on my friends, read on!
 
Since joining Model Ship World, I have continuously been impressed with the quality of its members and the level of help people get with their hobby.  It is incredibly refreshing to find a place where people of all skill levels and interests, from all over the world, can come together in one place and help, encourage and applaud the wonderful works which can be found from its members new and old.
 
There is one trend I have noticed, with regards to questions and requests for advice, and that is related to the kits themselves.  Questions regarding quality of kits, availability, types, subjects and overall level of difficulty.
 
We have great resources for that, several articles, build logs etc.;  but I got to thinking it may be helpful to have this information in one place.  Not to replace what is on MSW in its various forms, but to supplement it.
 
While not an expert modeler by any means yet, I am a code jockey =) and enjoy doing techy codey things (that is a technical term by the way), so I decided to try to put that to use.
 
This is to announce a project which I am working on and am making available as of tonight.
 
The Model Ship World Ship Kit Database
 
What is it?
 
Well, it is a database of Model Ship Kits.  A central repository for what is available out there along with as much data regarding each kit as I can scrape up.
 
Secondly, Model Ship World Ship Kit Database is a living project.  This basically means it is intended to grow and expand based on feedback and contribution from the model ship world membership.
 
What does it do?
 
Right now, it allows you folks to search for ships.   As of this evening you can search for available ships based on Manufacturer, Scale, Type of Kit, Type of Ship, Period of Ship and the Ships Nation of origin.
 
You can search for these ships based on one of the above criteria or build out the criteria to get as refined a search as you want.
 
So, for example, if you want to see all the ships Model Shipways Currently has available – you can do that.
 
If you want to find all the ship kits which are 19th Century French 1:64th scale Plank on Bulkhead Frigates – you can do that too.
 
Is that all that it does?
 
As of this evening, yes it does.  Is that all it will do? No.    I actually have big plans for this and was going to wait to announce it until much more was done.  However it will take a little time to get everything in so I wanted to “release” it in stages.  Mainly to get it out there and let people get some hands on it and start giving me feedback.   
 
The idea is to make this as useful to the MSW community as possible.  I think it is in a good starting point, but really want to hear from you guys regarding it so I can develop it over time to make it as great as it can be.
 
I can’t promise all suggestions will make it in, or that they will go in overnight, but this in my mind is for MSW so I look forward to collaboration and the discussions to do as best we can.
 
Where does it stand right now?
 
Currently I have identified the following manufacturers for inclusion in the database.  Some have their kits added while others are queued to be completed over the next week or so.
A.J Fisher: Data not started Artesania Latina: Data started, 80% complete Billings: Data not started Bluejacket Ship Crafters Inc.: Data Complete Caldecraft:Data not started Corel:Data not started Constructo:Data not started Dusek:Data not started Mamonli:Data started, test entries only Mantua Models UK:Data not started Midwest Prouducts:Data Complete Model Shipways:Data Complete OcCre: Data started, test entries only.  
You said there was a lot planned so what else is there?
 
I am so glad you asked
 
Not only is this meant to be a list of what is available but it is also a place where people can come and find out about the ships.   Here is what is on deck....
More refined filter parameters: Ability to filter on length and height Ability to filter on skill level General Search:  Ability to type part of a kit name and search for all related kits. Data page:   This will be a drill down into the kit including a picture of the kit completed and important details regarding the kit itself. Some of what is currently in the data view will be moved here to make the data view a little less cluttered. Reviews: The ability for those of you who have built some of these kits can review them for others.  The reviews will have scales for the quality of materials, documentation and plans as well as a way to rate the kit for accuracy and skill level.   It is one thing for the manufacturers to say it, it is more meaningful when those who actually have worked with it say it. Links to related build logs.   Just another way for the MSW to find build logs related to their ships or for people to get a preview of what they may be in for. Manufacturer Data Page:  Just a quick data sheet on the company itself, where it is, contact information etc etc. Search launch:  A simple mechanism for people who may have found a ship they are interested in to one click google search for the kit in question. That is what I have on my list, the best part (as is usually the case) what comes out of the community.
 
As I mentioned, my hopes is this becomes a think tank project and grows from ideas provided by the MSW Community.
 
Why announce it with so much more to do?
 
  Feedback. 
 
Like it, Love it, Hate it I can take it; let me know.  
 
Whether you like it or not; let me know.   What people like I will continue with and what they don’t I will try to change so that they do,  but I can’t unless I know.
 
I can promise to take all suggestions and comments under consideration, but can’t promise all will be done.  
 
I will do my best to address concerns and questions as quickly as possible; after all if you take the time to lend a suggestion I can at least take the time to acknowledge it =)
 
My only goal is to make this as useful as possible and make it a solid resource for the Model Ship World community.
 
We can use this thread (I think) as the think tank for this project.   I will post updates to the database as I do them as well as keep a running list of ideas and where I may be at with them.
 
Where is this database hosted? I see it doesn’t have an MSW domain.
 
This is true,
 
this project is hosted on my own hosting service. 
 
I have been using them for quite some time and have not had any issues so am fairly confident it will have acceptable uptime for us to use this. 
 
The ampitcher.com well, ampitcher is me =)  
 
There is no link behind the scenes to MSW so your MSW information is safe, and this database does not require any sensitive information for you to access it.  If you have any concerns please PM Me I will be glad to address them.
 
This is however an MSW resource, meaning I am doing this for MSW and the MSW community. 
 
People from the outside may find it in a search or what not, but all efforts are to grow from within MSW and to drive TO MSW from the outside. =)
 
Anything we can do right now to help?
 
Kit companies and information
 
I have several in there (see list above) but I know there are more.   If you see any companies that are missing please let me know.  Right now I am focused on wood kits, but will be adding in plastic and card shortly.
 
Likewise, while in the database you will see many entries have blank data.  This is because of one of several things; either I could not find it, couldn’t figure it out or had conflicting information so wasn’t sure what to put.  
 
IF anyone has any knowledge they can lend me towards those empty slots please PM me with ID (first column) and the information.  I will edit them asap!  And thank you heartily!! =)
 
Well, I think I rambled on enough.   
 
Here is the link to the database.  
 
http://mswshipkits.ampitcher.com/
 
Take a look, let me know what you think and I want to thank you for your time.  
 
Updates will be coming so stay tuned!
 
For now, if we can limit data error information to PM and leave the forum topic for discussion related to the database, new ideas, feedback and updates – it would be appreciated!!
 
Thank you again, hope you like it and looking forward to creating the best model ship database on the web – with your help I know we can do it!!
 
As always
ENJOY!!
 
 

Bill, the royal ships were not just warships but also floating palaces used as symbols of power and for propaganda. The red was a royal color and at the time where she was built, bright colors were used by the powerful and the aesthetics was in the style of north german renaissance. I think its beautyful.
 
Phil, Im not sure about your model, but the local hobbyshop had a really old Vasa model and I think it was a BB. It was from before they knew how she looked. You couldnt tell it was Vasa, but more a generic model of the ships from that time. It was about 50 cm. I cant tell if thats the same as yours, but if it is I would have made it a generic ship.
 
Last week Ive been working on some sculptues. It took time to get them to get a good fit, thank good its plastic, as it allows for easy shaping. I have also made the knights cloaks and swords out of thin styrene sheet.
 
Now its time to start with the emperors.
 
 
/Matti

Hull Painting

The whole painting process has been uncertain, and it ends up to a result not even close to my previous planning.

After a real lot of times of painting and sanding and painting and sanding and painting and sanding, this is what I end up to.. An 1824 HMS Unicorn colour scheme.
 

 
 

 
Comparing to the real ship.. which is quite close to USS Constitution and HMS Trincomalee also
 
I always think that showing the natural wood colour will be best for this ship, but due to my hull planking mistakes I'll really need to use dark colour to cover those errors.

Here shows the progress:

Hull is painted to white as previously planned. Around 6-7 layers are applied.
 


A thick black wale is added by using 4 x 4mm black wood strips, and the 'nose' is painted to black too. Anyway, when I wanted to paint the gun port area, the yellow paint that I bought couldn't paste on the wood equally, and caused all the clouds and prints all over the area. I sanded and repainted, but still return the same result. So, I thought of changing a colour scheme...  
 

 
I found that the 1846 HMS Unicorn would be nice to follow too, so I started to work it out on port side. I started by extending the wale area, so that it's touching the waterline; and narrowed the gun port area down to the height of gun port.

 

 
Here's how it turned out. At this point, I still couldn't get a good mix of red ocher.
 

 
Two-face
 

 
I searched through my store room, and thank God there is still a unopened of red ocher paint in it I applied 2 layers on it.
 

 
When I was think about what modification should I do to the bow, I found another inaccurate plan about this kit. The bow that showing on the box is different from the instruction plan. As you can see, there are actually 2 gun port lids instead of the ladders. I'm currently planning to follow this one.  
 

 
Anyway, after long hours and days of working on the colour scheme... I've finally done it. Although it's not the scheme that I want the most, but this is the best result I can get.
 

 
I will continue on the beakhead and stern modification next.
 
Thanks for viewing. ^^

Nigel,
 
Thanks for your nice thoughts. Yes you are right a milling machine is a must. As can be seen the block grooves are a bit sloppy, as I was running the drill back and forth by hand. Now that I am much more serious, and passionate about this hobby, slowly tools are "showing up" (:-)
 
Here are pics of my small work area. I took over our departed son's room (he lives in S. Francisco), it has become my hobby room. The last pic is what is really needed. It's on my Amazon cart, but I will need at least two very copious portions of Lagavulin 16, neat- before clicking "buy" PS: the Best of the smoky's. A bit north of your neck of the woods, but for Scotch Hmmmm the choices you have in the UK are wonderful. I remember Oddbins (:-) 
 
As always, thanks for your stopping by.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hello everyone,
 
 
A minor very tiny update, but one that I am actually comfortable with, this one is peaceful for me. It was small but rather labor intensive, as it took several attempts to get "ok".
 
From the first 1/10th pic, I wanted to add these two rope blocks with three pulleys to my weather deck. Below was my solution. The pics are self-explanatory so I won't drone on. A couple of points to note;
 
1) That second drill bit is the one that goes sideways to make trenches (name escapes me)
 
2) I used small cannon rigging blocks to simulate the pulleys within the wood blocks. As you note, I cut them in half and rounded them off. They are a bit oval purposefully.  Once inserted, they didn't crowd the edges within the main block, allowing for rope (I don't plan to add sails (at this point) so these two blocks are just to add detail. I was going to add those small block nails as seen on the 1/10th. Since my build is lacking those in so many places, I skipped that effort.
 
Next up will be to drill all cannon doors hinge, and rope holes. I won't share that (:-), and then on to the ratline hull braces. Looking forward to those.
As usual thanks so much for dropping in, so appreciated.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 
 
 

BassicBill, sorry about the slow response, my internet has been out since yesterday.  I just went and snapped a couple of pictures of the old girl, she got knocked around pretty good on my cross country move and I have repaired her yet.  shame on me.  but here a couple of pics.

Maybe following will help. There is also a belaying plan on the site
http://www.jans-sajt.se/

Hello Michael
 
Lawrence is absolutely right about the victory - somewhat harder because of all the photo etched parts but in some ways easier because there is a lot fewer things you have to "fix" compared to the Wasa kits - at least in the Caldercraft version.Have also done the SoS - no harder than the Vasa i`m currently working on although I did not modify it from the kit.
 
Mark

After careful analysis of the data presented, it would appear that an alternative conclusion may also prove viable.  Specifically, the glue joints in each case are stronger than the wood itself.  It is suggested that further experimentation be conducted to determine the strength of the joints in the tension, rather than in the shear,  mode.  This might best be accomplished with the use of either an 'Instron' device or the application of opposing forces using two identical teams of draught horses
 
Pending the publication of the results of the modified experimental design, I shall continue to get the 'brown stuff' off prior to gluing