marktiedens

Figure 111: First brake shoe installed. When installed it swings freely on the bolt. I used superglue to fix it in position, just as close and parallel to the wheel. 
 
The brake shoes on the outer side are rather easy to install. However those on the inner parts are very very tricky to even fit at first place, let alone insert the bolt, tighten the nut and glue to the right position. My recommendation to a builder reading these pages would be to consider installing the brake shoes before installing the wheels. 
 

 
 
That's all for today!
Thanks for watching! 
 

I'm resurrecting the Renault thread as I start the second of the two models included in the kit. The Montrose base paint is drying and the corvette is on hold awaiting supplies. FedEx finally coughed up the package of paints after giving it a tour of the South East and when I opened it there was no hull red; the most critical paint needed. Apparently it was out of stock. Sigh. So another order was sent to the nice people at Spruebrothers and while I wait I decided to try another Renault light tank.
The basic assemblies have been completed and the primer has been sprayed on. These Flyhawk kits are really very nice light relief between the bigger efforts although the paint schemes are challenging.  I had planned to use the French Tigre scheme but I'm looking at the FTs in Polish service too. This one will have the 37mm gun and the early wheels. A nice touch; Flyhawk moulded the gun barrel with a hollow in the business end.

 

Thanks for looking
 
Alan

Almost done now. Needs anchors and chains, outer railings, and a little weathering.
 

Not much to report as have had "other" things going on.   I am working still on the skins.  The top ones are in and the lower ones are works in progress.  But then I took a pic today while glue was drying....   title it "you can't have too many clamps".  I don't have enough and the hardware store I visited was out.   

Evening all,   another slight  update  on my 5th Line KGL   -  hands  now painted,  back packs with Grey Coats  and straps,   facings done  and details to the Shako's,   not far to go with these  than I will be back on some more 2nd KGL Light.
 
OC.

thank you comments and likes
 
had a day off yesterday, infact i was doing some jobs for me mum (which basically meant me and the dog were sat in the carpark for 5 hours whilst my wife took her in for appointments
 
any way today i sorted out the centre island and got the derrick area sorted
 
a few photos of my workbench, which i tidied ny before the shots
 

HULL WORK
PAINTING HULL
BUILD MANUAL STEPS 229 - 232
 
 
LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX
 
Tools Used
Craft knife
Waterline marker
Wood filler
Sandpaper (110 and 400 grit)
Titebond original
Varnish
Tape
 
Gathering the materials required
No parts required
 
Assembly Process
After I had added the waterline I applied plenty of tape to the hull, replicating the picture shown on step 230 of the build manual.
 
Using the same Matt Super white paint as shown in the picture for step 231 in the build manual I sprayed a thin coat on the exposed hull. I then spent a lot of time sanding, then applying filler (diluted with water and titebond) to fill any dips and then sanding the filled area smooth. This process was repeated several times.
 
Once I was happy with how the hull was looking I removed the tape from the stem, keel and stern posts below the waterline. A thin coat of varnish was applied to the bare wood areas and the hull was then sprayed a couple more times with the matt super white paint. Due to the dust cloud in the shipyard during the process I did not risk taking pictures. OK I simply forgot to take some pictures😇.
 
As can be seen in the photo below I have actually done a bit more work which will be covered in my next post.
 

Thanks to everyone for the encouraging comments and for the 👍's up.
A little bit of an update, and it looks as though there is going to be some major bashing to fit the cockpit into the fuselage! This is because the cockpit is for the Trumpeter kit and not the Revell🙄
part of the kit had to be pared away to allow the instrument panel piece to fit in.
the underside is causing me a headache as the body of the cockpit prevents the wing assembly to sit in place🤔😶
I'm thinking that the marked area may have to be sacrificed?, but once everything is fitted it won't be noticeable.
If none of this works I'll revert to the kits cockpit 😔
I don't want to do that though as the AF kit looks nice. Anyway I'll let you know what happens. 
Thanks again for visiting 😊
Cheers 

par-don yet again..........grilled supper,  but got tied into a movie while I ate.   blame it on Vin Diesel    the guy doing the drum roll on this big reveal is very happy to see me.......ok.......you can stop now    now......this starts out with the car showing her bad side.  the body is back together,  but when I went to fit the front bumper,  I found that the halves weren't matched up correctly.  so I had to split the halves apart again and refit them,  so the bumper would line up.  touch ups have been done.

it looks terrible now,  but along the sides,  a long chrome strip goes on from front to back....both bumpers have to line up.  as you can see,  I have the front bumper in place already.

I decanted some of the paint,  to paint the undersides of the headlight tunnels.  I focused on the gaps I saw when I did the last dry fit to the rear bumper.

I found that the chrome strip will cover over it,  so I need not be concerned.  so that the chrome strips will fit flush to the body line,  I sanded the mating line from front to back......made it look even worse.

I did some chroming to the canopy........

I may go around the base of it.......still to be done.   the chrome strips actually went on pretty well.......I used CA to cement them in place.  this is one of the few times I've actually used  CA on plastic.

 

and the rear bumper is in place now.  I was in the process of digging up some deeper red for the tail lights.   not much more to go  

the steering wheel is nearby......I painted around the rim of it.   more soon......
 

I did some work during my work week.........surprisingly {wonders never cease}.  I need to fit the rest of the windows,  so I can paint the entire lot.  still flip flopp'in on the color,  so while I was cutting the windows out of the powerhouse walls,  I can bat it around in my head.  the templates that I cut out don't match the size of the wall billets,  which the outer wall is already done in a brick motif.  I decided not to downsize the overall size of the building,  but drop the height..........about 10 mm should be good.   I was also going to leave the walls and scratch build the eaves and pitched roof,  but I ended up pitching the roof using this 10 mm spec,  leaving enough to box in the soffits.  the back wall has no windows........the side walls are identical......only the front wall has a door {so much for fire codes}.  I thought I had taken some pictures of the assembly.....but I thought wrong.

 

the corners will have moldings to hide the bare wood.......I painted up some .5 x 3 mm strip stock to cover them.   wish I had 2 mm,  but this is all I got at this point in time.  I added some form of framing inside to help strengthen the structure.  with all the windows and doors cut and delegated,  I can paint them........I went with a dark gray.

the kit did not supply anything for the glass,  so now the question is,  whether to use that tinted cello I have on hand,  or use clear stuff {which I also have plenty}.  I find that today's clear product packaging does a great deed to keep me well stocked {and in different thicknesses too}.  I also ordered an assortment of windows from Micro Mark, produced by Tichy.......I'll show you what they look like in the next update......they are pretty cool  unlike the boiler house,  I decided to drop a floor in there for the second level.   this kinda forces my hand......now it is likely that I will do it for the boiler house.   the last thing I did before we had to go out again,  was to add the side sills for the rafters and A frames,  which will be likely from scratch as well.

hope to get more done.......I'm on the week end  
 

So, without waiting and to verify the parts of Session #2, I could not help  myself and started gluing the central shell piece: 
 

 
The fitting is beautiful and the cuts are perfect. The shell pieces are cut in a 1.5 mm thick plywood, which do marry tenderly the curves of the futtocks. Once completed, this should give us a very nice and solid hull, for planking.
 
Yves

-  SESSION #2  -
 
Before finishing Session #1  completely, I had to have parts from Session #2 and ideally from Session #3. We will get into the details later.
 
Session #2 package was ordered directly from CAF model in Shanghai, apparently. The parcel took close to two weeks to arrive and was severely damaged by water. As you may not know, a lot of China is under the water due to weather manipulations and enormous rains, and people are suffering a lot. My parcel was probably flooded in Shanghai and kept its humidity long enough to develop some mildew.... Session #2 is about $250 plus shipping.
 

 
Fortunately, the content of the kit Session #2 itself, was not damaged by the water since it was protected by a film. On the other hand, all the strips of wood for planking hull and deck soaked all the moisture they could. 
 

 
I have been trying to dry all of them in the best possible way, but a lot will have to be replaced by CAF. I have to say that their packaging was not up to their reputation and that all this disaster could have been avoided if the strips had been stored in a sealed bag. The cherry wood was prone to develop some mildew as you can see below: 
 

 
Tom, from CAF model, indicated that a new set of wood strips will be shipped to me (free of charge) when I purchase Session #3. I have to command his support and responsiveness. His willingness to help is a far departure from the total lack of responses from certain large European kits manufacturers for example.
 
Anyway, despite these "aleas" of the shipping process, Tom included for me two main guns which are no longer sold with Session #2. In the past Session #2 would provide 24 main guns that will be mounted on the Gun Deck. CAF changed their approach and all the guns are now made available in Session #5 (70 guns).
 
Let's take a look at Session #2 and what it offers.
 

 
The main deck, cut on a beautiful 2 mm plywood. Again as in Session #1, we deal with beautiful material, fresh and clean wood, perfectly cut and presented. When I compare the quality of CAF parts with for instance Constructo, I am glad that I am building a kit from CAF.
 
Documentation is again IKEA style, with not enough information.....really not enough.
 

 

 
If we could merge the Chuck Passaro Construction guides with the quality of the CAF models, I do not know a single human being who would not be constructing these kits.
 

 

 

 
And two 30 pounders main guns, finely cast in brass: 
 

 
Yves

So, I have been sanding a lot recently, inhaling the fine powder of cherry wood.....
 

 
As indicated, this is a massive model and quite heavy at that. The reason why the stern is not built yet, is because I am using the last bulkhead #18 for support while sanding the hull vertically. For the time being I am only sanding the futtocks, in preparation for the shells that will be glued with Session #2. The good thing with the charring is that it gives you a nice appreciation of when you have sanded enough....
 

 
The stem remains to be done and there is a lot of work there with possibly the removal of Futtocks #4 and their re-gluing.
 

 

 
The lower portion of the hull (below the water line) is left untouched for now. I will start the sanding and smoothing of it once all the shells pieces have been glued, providing a nice protection for the delicate futtocks.
 

 
Yves

Installation of the dynamo. This part is only on one of the frames.
 
Figure 91: Dynamo is installed using 2 bolts and nuts, which need to be shortened to size (10mm and 7,5mm) and must fit in the dynamo. Well, except once again they don't. Hence, drill. 🤣

 
Figures 92-98: Showing the process of dynamo installation.

 

 

 

 

 

 


That's all for today!
Thanks for watching! 
 
 

Hello, and thank you all for your comments and likes
It took three weeks to dare to paint again, I do not like it very much 😟 But at least it is done. Marc, I hope you sleep better this time 😉
But now it's done and the next thing is to install the gun port lids. 
 

 

 

 

A number of small tasks remain to bring the model to completion.
Finishing Touches…..almost
First up was the installation of the brake pedal and spring mechanism. The spring joins the brake pedal to the seat. The other end of the brake pedal slips over the crossover bar that passes through the bottom of the water box. Once this is in place, the End Caps are added to either side of the crossover bar.
 

 
Then the forward Hose Brackets are added, with the lower ends (complete with faux bolts) attached to the forward end of the water box and aligned with its front edge.
 

 
The next task is to prepare the Head Lamp and Hand Lamp Lenses. These are provided as laser cut clear plastic pieces – four large round ones for the Head Lamp and one smaller round one and two rectangular ones for each of the two Hand Lamps. These all need to be shaped by adding a bevel to the outer edge of all the round lenses and shaping the rectangular lenses to match the contour of the sides of the Hand Lamps. My weapon of choice for this task was a series of sanding sticks. I recently discovered this product from Ultimate Modelling Products called “Thinny Sticks” and they are really good. The have a hard centre core with a softer foam on either side and then the sanding grit on top of that. They also have a shape that provides for a wider end for general work and a thinner end for smaller spaces. I find the shape to particularly good ergonomically too. Each stick has the same grit on both sides and the centre core is colour coded so it’s pretty hard to get mixed up as to which grit you are using. Having used them throughout this build, I can highly recommend them. The grits below are 240 / 400 / 800/ 1200 and then the larger one is a double-sided buffing stick, again colour coded for 3,000 and 12,000. The buffing sticks also come in the same size as the Thinny Sticks. Working through these grits on both the Britannia Metal and the clear plastic, I was able to achieve a mirror finish.
 

 
Here are the round lenses showing on the right after initial shaping with 240 grit and on the left after final buffing. I didn’t feel the need to go as far as polishing compound. The camera doesn’t do the final product justice!
 

 
And here are the rectangular lenses Two untouched lenses on the left, a shaped lens and then a finished lens on the right.
 

 
The Head Lamp lenses were then inserted into the Head Lamp (I used aircraft canopy glue for this to avoid fogging caused by CA), and the Head Lamp epoxied in place on top of the Large Expansion Tank.
 

 
The Large Expansion Tank was then epoxied in place on its supporting bracket. (The whip holder and whip were also added around this time).
 

 
And here are the Hand Lamps temporarily installed. They won’t be fixed in place until the model is finally completed.
 

 
The Spark Arrestor was then added to the Smoke Stack Section and the Smoke Stack Top added to that.
 

 
The Boiler Top was then added to the Boiler Cap Ring:
 

 
And the Smoke Stack assembly placed atop that:
 

 
An almost final task was to add the tires. These are provided as laser cut gasket strips. After cutting the free from the carrier sheet, they only need a light swipe with a 240 grit Thinny Stick to remove the remains of the connecting nubs and then gluing in place around the rims of each wheel. The wheels were removed one at a time for this and the task proved much easier than I first imagined it would be. Once the wheels were replaced, the hub caps were added.
 

 
At this point, I discovered yet another disappointing quality control issue with the provided kit material – the Fire Hoses. These are supposed to be provided in the form of tubular shoelaces. The idea is that the end of the shoelace is opened up to insert the Hose Nozzles before shaping the hoses and attaching them to the model. A neat idea, except that the kit provided shoelaces are not tubular – they are flat, with nothing to open up for the nozzles. This is another of those extremely frustrating and totally unnecessary errors on the part of Model Expo. I now can’t finish the model until I source some sort of suitable replacement, either from Model Expo or elsewhere. I’m also still waiting on the delivery of the part I need to complete the Boiler Water Level Gauge – held up in the postal system at the moment.
 
Other than these two items, the model is complete. I can do nothing now except wait for replacement parts to finish this off. In the meantime, here are some overview pics. I’ll save the final “glam” shots until the model is finally complete.
 

 

 

 
I'll be back when I have some more finishing touches.....
 
 

A little more progress -- wing tips added and one wheel well built and installed. Parts for the second well have been cut out. You can see the rather torturous shape into which the wheel well wall (say that five times fast) must gently be shaped. I only had enough evening modeling mojo to complete one well.
 

Tonite's update.  I appreciate the likes and helpful comments.  Not pulling my hair out yet nor reaching for a stiff adult beverage.  The keel parts have been "skinned" and stern built up with it's skins.   I took some time and removed as much char as I could (stayed in my comfort zone) without overdoing it.  Since I'm not planning on painting the white stuff I thought this would help the appearance.  If Murphy rears his ugly head, I may change my mind.  And yes, there's a few spots where the fairing of the planking went too far and had to be "patched".
 

Building the 2cm flak

Dry test

The Flak and the parts of the turret

Everything is ready to assemble the wheels and tracks

Thanks for following

Planked the sub decks, I had thought about making the false main deck beams from my own Swiss pear to match the other structural parts, but when I saw how beautifully that Chucks laser cut parts fitted I decided to use them and stain to match the boxwood seeing as how those beams will almost be invisible.

Good evening everyone
 
the main mast is now in position, i have placed it earlier than i wanted to, to prove/or not. that the rigging  plans work.
it was def confused dot.com today when i realised not all the back stays go to the same location, 

Work is now complete on chapter eight. This included the making and mounting of the aft riding bitts, mounting of the previously made stove, mounting of the partial bulkhead, mounting of the remaining  focs'l deck beams with their hanging and lodging knees, the mizzen mast partner, and making and installation of the carlings and ledges for both the focs'l and quarterdeck, and the mounting of the cat tails.
 
A lot of tasks done, but mostly straightforwardThe last attached photo shows the overall  current  state of completion. further work will await Chuck's completion of chapter nine and release of it's parts.
 
Bob

All the guns now added, derricks, and deck swastikas.
 

Figure 76: Bogies' frames painted. 
- 1 layer matt black spray primer
- 1 layer matt black spray paint.

 
 

Evening all,  a bit more done this evening  -  Haversacks and water bottles painted,   Grey trousers  done  and  the facings done in Blue.
 
OC.