
marktiedens
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marktiedens reacted to Baker in Flakpanzer T-34(r) by Backer - FINISHED - UM - 1/72 - PLASTIC
Thanks for the nice comments.
Wheels and tracks are in place.
The vinyl tires have one disadvantage. Normally these plastic tracks can be glued with regular plastic glue. Now it is necessary to use CA glue.
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marktiedens reacted to Old Collingwood in Battle of Waterloo Attack on La Haye Sainte Farm by Old Collingwood - 1/56 (28mm)
Evening all, my 5th KGL are now finished - dusted and Flat coated with my sprayer.
OC.
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marktiedens reacted to Landlubber Mike in F4F-4 built as FM-1 Wildcat by Landlubber Mike - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/48
While waiting on paint to dry on other projects, I picked this one back up. I was stuck for a while in trying to figure out how to soften the demarcation between the gull gray and the insignia white. Eventually I tried using blue tack and spraying diluted paint at an angle, but I wasn't too satisfied with how that came out. So, I tried the sponge technique of almost dry brushing using a tiny bit of sponge in between a pair of tweezers, and blotted it down along the long. That worked much better, and so after some touch ups, I sprayed a gloss clear coat and then applied the decals.
The decals are from the Wolfpack wing fold set, and they went down really nicely with really no trace of silvering. I did goof and put the propeller decals on the wrong side of the propeller, so had to use the kit decals. The kit decals had a very thick carrier film, which took a while to settle down with Micro Set and Micro Sol. I'm glad I had the Wolfpack decals as I have a feeling it would have been a real pain to try and get the larger decals down if I was stuck with the kit decals.
One thing I'm kicking myself on is that I cut out the cowl panel that had the cat insignia for VC-12. Pretty funny insignia, though not particularly family friendly. I was originally thinking about making a diorama out of this one and having a mechanic removing one of the panels, but now now I'm leaning towards just finishing it and moving on to something else. So, I might see if I can attach at least one of the panels to the model. It might take a little creativity as the holes I cut are a touch big, so I might need a filler strip, etc. Hopefully something works out.
Next up is another gloss coat, then I will work on panel lines, shading, breaking up the solid colors, etc. I don't think I'll weather this all that much, but might dirty it up a touch. Since it was on a carrier, these planes were generally kept in pretty nice condition.
Thanks for looking in!
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marktiedens reacted to Chuck in HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)
Here is a quick update.
The margin planks on the qdeck and fcastle have been added. The first planks to add are those along the breast beams at the waist. I used a 3/16" x 3/64" strip for this. The overhang edge on both were rounded off. There is only a slight overhang on the breast beams with these plans which should leave you with a nice rabbet on the other side for your deck planking which we will start shortly. The rabbet was about 1/16" wide on the other side.
Fcastle margin planks shown below. Then the templates can be used as a starting point for the actual margin planks. Just like you did for the gundeck below at the bow. Use the template as a guide and starting point to make your margin planks. I cut them from a 3/64" thick sheet. Then I added the waterway along the bulwarks just as we did on the gun deck. I 3/64 x 364 strip was used and one corner was rounded off down its length to create a quarter round profile. Same as for the gun deck....you dont have to create scarph joins if you dont want to. They are tricky. You can simply butt them together if you want to simplify this.
Then the same was repeated on the qdeck. Start with the breast beam plank.....then the waterways can be cut from a 3/64" sheet......and then make the waterway from a 3/64 x 3/64 strip.
Do you guys have any questions????
I thinking I will start on the outside areas of planking before I do the coamings. Just to break up the planking process a bit. Again .....you guys have the templates for lining off. All the deck planks are provided for you on the templates for the fcastle and qdeck. It should go easier than the gun deck.
I will have that done soon and another update.
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marktiedens reacted to CDW in IJN Yamato 1945 by CDW - Pontos - 1:700 Scale - PLASTIC
I was intrigued to learn that Pontos would release their first injection molded kit with a 1:700 scale Yamato 1945 version. When the kit became available through one of my favorite online suppliers, Freetime Hobbies, I grabbed one before they are gone.
The hull is molded in two halves and the plastic looks very sharply detailed, on a par with the best kits out there. Then there is the Pontos magic with a super extensive machined 229 piece brass, and photo etch detail sets as well as a wood deck set. Also included are two full color posters suitable for framing. The instruction booklet is comprehensive, printed in color on heavy gloss paper. Just 47 fun-filled steps will take the builder from start to finish of this epic model in 1:700 scale.
Rather than write a wall of text about this model, let’s just let the photos speak for themselves. If you want one of these, I recommend ordering one post haste as I have a feeling they will quickly become hard to acquire.
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marktiedens reacted to Henke in HMS Agamemnon by Henke - Caldercraft - 1:64
Have been working on bits and pieces over the week. I added gun lids to upper gun deck, some decoration to the quarter gallery and the balcony railing on the stern. The balcony railing was fiddly but finally I got it in place.
Best regards
Henrik
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marktiedens reacted to ccoyle in Nakajima Ki-43 Hayabusa by ccoyle - FINISHED - Orlik - 1/33 - CARD - Japanese Army fighter Allied code name "Oscar"
Whew! Both sides done now. The starboard side, while not a perfect fit, did not require as much surgery as the port side, e.g. no paper mache -- was able to fill in the gaps with glue.
Next step will be the landing gear, then the fuselage will be set aside for a bit to work on the engine and cowling. I love building radial engines out of card stock. 🙄
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marktiedens reacted to Kevin in Phoenix by Kevin - Panart - 1/84 - Ex Amerigo Vespucci - restarted June 2020
good evening everyone
standing rigging continues
new pin rails made up, but over slightly over scale and increased the pin locations from 8 to 19
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marktiedens reacted to Old Collingwood in Battle of Waterloo Attack on La Haye Sainte Farm by Old Collingwood - 1/56 (28mm)
Bit more of an update - Rifles painted and a wash added - just needs some dusting and a flat coat sprayed over them.
OC.
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marktiedens reacted to popeye the sailor in Consolidated B-24D Liberator by popeye the sailor - Revell - 1/72 - PLASTIC
sorry for the delay, but the glass is proving to be more of a problem than I thought. I cleaned them off because I didn't like how they looked and did them again......but came out with the same results. ....just too much bleed under the tape. cleaning them up again, I tried to do them freehand with a fine brush......started out good, but the steady hand waned and ruined the job. a second try gave the same results. through all this, I've been using brake fluid to remove the paint.......so far so good that the parts haven't been affected. the third attempt I decided to try paint pens......bad thing is, I only have silver. it didn't go so well..........so I tossed them back in the brake fluid to remove the paint. for some reason, the paint would not come off.
it took some doing to remove the paint.......a second try was just as bad. I was on the verge of giving up on it, but knowing the model wouldn't look right, I'm going to press on. I'll go back to the tape and hope for the best.........hard to understand.......it worked reasonably well on the other bombers.
I started to play around with the decals.......I decided to go with the red outlined insignias, since they were used for short period in 1943. they would also work well with the color scheme. I have a set with the B 25 decals......but they are 1:48......I can only get away with using two for the fuselage. I have slammer ones for the wings from the Smithsonian kit by Lindberg { something about the sky......forget what the title of the kit was}. the decals looked funky, but I didn't put two and two together till I put one on the wing.........the sheet had been wet at one time and allowed to dry. the decals were so fragile, that lightly rubbing them would cause them to break up on the model!. after removing that mess, I took another pair and sprayed them with decal bonder.......see if that saves the day. I hate to tell the admiral that I need more decals. here are a few pictures of where I am on the model.
thanks all for your interest
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marktiedens reacted to ccoyle in Nakajima Ki-43 Hayabusa by ccoyle - FINISHED - Orlik - 1/33 - CARD - Japanese Army fighter Allied code name "Oscar"
So here's the patch job. I did actually use a kind of paper mache (bits of paper towel soaked in white glue), covered by a bit of spackle, then sanded down. I touched it up a little more after this photo, so it looks better at the moment.
And here's the entire left wing fillet.
Only one more side to do! 🤪
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marktiedens reacted to mtaylor in HMS Sphinx 1775 by mtaylor - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64
Thanks for the comments and likes.
Jacek is correct. I've just finished the first two laser cut/carved pieces. If you'll go to Chris's website, the instruction might still be there to download as a pdf.
Hoarding? Not hardly. LOL.
Here's were I am today. The first two planking sheets are installed. I would have done more but life got in the way this week. Hopefully will pick up speed and ambition starting today.
Here's a photo of the current state.
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marktiedens reacted to aydingocer in Orient Express Sleeping Car 1929 by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - Scale 1:32
Figure 111: First brake shoe installed. When installed it swings freely on the bolt. I used superglue to fix it in position, just as close and parallel to the wheel.
The brake shoes on the outer side are rather easy to install. However those on the inner parts are very very tricky to even fit at first place, let alone insert the bolt, tighten the nut and glue to the right position. My recommendation to a builder reading these pages would be to consider installing the brake shoes before installing the wheels.
That's all for today!
Thanks for watching!
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marktiedens reacted to king derelict in Renault FT by king derelict - FINISHED - Flyhawk - 1/72 - PLASTIC
I'm resurrecting the Renault thread as I start the second of the two models included in the kit. The Montrose base paint is drying and the corvette is on hold awaiting supplies. FedEx finally coughed up the package of paints after giving it a tour of the South East and when I opened it there was no hull red; the most critical paint needed. Apparently it was out of stock. Sigh. So another order was sent to the nice people at Spruebrothers and while I wait I decided to try another Renault light tank.
The basic assemblies have been completed and the primer has been sprayed on. These Flyhawk kits are really very nice light relief between the bigger efforts although the paint schemes are challenging. I had planned to use the French Tigre scheme but I'm looking at the FTs in Polish service too. This one will have the 37mm gun and the early wheels. A nice touch; Flyhawk moulded the gun barrel with a hollow in the business end.
Thanks for looking
Alan
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marktiedens reacted to CDW in Prinz Eugen 1942 by CDW - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1:700 Scale - PLASTIC
Almost done now. Needs anchors and chains, outer railings, and a little weathering.
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marktiedens reacted to mtaylor in HMS Sphinx 1775 by mtaylor - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64
Not much to report as have had "other" things going on. I am working still on the skins. The top ones are in and the lower ones are works in progress. But then I took a pic today while glue was drying.... title it "you can't have too many clamps". I don't have enough and the hardware store I visited was out.
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marktiedens reacted to Old Collingwood in Battle of Waterloo Attack on La Haye Sainte Farm by Old Collingwood - 1/56 (28mm)
Evening all, another slight update on my 5th Line KGL - hands now painted, back packs with Grey Coats and straps, facings done and details to the Shako's, not far to go with these than I will be back on some more 2nd KGL Light.
OC.
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marktiedens reacted to Kevin in Phoenix by Kevin - Panart - 1/84 - Ex Amerigo Vespucci - restarted June 2020
thank you comments and likes
had a day off yesterday, infact i was doing some jobs for me mum (which basically meant me and the dog were sat in the carpark for 5 hours whilst my wife took her in for appointments
any way today i sorted out the centre island and got the derrick area sorted
a few photos of my workbench, which i tidied ny before the shots
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marktiedens reacted to Glenn-UK in HMS Sphinx 1775 by Glenn-UK - Vanguard Models - 1:64
HULL WORK
PAINTING HULL
BUILD MANUAL STEPS 229 - 232
LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX
Tools Used
Craft knife
Waterline marker
Wood filler
Sandpaper (110 and 400 grit)
Titebond original
Varnish
Tape
Gathering the materials required
No parts required
Assembly Process
After I had added the waterline I applied plenty of tape to the hull, replicating the picture shown on step 230 of the build manual.
Using the same Matt Super white paint as shown in the picture for step 231 in the build manual I sprayed a thin coat on the exposed hull. I then spent a lot of time sanding, then applying filler (diluted with water and titebond) to fill any dips and then sanding the filled area smooth. This process was repeated several times.
Once I was happy with how the hull was looking I removed the tape from the stem, keel and stern posts below the waterline. A thin coat of varnish was applied to the bare wood areas and the hull was then sprayed a couple more times with the matt super white paint. Due to the dust cloud in the shipyard during the process I did not risk taking pictures. OK I simply forgot to take some pictures😇.
As can be seen in the photo below I have actually done a bit more work which will be covered in my next post.
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marktiedens reacted to Edwardkenway in Vought F4U-1A Corsair by Edwardkenway - FINISHED - Revell - 1:32
Thanks to everyone for the encouraging comments and for the 👍's up.
A little bit of an update, and it looks as though there is going to be some major bashing to fit the cockpit into the fuselage! This is because the cockpit is for the Trumpeter kit and not the Revell🙄
part of the kit had to be pared away to allow the instrument panel piece to fit in.
the underside is causing me a headache as the body of the cockpit prevents the wing assembly to sit in place🤔😶
I'm thinking that the marked area may have to be sacrificed?, but once everything is fitted it won't be noticeable.
If none of this works I'll revert to the kits cockpit 😔
I don't want to do that though as the AF kit looks nice. Anyway I'll let you know what happens.
Thanks again for visiting 😊
Cheers
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marktiedens reacted to popeye the sailor in 1955 Lincoln Futura by popeye the sailor - Revell - PLASTIC
par-don yet again..........grilled supper, but got tied into a movie while I ate. blame it on Vin Diesel the guy doing the drum roll on this big reveal is very happy to see me.......ok.......you can stop now now......this starts out with the car showing her bad side. the body is back together, but when I went to fit the front bumper, I found that the halves weren't matched up correctly. so I had to split the halves apart again and refit them, so the bumper would line up. touch ups have been done.
it looks terrible now, but along the sides, a long chrome strip goes on from front to back....both bumpers have to line up. as you can see, I have the front bumper in place already.
I decanted some of the paint, to paint the undersides of the headlight tunnels. I focused on the gaps I saw when I did the last dry fit to the rear bumper.
I found that the chrome strip will cover over it, so I need not be concerned. so that the chrome strips will fit flush to the body line, I sanded the mating line from front to back......made it look even worse.
I did some chroming to the canopy........
I may go around the base of it.......still to be done. the chrome strips actually went on pretty well.......I used CA to cement them in place. this is one of the few times I've actually used CA on plastic.
and the rear bumper is in place now. I was in the process of digging up some deeper red for the tail lights. not much more to go
the steering wheel is nearby......I painted around the rim of it. more soon......
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marktiedens reacted to popeye the sailor in HO trains and layouts by popeye the sailor
I did some work during my work week.........surprisingly {wonders never cease}. I need to fit the rest of the windows, so I can paint the entire lot. still flip flopp'in on the color, so while I was cutting the windows out of the powerhouse walls, I can bat it around in my head. the templates that I cut out don't match the size of the wall billets, which the outer wall is already done in a brick motif. I decided not to downsize the overall size of the building, but drop the height..........about 10 mm should be good. I was also going to leave the walls and scratch build the eaves and pitched roof, but I ended up pitching the roof using this 10 mm spec, leaving enough to box in the soffits. the back wall has no windows........the side walls are identical......only the front wall has a door {so much for fire codes}. I thought I had taken some pictures of the assembly.....but I thought wrong.
the corners will have moldings to hide the bare wood.......I painted up some .5 x 3 mm strip stock to cover them. wish I had 2 mm, but this is all I got at this point in time. I added some form of framing inside to help strengthen the structure. with all the windows and doors cut and delegated, I can paint them........I went with a dark gray.
the kit did not supply anything for the glass, so now the question is, whether to use that tinted cello I have on hand, or use clear stuff {which I also have plenty}. I find that today's clear product packaging does a great deed to keep me well stocked {and in different thicknesses too}. I also ordered an assortment of windows from Micro Mark, produced by Tichy.......I'll show you what they look like in the next update......they are pretty cool unlike the boiler house, I decided to drop a floor in there for the second level. this kinda forces my hand......now it is likely that I will do it for the boiler house. the last thing I did before we had to go out again, was to add the side sills for the rafters and A frames, which will be likely from scratch as well.
hope to get more done.......I'm on the week end
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marktiedens reacted to yvesvidal in HMS Bellona by yvesvidal - FINISHED - CAF Model - 1:48
So, without waiting and to verify the parts of Session #2, I could not help myself and started gluing the central shell piece:
The fitting is beautiful and the cuts are perfect. The shell pieces are cut in a 1.5 mm thick plywood, which do marry tenderly the curves of the futtocks. Once completed, this should give us a very nice and solid hull, for planking.
Yves
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marktiedens reacted to yvesvidal in HMS Bellona by yvesvidal - FINISHED - CAF Model - 1:48
- SESSION #2 -
Before finishing Session #1 completely, I had to have parts from Session #2 and ideally from Session #3. We will get into the details later.
Session #2 package was ordered directly from CAF model in Shanghai, apparently. The parcel took close to two weeks to arrive and was severely damaged by water. As you may not know, a lot of China is under the water due to weather manipulations and enormous rains, and people are suffering a lot. My parcel was probably flooded in Shanghai and kept its humidity long enough to develop some mildew.... Session #2 is about $250 plus shipping.
Fortunately, the content of the kit Session #2 itself, was not damaged by the water since it was protected by a film. On the other hand, all the strips of wood for planking hull and deck soaked all the moisture they could.
I have been trying to dry all of them in the best possible way, but a lot will have to be replaced by CAF. I have to say that their packaging was not up to their reputation and that all this disaster could have been avoided if the strips had been stored in a sealed bag. The cherry wood was prone to develop some mildew as you can see below:
Tom, from CAF model, indicated that a new set of wood strips will be shipped to me (free of charge) when I purchase Session #3. I have to command his support and responsiveness. His willingness to help is a far departure from the total lack of responses from certain large European kits manufacturers for example.
Anyway, despite these "aleas" of the shipping process, Tom included for me two main guns which are no longer sold with Session #2. In the past Session #2 would provide 24 main guns that will be mounted on the Gun Deck. CAF changed their approach and all the guns are now made available in Session #5 (70 guns).
Let's take a look at Session #2 and what it offers.
The main deck, cut on a beautiful 2 mm plywood. Again as in Session #1, we deal with beautiful material, fresh and clean wood, perfectly cut and presented. When I compare the quality of CAF parts with for instance Constructo, I am glad that I am building a kit from CAF.
Documentation is again IKEA style, with not enough information.....really not enough.
If we could merge the Chuck Passaro Construction guides with the quality of the CAF models, I do not know a single human being who would not be constructing these kits.
And two 30 pounders main guns, finely cast in brass:
Yves