FifeModels

Video #17 Complete

Lining of the gun ports is done. Not the neatest works, insides were difficult to paint due to access, but by the time it's finished will be very difficult to see.

5 hours ago, Yardleg said:

Do you think that you are going to rig her, or are you going to make her without masts? She would be larger than an elephant with all of those poles!

Yeh she will be fully rigged.

Video #16 Complete

Hull frames are now faired ready for planking. Was probably the easiest one I've done to date. I used an orbital mouse sander to do the bulk of the work, and switched to a Dremel with the EZ-Clic sanding disc for the stern area and anywhere close to the keel.



Then the first 4 layers of hull planking on each side. The wood supplied is amazingly pliable. I've not had to use a single plank bending method anywhere on this build yet.

Video #15 Complete

Pretty simple, planking/painting the inner sides of the lowest gundeck, and fitting some cable to each deck in prep.

Video #14 Complete

On 15/05/2025 at 18:49, hmcarlin said:

Not to be argumentative, but a POF model has no more internal support than these pictures show; yet, when done carefully with light pressure on the sanding sticks, fairing can (and is) done successfully -- as is internal fairing!

Oh I am sure it can. But knowing my luck/life/experience I would just destroy it trying.

On 13/05/2025 at 00:54, hmcarlin said:

And WHY is it unavoidable?  Why can't you fair the frames before assembling the interior fittings??

Because unlike most builds there is no internal structure to support or add strength to the ribs.

I have the same concern. I really dislike working on any internals prior to fairing the ribs, but with this build it's unavoidable.

Any dust ingress I will probably deal with via my airbrush after fairing is finished. Dealing with any after sanding the planking is going to be a bit trickier...

Video #12 Complete

Video 12 was fairly straight forward. Mostly just fitting the items built in the previous video.

Fitting the compartments was much easier than I thought it would be. I did have to adjust the stern wall to fit as I clearly didn't get the wall in the correct position, and the same with the beam at the bow.

8 hours ago, hmcarlin said:

Thanks for sharing your journey on this build!  Nice to follow along vicariously, as I'm unlikely to find room for a project of this size.

Nor me. No idea where I am going to put this when it's finished haha

Thanks

Video #11 Complete

Video 11 was mostly just building some of the internals. I will have a problem with the 4 vertical beams at the bow, as the lower compartment wasn't in the right position, but I will address that as and when.

Video #10 Complete

Video 10 is done. Stern section didn't come out as well as I'd hoped as it was quite tricky to get the slope correct. I had to use some creative licence in the end.

Video #9 Complete

Video 9 is done. Foward compartments. They are still in 3 separate sections at the moment as it made it easier to build this way. They will get joined when installing in the hull.

Video #8 Complete

Video 8 is done. Stern compartments. Not fantastic but given it will be very hard to see it will do.

For the bow compartment I may paint the parts on the fret first, I think I will get a smoother finish.

Video #7 Complete

And video 7 is done. Pretty straight forward this one.

The wood for the beams is quite soft so the tool for making a groove works really well, but even if you don't have that, the pointed end of a needle file will work just as well.

In hindsight I would have piggybacked the wiring into the next set and so on just as with the upper decks, just so you don't end up with as many wires.

I didn't paint the frame for the lanterns as my hands weren't cooperating the last few days.

Hi all.

Just a very quick video showing the progress of the hold lighting.
 

Video #6 Complete

Video 6 is done, which was adding support pillars and various cargo.

For the pillars, I found it easier to source the cross beams and use those for reference to get the correct height, and made some further adjustments to the compartment walls.

Thanks

16 hours ago, Mike Dowling said:

Hi Dominic, long time since I heard much from you. You must have been saving hard for this kit!!! Tell me, why is one compartment copper lined?

Indeed, it's been a while.

Cost of the kit, well a company was stupid enough to give me a credit card with a £2k limit right about when this was released so, be rude to refuse an opportunity like that haha.

As for the copper lined compartment...I have no clue. You are the historical naval expert, you tell me lol. I would guess it was for storing perishables or some such like?

Video #5 Complete

As with the last video, more of the same. Seemed a little easier making and cutting the boards, I seem to be handling the quirks of it now.

Forward compartment didn't fit quite as well as the stern, user error I guess. As with the stern, not yet fitted into place to allow any adjustments I will need to make.


Thanks again.

Video #4 Complete

That was a wade. Plus I was ill for several days so didn't get much done.

Cutting the templates was an utter chore. The boards kept breaking and I must have gone through well over 20 swann mortons.
I plodding on and eventually worked throough.

The rear hold compartment isn't get fixed in place, as I feel I may have to adjust the upper edges for the beams and deck to fit above. The inner free standing wall with the shelf is fixed in place, but it easier to get to if I need to adjust the top at all. Forward two deck parts aren't yet fixed into place.

Progress pics below


Thanks

Video #3 Complete

This was a mission, had a number of minor issues.

First, not happy with the stain on the hold planking, I just wasn't careful enough with removing excess glue, and it's a difficult area (for me) to be able to sand.
Still, most of it will be covered up by cargo and ballast so it's not an issue, just annoying.

The supports for the shelves for me, weren't as long horizontally as in the video, and I also had to shorten them vertically to allow the shelves to sit level.

You can obviously work out what I did wrong!

The panels for the pumphouse were a nightmare to cut, as in my previous post. I got there in the end though.

I also had to do some slight adjustments to the slots for the rear deck piece.

One major thing I did notice was that, despite using the paper templates, the cutouts in the shelves template didn't line up with the ribs, and that cannot have been something I got wrong as the rib placement template lines up with laser cut parts. So something is wrong with either the laser cut parts, or either of the templates. Again, not a hard fix, just glad I checked beforehand.

Thanks

Evening all.

Well, What a flaming nightmare this was! The "boards" they have you make is probably the most convoluted way of doing this. Why not just use ply formers and plank with veneer?

The boards keep breaking whilst cutting, are very hard to cut, and just generally a pain in the *** to do.

So following another build of this, I've ordered some 1.5 Birch ply boards, and will cut the remainder of the hold structures from that, and either scribe the planks or just use 0.1mm veneer on them.

Anyway, onwards!

Thanks

8 hours ago, archjofo said:

Hello,

This will be an interesting model ship, with lots of insight.
Sorry, I may have missed it in your post.
What plan are you using to build it from scratch?

This isn't scratch build. This is Artesenia Latina's Anatomy HMS Victory kit, as shown at the top of the first post.

Thanks

Hello all.

Making some progress on planking the hold.

Started off one the cutaway side, planking just over the edge then trimming and sanding back.


Then repeated the same basic process on the other side up to the bottom edge of the slots for the first set of deck beams. Also used the various templates to mark out the position of the inner ribs as well as the base for the main mast.

And finally made a start on fitting the inner ribs.




Thanks

Video #1 Complete

The first stage is complete. I just need to over again the rib joints with filler and smooth them out a bit more.



Thanks