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Richard Griffith
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from Aussie048 in How to Taper Masts?
Hi Ken, there are many ways to get the shape, and the least expensive is the sand paper and electric drill method. You can get the proper shape without a lathe.
The lathe is another method but requires different techniques and some experience. If you go this route, do some practice to get the feel. You will also likely use sand paper.
Have fun. Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from WackoWolf in How to Taper Masts?
Hi Ken, there are many ways to get the shape, and the least expensive is the sand paper and electric drill method. You can get the proper shape without a lathe.
The lathe is another method but requires different techniques and some experience. If you go this route, do some practice to get the feel. You will also likely use sand paper.
Have fun. Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from src in What wood to make masts out of?
Another excellent choice is Costello which looks and acts like boxwood but is less expensive, It takes stain well so you can get the color you want. Costello is from South America, mostly from Paraguay.
Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from jud in Band Saw Question... or two
Hi Mark, I agree with Mark Taylor and Jud - buying cheap machines is a waste of money and is asking for a large dose of frustration. If you look for a decent machine in the second hand markets, such Ebay, Amazon, Craig's list, you might find a 14" Delta or similar in your price range. It may need cleaning and some replacement parts such as guide blocks, new blades and such. Be sure the motor and bearings are good, plus examine the rubber on the wheels.
You might be surprised at the versatility of the these machines and how much more you can do with it. I use my 14" Delta all the time. If I had to select it over my Delta 10" table saw, I would likely select the band saw, even though I use the table saw more. Each has its strengths and short falls. If I had to give up on one, I would probably have to see a shrink. LOL
The thin kerf saw blade on your table saw is a good option. Another option is to take your wood to some one who has a band saw.
Good luck with your project~!
Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from mtaylor in Band Saw Question... or two
Hi Mark, I agree with Mark Taylor and Jud - buying cheap machines is a waste of money and is asking for a large dose of frustration. If you look for a decent machine in the second hand markets, such Ebay, Amazon, Craig's list, you might find a 14" Delta or similar in your price range. It may need cleaning and some replacement parts such as guide blocks, new blades and such. Be sure the motor and bearings are good, plus examine the rubber on the wheels.
You might be surprised at the versatility of the these machines and how much more you can do with it. I use my 14" Delta all the time. If I had to select it over my Delta 10" table saw, I would likely select the band saw, even though I use the table saw more. Each has its strengths and short falls. If I had to give up on one, I would probably have to see a shrink. LOL
The thin kerf saw blade on your table saw is a good option. Another option is to take your wood to some one who has a band saw.
Good luck with your project~!
Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from WackoWolf in Band Saw Question... or two
Hi Mark, I agree with Mark Taylor and Jud - buying cheap machines is a waste of money and is asking for a large dose of frustration. If you look for a decent machine in the second hand markets, such Ebay, Amazon, Craig's list, you might find a 14" Delta or similar in your price range. It may need cleaning and some replacement parts such as guide blocks, new blades and such. Be sure the motor and bearings are good, plus examine the rubber on the wheels.
You might be surprised at the versatility of the these machines and how much more you can do with it. I use my 14" Delta all the time. If I had to select it over my Delta 10" table saw, I would likely select the band saw, even though I use the table saw more. Each has its strengths and short falls. If I had to give up on one, I would probably have to see a shrink. LOL
The thin kerf saw blade on your table saw is a good option. Another option is to take your wood to some one who has a band saw.
Good luck with your project~!
Duff
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Richard Griffith reacted to tlevine in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Because of the server issue I went back and checked all of the photos in the build log. It was necessary to repost about a dozen pictures.
I have made and installed the hammock battens. These are pieces of tooth shaped wood that attach to the beams just under the carlings. Their function is to provide a hook to secure the hammocks. I first made several strips of wood the correct dimension (2" x 3") and glued them together. I set the height of the blade on the table saw to the depth of the notch and sawed all of the strips simultaneously. The distance between the teeth is 12". The piece was then put into a bottle of isopropanol and the individual pieces separated from each other after several minutes. The interior and exterior edges were rounded off with files. The nails attaching the batten to the beam were simulated with an awl highlighted with pencil. I decided to only place these on the starboard side since I have not yet decided how much decking I will install on the port side.
I have also finished the upper row of planks for the aft bulkheads. They now extend to just below the beams.
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from Kimberley in How to sew sails on your wifes sewing machine
Gutten Tag Heinz, ihre Werk ist ausgezeichnet! (translated-your work is excellent).
When I need decent sails made with textiles, I plan to try your wire covered with thread idea.
Thank you for posting your work.
Duffer
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Richard Griffith reacted to overdale in 15th Century Latin Caravel by Vivian Galad - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1/50
Vivian,
here are a few more photos of the junk as requested. It's about 20% larger than the AL red dragon kit.
The last two are of another model of a similar junk set in a storm. It was an inch and a half long. The rigging was stretched contact adhesive, the sails were paper and the sea was clay. The porcelain fragments next to the sea are Ming dynasty, recovered from the wreck of a junk that sank in the China Sea.
Hope the pictures are of use, any questions please feel free to ask..
Kind regards,
Dan.
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from AntonyUK in The hazardous chemicals we use
Good advice regarding dust and allergic reactions.
The photo above shows a very UNSAFE cutting technique and is not recommended.
Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from jud in Iron chain for yard slings
Hi Ron, per the book by James Lees-The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, ISBN 0870219480, slings came into use about 1770 and were used as an addition to jeers. These rope slings were changed to chain slings during war time and eventually replaced rope slings altogether, generally from 1811 onward.
With either rope or chain slings, the jeers were slacken when the slings were rigged so the weight of the yard was borne by the slings. I think the rope sling was removed when chain slings were rigged but I have not found a specific reference. It just makes sense to have only one sling.
The chain sling were secured to the strop by a slip which looks like a clasp to a lady's necklace or wrist bangle, like the jaw of an alligator. Around the yard was a double chain strop which had two shackles thru which the slip was fastened. It may easier to see the graphics than to describe it.
Duff
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Richard Griffith reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thank you very much John, Colin, Doris and Popeye .
Fitting the Channels perfectly horizontally was accomplished by the use of a couple of specially made "jigs" that sit on the planksheers from one side to the other. Masking tape and clamps hold the jigs firmly in position. The leg glued to the underneath of the horizontal member was measured at the inboard edge and cut square.
Danny
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Exceptionally nice work Dan~!
The recent posts bring up a good issue-at what point do we accept our work? That is, when is the part good enough to put on our model ship? Do we throw away the item and remake it once, twice, more? We must therefore, make decisions at every step of the way, and take into account many factors, such as will the casual viewer even notice, will it be judged by experts (if entered into a juried competition), can we do better, do we have the time and skills? For example, I had to remake the drum head for my Vulture 5 times. (Next time, I will use a slitting saw instead of an end mill to cut the square slots for the capstan bars.)
For me and I think most of us, are we having fun?
I am challenging myself to raise my level of fit and finish, do more research, and remake parts to the highest level I can. This hobby has so many challenges that it never grows stale; there is always more to learn.
Well, enough of this, I need to make more chips, er ships. Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from WackoWolf in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Exceptionally nice work Dan~!
The recent posts bring up a good issue-at what point do we accept our work? That is, when is the part good enough to put on our model ship? Do we throw away the item and remake it once, twice, more? We must therefore, make decisions at every step of the way, and take into account many factors, such as will the casual viewer even notice, will it be judged by experts (if entered into a juried competition), can we do better, do we have the time and skills? For example, I had to remake the drum head for my Vulture 5 times. (Next time, I will use a slitting saw instead of an end mill to cut the square slots for the capstan bars.)
For me and I think most of us, are we having fun?
I am challenging myself to raise my level of fit and finish, do more research, and remake parts to the highest level I can. This hobby has so many challenges that it never grows stale; there is always more to learn.
Well, enough of this, I need to make more chips, er ships. Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Exceptionally nice work Dan~!
The recent posts bring up a good issue-at what point do we accept our work? That is, when is the part good enough to put on our model ship? Do we throw away the item and remake it once, twice, more? We must therefore, make decisions at every step of the way, and take into account many factors, such as will the casual viewer even notice, will it be judged by experts (if entered into a juried competition), can we do better, do we have the time and skills? For example, I had to remake the drum head for my Vulture 5 times. (Next time, I will use a slitting saw instead of an end mill to cut the square slots for the capstan bars.)
For me and I think most of us, are we having fun?
I am challenging myself to raise my level of fit and finish, do more research, and remake parts to the highest level I can. This hobby has so many challenges that it never grows stale; there is always more to learn.
Well, enough of this, I need to make more chips, er ships. Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Exceptionally nice work Dan~!
The recent posts bring up a good issue-at what point do we accept our work? That is, when is the part good enough to put on our model ship? Do we throw away the item and remake it once, twice, more? We must therefore, make decisions at every step of the way, and take into account many factors, such as will the casual viewer even notice, will it be judged by experts (if entered into a juried competition), can we do better, do we have the time and skills? For example, I had to remake the drum head for my Vulture 5 times. (Next time, I will use a slitting saw instead of an end mill to cut the square slots for the capstan bars.)
For me and I think most of us, are we having fun?
I am challenging myself to raise my level of fit and finish, do more research, and remake parts to the highest level I can. This hobby has so many challenges that it never grows stale; there is always more to learn.
Well, enough of this, I need to make more chips, er ships. Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in drying freshcut trees
Hi Richard, I have had excellent results with parafin wax. Carefully melt the wax in boiling water so as to minimize the fire potential, and when all melted, dip the ends of the logs. I leave the bark on. Figure about one year of air drying for each inch in diameter.
I do not use oak for model ships as the pores are big and oak has a pronounced ring figure.
Good luck and have fun. Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in How does one know what needs to be served and how much
Hi Marc, the Utrecht reconstruction does not have serving on the shrouds (see Ab Hoving/Cor Emke's book). Although this reconstruction probably has synthetic rope, you are correct in that the need to serve the first shroud is not present, the chaffing is not there.
A quick review of 'Valkenisse' by Rob Napier indicates no servings on the shrouds but the actual ships would have had it on the foremost shroud of each mast. For the model, he took his cue from contemporary models which used limited servings, and no serving on the shrouds. For Valkenisse, the main stay, the main preventer stay, the catharpins, probably the fore stay an fore dpreventer were served. Perhaps a few other minor items were served too.
So, what is your pleasure? If your scale is large, I recommend serving the foremost shrouds. If small, then don't. BTW, forget about the worming and parceling on a model. These add too much thickness. IF however, the serving is lumpy, you might consider using very small worming thread before serving.
Above all, have fun~! Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from DORIS in ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
WOW
I think I will try to do some sculpting, you give me the inspiration.
Thank you for posting.
Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from mtaylor in Wood toxicity
I do not like wearing dust masks either for the same reasons, plus I have a beard. Instead, I hook up shop vacuums to my saws and sanders to catch most of the dust. But some dust goes into the air.
So, I made a CHEAP air filter. It is a 20" box fan with a high quality 20" furnace filter taped to the intake side. This helps clear the air.
Note: the saw dust that will injure you is the dust you cannot see, and the dust that is toxic. If you are sensitized, then you will likely need to buy an air filter that will capture dust sized 5 microns, preferably 1 micron in size. I am fortunate in that I do not have much sensitivity, yet.
Have fun and stay healthy. Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in Best books for this
Throwing in a few more comments: Lever, Steel, Harland are all excellent authors of rigging and all have valuable information. Other authors include Lavery, Hahn, Napier, Ronnberg, Marquardt, Underhill, Longridge, Chapelle, White, Goodwin, Biddlecombe, McKay and others. Petersson is OK but be careful as he made a number of errors.
The Niagra is a very different ship from the Connie meaning that you cannot find a single book for both types. You might find one for each ship but more likely you need to verify the instructions in the kit by consulting the authors noted above. Rigging also changed on each ship so you will need to pick a time frame and then do some research.
Personally, I enjoy the research and associated discovery, plus this gives me a more representative model (as soon as I finish one and get to another...)
Above all, enjoy the process and the discovery!
Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in Colored thread for rigging
Hey Marc,
Standing rigging would be dark; running rigging would he hemp to light tan.
All lines would have some preservative to protect against the harsh conditions so no line should have the bright white look.
Some models look very good with black shrouds and stays.
Go with your artist's eye and make no apologies.
Have fun and enjoy your build.
Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from ortho85 in How to rectify bulkhead errors?
I had a similar problem which I solved by sawing out the blocks, debonding the joint at the keel, then regluing that joint and installing new blocks between the bulkheads. Other fixes were made by gluing on more material per prior posts above.
Remember, wood is wonderful and can be easily shaped. Some parts, like deck furniture, are exposed to close scrutiny so would need to be remade, not repaired.
Persevere and have fun. Duff
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Richard Griffith got a reaction from Modeler12 in Clamps, an old trick revisited
Hi Jay Modeler12, that is one idea but here is a picture of what I tried to say, plus a couple of other modifications. These might be useful to you and to others.
The third pix has tiny half round dowels glued to the inside ends of a reversed cloths pin.
The center pix has two pieces of music wire inserted in the ends of the pin, and two guides glued to one half of the clothes pins so they keep the 2 halves in alignment. These were needed for clamping in a very small spaces.
The first pix shows a pin with a nail inserted transverse and sand paper glued to the inside faces-handy for holding planks to bulkheads. The other pin is cut so the opening is extra wide.
Keep modeling!
Duff
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