yvesvidal

The planking getting close to where stealer planks are needed, I'll probably do one more each side up from the garboard & maybe 3 or 4 more each side down from the gunwales. The planking is ok, a few wobbles, I'm just not sure to what extent that can be sanded out or not - or whether they will be noticeable. If there is any that bother me enough I can cut some softwood veneer strips & glue them on top & fair it. I'll need to read forum threads on sanding, whether to use something more than just fingers. At 28" I am thinking of a small torture board ... there are sanding blocks where are a foam core, or I could glue sandpaper to something flexible.
 

 

 

 

 

 
thanks for watching, bye for now
 
MP

Tuesday, November 24, 2015
 
The second round of planking is over (the smallest boat in the two photos). 
Now it remains the third and last one that will be done using Tanganyika veneer. At the end the wood color will be like the larger longboat visible in the same two pictures.
 
This second boat, apart from the quite different hull form, seems becoming better. Here the project I prepared with a CAD software was better, apart from the last bulkhead (the sternpost) totally wrong and that I corrected during the application of the two layers of planking.
 
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100385_zpsdksmcykx.jpg

02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100386_zpspwnnkitc.jpg

 
Cheers, Jack.Aubrey.

With my handy kindergarten tools, I am finding the backing slooooow going.
 

Have begun planking the hull.  I have to be careful with the glue so it doesn't show on the inside.

 
 

Pilot area which has been strengthened with scrap wood.

 
The bulkhead has a door opening. Here I will make the door that can be moved, like the real thing.


 
The Cabin floor is 1/8” balsa.

 
The three ½ oval slats are going to be the inner walls in the cabin.

 
Close up how the floor, and inner walls look like.

 
Dry Fitted all items.

 
 
How the cabin will look like in the front to the cabin (bow) there will be a door for storage.

some little progress so far....
 
 
mehmet

this is how it looks like when engine is mounted in the compartment
and photos from hull and the deck
Mehmet

hello every body
I have started my new model, sponge diving boat. this one is the type which has been used as a sponge diving boat for many years in mediterian coast in Greece and Turkey.
I have build the hull and the deck, ant the engine- I am planning to make the engine compartment visible.
 
 
Mehmet

Thank You, Cap'n'Bob, I am pleased with how the Hull turned out, I decided this morning that I will seal her up with West System epoxy. This way she could still be Sailed ( I like that idea ) 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Paragon – a Modified Mayflower
Part 23 – Finishing Touches
 
It has taken me longer to finish Paragon than I thought at the last post.  Family matters played a part, but I also started working on one of my next projects.
 
The first of the remaining items was to create some decorative pieces to add a finished look to the exposed edges of the bulwarks.  At first I planned to make these fairly ornate and whimsical, as in the following photo.
 
          
 
After making (and breaking) a few of these over a few days, I decided I didn’t really like the effect when they were on the ship, so I decided to make the pieces less whimsical and more in line with the ‘scroll’ work already on the Beakhead.
 
          
 
There were four areas on the ship I wanted to use these on, and each area needed one on each side.  Each one of these 8 pieces needed to be fit to the location, and I needed to keep track of which went where, so I used carpet tape on a block marked with the position of each piece to hold them for finishing.
 
          
 
Next up was making some rope coils for the belaying pins and cleats.  Since these coils were to be soaked in diluted white glue, I tried several approaches to keep the wet lines from adhering to the jig.  I settled on making the jigs out of brass.  The pins are epoxied into a wood block, and the holes in the brass strip align with the pins.  When the coils are dry the brass strip is slid off the pins and the coils are easily removed.  I also decided to use diluted matte medium rather than glue on the lines.
 
The jig for the coils around the cleats was pretty straightforward.
 
          
 
          
 
I tried different jigs for making coils for the belaying pins, and wasn’t happy with all of the coils being wrapped around the belaying pin.  I finally developed a jig which allowed the coils to be formed into loops with the only last couple of loops going around the pin.  To me this looked more realistic.
 
          
 
In the photo, the longer pin is used to form the basic coils, and is then removed so that the final loops can be brought under the coil and over the top vertical pin, which is soldered into the brass strip.
 
The following photo shows two of the new coils on the left and an older coil (with all loops around the pin) on the right.
 
          
 
The touch-up on the figurehead simply consisted of giving him eyes (I used a blue .005 drafting pen), and a few shadows to make the musculature and fabric rolls a little more realistic.
 
          
 
Once the figurehead was in place I was very pleased with the effects of the shadowing.
 
          
 
Finally, the anchors needed to be made.  I tried several approaches using brass or copper, and wasn’t happy with the results.  I settled on making the anchors from wood.  I used Pau Marfim – also known as Guatambu – in place of metal.  This is a hard wood very similar to boxwood.  The main pieces were from 7/64 sheet, and the flukes were made from 1/32.   The wood stocks were from African Pear.
 
          
 
After the pieces were shaped, I primed the ‘metal’ pieces.
 
         
 
I polyed the wood stocks, then used 1/16 black crepe artist’s tape to make the metal bands for the stocks.
 
          
 
I used masking tape to position the spacing for the bands.
 
          
 
          
 
          
 
The rings were made using a jeweler’s ring-making pliers.
 
          
 
After experimenting with different size rings, I used a piece of masking tape to help me keep the rings in the correct position on the pliers.
 
          
 
I used coated 24 gauge wire.  The pliers made small dents in the coating of the rings, but I was able to fill in the dents with paint.
 
          
 
Pretty happy with the anchors.
 
          
 
          
 
And Very Happy that we’re FINISHED.
 
          
 
I’ll try to get some better shots of the finished ship, and will post them sometime soon

Here are my finished chainplates, triangular deadeyes, and shrouds.
 
The real ship picture shows a shot from one of the two (very different from each other) full scale replicas of the Golden Hind.  This is  what I decided to model my chainplates from.  You can see that it is just an iron strap with one bolt head securing it to the hull. 
 
The first picture shows the flat brass bar from Detail Associates and Amati fine nails that I used.  For the chainplates on the smaller deadeyes on the rear, I had to file down the diameter of the heads of the nails somewhat, so they wouldn't be wider than the smaller brass bar used there.  For attaching the chainplate straps to the channels, I originally planned to solder them to the soldered ends of the brass wire deadeye wraps that protruded through the holes in the channels, but I used CA instead.  I had to do some filing on the wire ends to get them the right angles to the chainplate straps.
 
The second picture shows shows an example of the deadeyes and chainplate assembly that came with the kit, in contrast to what I did for my model.  As you can see, the kit parts look very oversize and bulky, plus the single strap I used is more appropriate for the time period of the Golden Hind.
 
In  my last post, I showed the predrilled holes I made for the chainplate nails, by using the line to find the correct angles.  Even so, I had a adjust a few of the holes, to keep the chainplate straps aligned with the shrouds, when looking at them straight on. Also, since each chainplate was at a different angle and length, I had to fit each one individually.
 
--Randy

Don't fight the Hyrda. 
 
I have spent a lot of time debating installing backing and I can't convince myself of anything other than install backing.  I'll have to pull out skills needed to make it happen.
 
Thanks, Keith

Hi Julie
 
This photo (borrowed from another members build) gives some idea of the problems encountered without backing. If you consider the sanding needed to get this smooth you will appreciate the degree of plank thinning that is involved.
 
By way of contrast look at this on my build with backing.
 
Zooming in to both photographs shows the issue better.
 
Regards Keith

Hi Julie
 
I used the backer for a number of reasons:
 
Because of the thinness of the planks and the wide spacing of the frames I knew the planks would want to curve more at the frames and flatten between them. This would mean that the hull would not change shape smoothly. The lack of smoothness would be greater than could be taken out by sanding - inevitably leading to sanding through the planks as they passed over the frames. The backing significantly reduces / eliminates this problem.
 
Perfect edge to edge butting of successive planks would be very hard to achieve. This type of butting invariably leaves isolated areas where the planks have some misalignment. A misalignment of 1/2 the plank thickness (only .020 inch) would mean half the plank thickness would have to be sanded away to create a smooth hull. The resulting thinned hull would of course be very weak. The backing significantly reduces this problem.
 
The backing stabilises the frames meaning you can complete the planking of one side before starting the other. Without backing you need to alternate planks from side to side. This is a more difficult operation because where the planks close at the bow they want to cross.
 
Although the backing does aid fairing of the frames its main purpose is to address the planking issues identified above. 
 
Keith

Hoping I can get some feedback on how to proceed...
 
I'm at the point where I have to decide to install balsa backer between the frames or proceed without it.  If I had precision tools here, I'd do the backer.  But without that, I am doubtful I can do a proper job.
 
What I am seeing I need to do is fair the frames just like they would be if the backer was installed.  This is what I have set up now:

 

 

 
The clamps keep the hull fairly rigid and straight.  But when I begin to take a rasp or file to the edges of the frames, there is some movement in areas not directly attached to the clamps.  And without the backers, there is some guesswork as to whether you are creating a proper fairing of the hull.  Yet I see most model builds do not have any kind of backer.
 
Keith, did you install the backer because of the size of the model and the space between the frames?
 
To anyone who has built a larger model, did you do so without backers?  If so, how did the hull look?  Was it properly faired after the first planking or did you need filler?

good morning everyone
 
making progress with at least an hour daily on the build, PE is being fitted everywhere, Like all my builds, I should stick to page one of the instructions, and not move on until completed, as I am continually finding something is now in the way

This model boat came with Balsa wood that was to be used for the hull then that needed to be fiberglassed .I think balsa wood should be used on model airplanes not boats  So had some Bass wood sheets that I cut to use on the hull and I'll epoxy later P/S that nasty white stuff is our first snow fall & I'm sure we'll  get a lot more 

In the evenings I have a little time to continue with the Lobster boat building so my next couple of photos are posted today.

Just started a build on a Midwest model kit BoothBay Lobster Boat started Nov.12 2015 

Thanks for the likes and all the tips for the lathe.  The entire breastwork is a project unto itself.  I made about 10 turnings from 7" square stock and picked the five most alike.  The top and intermediate rails are 3" x 11" with a decorative groove scraped into the edge (not visible in the pictures).  I need a lot more practice cutting and using scrapers.  I clamped the rails in a makeshift jig and heated them with a blow dryer to match the bend of the deck.   Undersized holes were drilled through the rails and reamed to size with files.  Drilling them out with a larger bit risks tear-out.  The posts are square where they pass through the lower rail and it needs careful filing to fit.  The turnings are not perfectly matched given my inexperience with the lathe.  Half-lap joints cut in the lower ends of the posts to attach to the deck beam.  Holes for simulated sheaves were drilled.  I don't want to mount it just yet for fear of breaking it while working on the bulwarks.
Maury

Sunday November 22nd, 2015  
   
 
Second planking in progress . .  
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20151122_181609_zpsi5izzfdy.jpg

 

On to another mini-project all in itself, the fighting top.  Lots of techniques here but I was leery of warping so I opted for using a 1/32" piece of basswood for my basic form, then glued the surrounding thicker rim before applying the second layer of planking. - again 1/32".
 

 
I did keep the curved front piece free to make shaping the inner planks much easier.  This whole assembly will be painted black but I still added some pencil caulking to give it the look prior to that painting.  next up was figuring out where all the radiating outward supports should go.  I copied the top to a piece of paper and figured out where I think they should be.  My proportional divider was used a LOT.  Once figured out I transferred to the top itself.
 

 
Then a lot of cutting.  I used a piece of walnut because I found a strip already cut that was perfect.  I ended up mortising the pieces that intersect the front curved piece into the curved piece to make the fit snug with no visible gaps.
 
I thought at first the strip I used was way more than enough, a third of the way through I wasn't so sure, sweating it until the last three pieces showed I was good.  Still have the rear railing and quite a few holes to cut but visually I am happy with it:
 

 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
 

 
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself.  The belaying pins were from my spares box.  Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
 
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
 
Mark

And the saga continues....
 
Next up is to cut the 'square' holes for the top mast shrouds to come through the top.  Cutting a square hole in basswood is not straight forward.  The wood is softer so keeping crisp edges is harder.  It is possible though with a little 'trickery.'  
 
Instead of drilling out and then hacking away praying for a good result, I outline where the squares need to be and use my sled on the table saw to cut out three sides of the square.  I then cut out a replacement piece for the missing side and slide into place.  I have the wire that will be used for the shrouds so used this as a spacer.  
 

 
Then with a little sanding everything ends up ship shape and perfect.  Square internal holes in basswood.
 

 
You might also noticed I added some trunnels through the top into the trestle trees to accurately locate the top each time I put it on.  It is also important before drilling the holes for the blocks under the top that you make sure you know where the supports are!  A little progress when possible.
 
Mark

I finally have most of the machinery parts machined.  Time to have some fun putting everything together.  Each model requires over 250 nuts and bolts just for the machinery.  The nuts and bolt heads range in size from 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches.  I found that 0-80 and 00-90 screws work for most of the bolts on Heroine but could only find screws with hex heads.  Heroine only used square headed fasteners.
 
I milled the nuts in three different sizes (scale 2 1/2 shown in photo)  The holes were milled slightly undersized and drilled and tapped to the proper thread.


 
Completed flywheel bearings notched into the cylinder timbers.


 
Starboard flywheel bearing as it appeared before excavation.

 
The parts that make up the valves for Heroine's engine.

 
Valves ready to be soldered.