Jim Lad
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In the photos, you'll see that the coil of rope is simply dropped over the pin - it isn't hitched to the pin by drawing a loop of rope over from behind. John -
Just for the record, it seems to be the fashion nowadays to hitch the coils of rope to the belaying pins, but this is not the traditional method. In many descriptions I have read the coils are simply placed over the pin. This was done so that when urgent action on the sail was needed, the coil could be very quickly thrown onto the deck and, yes, the coils often washed off the pins when solid water came over the rail. This method of securing the coils has been confirmed by a friend who was at sea in sail at the very end of the commercial sailing ship era, who is very scathing of the 'hitch the coil to the pin' method and is also backed up by contemporary photos and drawings. The contemporary illustrations below show what I mean. John Two photographs from the end of the 19th century and early twentieth century that clearly show the coils placed over the pins. And a drawing and two photos from the mid 19th century that show the same thing.
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Thanks, Russ! John
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Ah, good, another update of Ilhan's beautiful work! John
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At least you're getting back into order, Popeye! Take care of that cold (rum and lemon is supposed to be good). John
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Very nicely crafted, Danny. Looking forward to seeing the guns re-rigged. John
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Well, only a very small update again. I seem to have spent most of my day today running around doing almost everything except model making. However I did manage to get the stem on, so after cleaning up the basic backbone, the next job will be to cut the rabbets and then make the frame extension for the overhanging counter before making a framing jig and starting to give her some bones. John
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- francis pritt
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And so you should be! John
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Nice to see some actual progress, Gil! John
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No pinstripe looks good to me, Michael. John
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I've never used the wood, but the breadfruit are delicious! John
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Looking good, mate! Buy some extra long screws in case the next one is even bigger. John
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Russ, Great to see you back at your work bench! John
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Bill, You can cast in metal or resin. I've done a little resin casting and found it quite simple, but I've never cast in metal. John
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Gimbals! Yikes! John
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SS Vinal Haven by TBlack - FINISHED
Jim Lad replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
That's looking good, Tom. A little cleaning of the joints and you've got it licked! John -
Bill, I think Druxey's method is the way to go. Make one master for each size and then cast them. That way you'll still have the masters for future builds, and you'll have done it yourself. John
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Michael, I'm not sure that the contrasting colours look a bit 'flash' and not like you'd expect on a yacht (especially one that was a pilot cutter). I think I'd go for either plain wood or painted canvas. John
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Thanks for that, Bruce - that's a good idea for lining up the deadeyes! John
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Ollie, Whatever that label says, it wouldn't be 'ice chest'! I think you might find the teak a bit too grainy for the scale you're working at, but if you could see before buying to assess the grain, it would be fun to use. John
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- colonial cutter
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That's looking first class, Bruce. Do you fix the upper deadeyes to the piece of white card or plastic to get the spacing right? John
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Ulrich, Unless you need the additional strength of the wire for some reason, I think I'd be inclined to use an appropriately coloured rope instead. John
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Piet, looking at the photo, I'd say that the first of your two anchors is closest to the one on the sub. John
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Good grief! He builds his own working model compass and then apologises because it's not fully gimbled! John
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And is that you we can just see on the far right of the photo, Michael? John
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