gieb8688

ohhhhhh.......I gotta get outside and shovel snow    the admiral is going out to clear a small area for Gibbs { I already took him out this morning}.  we've gotten quite a bit so far........definitely the boon on this one!  no estimate on the amount yet,  but we're getting about 2 inches an hour.......started before 11:00 last night,  and has been raging since    should end by the evening.
 
...but here it goes........

 

 

 

no pictures of the port side.........I know.......too much repetition here.  all said and done,  this is what I have to clean up.

 

 

there is a small crack on the port side.....that was coated with glue and later sanded over.  after sanding,  you see what looks like a crack along the chine line........yes,  that will haunt me.

....now to finish the hull sheeting.  

 

you can see how jagged the bulkheads are.........die cutting was not kind.   doing the last sections will allow me to take advantage of the center stringer and the bow tip.......no lapstraking here Egilman   

with the starboard sheet dry,  the keel was prepped and the port side was laid down.

 

any tiny gaps were filled with glue and sanded over to mix in sawdust.

oh joy............more sanding 

 

 

 

 

the next sections only cover two more bulkheads,  keeping the joints on the bulkhead { I paid more attention to that}.  the curvature here is a bit more pronounce.

 

after cutting the starboard side {I turned the board around},  another was cut for the port side.

 

 

I didn't leave as much excess either.   I using the strips of cast off material,  to suck the sheeting onto the stringer,  to keep the curvature.  I'll let this dry.

in the beginning,  I was only going to pick at it.........but the more I worked on the hull,  the more I got into it { I guess the immersion in sawdust got the best of me}.  this session,  the apex was sanded along the keel.......here's a fairly good picture.....

 

from here,  basically was only sanding.......between the keel and the chine stringer.   the angles have to allow the sheeting to lay flat,  with the most contact,  much like faring.

edges and lines more refined........the shape and feel is good.  as much as I'd like to cover these two planes with whole sheeting,  I feared that they would not behave well.  so,  I broke it up in smaller sections.

 

the section joints are flush........I can hardly feel them.   it continues........

Hi,
This is a validation model for kit development, and the work of hull part will begin soon. About 70% of the design has been completed. My partners will make 1:36, 1:48 and bow section respectively. All the photos from their buildlog are authorized for me to release in MSW.
 
This project started from NMM's original draught, True Image Model, a ship model studio from UK, which obtained a commercial kit license from NMM.
 


 

 
 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now there are three modelers involved in the model validation. We will complete the bow section kit first, because it is relatively simple.
 
The wood used in kit is boxwood / pear wood.
 
Welcome to pay attention to our follow-up progress.
 
Jack

The instructions and BlueJacket say that the pilot house is a complicated build and that I should take my time. At least for me, this turned out to be true.
 
Many of the laser cut pieces are very delicate, so I did spend some time repairing pieces that I broke. That being said, I'm pretty happy with my progress so far. I still have several steps left before the pilot house is complete.
 

 
I added a sheet, spread and pillow to the captain's cabin. Since, the vessel was launched in 1948, I added a picture of Marilyn Monroe from 1948.
 
Here are some other images of the pilot house after painting and completing the cabin roof and pilot house roof, both of which are removable to enable seeing the detail inside. Also you can see the window frames and doors in the foreground, that I am currently working on.
 

 

 

Looking good, Paul.  There are a lot of relatively small laser-cut pieces to the pilot house, so take your time.  On the display model in the gallery, I left the roof off.   I reduced a copy of that Raquel Welch poster from "One Million Years BC" and hung it over the bunk in the captain's cabin.
 
 

Hi All - A quick update.
 
I have painted and attached the cap rails, buffalo rails, breast hook and the pins/assembly for the fore mast stays. This assembly was supposed to be painted black, but in all the images of the Pauline I've seen in it's various stages of life, including the instructions, it's always white. So, I painted it white.
 
Now it's on to the deck structures.
 

I painted then cut the timber heads to the instructed length.
 

 
Next step was to glue the timber heads to the water ways and against the bulwarks. The instructions stated that the timber heads should be perpendicular to the waterline, not the deck. I tried my best.
 
Here is the starboard side:
 

 
I needed to cut the excess off the timber heads, so that they would be even with the top of the bulwarks. I used my Dremel with a cut off disk.
 

 
Next, I had to do the same with the port side.
 

 
And the timber heads are in place.
 

 
 
 

I have finally started work on the masting. Boy, there sure are alot of spars compared to my last model. The foremast went together with lots of trial and error. Mostly error. But once I established a system, the other two masts went together rather easily. All the masting is currently dry fitted so that they can be worked on. There is a ton of fittings that will be glued on piece by piece and careful planning is called for before the spars are stained and painted. I'm pretty excited about getting to this stage. Rigging is one of my favourite phases of the build. Once the spars are fitted, rapid progress can be made with the rigging. Here's a photo of the masts in place...
 

After a long hiatus from Cutty Sark, I have finally started on the masting and rigging. This is just a short update as to where I'm at with the project.
 
The first step in this long and involved process is to fabricate the parts that hold the masts together, they being the tops and cross-trees. My old kit had these pieces marked out on sheets of ply which had to be cut out with a scroll saw and fret saw. I cut the pieces out with the scroll saw and then filed and sanded out the pieces to size.
Due to the fact that the tops are less than detailed as marked out on the plywood, I opted to use them as templates. The templates were then used to trace the shapes on thinner sheets so that I could sandwich the gratings in between. I decided to use styrene for the grating as they are a uniform thickness and width and there is no sanding involved for such small and delicate strips. All will be painted white so there won't be an issue with the different materials.
Here are some pics of the initial construction.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the likes gentlemen. I forgot to post a few pic's of the boat conversions. I basically chopped of a portion of the stern to two of the Biliing F167 life boats and then glued on a transom converting a double ender to a squared transom boat. This to me was the easiest solution and now all the boats are to a more correct scale and configured correctly.
Here are some photos of the conversion...
 

Hi All. Well, it's been a while since any serious work has taken place on my model ship bench. I am happy to be back and have resumed work on my CS.
I have finally dealt with the boats that are aboard the Cutty Sark. Two lifeboats and the gig and jolly boat. The kit came with three plastic boats and I realize that they are a serious no-no to some builders. I am not one of those however, and with a coat or two of paint they look way better than anything I could cobble together.
The kit came with 3 boats all described as lifeboats. They were F167 (good) and F405 (not good) it being way to big for the scale of model. I decided to get two more of the F167's and modify them by altering their transoms. That would convert them into a jolly boat and a gig. I added some lifelines to the gunwales of the lifeboats to make them more authentic.
I lashed down the jolly boat and gig but have not done so yet for the lifeboats. They would be in the way when it comes time to set up the shrouds and the rest of the rigging going to the belaying pins. I'll have to tie them down after the rigging is complete.
So here are the results...
 

 

 

Very nice work Peter ! 

Well, the railings are completed. It was a bit of a slog. The first coat of primer took 2 hours to apply to all the railings. Phew. That was a bit much, my neck and back told me. Thereafter I painted them in sections as they still wanted two coats of white. But now they're finished and I am pleased woth the results. Modelling will now take a back seat for a few months as summer is arriving and the outdoors and the yard call for some attention instead. I hope to putter with the ships boats during rainy days, whenever they happen. Cheers guys!
 

Hi All,
 
I have been busy in the shop of late due to the self isolation and making some progress. But boy, there is no rushing with a model ship so things are going slowly. I have been detailing some more of the main deck and added some fairleads and mooring bits here and there. I have also tackled the railings on the foc'sle and aft deck which went rather well considering. I tried my hand a soldering and it went so-so. In the end, I found that they didn't need it, and all is well seated without. I had intended to solder them so I could paint the railings off the model. But they looked so good without solder that I decided to paint them in situ. Therefore I had to tape off the stanchions at the base. Now the tedious painting begins. One coat of primer and two top coats. It took 2 hours for the first coat. Yikes. As mentioned earlier, model ship building is not done at lighning speed...
 

I just finished up the labour intensive work on the deadeyes on the main deck. It was a multi-step process that invoved some "metalwork". Billing supplies the chain plates and a bunch of plastic deadeyes. I opted to poach a bunch of deadeyes from another kit so as to use the chainpates that were provided. It would not have been easy to use them together. Once the chainplates and deadeyes were married, I used a drop of glue to make them rigid so as to paint them easier.
 
Here's a bunch of pictures showing the process...
 

After just about snapping off the bowsprit (several times) and the dolphin striker (once), it was time to take some preventative measures. I decided to "splint" the offending spar so as to avoid some dfficult repairs later on. Here is my solution. Once the bowsprit has some standing rigging in place, I can dispense with the milk carton.
 

Finally, here are some photos of the gunwale stanchions and trim along with the attachment of the foc'sle deck. I didn't think I would bother with the trim and stanchions but other builders of this model added them so I had to try and keep up. I have finally found a re-purpose for the styrofoam trays our meat gets packaged in. They are perfect for holding tiny fittings while they get painted!
What with the foc'sle deck being added, I had to afix the bowsprit in place. This made the model instantly longer by 8.5" so it is alot more susceptible to damage. Yikes!
 
 

Well, work has been progressing albeit slowly. The decks are finally all caulked and several layers of varathane applied. This is what they look like now...

Please continue to enjoy some of the latest pictures I have made in the past time. I am still learning and testing and I hope someday my model will be as good as the experts on this forum.
 
I used the motor of a broken mini drill with a motor alternating switch and motor speed regulator circuit to build this rope winding machine. On the surface it is uncertain, but it is quite adequate for wrapping small threads.
 

 

 

 

 

 
It took quite some time to tie the cannons, so now I can only tie up 4 cannons. Probably the end of this month to complete.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...
 

Hello friends
Currently in Vietnam is on the Lunar New Year holiday so I have time to spend with my ship, here's what I have done in having done so far, and I hope to finish all the cannons this vacation.
 

 

 
You are probably familiar with the movie "Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World" right, I am extremely impressed with the friendship and teamwork of the captain and the doctor so I made a violin, a Contrebasse and 4 swords of captain.
 

 

 

 
the hatch cover was a tough experience for me as it took me 10 hours to be able to punch holes in it.
 

 
However I am not satisfied with them yet, so I cut the decal into strands and then stick it on.
 

 

 
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This is all I work in a month, I think I did it faster than planned. Because I can only work on evenings and weekends and I intend to finish this ship within 5 months.
I use polymer clay to sculpt decorative motifs and use gold leaf to coat the exterior. This work seems more difficult than using alchemy paint but the finished product after gilding looks luxurious.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I started making the decks with using 1mm cardboard and decal, however in the process I forgot to look at the instructions so the deck was thinner than the kit. When using decal paper for flooring I think it is not really suitable if using water-based glue as it is not sticky, however this will be solved if I cut off the parts of decal that have direct contact continued with the details on the deck.
 

 

 
I used Master Pastel and water to accentuate the rivet details on the deck, however I still feel dissatisfied because it seems that the Master pastel that I use clings quite a bit to the floor color. seems a bit black compared to what I intended.
 

 

 

 
after making the decks I began to wrap the hull with 300gsm paper
 

 
I used Matit putty to fill the protrusions on the hull
 

 
I spent a lot of time with these details and I used the red color as shown in the instructions of the kit and with the help of my little angel finally finished coloring. She seemed to be interested in joining me in coloring :)).
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
And then there was a layer of 1mm cardboard, which hurt my fingers and it took me three nights to fully wrap the hull. however, the result is quite smooth.
 

 
 

 

 
I fixed the outer backbone with these studs because I don't think the glue is strong enough for this part.
 

 
Followed by the boatside on the left and right sides of the ship
 

 

 

 

 
I used this homemade tool to identify the submerged hull
 

 

 

 

 
I use metallic copper paper and an indentation tool (the main function is to make needle mark marks in leather) and it took me 3 consecutive nights to get it done. I use a glossy finish to protect the color from fading over time.
 

 

 

 

 
to be continued...