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Emma C Berry by Turangi - Model Shipways - 1:32


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I am starting to build this kit as my first foray into a POF model so bear with this beginner. I am included a picture of the box but not the contents as I neglected to take a photo. I probably won't do a step by step log as it will bore the more experienced members and much of it is self explanatory, instead I will concentrate upon my challenges and mistakes and will probably asking the experienced members frequently for Help! There is a rather impressive amount of wood which I did inventory and label by size and checked off all the other items.

 

I started by building the keel section per the plans and instructions and it was quite straight forward. I then hopefully correctly marked the frame locations on that assembly. I next turned to the building board, marked a center line and also the frame locations. Next I built the lofting jig for the frame installation and took pains to be sure it it was square and plumb to the board. I thought the frame was critical to the proper frame placement so went beyond the instructions by gluing and pinning the runners and added reinforcement to the rear of the frame. I also copied a metric ruler being sure it reproduced at 100% and glued it to the top of the jig, marked the centerline so I could transfer the measurements from the plans to the ruler on the frame, I think I wore out two pair of eyeglasses to be sure it was right😯. So it begins, I will endeavour to to present my problems and mistakes and hopefully a few successes. I suspect it will be slow going, like me at my age! Hope someone may find it useful or at least good for a laugh at my beginner mistakes. As always, any comments, suggestions or criticism would be very welcomed and appreciated!    

 

 

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I like this little model, so I’ll pull up a chair and follow along. Looks like you are off to a good start.

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You are off to a good start on your Emma C. Berry.  I like your build board and lofting jig.  These will be a great help as you move forward with your build.

Ryland

 

Member - Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

            - Ship Model Society of New Jersey

               - Nautical Research Guild

       

 

Current Build - Armed Virginia Sloop, 18th Century Longboat

Completed Build - Medway Longboat

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Time for an update, I started installing the frames and it was going swimmingly well until I reached frame #4. All the frames were installed per the instructions which emphasized that the need to be installed to the correct height above the baseboard to allow for a proper deck run.. I installed the port frame to the required height and it fell well above the rabbet so I added a shim down to the rabbet. On the starboard I added and extension to the top of the frame to meet the required height, neither worked out well. The rabbet at that point is a continuation of the top of the keel so it was not a layout or cutting error when I made the rabbet. I am now convinced the laser cut frame #4 is incorrectly cut as shipped on the matrix. It needs a few millimeters bore on the bottom end following the same curves. I have included a pic of the matrix and the frame is quite clearly cut to short. The correct course of action would be to tear both out and make new ones but I really don't have the expertise or tools to do that so I will think on it a while, perhaps shims will help? Any advice would be gratefully welcomed! This seems to be a known problem based upon post 27 in this build log 

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I seemed to have messed up the previous post, my computer skills are apparently about equal to my modeling skills! The first four frames attach directly to the keel assembly but the next several join in the middle and are glued to the top of the keel. This seemed a very weak area to me so for those that didn't have a laser cut "floor" included I reinforced the joint with strips of wood and added temporary to maintain the width. Hopefully they will not interfere with future bits to be installed, I couldn't see any issues on the plans but time will tell. An interesting issue, the building frame was too tall to support the top of the frames as I approached midship so I added another piece to accommodate the superior tops of the frames. I measured the width of the frames on the plans and made tic marks on the jig and also for the height, work quite well. One hint, the keelson rests upon t he frames above the keel so be sure to level and smooth that area, much easier before the frame installation than after as I learned!

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I have also started Emma C. Berry a short while ago. I am now ready to begin on the frame work. Thank you for pointing out the problems that you encountered at this phase. I shall try to keep them in mind to avoid the problems. I will watch with interest as you progress and maybe gain some insight what is to come...

     Current:         Emma C. Berry Lobster Smack-Model Shipways-1:32-1866

        Back on the shelf:    USS Essex- MS- "Old Yellow Box" Solid Hull  Wall Hanger (Half Hull)                                                                                                                                                                                              

   Completed:    18th Century Armed Longboat-MS 1/24

                          USN Picket Boat-MS 1864 1/24                                  

                          US Brig Syren by Sea Hoss- Model Shipways-1803

                          18th Century Carronade/Ship Section

                          Mayflower-Pilgrims Pride by Sea Hoss-Model Shipways-1620

                          18th Century Long Boat by Sea Hoss-Model Shipways

                          USS Constitution by Sea Hoss-Revel-Plastic

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  • 2 weeks later...

Time for an update on my snail's pace progress. I complete installing all the frames up to the point that the keelson attaches going up to the stern and thought it a good time to install the keelson. I checked all the frames prior to installing the keelson and found one seriously out of alignment, it was the one frame I experimented driving a brass pin through the frame and into the keel as I was rather concerned with the tenuous connection between the frame halves and the keel. The pin wandered off path and pulled the frame seriously out of alignment. I managed to remove and reset the frame without serious damage. I still suspect some shimming may be in my future for other areas.  

 

I test fitted the keelson and it was like a rocking horse, no doubt to my my improper sanding rather than a design defect. All frames were set to the proper height per the plans but the error was due to my improper finishing of the landing area for the keelson. At that point modifying the landing area on the frames was near impossible so I modified the keelson as seen in the photos by removing material as needed. I established the correct attachment level fore and aft for the the keelson and removed material as needed on the keelson to ensure a tight fit on the frames, seemed to work well. 

 

I used one hour setting epoxy to attach the keelson as I had no doubt I could not work fast enough using the 5 minute variety. I applied the adhesive to each frame/keelson juncture and also to the forward end of the keelson and used a brass pin at the aft end to secure it in addition to the epoxy. I used rubber bands in the middle to apply pressure. This was my first time using 1 hour epoxy and I was sure I had mixed it improperly while waiting for it to cure, I put it out in the hot sun and it cured rock hard! I am amazed how it made the structure so much more rigid and stable!

 

A couple of observations: this is my first POF build and I find it a quantum leap more challenging than my 2 previous builds! It teaches the importance of attention to detail!  It is completely enjoyable and sure gives me the greatest admiration for the members who scratch build POF models!!!!         

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  • 3 months later...

A long delayed update on this thread, I have been sidelined by some other issues. Unfortunately, in my working time I was more interested in building than taking photos and documenting the build but here are a few things I learned and a couple of tips (use them at your own peril from this relative neophyte)!

 

1. Take great pains to set all the frames at the correct height! I thought I had done so but a mm low or high crept in and sure made a difference. I spent some frustrating time sanding or shimming frames to achieve a relatively fair landing for planks and ceilings. In the photos you can see the deck beams laid are going to require some frame additions or subtractions on their upper ends. In setting the beams I took pains to be sure that they were level on both sides so the boat doesn't appear to be listing.

 

2. Setting the clamps: When setting the clamps I took a strip of sandpaper and placed it grit side to the frame between the clamp and frame in the approximate location and pulled it up and down to create a full contact surface before gluing the clamp, seemed to work well.

 

3. The wet well: I placed the lower logs using the supports going to the beam to ascertain the correct angle for the port and starboard logs before gluing them in place. I then attached the supports inside the logs when they should have been on the outside of the logs. Created a bit of an issue according to the plans but not major in my mind although the naval architects will probable be after my hide.

 

I thoroughly enjoyed building the cabin and bunks as well as as installing the soles and ceilings. I have only done the port side so far as I may leave some planks off the starboard hull to show the interior as show in the box photo. 

 

This has been a challenging project, as is said "don't sacrifice good for perfection". I am of an age I don't suspect I will ever remotely attempt or try to achieve perfection or even good, I'll accept decent at least in my eye and those of unsuspecting viewers. I am enjoying the build and I guess that is what we all want to do? 

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Edited by turangi
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Looking good. And you're quite right about enjoying the build rather than chasing perfection - that way madness lies!

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Glad to see you back working on ECB. Looking great! I've been adding to mine also, Will post progress soon.

     Current:         Emma C. Berry Lobster Smack-Model Shipways-1:32-1866

        Back on the shelf:    USS Essex- MS- "Old Yellow Box" Solid Hull  Wall Hanger (Half Hull)                                                                                                                                                                                              

   Completed:    18th Century Armed Longboat-MS 1/24

                          USN Picket Boat-MS 1864 1/24                                  

                          US Brig Syren by Sea Hoss- Model Shipways-1803

                          18th Century Carronade/Ship Section

                          Mayflower-Pilgrims Pride by Sea Hoss-Model Shipways-1620

                          18th Century Long Boat by Sea Hoss-Model Shipways

                          USS Constitution by Sea Hoss-Revel-Plastic

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  • 3 weeks later...

An update. I have continued doing painting on the interior and  progressing with the deck framing. I find framing the deck a very enjoyable task! I was concerned that the rather tenuous connections between the beams and clamps were very weak but as I installed the lodging knees it became a very strong and stable hull.

 

As to the lodging knees: I measured between the beams, cut the raw wood a bit oversize and sanded them down to a snug friction fit. I then took measurements from the plans for the concave areas, marked that area, cut it out with a fret saw and did a final sanding to smooth the cut area. I then placed them in position to determine the proper shape where they land on the clamp, cut that and once all was well I applied wood glue to them where they met the clamps and any frames. As they were a snug fit to the deck beams I applied thin CA to that joint, worked well.

 

I then moved on to other deck work, using directions  from the kit I planed the supplied wood for the fore and aft longitudinal beams to the correct size and installed them. I deviated from the the kit material for the intermediate athwart ship  beams and as suggested in another log and used the waste material from between the main beams in their matrix to construct them. As a previous poster mentioned the supplied intermediate beams do not match the camber of the main beams. The waste material is a bit wider than the supplied smaller beams but since it will all be covered by the decking I could see no issue.

 

All the beam to beam, carlin to beam, and lodging knee connections were done using a blind lap joint, the mortise filled with PVA glue and are very strong. The directions suggested a plain butt joint could be used but that seemed rather weak to me. It may seem a waste to spend so much time to be careful with the deck structure as it will be covered but I found it very enjoyable and the practice will probably help with any future builds. I may also leave an interesting section of the deck unplanked to reveal the structure.      

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Edited by turangi
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  • 3 weeks later...

A quick update. I have essentially completed the deck framing and moved on to planking. I used Chuck's method presented in his video to edge bend the planks and it worked a treat! Thanks Chuck. I didn't soak the planks but just applied a bit of water with a brush to the upper surface after they were clamped in position then used the iron, they were finished in minutes after I used a hair dryer on them after bending to completely dry them. When the edge bending was done I used the heat of the barrel of a plank bender to form the curve to meet the stem and stern at the proper angle. The planks were secured with medium CA and it seemed to work well not withstanding the ongoing debate about the proper adhesive. I chose to plank one complete side of the model despite advice sometimes seen to place one plank on each side alternately to avoid possible frame movement problems. I choose to do this as I intend to leave off some planks for a view of the wet well on the opposite side and that job seems a bit fiddly so I thought a bit of practice on the fully planked site was wise. As I had installed the deck beams and ceiling the whole structure is quite rigid and the properly bent planks required virtually no stress on the frames. I am fair pleased with the result so far.  

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Edited by turangi
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  • 4 weeks later...

This old snail has made a bit of progress. I have finished the planking and installed the covering boards. I left a gap as others have done to enable a view of the wet well, after the hull is painted I will add a couple of bare planks to illustrate a rebuild in process. My next step is to smooth the hull using cabinet scrapers, a technique learned from others on this forum and used successfully on my previous build. I then do a light sanding, fill any gaps, scrape again, seal the hull and do a light final sanding and then apply paint. A few pictures. 

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Edited by turangi
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  • 2 weeks later...

A bit more progress to report. The hull has been sanded, filled then sealed so I turned my attention to some of the deck work prior to planking the same. I constructed and installed the coamings for the hatches and wet well, they were quite straight forward tapering each to meet the deck planking so no photos. I turned my attention to the cabin coaming and the plans called for 1/8" stock with a 1/16" rebate to accept the cabin sides flush. I initially tried planing the stock at a 45 degree angle and then cutting out the waste by hand, that didn't work out well. The best laid plans of men and mice apparently came into play.

 

I then struck upon the idea of using a 1/16" piece of wood in front of the 1/8" stock as a guide for my blade. It worked wonderfully. I cut one side and turned the stock over to cut the other side, I am very pleased! As you will see in the photos I used a disposable scalpel for the cuts, these were recommended on this forum and are wonderful inexpensive tools, I like them much more than hobby knife blades for cuts in small wood. 

 

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Edited by turangi
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I have moved on to installing the deck. I find it an enjoyable process with a couple of issues, as usual the lesson is delivered after the test was given as we used to say in the fire service. First problem was that I stained all the planks prior to installation thinking that I would smear some glue on their tops making staining difficult to obtain a reasonably consistent color. Of course, some were a tiny bit thicker than others so sanding and refinishing is in my future to achieve a smooth deck. Second issue is that I used permanent black marker on the plank edges to simulate caulking. It seems the CA glue I am using to fasten the planks is a perfect solvent for permanent marker and any squeeze-out resulted in a purple blob, I did learn to be very judicious in adhesive application! I did install one plank that turned out to be be a bit narrow in width and didn't look right so I tore it out and replaced it. I am not sure I am too keen on the color, but I am using what I have on hand as due to the pandemic, my age and other conditions I am not too willing to haunt hobby shops or hardware stores to look for alternatives. I also pre-painted the coamings, covering board and the cabin base prior to planking.

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Edited by turangi
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As anticipated I had to scrape and sand the deck as mentioned previously. My intent was to restain it but I admit I rather like like the look now. To me it looks like a worn deck undergoing repair and refinish. I am tempted to just leave it as is with perhaps a colorless sealer applied. I would welcome any and all opinions or suggestions!

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I have cast the die and decided to leave the deck as pictured and did some work on the king plank to match the deck. I am currently working on the open frames and experimenting to make them look like planks are being replaced due to damage after many seasons at sea.  Pictures will follow whether my experiments are successful or a total failure. I see some weathering in my future.

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I think that's a good decision. I've always stained my decks to the dark side, just liking the look of them. But looking at photos of tall ships, including the Victory, the decks, while clean, have a very sun-bleached and natural look to them. Yours look fine. In fact, if you use a sealer, I'd make sure it's a matt finish; you just don't see shiney decks on old ships.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A bit more progress to report. I started work on the cabin and must admit it I enjoy working on these sub-structures. The plans called for the beams to be mortised into the 1/16" cabin sides and with some trepidation I actually accomplished that, perhaps a 1/32" mortise? I only slipped with my scalpel once and after I stemmed the bleeding with minimal blood loss I carried on and completed the task. The beams seemed rather fragile and you will notice that I doubled the last beam aft before the cabin entrance wall to accept the fore an aft beams as I thought it needed some extra strength for those connections. I then planked the roof, installed the hatch runners and am pleased with the results. Very sturdy after the roof was installed! Probably off to the paint shop tomorrow. 

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Edited by turangi
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Looks great, you're doing a tremendous job!

     Current:         Emma C. Berry Lobster Smack-Model Shipways-1:32-1866

        Back on the shelf:    USS Essex- MS- "Old Yellow Box" Solid Hull  Wall Hanger (Half Hull)                                                                                                                                                                                              

   Completed:    18th Century Armed Longboat-MS 1/24

                          USN Picket Boat-MS 1864 1/24                                  

                          US Brig Syren by Sea Hoss- Model Shipways-1803

                          18th Century Carronade/Ship Section

                          Mayflower-Pilgrims Pride by Sea Hoss-Model Shipways-1620

                          18th Century Long Boat by Sea Hoss-Model Shipways

                          USS Constitution by Sea Hoss-Revel-Plastic

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