minimini

Another small update.  After retrying the decals I had two problem; first the colour of the decals just do not show up against the brown (a known issue apparently but I thought I would try), and after trying that I found the wheel had 'roughened' again.  I put the latter issue down to using the water on acrylic paint/gloss when trying to apply the decals.  The photo show the wheel having been redone - please remember the rim is only 1mm wide and 12mm in diameter (OD).
 

 
I have decided that even PE will be difficult at this scale (to etch that is) so we have decided to leave this small detail off.  i think there is enough detail to make the steering arrangement look OK?  Yep - I know - a real 'cop out'.  If I get time I may revisit this when I do the PE for the brass work on the skylights.
 
The following photos show the companing and steering position dry fitted.  In hindsight, I think we opted for a slightly too large rear bench but it will have flag lockers fitted on top of it either side of the wheel and we needed sufficient width to allow for that.  The red 'pull' cord is for igniting the powder via the adapted gunlock on the Common Service Lifebuoy on the transom - this then provided the smoke and/or the flare (night) in the upper pan of the lifebuoy.  nThe black handle is a 'twist to release' for the lifebuoy.  In later times, these two controls were combined.
 
  

 
One remaining issue is to determine what the most probable configuration for the mizzen boom crutch.  The boom extends beyond the transom, and in the photograph of the crew on the quarterdeck, it shows the boom, when in its stowed position, lies to 'port' of the ensign staff.  Unfortunately, as can be seen from the earlier photo of the wheel, it is impossible to make out the configuration of the crutch support.  At the moment I am tempted to have it secured to the transom using the roughtree timber immediately to the left of the centreline and using the back edge of the bench as one of the vertical supports (a hole drilled in the bench).  What I cannot decide for this configuration, is whether any supporting struts would have been required or simply a supporting upper bracket near the top of the roughtree timber.  The next outboard roughtree timber (with the notch in the rail) is for one of the rear davit arms.
 
An alternative is have the crutch with tripod style support configuration, free standing in front of the bench but I think that would be in the way of the helm (not that the crutch would be there when the wheel was manned).  The issue with the first configuration is that the crutch would be in the way of working the boat; but, again the boom, and therefore the crutch, would have had to be moved out of the way before working the boat anyway.
 
Opinions and suggestions eagerly sought
 
cheers
 
Pat

Today I glued the keel onto the frames.   You want to have a cup of water and a paint brush handy before you begin.  This is used to clean the excess glue from the joints after the keel is placed on top of the frames.  Before you begin, make sure that all of the frames are facing the correct direction.  The lettered frames face one way and the numbered frames face the other way.  I also recommend tat you do a few dry test runs before using the glue.  We are basically starting with the stern half of the frames first.  Practice placing the keel into position.  You will quickly discover that all of the frames are not lined up perfectly with their intended notches in the keel.  You will need yo work them in one direction or the other until the keel slips into all ten notches. 
 
Doing a few dry test runs will let you know which frames you will need to tend to once the glue is added.  Dont rush it.  You will have plenty of time to do this and tweak each frame if need be.  I found it easier to place a generous dab of glue on the end of the frames rather than in each slot of the keel.  Once seated properly clean off the excess glue and leave it to dry.
 

Once that dries, it will be time to slide the forward ten frames under the keel and repeat the same process.  Absolutely do a dry run with this.
 

Once that glue dries, flip over the model and tape the two halves of the build board together along the joint.  DONT glue it.  Use a generous length of tape and several pieces.  I like to use the reinforced tape with the string in it for added strength.
 

Then its time to fair the hull.  Its somewhat fragile as many of you who have built the other models like this will attest.  But it is pretty sturdy.  Use either 320 or 220 grit sand paper to fair the hull.  I wouldnt use a coarser grit because it will grab the frames and possibly split them etc.  But use a light touch and proceed slowly and carefully just like you would with any other fairing.
 
Here is my model after it was completely faired.  You can use the laser char on the edge of each frame as a guide as you continue fairing as well.


I mentioned earlier how another builder familiar with this type of model gave me a building tip.  He said to use the tape on each side of the frame to help strengthen it while you fair  the hull.  I can report that it was a big help and I recommend that you guys do it as well.  In addition, because so many people have built the pinnace , the original longboat or the barge, I have had many other tips and experiences shared.  One additional tip was really good.  In the photo below you can see a small 3/32" wide by 1/32" strip glued to each frame where the attachment is.  This is usually where the frame would break if you are a heavy-handed sander.  The scrap strip was glued with tite-bond.  It really made it sturdy and I didnt worry at all about splitting the little tab connecting the center of the frame.  Once I was done fairing the hull,  they were removed using either of these two methods.  You can apply some rubbing alcohol and let it just fall off with a little coaxing.  You could also just leave it there.  There will be a plank covering it inside and out and it wont be seen.  Just keep it to 3/32" wide or less.  It wont make it any more difficult to remove the frame centers later on.  I just used this strip on the five single frames but you could do it on all of them.  But its up to you.  I faired the hull with no breakage.  
 

 
Now its time to line off the hull and start planking!!!!!  YIPPEE 
 
 

Is it possible that there is more detail here than in the full scale version!?!!  11 out of 10! 

Thanks for the kind comments.
 
Cut in the deck for a view into Officer's cabin.
 
Karl

 
 

Hello and thank you all for your comments and likes,
 
I was not very busy the last week, but I made the hawse hols with the linings and bolsters.
 

 
 
The next things are the trail boards between the cheeks. I have a trail board, all in ocker but only the little dragon in green, in my mind. I saw it somewhere, but I did't find that picture again. If anyone has that picture, or know where I could find it, tell it. 

Hello,
 
and thank you all for your likes.
Today I finished the long feared paint job  I do not like it very much, but to the end my hands get more calm and I think the result is not sooo bad 
 
At one of the pictures with the cheeks not painted, you may have seen that the left one was a little higher than the right one. That came because the treenail was in a wrong hole. I saw it first at the picture and went immediately down into the basement to see what had happens, but all is ok. 
 

 

 

 

 
And here you see why I do not like the job very much, it's all so small.
 

 

Ciao a tutti, 
Ho realizzato lo scaletto e sinceramente è stato abbastanza difficile essenzialmente per due motivi.
Il primo motivo: l'utilizzo della linea del ponte per realizzare la dima di pontuale per i riferimenti delle coste e la seconda dima per il cassero sovrapposta alla precedente.
Il secondo motivo: il disegno in pianta del ponte, questa misura non tiene conto del cavallino del ponte, quindi se avessi utilizzato questo disegno senza le dovute modifiche delle quote in lunghezza avrei ottenuto sulla dima di pontuale con una sagoma più corta di circa 5mm.
Alcune foto dello scaletto.
Se notate da una parte ho messo il disegno con la chiglia a pari e nell'altra foto si vede quanto il disegno è stato allungato.
 
Hi everyone, I realized the ladder and honestly it was quite difficult essentially for two reasons. The first reason: the use of the bridge line to create the pontic template for the rib references and the second template for the formwork overlapping the previous one. The second reason: the plan drawing of the bridge, this measure does not take into account the pony of the bridge, so if I had used this design without the due changes in the dimensions in length I would have obtained on the pontual template with a shorter shape of about 5mm. Some photos of the ladder. If you notice on one side I put the design with the keel on the same level and in the other photo you can see how long the design has been stretched



Dima di pontuale finita

Scaletto



Qui ho posizionato la dima del cassero



Un Salutone a presto

Another small update:
I have progressed the wheel and standard a little further having painted the brass wheel.  The paint to the eye looks smooth but it is very uneven when photographer so close up (noting the rim is only 1mm wide, and the wheel 14mm tip to tip).  The paint is burnt sienna acrylic with a glaze made from varnish and wood stain.  It looks pretty close to the wod used in the standard.
 
One of the photos also shows all the parts ready to be assembled; including some decals I made.  The decals were a dismal failure though as against the brown they just don't show up.  I think I will have to paint the brass plates onto the rim of the wheel after all   With my shaky hands they won't look too flash!  Work in progress so to speak.  I am not sure yet whether to try and further smooth the paint on the wheel; as i said - to the eye it looks OK. 
 
  
 
In the meantime the main companion has been completed; including the ironwork supporting the crutch for the main boom. I have included a close up extract from the quarterdeck photo as a comparison for what we have made.  The legs supporting the crutch look a little oversize but these are less than 1mm diameter so near impossible for my fat hands to get smaller unfortunately - again the close-up photography makes it look rougher than it looks to the eye (the ironwork).
 
  

 
 
cheers
 
Pat

I finished the second keel assembly today.  You can see the differences.  You will note that before gluing the transom into position I added the bolts for the lap joints on the keel.  There are once again several way to do this depending on your tastes.  The bolts would have been copper but I dont like the look of shiny copper on a model.  So I am using 20lb black fishing line.  It works very well.  You could substitute 22 gauge copper wire if you wish.  The bolts are only simulated in that they dont go all the way through.   You can of course do that as well.  But rather than risk the drill bit wandering, I decided to just drill shallow holes that were filled with the black mono-filament.   Then I used a straight razon to shave the excess away flush with the surface.  I sanded it with 320 grit sandpaper.  Then applied some wipe on poly.
 
Feel free to ask any questions.
 
Next I will glue the keel onto the frames and start fairing the frames for planking.
 




 
 

I think she will be a pretty longboat.  If you recall,  there will be two options for assembly of the three keel parts.  The simpler version has the parts simply butt together and that is fine.  But for those who want to try a bit more ambitious joint, there will be some laser cut parts prepared with the beginnings of some lap joints.
 
I Have not removed any laser char from these pieces before "carving" and completing the lap joints.  In the photo below you can two of each part.  One shows the lap joint as prepared by the laser cutter.  The laser can not etch deep enough to complete the lap joint.  But you have the area laid out with precision so you only need to make it deeper.  You can remove the material until it is half the thickness on each side of the lap joint.  There are multiple ways you can do this depending on your skill level and what tools you have.  You could use a sherline mill for example.  In my case however,  I opted for the cheap yet effective sharp #11 blade.  I slowly sliced off little shavings until it was close to the correct depth.  Then I used a sanding stick to clean it up.

Periodically, I stopped shaving and slicing to check how the lap joints fit together.  The two photos below show the two lap joints test fit together.  Just a little more to do and clean up and I have it.  One thing I would caution you on is not to rush it.  Dont get "close enough" and then think you can sand the outsides flush after you glue them together.  This would be very bad.  You would see the weird twisted shape that would develop and the other slotted keel parts wouldnt fit onto it properly and that error of impatience would snowball as your project moves forward.  Keep in mind that these are extreme close-ups.....you can really see the wood grain.  But once the finish is applied....that will disappear.  I will take photos again once the remaining pieces are added and the bolts are added.  ut after the glue dries on these three parts,  I will sand the laser char from the edges and clean it up.
 


 
and once again, here is a comparison of the two options for assembling the three keel sections.  The slotted parts will be added as soon as I clean it all  up.  You might also notice my change to the stern post so the model will use the more historically accurate method to attach the rudder.  The older photo is below and those changes arent shown.
 

 

A bit of a milestone.  All of the frames are completed and assembled.  I have not applied any wipe on poly yet, but will do so before gluing the keel  into position.  I am holding off because I want to build the second version of the keel assembly with the actual lap joints.  That is the one I will actually use.  So I should have an update soon with those details.  But for now...I have tested all of the frames and all fits well.  The photo below shows the simpler keel assembly dry fit.  Hopefully you can get a sense of the hull shape now and the graceful sheer.  Because this is an early longboat it has a much more pleasing shape than the other Long boat model I made.  I have gently flipped it "right-side-up" in the build board so you can hopefully see the sheer and shape better.
 
Once I complete the other keel and glue it to the frames....fairing and planking can begin.  Its coming together quickly.  In fact,  other than the plans,  this will constitute the starter package as seen in the photos.  Everything you need to get this far.
 
If you have any questions let me know.
 



 
 

I am not sure yet if I will.  But yes at this scale it is certainly a possibility.  On a fully planked hull they would be very hard to see however.  So I may hold off and just give it a try on the partially planked version.
 
One thing I forgot to mention in my previous post which is very important,  is not to forget to sand off the laser char on the two piece frames.  But not the whole thing....
 
Just remove the char from the tips of the floors and the top timbers as shown below.   This will be difficult to do later. Doing it before you assemble the frames is best.  Just be careful not to break away the frame center from the top timbers.  The remaining char is best removed when fairing the hull as it can be used to help you see certain areas that need more fairing before planking.  
 

 

Cannons ready assembled.
Karl
 
Part 32

Bank of the officers.
Karl

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.
 
Anyway,  progress continues.
 
One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.
 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.
 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!
 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.
 
I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.
 
In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php
 
 
 

.

Few years ago when I decided to try cherry  wood instead of pearwood, it was not clear if
this wood was suitable for the task. In Europe, pear wood is a common tree, in Canada, pear wood is very expensive, but cherry wood is very much affordable. Workability of pear and cherry woods are very similar. For planking, pear wood is often use but it has no grain pattern. At the opposite, cherry wood has many grain patterns but not all of them are suited for the task, especially when the grain runs perpendicular to the length of the plank.
 
If we understand this  simple rule : ‘’The grain pattern must runs parallel to the length of the plank’’,  then I believe that cherry wood can be a good choice for the model ship builders.

Mark 
A master, no just lucky
Christian
no but I have access to one where I only pay for the materials I cut , plus 10 $ per hour
 
My building board is finished and the same are the 8 angle braces


next one on the list is to cut some wood on my new table saw

 
Michael

hello Antony
Yes, that's also one of the things I've been worried about, so I'm looking at this table

Michael
 

hello Antony
Yes, that's also one of the things I've been worried about, so I'm looking at this table

Michael
 

Michael

Hi Michael.
That's one super sized ship.
I love the shape of the bulkhead you got wrong. But you got it geometrically similar.
 
Nice building board. But with a model that size you need a table like Gaetan uses See link below.
https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15340-74-guns-ship-by-gaetan-bordeleau-124/&page=4
Will save your back. with all that twisting and trying to get into difficult places.
 
This is a must follow for me.
Regards Antony.

Mark 
A master, no just lucky
Christian
no but I have access to one where I only pay for the materials I cut , plus 10 $ per hour
 
My building board is finished and the same are the 8 angle braces


next one on the list is to cut some wood on my new table saw

 
Michael

Hi All
just a little update , before i start the model i have decided to make a build table it is made of 18mm beech ply  700mm wide 2000mm long (sorry for the bad picture)


All the bulkheads ( 32 ) and the 9 pieces that make up the stem I post some picture in a few days. out of the 32 bulkheads I only mess up one

Michael

Hi All
Now after 6 weeks of high sunshine, where time has been spent outdoors, it now  time for a little update.The first picture shows my work table without any mess, it will probably be the last time it will happen.
picture 2 and 3 show The three section bulkhead shapes and 13 out of the 32 bulkheads and last but not least some of  the wood I received from Jason from Crown Timberyard last week.


It's only when you stand with the part between your hands you get an idea how big this model will be , the ruler is 100 cm long and the 2 bulkheads in the middle are 41 cm wide.

Michael
 

Mark 
A master, no just lucky
Christian
no but I have access to one where I only pay for the materials I cut , plus 10 $ per hour
 
My building board is finished and the same are the 8 angle braces


next one on the list is to cut some wood on my new table saw

 
Michael