flyer
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Those scuppers (one is slightly larger for the pump dale) look quite acceptable. I think they were lead or copper lined; I painted them a dark copper. Scuppers placed according B.E.’s research. Thank you! The main wale needs some smoothening The main top has now mizzen topmast- and topgallant stay added. According Lees the mizzen topgallant stay is hitched to the after side of the main stay. I find this a strange way to belay a stay but at least it is easily done. Main top with mizzen topgallant- and topmast stay
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Hi Bummer Of course I am quite proud if you find something helpful in my log. Especially as I see that you are following B.E.’s excellent build as well. About the chain plates: I widened them at the neck with a flat tool (screwdriver) until I could enter the deadeye and closed them careful again with a pincer. Just follow Goethe‘s Erlkönig: „Und bist du nicht willig, so brauch’ ich Gewalt.“ Cheers Peter
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Hi David I’m glad if I can be of any help. Same ways as others are for me. Cheers Peter
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Thank you Bummer. It is necessary for a good result as about a felt 90% of those ships are rigging. Peter
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Hi B.E. Thank you very much for your help and the extra information about the pump dales. Those little pieces come in different sizes and I can easily use a bigger one. And I will gladly use your example for the longitudinal placing of the scuppers. The height will be taken from their function and will be just a bit below the level of the main deck. On my Pegasus this will be similar to yours - just above the main wale. cross-section of a scupper by Wolfram zu Mondfeld. Regards Peter
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OK, Amati was right, I was wrong (again). There are in fact 2 different sizes of rigging hooks and I used the wrong (bigger) one for the futtock shrouds. Fortunately it’s hardly noticeable but other builders should difference between rigging hooks and futtock shrouds hooks. The hooks on the futtock shrouds are the wrong, slightly larger variant Meanwhile work continued on the mizzen topmast. The shrouds and backstays were done according to the plans but I wasn’t happy with the way the topmast stay was depicted on the plans. It was rigged in a similar way to the main topmast stay but according James Lees it should be different. Of the various possibilities shown in his book I choose one which was possible for the year Pegasus was built and which I did like because it would set up the 3 stays on the mizzen in parallel. (Perhaps my inner housekeeper tidying up?) Backstays The mizzen topmast stay leads up through a 5mm single block at the bibs and is set up in the main top When sorting through my toolbox’s electric compartment I came across those small tubes which are used to fix the ends of small copper cables when connecting them by connector blocks instead of smoldering. I think the smallest should make fine scuppers – at least the test sample looks OK. For the position of the scuppers I will shamelessly copy from another fine Pegasus (thank you, B.E.!). What I found in my toolbox... ...should make nice scuppers. The outer tube diameter is 1, 5 mm or about 10 cm when converted to the prototype. I think this fits.
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A small step is completed: All the lower shrouds are installed and the work moves now 1 floor up. The catharpins were changed. The 0.7 rope according plan is too thick- 0.5 is right (catharpins are smaller than the associated shrouds). the catharpins size should be about 0.7 of the shrouds After seeing B.E.’s Pegasus and its capstan in these pages mine was asking for a change. I took HMS Pandora’s as an example. (Pandora is only about 2 years younger than Pegasus.) The top was modified and covered with a metal sheet. I choose brass instead of copper because I believe this was mainly used. The capstan will undergo further modifications and be placed on a step instead of directly on the deck. Old capstan right out of the box Capstan under renovation: The brass cover is already dirty and the bosun is calling for some seamen to clean it.
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Hi Frank Glad to hear the restoration work on you went well. Let’s hope they turned you out as good as new and not in such a weathered state as your (lovely) old boat. Take care Peter
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Hi Michael This is a really outstanding build and your ship has some of the very catching atmosphere you feel in the Vasa museum. Excellent! Cheers Peter
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Hi Aldo OK, you got me with your 1th of April upgrade kit. Great work then, if not by Amati, by you! And I didn’t mean interior electrical lightning, just real windows. With those already demonstrated surgical skills I wouldn’t fear for the patient. Cheers Peter
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Thank you, Aldo. Sometimes I think those vessels consisted of more than 90% manila. Cheers Peter
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Hi Aldo Once again I had a look at your Pegasus and find I must use more foul words while working on mine. I would like to challenge you to use even more foul words while reworking your great cabin and provide it with some real light. Did you notice how B.E. made improvements there? I like that and shouldn’t such a greatly improved quarter badge as yours is allow a real glimpse into the interior of the cabin? Take care Peter
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Hi B.E. Thank you. And in the process of reworking the collar I had a good look at the bow again and decided to rework it a little. I left off the gold decorations on the bow rails initially because I thought it to much. Now after seeing the overall impression of the bow I decided to rework the rails with a bit of filler and to install the decorations. The new look is more delicate and I like it. Hi Dave Again: merci vöumou. (For foreigners: That means thank you very much in our elegant native tongue.) Hi Frank Thanks again; and I agree: Sites like this greatly enhance our hobby. You all take care! You hear me there? peter
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Hi Frank It’s truly wonderful how you can show us that smelly old boat so full of live. A really amazing build! Cheers Peter
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The mainstay collar was indeed rigged wrongly. I cut it off and had to make a new (longer) one. Now that hole has a purpose and all looks better. Those two seem content with the new mainstay collar
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Hi Dave You are of course completely right (unfortunately). And I was wondering about that hole but forgot again about it. This means I will make a new collar. But thank you very much for telling me! It will still be rather easy now to correct that mistake. Cheers Peter
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Hi B.E. Thank you. I did some more research on boomkins and found that they should be reworked a bit. Right now they lead a few mm above the bow head rail where in fact they should lay on it. On some vessels they seem to be held with an iron band or a lashing onto the rail. Now I understand that in fact they can be just bolted to the bow with their inboard end and are fixed onto the head rail with the boomkin shrouds thus having a stable 2-point fixing. Cheers Peter
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In the mean time ratline knitting is going on and the lower masts are nearly finished. Also the first futtock shrouds are in place. The hooks seem a bit large on top of the futtock shrouds – amati is using one single size of hooks for the whole ship. The topmast deadeyes are fixed in the platform with a drop of glue. I don’t want the pull from the topmast shrouds onto the lower shrouds displacing them. The boomkins were made according to the plan only 7 mm longer. I didn’t trust the method to fix them with a hidden nail and some glue. A hole was drilled into the bow to feed the boomkin trough. This is more stable and I think also like the real thing? Mizzen top Main top Hole for the boomkin Boomkins provisionally in place. As they are likely to brake off, they will be fixed later.
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Hi Andy Nice work on the mast! If you use the solution with the tendon and fix the parts with epoxy glue you end up with something as strong as one made from a single thicker piece. No problem there. To make my spare spars I ordered some square stuff – and it worked like a dream. That’s to say where the grain was ok. Some stuff had too coarse a grain and produced junk. Yesterday I flew into Montreal again and I must tell you that you have to work on your temperatures – they are definitely below standard! (According the definition of the standard atmosphere you should have some +15°C but you were 30°C below that!) Nevertheless there were 2 ships steaming upriver from Quebec despite some ice still on it. I guess you will start your sailing season 2013 soon? Take care Peter
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
flyer replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Hello Doris Absolutely marvelous work! I feel privileged to watch a true artisan at work. Thank you. I had a look at your finished models and I’m stunned again. Questions: What material do you use for the sails – paper or fabric? And how do you the make the sails – are you painting and gluing or sewing? Cheers Peter- 881 replies
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Hi Mobbsie Thank you; there are a few to come. Shipyard work is slow because there was some work for money asking for priority. Take care Peter
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Hi David Thank you! And... Ship building in Vegas, in the middle of the desert? I look forward to that! Cheers Peter
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Hi Andy Nice to have you on shore for once! Yes, the assortment of spare spars is the result of looking through a heap of my clever books and should be reasonable (perhaps they would have more spars at the beginning of a voyage but, you know…). That’s a good trick for the handrail. You could use it also for hammock nettings etc. Thank you. Take care Peter
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The work on the futtock shrouds was started… And I had one of those moments we all like that much: gradually I realized that I made a big mistake, that the port ratlines on the mainmast were the mirror image of the correct thing and I’m in the process of doing 4 out of 5 anew. Upper part still wrong, lower part corrected. (This ends the repetition of the build log up to the crash/restart. Progress will be real time now and therefore a tiny little bit slower.)
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Another task is the making of the spare main topmast. I got some square walnut strip from Cornwallmodelboats to work with. As expected it is much easier (for me) to start working with compared to dowels if you have spars with prominent square or octagonal sections. I already made a spare main topsail yard of a 4mm square strip but this strip proved too soft and had a too rough grain – I will have to redo it. But making the Yard with a square strip was easy and quickly done: cut the corners to make it octagonal, put it into a lathe (or the electric drilling machine in my case) and work the ends into the correct conical round shape, finished in 10 minutes! I think kit makers should consider using more square strips instead of dowels. Finished spare main topmast… …in its place. (Here were some remarks about vacations in Florida, sunshine and good food which I don’t repeat. But I must mention the fine mojitos we had and will give hearty ‘cheers’ to Sir Francis Drake)
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