flyer
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*@*!!#§* :mellow: While working on the main top mast the question about the stability of the mizzen topmast has been answered definitely. Not the way I hoped. First I thought about repairing the mast by ‘fishing’ it but the remaining length below the top was insufficient (this would have been an interesting project). Then while dismantling the mast I asked myself if I could save the cap and replace only the part above it mortising it with the lower part within the cap. But I thought this not stable enough and the cap was broken apart to be able to take out the lower topmast (the whole mast assembly was fixed with epoxy glue and cannot be dissolved without destruction). The remaining question now is if I should also replace the mizzen top according B.E. research with a larger one. This would be a lot of work and I will have time to think about it while making the new topmast.
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The main topmast is now fully rigged. Once again the principle of starting the standing rigging low and aft (at the mizzen) and working forward starting then again aft with the mizzen top mast proves its worth. That way you have access to the tops where you have to rig up stays and preventers. Last work on the backstays Foretop with stay and preventer Finishing work on the foot of the preventer stay Main topmast
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Hi Michael Every time I look at your wonderful Wasa I want to build mine again… It’s really a gem you are building with the same kit I put together just by the book many years ago. About your personal ramblings… As long as your civil wars stays civil just try to enjoy your travels. One of the Star Alliance Members is paying for my hobby (and the living) after all and I really like those frequent customers traveling in comfort! My wife dreads the time (not so far away) of my retirement and having me at home and underfoot all the time. I will have to travel then occasionally just to give us some breathing space. We do have a wonderful partnership but we are accustomed to have and value also some time on our own. Wives are always right…. Take care Peter
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Hi Andy You must serve some quality (Swiss?!) cheese on your Pegasus to attract such a quality mouse. Nice. Perhaps you could just round out the aft edge a bit. I think the mouse was originally built up with ropes and threads and therefore shouldn’t have too sharp an edge. Here is how Wolfram zu Mondfeld builds his mouse. He uses thread but I think wood with a somehow roapy texture would be fine as well. Me, I am too lazy for all this and just use a asymmetric figure-of-eight-knot to simulate a mouse. Cheers Peter
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Bonjour Adeline Merci. I got the crew figures (25mm height) via http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/amati_crew.html They come in cast metal in the raw and you have to paint them. Cheers Peter
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Hi Andy Quite well hidden, ain’t it? Hi B.E. Thanks. Yes, James Lees gives the same information about the lift, but, as you, I like it better that way. (I pretend to have had a rather old fashioned bosun when fitting out Pegasus.) And yes, I still have hope although it’s rather difficult to continue rigging work with crossed fingers. Cheers Peter
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Hi Aldo Well, thank you – but that topmast looks a bit ‘minty’ and I’m not yet sure if it has to be replaced anyway after all… Cheers Peter
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Hi Frank Thank you. I’m still waiting for some barnacles to grow on Pegasus but perhaps its too dry. Cheers Peter
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Hi Andy Great looking shrouds! I especially like the serving (which I avoided so far because of sheer laziness). About the way the shroud is taken around the deadeye: I’m afraid I did it exactly the same way as you – the wrong way. James Lees actually tells us that it should be clockwise on both sides of the ship. I will leave mine wrong as they are but will correct that on the next build. You fix your lanyards initially only with a half hitch to leave room for adjustments. That’s sensible. Additionally I also leave a few cm of extra length on all the shrouds and stays until everything on one mast is attached and adjusted. The knots and lashings are only fixed with diluted white glue which can be dissolved again with a little water in case a deadeye has to be shifted. Only when all the rigging is standing are the ends trimmed and the lanyards fixed permanently. Cheers Peter
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Well Aldo... While working on the ratlines of the main topmast I realized that I forgot the jeer blocks for the main yard. Fixing them after the topmast shrouds required something like a minimal invasive operation. And… ...promptly I broke off the top of the completely rigged mizzen topmast. After some censured expressions (no fun) I fixed it with epoxy glue and a 0.5mm brass wire in the center of the mast. It’s hardly visible (except for a very slight bend) and I hope it will hold. Lashings for the starboard jeer block Both jeer blocks in place
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Hi Aldo Thank you. Yes, I’m looking forward to that great feeling (I’m not yet there by about 30%) but… …afterwards waits the dreaded sail making which is even more cumbersome with the stitching on of the bolt rope by hand. But I forgot – I’m doing this by my own free will! Aren’t we jolly masochists, altogether? Cheers Peter
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Hi B.E. No problem with the niggling – I will do it myself the next 60 years or so, whenever I look at Pegasus’ mizzen top. Couldn’t you just rebuild only that one on your ship? Cheers Peter
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Hi Frank It’s nice to hear from you and even to get compliments from a barnacle – encrusted experienced shipbuilder! Thank you. Take care Peter
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Hi B.E. You are right. I didn’t question the platform dimensions. But now I had a look at Granados mizzen top and it is much closer to your calculated figures. I think that you will eventually rebuild that top according to what you calculated. All the lubbers will be happy and I will learn to live with a mistake in my Pegasus. That’s one of the drawbacks of building yourself: You know and remember every little built in fault. Oh yes, I did look at remco’s log and am stunned. What an artist! Regards Peter
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Hi B.E. Thank you for the compliments. And that was an interesting question about the mizzen top! I wondered how Steven Maturin would find his way up there. On larger ships, such as the Surprise, he was sometimes found in the mizzen top. But while on Ariel – which would be of a size similar to Pegasus – he seems only to have ventured the main top. Probably Patrick O’Brian was aware of the problem. The size of the square hole fits Lees’ description with 2/5 of the width of the platform. This gives us exactly those 13 mm we have. Also the size of the trestletrees seems adequate. Then I was asking myself what clearance we need to squeeze a lubber through. Manholes in aircraft wings are of the tightest I know and certainly not for lubbers. The smallest there are about 16’’ by 14’’ (or 40 by 35cm) – you shouldn’t be claustrophobic as an aircraft mechanic! If we now take those 35cm as an absolute minimum clearance this would give us 5.5mm on our Pegasus. With an opening of 35mm minus the mast of 3,5mm we have only about 5mm per side for clearing and trestletrees. Conclusion: There seems not enough space for a lubber’s hole in that mizzen top. They will have to use the futtock shrouds or stay below. Cheers Peter No place for lubbers… The bosun would anyway take the route via the futtock shrouds Much of the remaining clearance in the square hole is filled by ropes
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Hi Mobbsie Thank you. Already more than half of the ratline knots are done. Phew! Take care Peter
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Hi Mobbsie Don’t give up the ship! I think that’s a problem with those behemoths. Basically it’s the same work than on a, for example, Pegasus but much, much more of it. And if you hate repetitive work such a project is really tedious. You make me think about my next build (I would like a 74 or the Agamemnon) but perhaps it would be wiser to look for a frigate like the Diana, Surprise (???) or perhaps chucks Winchelsea if he could provide us somehow with the difficult parts. Take care Peter
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Ratline knitting continues on the main topmast. Checking the relative size of shrouds and stays I noticed that the shifting backstay according to the plan is too fat (how I feel with that poor rope!) as it should only be 0.7 of the associated shrouds and backstays. I took all threads one size smaller than on the plans. Looking at the finished stay on the picture I think perhaps the blocks could also be replaced by smaller ones. Main top taking shape Rather delicate shifting backstay but according James Lees
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Hi Andy, Well, there I was just a few days abroad and coming back I find that you have already half finished masting and rigging your Pegasus! You had a really impressing start into that sometimes exhausting chapter! Noticing that you use wood for mast bands I’d like to point to alternatives: Some use styrene stripes which handle perhaps easier and I prefer cartridge paper for all parts which where iron bands in the original. This handles easily and simulates iron quite well, even before coloring it. I’ll try some acrylic to smoothen my ropes – that seems a splendid idea. And you even have some time to improve your English! I will with all force try my swinglish minimum on the level yours canadinglish to hold. (Perhaps you know the story of that Alitalia pilot misunderstanding all his radio calls from New York tower, blundering across their airspace and making a mess of his flying until finally an unnerved controller told him: ‘Alitalia, before you come here again – learn some English!’ Then a very British voice cut into the frequency: ‘You call THAT English, sir?’) Cheers Peter
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But remember: Power tools also make your slips and errors faster much bigger – and so far I’m only talking about nicks in the wood. So, it’s your choice - do you want to live fast and furious or slow and gentle. (OK, OK, there are more options - like slow and furious etc.) Peter
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The standing rigging on the mizzen mast has been finished. Some small corrections were made: Quite obviously (also told by Lees) the royal stay and the royal backstays must be of the same size. I took .25 black threads for both. The mizzen topmast and royal stays have their upper end attached with a simple eye-splice instead of the more complicated version with a mouse. The later is used only on mizzen lower mast and main and fore lower masts and topmasts stays. Standing rigging on the mizzen finished lower mast Mizzen top Royal stay and backstay have the same size. Note the eye-splice – no mouse on the upper end crowsfeet
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Hi B.E. Hi Aldo Thank you. Cheers Peter
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Between the rigging work on the mizzen mast the reworking of the upper capstan continued. It was made without palls according to the model in Annapolis or the one on HMS Pandora. Capstan “out of the box” First try – room for improvement Finished version, mounted on a small step Once again I must say, that without all that information and input from MSW such small things wouldn’t be possible.
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Thank you Aldo, there is more….
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Hi B.E. I was just lucky to find them in my toolbox. You should get similar items in a good assorted hardware store in the electric/electronic department. I wish I would find some masts with the quality of those on your Pegasus in the toolbox as well… Cheers Peter
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