flyer
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Hi Martin Thank you very much. My real craft is flying which of course helps a lot when I tackle that flying horse. Cheers Peter
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Hi Mobbsie Thanks. Yes, this is the CC Granado. Somewhere I read that note about not having no boat at all as well and I cannot believe it. Would you go skydiving without a parachute? But that’s not the correct analogy – it’s not a lifeboat. But you would need it continuously for communication with the shore or to run all that little errands which come up all the time. If you put two boats on a vessel as tiny as Pickle you should allow at least a small one even when Granado is fitted out as bomb vessel. Cheers Peter
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Hi Frank Why am I not at surprised at all that your crew badly needs a washing day for their clothes? And are there really barnacles growing on some of the trousers? Love them – great job. Cheers Peter
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Hi B.E. Thank you for the compliment. After reestablishing normal disorder in my workshop (Now all my ship models are seeking shelter there because the complete reconstruction of our kitchen is not only affecting the eating habits but also the living room, where they usually berth. It has been transferred into’ living room – construction site – storage for kitchen utensils’.) I plan an thorough cleaning of Granado, to make some pictures and to put them into the gallery of finished ship models. Cheers Peter
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Hi Mike Thank you. As I’m presently abroad I will have to check the answers for some of your questions when back home in order not to tell you a lie. Also because of possible collateral damage of an extensive kitchen rebuild, which also affects the living room, my little workplace is cramped with ship models looking for shelter there. Anyhow I plan an extensive cleaning up of Granado (I like to show the models without display case and have to clean them every year or so) and plan to take some pictures afterwards to put them into the gallery of finished models. Well, I was simpleminded enough not to reduce any of the sails in size. That accounts for the still bulky look of most of them. Your idea about how to reduce the size seems fine. The most important point is to look again and again for some even finer cotton. I was lucky enough to find some I still like for the yarn count. But the seams (they were single seams, put on by a professional seamstress) still look out of scale. I found that furling the sails is best done when they are rather damp. This takes away any stiffness and they can be furled quite tight. On the other hand this forbids the use of glue for boltropes and the hem. I’m still undecided how to make the sails for Pegasus but the decision point approaches fast. I was thinking of making the seams by ‘pulling the threads` (described elsewhere in this forum) but this still leaves the question how to make the hem. Probably the boltrope will be hand seamed on again but only where needed. And where it is possible I shall reduce the size of the sails a bit. I’ll check for the other points later and will try to add a few pictures. Cheers Peter
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Hi Michael I really love the way your Vasa is growing into not only a beautiful ship but also a outstanding model which transports some of the feelings you have when visiting the awe inspiring original ship. I strongly support Grant’s and your comments on the unique experience a visit to the Vasa museum provides. I once took my family along and the Admiralty suddenly understood my fascination with old ships while the daughters still remember the sights, years after being there. The family had to endure other ships and museums but none created such a lasting impression. Cheers Peter
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Hi Mike As I am an absolute fan of furled sails I love the way you provide your ship with them. I was wondering if you could possibly further improve the look of those sails with a few simple seams (perhaps just penciled on) down the sail and by gluing a piece of bolt rope to the top of it? Or do you think this wouldn’t make a noticeable difference making the additional trouble worthwhile? Cheers Peter
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Hi Mobbsie After a few busy weeks I’m trying to catch up on all the posts. Now I find it rather difficult to still find some standing space among the chorus of your admirers to add my tiny voice to theirs. I’ll try anyhow: Great work. I like those boats. Up to now I thought they would be difficult to build that way; but if you can do it in a few days even we mortals should be able to finish one in a month or so. Keep the good work up! Cheers Peter
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Hi Andy As we are mere men we should have learned by now not to trust our feelings. No, no, you deserve all the praise – I can feel that! Cheers Peter
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Hi Aldo Well, if you really were that lazy you’d have another hobby. And fiddling with boats is not worse than rigging cannons. And then you venture into scratch building and try to convice me that you are lazy!? Try again. Hi John Thank you! Hi Ray Thank you for the pictures. That’s a good trick but unfortunately I used it already on Granado and want to try something else. The boat was stowed upside down on the mortar housing and as the ship is shown being prepared for firing the boat is being hoisted out. Hi Frank Thank you. It was a hell of a work to scratch off all those barnacles and refresh the painting but now Pegasus is looking almost as good as new, isn’t she? Cheers Peter
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Hi Aldo Echoing mtaylors thoughts, I say you plunged very deep into the darkness but you are shining so bright there that you are actually in danger to become a star! Looking at your post #102 I notice something like a kink where the planks bend over the aftermost bulkhead, transferring from side to stern. I noticed a similar kink in kits and have, so far, always tried to eliminate it, by adjusting bulkheads and first planking. Now I’m asking myself if ships were built with such kinks – perhaps to get as much inside space as possible-, or if they happen if you have not enough bulkheads to build a smooth curve. Anyway, I think the original planks wouldn’t like to be bent into such kinks and would react with braking, or at least threaten to do so when you stretch and distort the wood fibers that much. What do you think? Greetings from the bright side Peter
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Hi Mobbsie There I finally find time to visit MSW after a few weeks and what did you do in the meantime? You put at least a year of fabulous work into your Agamemnon. She really looks good. A pity that paint and ropes will cover a lot of that fine work on the catheads or won’t they? I wonder if the pulleys still are visible or if John’s excellent suggestion of simplified dummy sheaves would work almost as well. And not even Nelson could offer any critical comments on the color scheme as long as you shoot straight and handle bravely and without shipwreck such tricky pieces of navigation as 'the stairs’ (or that nasty piece of landscape called ‘door frame’ with a ship which will have a beam of 50cm and a height of 1 m!). Good luck on all the navigation mate, and keep up the fine work Peter
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Hi Nils That copper is looking fine and you work really fast. That way you will finish your scratch built Pegasus long before I finish my kit. Cheers Peter
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Hi Nils And still you prefer to do it the hard way… But those are very encouraging trials! Perhaps you could find a way to reduce the diameter of the ‘nail heads’. On the Amati sheets they are about 0,5mm and according to that link to "mini sail Switzerland" they should even be as small as 0,2mm. And I would use the flattened version as the shipbuilders were most probably looking for a smooth skin rather than something like a badly shaved hedgehog. That’s also the reason why I find Caldercraft’s copper sheets less convincing than Amati’s. Keep up the good work! Cheers Peter
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Hallo Nils If you take the descriptions in Patrick O’Brian’s books where height between decks was often closer to 150cm than your 192cm then you seem a very generous shipbuilder. Somewhere he writes something like ‘…height between decks was sufficient for men of average build, but only if you cut their legs at the knees…’. The height between decks on USS Constitution is probably close to 180cm but on Rose/’Surprise’ its again somewhere near 160cm (except where the original structure was destroyed to make room for the film crew). On plans of HMS Pandora I read about 165cm and on Granado, which has an unusual internal structure, you find between 150 and 190cm. And shall we agree not to think about that smell? I know how an empty passenger aircraft smells when you switch off the air conditioning for a few hours. And those passengers are moderately civilized, clean, almost always use the modern toilets and even spoiled food is of good quality. No, let’s not think about the smell. Cheers Peter
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Hi Nils You definitely do not believe in taking the easy way! Wonderful! I hope you don’t mind a remark about the treatment of the hull: I wouldn’t mix two different protection methods on the same build and only show the coppering of the prototype on one side. Otherwise you could overload your model. There is the saying “less is more” to consider. Oh and about dictionaries… I find www.leo.org helpful for most words and it contains some basic naval vocabulary as well. Keep up the fantastic work. Peter
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Hi Nils Thank you. The exact date of keel laying is lost in the mists of time. As a guess it was about three years ago. I’m still looking forward to my retirement (do I?) and work only sporadic on Pegasus. The crew figures are Amati’s 25mm cast metal sailors, recommended for 1:64 to 1:76 scales. I get them via http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/amati_crew.html Cheers Peter
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Hi B.E. If you really want to disappoint me, you must try much harder. Again you had a lot of useful information. I know Brian Lavery’s reputation (his book is still missing in my library – this will have to change) but the there are situations where I think you couldn’t pull any boat behind (e.g. very heavy weather). And logic tries to tell me that the ingenuity of the 18th century carpenters should also find solutions for removable kneed thwarts (just fix the knees to the thwarts and put removable bolts trough the knees would work). While I don’t know B. Lavery’s sources I expect that for example the contemporary models would seldom show all the equipment as one boat would be sufficient to represent all because everybody knew then where the rest was stowed. By the way, I also noted the extensive use of red color on that contemporary model. All the deck furnishing and even the foot of the mainmast were red. That’s a bit too ‘bloody’ for my liking. Therefore I will have to bear the reputation of being a skipper which doesn’t like the usual amount of bloody color on his deck. And I also noted that in both examples the spare spars are already painted – ready to use. This was another open question you provided with an answer. On my Granado I also had the problem where to stow the boat (and such a vessel must have at least one boat). The solution there was to show it in the progress of being hoisted out hanging by the respective tackles. But this time I'd like to try something else. For the time being I will work to stow the smaller boat inside the blue cutter on special supports and I will try for a solution to fix the blue cutter on the spars with a minimum of visible chocks but still in a conceivable way with a solid hold. Thank you. Cheers Peter
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Hi B.E. Oops and I was secretly hoping that you could give a hint or at least an educated guess. Well I presume that those supports were made by the ship’s carpenter according to the actual needs and the KISS rule. Therefore I will just set two short stubs in 45° angle, leaning towards each other, onto a beam. Two of those will lie across the spare spars (or inside the bigger boat) and support the hull of the boat in 4 points. Cheers Peter First try of a boat support
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Hi Mobbsie Thank you. As I will stow the smaller cutter inside the blue one, there will be no further detailing of this boat. But on the smaller cutter I will try some detailing with oars etc. Hi Martin Thanks. Fortunately there are some etched brass oars included in the caldercraft kits and they will do for my level of detailing. Hi Michael Thank you. I think those little caldercraft kits give an acceptable result for a moderate amount of work although it’s only a resin shell with a few attachments. As we “suffer” presently from a partly southern Californian climate here in central Switzerland (daytime temperature 35°C but about 500km to the next beach) I try to minimize the amount of any actual work. Take care Peter
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Hi Paul Every time I think you reached perfection in detailing, you add another level. Outstanding! I wish you joy with your new child – but better do not count on a ship modeler. I think what you should hope for is some mild tolerance, the same I’m getting from my daughters. By the way, this is not a gender question - one is an engineer! Cheers Peter
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In between the work on the masts I started on the first boat, Caldercrafts 24’ cutter. The rips were made according CC’s instructions. Contrary to them the floorboards were not mounted on the prepared piece of plywood but directly on the floor. A cockpit floor and a small ’deck’ up front (I wonder what’s that actually called?) were added. For those 2 details and a lot more information I used Chuck’s beautiful longboat as source – thank you, Chuck. The rowlocks were filed into the side as per CC’s instruction. Further detailing of the boats interior will not be made as the smaller cutter will be stowed inside this one. For the coloring I followed mostly the instructions and just added some blue to make it ‘the blue cutter’. The rips are made from cartridge paper Floorboards are added and the risers are being glued in place Cockpit floor added (the boat sits on a copy of Chuck’s longboat- that’s a perhaps a bit impertinent) It’s now the ‘blue’ cutter Front platform added Cockpit seats added – the captain inspects the new boat Provisionally stowed – looking at those pictures I think I will have to make a kind of support to keep the boat stable on the spars
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Hi Aldo Thanks for looking in. I got the impression that you are taking a break in the work on your Pegasus, concentrating on your wonderful Triton. Another one lost to the dark art of scratch building…? Hi Ray Thank you for the sound advice. Of course it’s a bit of a dilemma – after finishing the rigging there will not be enough space to fix the spars and boats. I guess those ‘ships-in-a-bottle-problems’ are part of our hobby and you probably would meet them even if building in original size. We know it from other work areas, e.g. trying to bring the furniture into the new house and realizing you should have done it before fixing the roof… The spars are still provisionally mounted and I delay the definite fix as much as possible until I will have missed the optimal point… Take care Peter
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Hi Chris Your Victory will be a marvelous work of art. Concerning sails - I prefer to have some on a sailing (!) ship. Out of laziness I showed them furled on my last 2 builds (and will do the same on Pegasus). Therefore I appreciate any help with the sails included in the kit. I was wondering about the coppering on your Victory. Believing that the point of those left and right copper plates was to put them on overlapping (where the ‘missing’ line of nails would be covered by the next plate, creating a regular nail pattern over the whole area) I now get the impression that you put them on side by side. Perhaps you can help me with some questions: Were they plates actually put on overlapping on the prototypes? Wouldn’t it be easier (and perhaps cheaper) to make just one sort of plates, where the overlapping part covers the nails of the plate below? Excellent as they are this wouldn’t be a problem with the nail heads to be covered. And what’s the point of left and right plates if you put them on side by side? You create a nail pattern were plates seem not properly attached on 2 sides.? Thank you for clarification. Take care Peter
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