dvm27

Beautiful job, Rusty!

Thank you Karl. 
 
Thanks Mark, it's just a line for positioning. I have to make a special cleat and rope to attach the blocks to the tops. You'll see.
 
Mark II, here's the how to. I used this link to understand how it works: http://www.animatedknots.com/spliceshort/index.php?Categ=splicing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
 

First the length I need is laid out and tied off at both ends. The tips of the ropes are dipped in CA to prevent from unraveling
 

The ends are brought together and tied again
 

Then the lines are spliced using a needle, it took some time to understand how this works as its quite confusing 
 

I opened the eye of the needle so I can insert the rope easily
 

The finished splice
 

The loop is glued to the block
 

And then seized at both ends
 

 
The result
 
 
Remco
 

Here's photo of her prior to fairing the outside Maury. Lots of cast and shifted toptimbers!

Thank you gentlemen! Erik, for the tarred joints I use acid free black paper (craft and artists supply stores have this) and white glue. Depending on the joint I'll use thicker or thinner paper and the edges are shaved clean with a blade. I would strongly suggest preparing a test wood/paper/wood sandwich first and applying the finish you prefer as a test to make sure the paper doesn't bleed onto the wood surface. Finally, I perforate the surface of the paper between joints with a pin to make sure glue adequately penetrates through to the other side. I also make sure to use treenails or fasteners in these joints. As yet haven't had a joint failure.
 
I've also used carpenters glue tinted with aniline dye powders. This works well too but is a holy mess.
 

Bollard and hawse timbers continued...

Bollard and Hawse Timbers
 
 
Thanks, all for your kind comments. A bit of serendipity with regards to the crash - many of us are putting up more photos than the first version. The ease of posting them and lack of file size restrictions make it a breeze.
 
The bollard and hawse timbers are among the most challenging to make on the model. As well, they are the first timbers made after the keel, and the learning curve hasn't had a chance to kick in yet. So it's important to take your time getting them right and redo them if necessary (as Ed T. has also pointed out in his excellent log). The last little filler piece has no real pattern. It's just cut over-sized and "massaged" into place.
 
The last photo illustrates the rather diminutive size of Speedwell as compared to an earlier discarded attempt at my Swan class model. The sixth rate looks gigantic compared to Speedwell. Yet they wood both look like longboats compared to a third rate or larger!
 
 

Building Board, Keel Assembly, Stem, Deadwood, Knee of the Head, Mounting

Thanks for the photos Bob. I knew your Nikon digital SLR would take better photos than my mini Nikon. Your first frame came out terrific and your lucite jig far outdid mine. Hope to catch you at our next workshop in the fall!

You're a gifted model maker Doris. I wonder if you also made doll houses, as your cabin rooms have that feel.

Here's photo of her prior to fairing the outside Maury. Lots of cast and shifted toptimbers!

Here's photo of her prior to fairing the outside Maury. Lots of cast and shifted toptimbers!

Thanks guys. Progress is a little slow, making the blocks hasn't got me over the block yet.. I'm not mass producing the blocks other than the method described in TFFM vol 4. I've seen how Chuck does it, clever but whenever possible I like to avoid powered tools. Cutting by hand is more satisfying and I'm not on any deadline to get things finished. And doing a repetitive task helps to clear my mind, that's what the hobby is for. 
 
That said I had to turn the shaves on my lathe 
I found making bigger blocks harder than the small ones, getting them the same shape and size was necessary as it really shows.
 

 
Remco
 
ps Pat, you can always come over and scavenge my scrapbox

Hi everyone,
 
I got a little further on cutting the birdsmouth rabbets on the whelps for the chocks. Using the little holding jig really helped. I was able to use the scoring marking gauge to keep the joints at the same height, and then a free-handed chisel cut for the birdmouth. By the way, I spot glued the whelps into the jig to hold them in place, then soaked them off with isopropyl alcohol 99%. The spots of glue were really tiny, but they held.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark

Other decorations..... all is hand made from modeling clay:
 


 

Just one more set guys and that should  bring the magazine up to speed.

I'm thoroughly enjoying the reposting of these excellent logs. Those ribbands on your fully framed hull demonstrate how truly fair you've made her. Quite an elegant hull.

Thank you gentlemen! Erik, for the tarred joints I use acid free black paper (craft and artists supply stores have this) and white glue. Depending on the joint I'll use thicker or thinner paper and the edges are shaved clean with a blade. I would strongly suggest preparing a test wood/paper/wood sandwich first and applying the finish you prefer as a test to make sure the paper doesn't bleed onto the wood surface. Finally, I perforate the surface of the paper between joints with a pin to make sure glue adequately penetrates through to the other side. I also make sure to use treenails or fasteners in these joints. As yet haven't had a joint failure.
 
I've also used carpenters glue tinted with aniline dye powders. This works well too but is a holy mess.
 

Thank you gentlemen! Erik, for the tarred joints I use acid free black paper (craft and artists supply stores have this) and white glue. Depending on the joint I'll use thicker or thinner paper and the edges are shaved clean with a blade. I would strongly suggest preparing a test wood/paper/wood sandwich first and applying the finish you prefer as a test to make sure the paper doesn't bleed onto the wood surface. Finally, I perforate the surface of the paper between joints with a pin to make sure glue adequately penetrates through to the other side. I also make sure to use treenails or fasteners in these joints. As yet haven't had a joint failure.
 
I've also used carpenters glue tinted with aniline dye powders. This works well too but is a holy mess.
 

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 43 – Fore Platform Wrap Up
Posted 1/27/11
 
 
Before finishing the planking work on the fore platform, the coamings for the three scuttles had to be installed. These are 6 inches wide and three inches deep. They are joined at the corners with a lap joint, which is through treenailed to the supporting timbers below. The ledges that were framing one side of the scuttles in previous pictures were removed and replaced with carling-sized timbers. The following picture shows the framing of the three scuttles.
 

 
This picture also shows the reworked light room. These changes were made following some good input from Gary on what the backs of the lanterns looked like. Previous pictures showed a partition. This was removed along with the lanterns. They were given new metal backs and light reflectors from their sides to the window frames. Doing all this after all the platform framing was done was lots of fun.
 
The next picture shows all the intending planking installed.
 

 
There is a break in the planking at the center of the foremost beam. David White shows this in his Diana drawings. My guess is that thicker plank was needed to span the distance from that first beam all the way to the thickstuff on which the fore ends of the planking bed. I made this planking 2 inches thick vs. the 1 inch planking on the rest of the platform. I also took it aft to the fore peak scuttle rather than insert very short pieces of the thinner planks – a little artistic license and common sense. In this picture all the holes have been drilled for treenails for the planking and the scuttle framing.
 
Following is an overhead view of the whole platform at this stage.
 

 
After finishing the treenailing and leveling the decks, all that remained was the three ladders. Don’t ask me why I didn’t install these earlier. It would have been much easier.
 
The following picture shows the ladder sides being rabbeted for the treads. This was done using a slotting blade the thickness of the treads – about 1.5 inches. The calibrated feed allows these slots to be precisely located at the same spacing. The next step is to cut the edge of this piece and another like it to the ladder angle. The ladder sides are then ripped off these two mirrored pieces to give right and left hand sides.
 

 
The next picture shows a ladder being assembled.
 

 
The sides of the ladders were made intentionally thick so they could be sanded down to give a tight fit with the scuttle opening. When the fit is loose its very difficult to position them correctly when you have to do this after the framing is done – they keep dropping through.. A tight fit makes this easier. Next time these will be done before the framing.
 
The next picture shows the ladder for the forepeak scuttle waiting to be installed.
 

 
This picture also shows the ladder to the light room after installation and the next picture shows the ladder to the magazine.
 

 
The last picture shows all three ladders in place.
 

 
The fore platform is now complete, except for the standard knees which will be done after the lower deck clamps are installed.
 
Ed
 
Copyright 2011 Edward J Tosti

Bollard and hawse timbers continued...

Bollard and hawse timbers continued...

Bollard and hawse timbers continued...

Hey Greg, I know that David was your Mentor, would you like an apprentice??
I would take the position with no pay tomorrow. Lol.
 
Ben

Bollard and hawse timbers continued...

Building Board, Keel Assembly, Stem, Deadwood, Knee of the Head, Mounting