cdogg

Nice job Popeye.  I am in the middle of building the Revell version, I am trying to figure the best way to get that gold/yellow strip on the side.  It is much harder than I thought, I need to make it like 1mm all the way across

Nice job Popeye.  I am in the middle of building the Revell version, I am trying to figure the best way to get that gold/yellow strip on the side.  It is much harder than I thought, I need to make it like 1mm all the way across

Nice job Popeye.  I am in the middle of building the Revell version, I am trying to figure the best way to get that gold/yellow strip on the side.  It is much harder than I thought, I need to make it like 1mm all the way across

Tasanhalas,It should match the width of the false keel, here is a pic
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4284-scotland-baltic-ketch-1775-by-cdogg-corel-164/?p=130455
 
 
I think there are about 5 of us building this ship now, I'm on the deck structures right now.

Well, it's been a while but I got this ship going again. Decided on a darker shade of yellow, "sunflower" for the stripe. The railing was a slight pain but a lot of water and jigs helped out. I was worried about the rudder but it went fairly smooth.

The two filler blocks for the bow were a pain. I think I mentioned to you guys to just get a full balsa block and shape it. These two pieces basically help you curve the first layer planking to the bow. Maybe it's the kit I have but it had two pieces on each side to do this. Sy, were yours different? The instructions aren't very helpful.
 
As for the bow planking, I made a center line and a midsection line from port to starboard. This picture is just a capture of the process I was using. The planks were eventually tapered and used as a pattern for the rest of the deck. I used the planking pattern suggested by the kit but you can research many different ones. I felt this pattern was the most suitable for this scale.
 
Hope this helps

Hey everyone, thanks for following my Scotland build! I have been reorganizing the house lately and also my shipyard room flooded this summer, so I haven't gotten my build as much as I wanted. Good thing is that only the floor got damaged, none of my ship stuff. But, I had to fix the floor because of mold and stuff.
 
Anyway, I have gotten some questions about the bulkheads at step 3.
 
Here are some pics of those, hopefully this helps how I installed them.

Working on the rails. Slight error on the deck by the main mast hole. Still a lot work to do
Also, I can't get this pic to upload portrait on my ipad, it will only post sideways!!!

I just received a number of sheets of wood from Jason at Crown Timberyard and decided to make some measurements of the thicknesses. 
The sheets were clearly marked in plastic packages and looked very smooth and neat. They were two inches wide except for one four inch wide piece of holly that he had included for my evaluation. The latter had streaks of grey in various locations but might be interesting when used for deck planking. It also was very smooth.
The Swiss pear sheets are excellent with very uniform grain distribution. A couple of the boxwood sheets, however, had some distinct grain stripes but certainly not obtrusive. All in all I am very pleased with the appearance. 
 
I took three samples to measure (I will do the same with the others later). One is a sheet of Swiss pear at a nominal 1/8 inch thickness. The other two are Castello boxwood at 1/4 and 1/32 inch nominal thickness. Hence it covers the range of sheet thicknesses I ordered. I probably should have included the 1/16 inch thick holly, but that comes later.
The results are shown below.

 
The 1/32 inch piece is a bit on the 'heavy' side, but overall the thickness measurements are within 
a nice tolerance.

Please please please avoid shiny finish on old ships. In my opinion, that is the quickest and easiest way to ruin a model. Bright or shiny finishes should be used only on modern yachts, racing boats or the like. You get the idea.
For old ships a matte or satin (eggshell finish) is much preferable.

Awesome Dave!

Here. Is the finished second planking. I have used no filler. There are small areas that may need filler. What are everyone's thoughts?

Working on the rails. Slight error on the deck by the main mast hole. Still a lot work to do
Also, I can't get this pic to upload portrait on my ipad, it will only post sideways!!!

Hi Casey,
I had the same problem with my iPad . What I had to do was edit each picture , rotate them 4 times or 360 degrees , and then post them. This allowed them to be in the proper position.
Have no idea why it worked but it did

I've only planked two models, it was easier to do the deck before putting on the side planks, sanding off the rough edges.

I've only planked two models, it was easier to do the deck before putting on the side planks, sanding off the rough edges.

Nice work!

I did for the white, the yellow and black I used a brush. This the third time I've brush painted a wood ship, it looks pretty good. For plastic and metal parts I only use airbrush. Brush strokes don't show up as much on wood. Also, the small areas are more accessible with a brush unless you want constantly tape off the wood sections. Just my preference though.

Thanks. I need to build a base for the ship. I really didn't like the one that came with the kit. Last night I sprayed primer on about 100 small metal parts, hopefully this week I'll have her close to ready for rigging.

Well, it's been a while but I got this ship going again. Decided on a darker shade of yellow, "sunflower" for the stripe. The railing was a slight pain but a lot of water and jigs helped out. I was worried about the rudder but it went fairly smooth.

The Corsair looks awesome man. Nice job. I haven't been around the site for a while, glad to see what you've done.

1) Mahogany is not the best choice of wood for bending to the curves required on models.
 
2) Ammonia is unpleasant and, as many have already suggested, not the best choice or, in fact, any choice.
 
So, choose a specie of wood that will readily bend with either hot water or steam (or a temperature controlled hot iron). Then all will be happiness.

I have never used ammonia to bend wood - it just isn't needed.  The bit below is a reprint of part of my article on building the Gunboat Philadelphia kit in Ships in Scale.  I doubt anybody who attended the NRG Conference I reference has ever used ammonia since hearing it.
Kurt
 
 
AVOID AMMONIA SOAKING
 
At the 2007 Nautical Research Guild Conference in Manitowoc, Wisconsin Alex C. Wiendenhoeft of the U S Department of Agriculture Forest Services Center for Wood Anatomy Research at the Forest Products Laboratory in Madison, Wisconsin explained how and why this damages the wood.  After this length of time I do not remember all of the details of his talk, but the point was well made and I don’t think that any of the modelers who listened to his talk that day has ever used Ammonia again.  The very non-scientific points I remember is that soaking in Ammonia breaks down and liquefies the Lignin in the cells making the wood more bendable.  When the Ammonia evaporates while the wood is clamped in place to the desired bend, the Lignin solidifies in a somewhat degrade state weakening the wood.
 
Ammonia also causes some woods to discolor when they dry out.  This might not be critical when the wood is to be painted but if it is being stained or clear finished the discoloration would not be acceptable. Concentrated Ammonia fumes are used commercially to darken some woods with oak being very susceptible to this process.
 
Mr. Wiendenhoeft explained how and why soaking in water or steaming wood made it bendable while not damaging the cellular structure of the wood.  Again, a non-scientific explanation is that there is a chemical bond with water in the cellular structure of wood that varies between 0% and 30%.  Soaking or steaming wood with water raises the percentage of water within the wood, called “free water”, above the amount bonded within the cells temporarily.  This makes the wood swell and more easily bent.  When the wood dries out and the bonded water stabilizes back to 30% or less, the wood retains the shape it was formed to by the clamping while it dried while retaining its strength. 
 
I have only mentioned drying the wood while clamped in place but the application of heat using some sort of plank bending tool or other heat source works the same way as clamping just at an accelerated rate.

Nice pics! The ship looks great, can't wait to see the sails.

Well, here we are. After too much work and almost no time for ship modeling, I´m back for masting and rigging, at least to begin rigging. Still haven´t fixed the hole over the cabin as my soldering iron is missing and every single time I think to buy a new one, I forget to do it as my head is always in my work - hope I can forget the work justs a little bit on the next 2 or 3 days .
 
I´ve made some daylight model shooting with her today, here are the pictures:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The arrow is to show a little breaking on my windlass as I was rigging the first blocks. As the bars are wood, not the metal cast which the kit supplied, they are a lot more fragile. I´ll fix it after rigging the foremast completely.
 

 

 

 
That´s it for now. I´ll be working on her next 2 days and begin a new project, soon to be brought to you. :D