captainbob

the doors as I mentioned,  are missing in the kit........an entire sheet of parts is missing.   the rigging sheet is 1:1 with the model,  so I was able to trace the doors from the over view diagrams,  on the other side of the sheet.
 

 
I cut them out from a left over piece of 1/16 flat stock.
 

 
I made a couple of extra,  so I can select the better of them.   there are two large doors and one small one......they were sanded and shaped.   I intend to cover them with .5 X 2mm strip Annegre.   the edges will be penned in.
 

 
once they were done,  they will be trimmed and sanded.   the outer edges will be done with the archive pen,  and given the dark mahogany bars.
 

 

 
I took a couple of miniutes and used the scroll saw to cut the posts for the lower aft deck.   there needs to be a beam along the underside of the deck......there is a noticeable curvature of the deck lip.  it will also need to be pulled together......the walls sort of splay outward.
 

 
the doors were cemented in place...when the interior is stained,  they will be stained as well.  then I can put some hardware on them then.
 

 

 
in preparation for the cap rails,  the stern edge needs to be shaped with a curve.   the ends were wet down and wedged between two glasses and allowed to dry.
 

The color looks great, a nice rich tone that really draws the eye. I do like your doors as well, and I love the ingenious use of a couple of glasses to get the bend you needed, I will have to remember that trick for the future!

The more I look at the pictures the more I see. On the drawings of the Nokomis and on the picture of the Hoga at sea trials there are only two towing bitts on each side, but I noticed that in the picture of the Hoga at Pearl Harbor there was another set of bitts added to each side. (see red circle)
 
Not here.

 
There they are.

 
And I cannot find a stern drying grid in any of the pictures of the Hoga or the City of Oakland. So here is where we are, the hull is done and the main part of the cabin. Now for the upper deck and the pipes and vents around the cabin.
 




 
Bob
 
 

The more I look at the pictures the more I see. On the drawings of the Nokomis and on the picture of the Hoga at sea trials there are only two towing bitts on each side, but I noticed that in the picture of the Hoga at Pearl Harbor there was another set of bitts added to each side. (see red circle)
 
Not here.

 
There they are.

 
And I cannot find a stern drying grid in any of the pictures of the Hoga or the City of Oakland. So here is where we are, the hull is done and the main part of the cabin. Now for the upper deck and the pipes and vents around the cabin.
 




 
Bob
 
 

The more I look at the pictures the more I see. On the drawings of the Nokomis and on the picture of the Hoga at sea trials there are only two towing bitts on each side, but I noticed that in the picture of the Hoga at Pearl Harbor there was another set of bitts added to each side. (see red circle)
 
Not here.

 
There they are.

 
And I cannot find a stern drying grid in any of the pictures of the Hoga or the City of Oakland. So here is where we are, the hull is done and the main part of the cabin. Now for the upper deck and the pipes and vents around the cabin.
 




 
Bob
 
 

She's on the water with the wind in her sails, and a lovely ship she be.
 
Well done
 
Bob

Bob your model is coming along nicely. I am envious of your time working on the model, at the moment I am not able to spend any time on the models.
 
Michael

She's on the water with the wind in her sails, and a lovely ship she be.
 
Well done
 
Bob

She's on the water with the wind in her sails, and a lovely ship she be.
 
Well done
 
Bob

I learned this from a machinist at work.  To find out how much you need to remove from one part to make it match another:  Measure the smaller part and set the reading to zero.  Then measure the larger part. The number shown on the caliper will be the difference.  
 
Bob

Looking good.  The doors really dress up the ship.  Now for the tweezers work. 
Ah, the problems we give ourselves.
 
Bob

Guy,
 
Eight years ago I was planning on building the City of Oakland as an RC boat at 1:48 scale with less detail but working monitors.  Today I don’t do RC and I add more detail.  Things change.
 
Bob

Looking good.  I knew you could do it.
 
Bob

Thanks, Popeye.  The colors, as far as I can make out, are:  5-D   Dark Gray   ANA 513  and  5-H     Haze Gray   FS 15526.
 
Taking a closer look at the picture of the boat at Pearl Harbor, it looks like everything is dark gray except the decks.  That’s my plan at present, . . . which is subject to change without notice.
 
Learner,  Yes, the structure is completely welded steel.  As for the gunnel support, I’ll leave them as they are.  In order to make them of angle, if the steel is 1/2 inch thick, at this scale I would have to make them out of 0.005 inch foil.  I’ll leave that to you when you build your YT150.  By the way, when you get around to your YT150 build I’ll be glad to send you everything I have on the class.
 
Bob

She's a beauty and deserves a place of honor.
 
Bob

Just a little update. I started on the cabin and capstans and located them temporarily on the deck. I’ll finish and paint everything before mounting them permanently. But it’s all coming together.
 
In trying to "make it right" I found so many differences between the photos of the Hoga and the drawings of the Nokomis that I put aside the drawings and am working from the photos now.  I find it interesting that between the launch on Dec 1st 1940 and showing up in Pearl Harbor on May 1st 1941 there were already changes made to the Hoga.  I am wanting to build it the way it was in Pearl Harbor but if I paint it all dark gray I’m afraid all the detail will be lost.  I’m thinking of painting it Light gray over dark gray.
 
Open to suggestions.
 
Bob 
 

 

I use them all the time.
 
Bob

I know I am a beginner, but I have done a lot of arts and crafts in my lifetime.  I am still working on my first ship, which has thin thread for the rigging, etc.  Someone may have already come up with this idea, but I thought I would share it.  I don't know if this will help any of you or not, but I discovered that a small metal crochet hook helps me grab the thread for knots or when I am trying to get it into small holes.  Anyway, they would work great for grabbing any type of thread or rope when you can't seem to get a hold of it or get it to go in the direction you want it to, and there are several different sizes of hooks.

Just a little update. I started on the cabin and capstans and located them temporarily on the deck. I’ll finish and paint everything before mounting them permanently. But it’s all coming together.
 
In trying to "make it right" I found so many differences between the photos of the Hoga and the drawings of the Nokomis that I put aside the drawings and am working from the photos now.  I find it interesting that between the launch on Dec 1st 1940 and showing up in Pearl Harbor on May 1st 1941 there were already changes made to the Hoga.  I am wanting to build it the way it was in Pearl Harbor but if I paint it all dark gray I’m afraid all the detail will be lost.  I’m thinking of painting it Light gray over dark gray.
 
Open to suggestions.
 
Bob 
 

 

Just a little update. I started on the cabin and capstans and located them temporarily on the deck. I’ll finish and paint everything before mounting them permanently. But it’s all coming together.
 
In trying to "make it right" I found so many differences between the photos of the Hoga and the drawings of the Nokomis that I put aside the drawings and am working from the photos now.  I find it interesting that between the launch on Dec 1st 1940 and showing up in Pearl Harbor on May 1st 1941 there were already changes made to the Hoga.  I am wanting to build it the way it was in Pearl Harbor but if I paint it all dark gray I’m afraid all the detail will be lost.  I’m thinking of painting it Light gray over dark gray.
 
Open to suggestions.
 
Bob 
 

 

Ahoy Wayne
 
I Photo Shopped one for ya
 
It was a quickie
 
Sorry just had to add the smoke

For you, Admiral, I will see what I can do!
 

Not a great deal of progress, but some gratuitous sea side pictures today.
 
I have ordered some replacement rigging materials from Chuck and will be replacing the running rigging and, quite possibly, much of the standing rigging when it comes in.
 

 

 

 

 
 

I don’t remember the trawler having such a high stern, and I thought it was already painted.  What did you do?       
 
Bob

Paddle Wheels

 

I decided to set aside the armament constructions while I get back to an assembly that's been holding everything up on this model as I was trying to use brass etching and improving that technique. So, I finally decided that enough was enough and it was time to just build the paddle wheels. 

 

I went back to an old fashioned method of metal working to make flat rings for the paddle wheels. I had use large gauge (relatively speaking) copper wire wound into a circle and then flattened with hammer and anvil making the wire into a flat ring. I used this method to make circular tracks for pivot guns on a few models in the past. It worked then and maybe my touch has improved a little. At least I can hope.

 

For the Saginaw's paddle wheels, I would need 2-1/2" diameter outer rings. The diameter of an inner set of rings depends on which drawings you look at. I chose to use the original sheer plan drawings of the Saginaw, which show a basic paddle wheel structure. There is another set of detailed drawings available, but it's not clear if these drawings are actually specific to the Saginaw since the name doesn't appear anywhere on them. In any case, the inner ring diameter I'm using is approximately 1-9/16" diameter.

 



 

I made up some template on my computer and used them to create a set of MDF formers for the ring sizes needed. The templates were glued to the MDF board and cut to shape. The formers were then glued to an MDF board base. 18 gauge copper wire was bent around formers to create rings of appropriate size.

 



 

The copper wire rings were then carefully set on an anvil and tapped carefully with a hammer, flattening out the wire little by little. The wire tends to straighten itself in the process and is regularly bent on the former back to shape. The wire also tends to twist, so the piece is turned over regularly to undo any twist. 

 



 

As the wire is tapped flat, the ring flattens and widens. At this scale, the ring should actually be only about 1/32" wide (just under 4" at full size), but that makes it too flimsy for me to work with, so my aim has been about 3/64" to 1/16". 

 



 

Once the rings were made, I had intended to silver solder them closed, but found it was easier for now just to CA the ends together. The effort here is to get these done so I can get work on the hull and deck structures going again.

 

I made another template for lining up the rings and the spokes, again printed off the computer. For the spokes, I used 1/32” thick by 3/64” wide boxwood I had on hand. For the time being, I just deal with the part of the spokes connecting the two rings. The longer spoke sections that reach out from the hub, do so at an angle, so I simply left room along the inner ring for these to seat.

 

The very first spoke was run across the whole assembly to hold the rings into place while all the short spokes were glued into place.

 



 

 

Clare