wefalck
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Everything posted by wefalck
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As a minerals policy professional I would slightly diagree with the last statement, though historically you are right. Today, we have mining techniques and strategies that can result in minimal impact. Totally impact-free, of course, is not possible. -
... you had a complete building log on www.shipmodels.info, if I remember correctly. And yes, that is what I am doing for simulating wet sand, to play with acrylic gel and gloss acrylic varnish on fine-grained sand. I was too lazy to go back to the beginning of the building log to check and wonder, whether loaded the whole dredged material into the barges, or whether there has been some kind of sorting on the (bucket?) dredger? I wouldn't want to know about the impact on the river flora and fauna of the dreging and the release of the tailings though ... The water must have been turbid for miles down the river.
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Wow ... all that with hand-filing, while I struggle to do such things with my machines ... 👋🏻
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Allow me to strongly disagree - I think it looks very credible 😁
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Buckboard by kgstakes - Model Trailways - 1/12 scale
wefalck replied to kgstakes's topic in Completed non-ship models
I was actually thinking of the springs under the seat of the buckboard … -
Buckboard by kgstakes - Model Trailways - 1/12 scale
wefalck replied to kgstakes's topic in Completed non-ship models
Without shock-absorbers/dampeners they must have been swaying a lot ... -
Drill bit suggestions
wefalck replied to SiriusVoyager's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Another thing to look for are toolmaker or watchmaker drill-bits with a thicker shaft, below 1 mm they have a 1 mm shaft and the spiral part is much shorter and therefore stiffer than drill-bits with full-length spirals and uniform diameter. They are HSS and not to be confused with those brittle carbide drills that seem to be ubiquitous now and have either 3 mm or 1/8" shafts. -
I think such cross-braces were also used sometimes in full-scale practice ... Looking at the above photograph, I have the feeling that the cant-frames are too much in and also may not be full enough. Could be a question of perspective though. Did you check against the rail- and deck-profile? It would also be useful to run a batten along the frames to the stem-post, horizontally and diagonal - it would indicate kinks and forced runs.
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Well, barely a month into project and I already almost missed it completely ... You didn't describe, how you went about the sculpting of the decorations, didn't you?
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Reporting for watching along-duty ...
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It's all about finding the right configurations and writing the right specifications. Such experiments even date back to the Boer Wars in South Africa, where they began to armour traction engines, if I am not mistaken. It's also about understanding the tactical possibilities and thinking beyond the then current engineering capabilities. It is clear that initially tanks were mainly conceived as infantry support vehicles, rather than a replacement of heavy cavalry (light cavalary in its reconnaisance role began to be replaced by armourd road vehicles). It wasn't until the late 1920s/early 1930s that IC engine and track engineering made fast tanks really possible. Until then tanks were seen as war-elephants, rather than chariots, hence the idea of converting crawler tractors.
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It may be worthwhile browsing some on-line tool sellers and then go to this shop with the knowledge gathered. Naming the tools in Spanish though is another story. Perhaps you can take screen-shots and show this to the staff. I admire the shipwrights (of old) for their capability to shape such complex non-Carthesian objects. I know from my own experience that this even more difficult in small scales.
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I like this solid construction of metal-sheathing around a metal framework. I would have probably chickened out and built such things around a wooden core.
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Although I don't know anything about the construction of these boats, I could imagine, that the keelson sweeps up to the cant-frames to provide for them a sort of rabbet, keeping them down. A small pin-vise is also useful for pushing wires into holes. And so-called 'cutting-tweezers', as used by watchmakers are excellent tools for cutting wires flush on parts.
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Lapstrake/clinker planking isn't more difficult than carvel actually. One needs to carefully layout the strakes. Chamfering the planks needs to be done carefully. It may be helpfully to looks up a couple of YouTube videos (e.g. on Scandinavian boatbuilding) to see how it is done in full-size practice. As always, the garboard plank is the most challenging.
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Somehow, this project had slipped below my radar until today ... 🫣
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Diorama for ships
wefalck replied to kgstakes's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I have done this repeatedly, using different techniques, adapted to the scale and how 'rough' the sea is: - sculpted the sea in plaster of Paris, then sealed and painted, varnished with acrylics and use of acrylic gel medium to create surface textures; breaking wave crests modelled with acrylic medium filled with 'micro-beads' (= microscopic hollow glass-spheres). - coarse water-colour paper with props underneath to simulate swell, then sealed and continued as above - sheets of acrylic glass with surface texture added using acrylic gel medium; playing with gloss and satin varnish allows to simulate subtle textures, as you would see when a gust of wind comes in. - some 45 years ago, before acrylic gel medium appeared on the art materials market, I used a mixture of wall-paper glue (because it contains fugicides) and crystal sugar to sculpt breaking waves - it held until today. BTW, strictly speaking we are not talking about dioramas, but scenic settings. A diorama is a box that forces the view-point, involves perspective shortening and has a backdrop or otherwise limits the visible space. -
Did you use china-mugs in the navy? Thought it would be enamelled metal to reduce the risk of breakage.
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The nice thing about such subjects is that there is a lot of room for imagination and creativity, as they were cobbled together by their crews from whatever was at hand and seems to do the job. In most other cases on historic subjects we are bound by local customs and the limited availability of resources to the people of the time, which requires careful study of the available evidence.
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Just can echo the previous posters ... What material is your 'annealed 24 GA' wire? Is it still too springy? Many modellers use solder wire for such applications, where 'compliance' is required. Solder wire is readily available in 0.5 mm diameter, which is equivalent to 24 GA. Are you going to protect those outboard pipes somehow? Bare like this they could be easily ripped off by the coal-barges etc. A couple of wooden clamps around them would solve this problem.
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I always wondered, where Underhill found some of the builders' plans. For instance, I researched some years ago the background to his drawings of the 1879 wooden brig MARIE SOPHIE, the last built in Germany, but the only thing I could find was an old model of her in the maritime museum in Brake (near her birthplace). He didn't provide information on the location of the respective plans.
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A very limited set of plans can be found here: http://www.digipeer.de/index.php?sf=0&al=Herzogin+Cecilie They are drawings held in the Deutsche Schiffahrtsmuseum Bremerhaven. I am not sure what happend to the archives of the Rickmers shipyard, which finally closed in 1986, whether they survived the bombings during WW2. The International Maritime Instiute Hamburg, which had a financially potent founder/sponsor, managed to buy out many shipyard archives, but Rickmers does not seem to be among them. In a way it is strange that not much in terms of original resources seem to have survived, as she was quite a prominent ship in Germany before WW1.
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If you make the metal-work in brass, instead of painting, you could also look into self-tinning solution. Over here in Europe some model-shops carry it, but otherwise it can be found in electronics supply shops - nothing looks like metal - like metal
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Once you get used to the small scale, it is not so different from working at a larger scale. The problem are only the materials limits: you can get thin enough wires, (metal/plastic) sheets, threads etc. or at those small sizes they become difficult or impossible to work ... well of course, age takes a toll on our eyesight and perhaps dexterity too 😐
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