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wefalck

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Everything posted by wefalck

  1. wefalck
    Interesting feature, these push-knees. That is something rarely seen in Europe on tugs until a few decades ago. I would have thought that the driver would have been tied up alongside for manoeuvering it around and then tied up to the shore and two anchors laid out at the rear to keep it in position and to move it along for the next pile.
  2. wefalck
    In case you need supporting information, there are several surviving examples, for instance in the Deutsche Museum in Munich. This Wikipedia page gives an overview over S3/6: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayerische_S_3/6. It's in German, but that shouldn't be a problem with GoogleTranslator. I was surprised to see a Bavarian locomotive in blue in did a bit of search on German fora. It seems that they were painted for unknown reasons in blue for a number exhibitions around Europe, but blue was never a regular livery.
  3. wefalck
    Must be a specialist, who sees any problem with the stern ... I think that the 'garlands' would be a job for a laser-cutter or for photo-etching in brass ... or may be 3D-printing to obtain some plasticity.
  4. wefalck
    There seems to be a certain parallel to the boats from Norway that tended to rigged with a single square sail right into the 20th century. As has been shown by the replicas of Viking boats, when using bulins on the square-sails, they can go quite high into the wind. Looking forward to further progress ...
  5. wefalck
    It seems that 'warm' LEDs actually have a layer of yellow, transparent varnish on them. That's why they a 10% lower output in lumen, compared to the cold white ones.
  6. wefalck
    Another option is, if you have a lathe with a face-plate, to cut a ring-slot with a boring tool. This is what I did.
  7. wefalck
    Well, yes, unfortunately, I snapped one and lost it into nowhere 😡. I will replace it after the planking.
  8. wefalck
    Well engineered! It's only a pity that these 'angel's eyes' for cars only come in this unpleasant cold white. I made a similar one for my antique mill some ten years ago. As it is cast iron, I attached the ring-light with a neodynium magnet.
  9. wefalck
    Thanks for the 'Likes' ! ************************ Quick update In between travels I managed to attach the outboard part of the covering boards: I also scraped all the pieces to the same level, but some of the joints will need a bit of filling with putty to give a uniform appearance of a single board. To be continued
  10. wefalck
    I think I would have had a cardiac arrest while the first paint went on ... Loosk like my favourite green, British Racing Green or RAL 6007 Bottle Green. Difficult to get these days, but I had it mixed up in acrylics for the paint-jobs on my machines. And I think this is enough paint to give a balance between the realistic impression of the real thing, while preserving the beautiful planking and varnishing job.
  11. wefalck
    Because of the B/W photographs, we tend to have a much more dim impression of the time between 1850 and 1950, but in reality, the world was quite colourful. Perhaps not as colourful as after the aesthetically sometimes questionable colour-explosion during the later 1960s and the 1970s though. However, coloured paint was expensive, so 'simple' and lightfast colours, such as black, green, red-ochre and the likes dominated. It was also a matter of fashion: during the 1830s to 1850s (sea)ships were painted with quite a bit of colour, but thereafter black and white dominated. I gather, it is your aesthetic choice, Keith ...
  12. wefalck
    Brass parts to be handled other than for assembly probably require an etching primer. My models are barely handled, so I am ok with painting directly on brass. However, I mainly spray-paint, which makes it easier. Using a solvent-based varnish as primer might go a long way to facilitate brush-paining with acrylics, because bare brass has a slightly hydrophobic surface, regardless how well you clean it. Other people actually use paper, cardboard or styrene for metal-bands, which is fine as long as there is no load on these parts.
  13. wefalck
    Source: https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/modelle/bawaria/ Jig used in construction: Source: https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/modelle/wittelsbach/
  14. wefalck
    I know a 95 year old gentleman in Germany who has made several display-models with fully feathered side-wheels soldered up from brass parts ... in 1:100 scale
  15. wefalck
    You are lucky, that these sternwheelers used fixed blades 😈 Looking good 👍🏻
  16. wefalck
    Sorry, to have killed your linoleum-dream 🫢 I gather you have to teleport LULA then into the 1900s or so.
  17. wefalck
    The size of cleats need to be adapted to the size of line to be belayed on them. Even on small boats the cleats for sheets can be anything between 500 mm and 700 mm long. The ones that double also as cleats for mooring lines may span two bulwark stanchions.
  18. wefalck
    If linoleum, I would have thought of plain so-called Battleship-Linoleum in iron-oxide red ... However, linoleum wasn't invented until the mid-1860s by Walton, who remain the main producer (through subsidiaries) in Europe. Some years ago I did quite extensive research on the possible use of linoleum on the original configuration of SMS WESPE, but concluded that 1876 was too early. Shipboard use didn't really commence before the 1880s. Another option is wax-cloth, forerunner and inspiration for linoleum. I believe waxed cloth was used as cheap floor-covering from around the 1840s, but doubt that it would have stood up to rough shipboard use. It's the same kind of stuff they still sell as tablecloth today. To be honest, I think the most realistic bet would be plain wooden flooring.
  19. wefalck
    The linoleum looks like the captain is a lady 😁 ...
  20. wefalck
    I gather, learning to sail helps ... in many cases you the business end partly around a cleat, pin or spill head, because the friction helps you to control the line and takes out jerks. There is also a difference between 'belaying' and 'fastening'. Belaying end always refers to the business end of a line, the one that is handled. The other end is 'made fast', e.g. with a shackle through a spliced eye to an eye-bolt.
  21. wefalck
    Indeed, a tackle or at least a single block.
  22. wefalck
    That's called a 'jig' and is used in manufacturing and assembly all the time ... one can also use cardboard for jigs that don't have to be terribly precise or carry loads.
  23. wefalck
    "Some people call the rope coils created when belaying ropes to belaying pins "hanks" but this is a misuse of the term." I am not a native English speaker (though I consider myself bilingual ...), but for me a hank of yarn/rope was yarn or rope coiled up. The use of the term 'hank' for the kind of hooks used to attach staysails to stays seems to be in line with the etymology of the word: https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/hank. In German we call these thingies 'Stagreiter' i.e. 'stay-rider' ...
  24. wefalck
    I am confused by the wording now: tackles usually 'hook' to eyebolts, but their runners are then belayed to pins or cleats. Cleats are for belaying, not for making fast tackles.
  25. wefalck
    Never had to build one, but in general, in situ-construction ensures that the part actually fits. Otherwise, you would need to have a sort of jig that exactly reproduces the attachment points. Perhaps a hybrid strategy, building the elements that attach to the ship in situ, taking them off and completing the structure off-ship might help.

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