jud

My two cents about the shown ark on the 1768 drawing makes sense to me, if it was placed between the deck and tiller arm as it appears to be. Think about the moment arm acting on the rudder post just from the weight of that heavy tiller, then add the iron work at the end. Because of the location and height of the steering gear attachment point above the deck in the 1768 drawing  would also add some more downward force to the load on the tiller that the rudder post would need to support, the rudder post would soon snap off. The reinforcing iron and bolts between the rudder post and tiller aboard the replica will not save the rudder post from damage, it would quicken it by making the joint stiffer, they must have lots of problems with the steering gear. Suspect the ark in question and shown on the 1768 drawing lies on the main deck for the tiller arm to rest and run along, probably the arc device was topped with a well greased iron cap and a iron pad attached to the bottom of tiller arm to ease movement and stop excessive wear.
jud

My two cents about the shown ark on the 1768 drawing makes sense to me, if it was placed between the deck and tiller arm as it appears to be. Think about the moment arm acting on the rudder post just from the weight of that heavy tiller, then add the iron work at the end. Because of the location and height of the steering gear attachment point above the deck in the 1768 drawing  would also add some more downward force to the load on the tiller that the rudder post would need to support, the rudder post would soon snap off. The reinforcing iron and bolts between the rudder post and tiller aboard the replica will not save the rudder post from damage, it would quicken it by making the joint stiffer, they must have lots of problems with the steering gear. Suspect the ark in question and shown on the 1768 drawing lies on the main deck for the tiller arm to rest and run along, probably the arc device was topped with a well greased iron cap and a iron pad attached to the bottom of tiller arm to ease movement and stop excessive wear.
jud

Although I recently constructed a micro-grinder and –sander (http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/microgrinder/microgrinder.html), I found that some hand-sanding device would be desirable for very delicate operations. Sometimes just a few strokes would be sufficient and the process would be difficult to control with a motor-driven machine. A guided sanding block allows to achieve flat and square edges.
 

 
After some rummaging in my collected stocks I found a piece of aluminium rail with a T-slot at one end (I don't remember its original purpose), a piece of thick aluminium sheet, some square aluminium stock, and a well-seasoned piece of pinewood of just the right dimensions (5 cm x 8 cm x 2 cm).
 

 
Holes were marked out, drilled and countersunk for the pieces to be screwed down onto the wooden block. The four sides of the wooden block were squared off in the milling machine with the aluminium pieces in place. The wooden block then was carefully levelled in the machine-vise and a slot milled into the aluminium as a guide for the sanding block. Finally the surface was evened with some light cuts with a fly-cutter.
 

 
A mitre-guide was fashioned from a piece of flat steel. It can be mounted left or right and in different configurations.
 

 
The sanding block is fashioned from some 8 mm x 8 mm square aluminium stock. It has shallow recesses milled into both sides to allow for the thickness of the sanding paper. A knurled screw M3 serves as handle. to begin with a glued a strip of 600 grit wet-'n'-dry paper onto one side and a strip of plastic coated with abrasives as used by dentists for grinding and polishing teeth onto the other side.
 

Obtain some material and learn how to use those items before using them on your model. One of the first things I learned from my first pocket knife was learn to think ahead about the order of doing things, rather than how to use the knife, that came later. Dad had shot a skunk and told me I could have that knife I was wanting, if I buried that skunk,  went right after it, and retrieved the skunk, then dug the hole, 'lesson', dig the hole first before retrieval. You are going to learn many things from those tools you cannot foresee, so be ready. Add sharpening stones to your list and learn how to use them, a skill you will need when working with cutting tools. Enjoy
jud

Obtain some material and learn how to use those items before using them on your model. One of the first things I learned from my first pocket knife was learn to think ahead about the order of doing things, rather than how to use the knife, that came later. Dad had shot a skunk and told me I could have that knife I was wanting, if I buried that skunk,  went right after it, and retrieved the skunk, then dug the hole, 'lesson', dig the hole first before retrieval. You are going to learn many things from those tools you cannot foresee, so be ready. Add sharpening stones to your list and learn how to use them, a skill you will need when working with cutting tools. Enjoy
jud

Great advice, Jud!  I'll definitely take the time to get used to my new tools before I start using them on the ship.  Thanks!
 
Kurt, I was on the fence about the magnifying light...  I do think that there will be situations where it just gets in the way.  I was originally thinking of doing just what you suggested and getting a magnifying visor.  I still need some sort of light source, though.  I'll be working on this ship mainly in the evenings, and the table at which I'll be working is in a corner of the room.  If I can find a bright, inexpensive desk lamp that will be tall enough to not interfere with the model, I'll go with that.  Anyway, I just moved to Wisconsin not long ago, so I was unaware of the model boat show/contest.  I'll have to check out the website!  Thanks!
 
Jaager, I'll add some of those items to my list.  Thanks!  May I ask why you recommend the yellow PVA glue over the white?

Obtain some material and learn how to use those items before using them on your model. One of the first things I learned from my first pocket knife was learn to think ahead about the order of doing things, rather than how to use the knife, that came later. Dad had shot a skunk and told me I could have that knife I was wanting, if I buried that skunk,  went right after it, and retrieved the skunk, then dug the hole, 'lesson', dig the hole first before retrieval. You are going to learn many things from those tools you cannot foresee, so be ready. Add sharpening stones to your list and learn how to use them, a skill you will need when working with cutting tools. Enjoy
jud

Obtain some material and learn how to use those items before using them on your model. One of the first things I learned from my first pocket knife was learn to think ahead about the order of doing things, rather than how to use the knife, that came later. Dad had shot a skunk and told me I could have that knife I was wanting, if I buried that skunk,  went right after it, and retrieved the skunk, then dug the hole, 'lesson', dig the hole first before retrieval. You are going to learn many things from those tools you cannot foresee, so be ready. Add sharpening stones to your list and learn how to use them, a skill you will need when working with cutting tools. Enjoy
jud

Obtain some material and learn how to use those items before using them on your model. One of the first things I learned from my first pocket knife was learn to think ahead about the order of doing things, rather than how to use the knife, that came later. Dad had shot a skunk and told me I could have that knife I was wanting, if I buried that skunk,  went right after it, and retrieved the skunk, then dug the hole, 'lesson', dig the hole first before retrieval. You are going to learn many things from those tools you cannot foresee, so be ready. Add sharpening stones to your list and learn how to use them, a skill you will need when working with cutting tools. Enjoy
jud

Obtain some material and learn how to use those items before using them on your model. One of the first things I learned from my first pocket knife was learn to think ahead about the order of doing things, rather than how to use the knife, that came later. Dad had shot a skunk and told me I could have that knife I was wanting, if I buried that skunk,  went right after it, and retrieved the skunk, then dug the hole, 'lesson', dig the hole first before retrieval. You are going to learn many things from those tools you cannot foresee, so be ready. Add sharpening stones to your list and learn how to use them, a skill you will need when working with cutting tools. Enjoy
jud

The right timing during the build paired with careful measuring would make these things good to have around. Easy to get to the shrouds for tying ratlines and not causing damage to the model. Looks like a good idea to me, probably a limited market, maybe have more luck selling detailed plans.
jud.

one thing I found useful was to blacken the scribe lines that indicate degrees etc on the handles...my eyesight is not what it was and this helps a lot. I also made up some jigs for the saw, so I could do multiple plank lengths for decking etc. I dont have a large work area, to get the larger tools in, so a little time fiddling about getting the relevant assembly made up is fine by me... You definitely need a small support board to pin the tool down, I made up one using some cheap angle brackets, its about a foot wide and two feet long and does the job.

A great life philosophy, Nenad.   Let the spice flow and savor the moment.

Hello
 
An idea found in the network and the project realization my
 
Romanov

The right timing during the build paired with careful measuring would make these things good to have around. Easy to get to the shrouds for tying ratlines and not causing damage to the model. Looks like a good idea to me, probably a limited market, maybe have more luck selling detailed plans.
jud.

Boat Boom Thumbnail; Took another look to see how the sailor was shown climbing the hanging ladder,'rope ladder', it was shown correctly. Climb them from the side or your feet end up about chin level and become useless for climbing.

Boat Boom Thumbnail; Took another look to see how the sailor was shown climbing the hanging ladder,'rope ladder', it was shown correctly. Climb them from the side or your feet end up about chin level and become useless for climbing.

iIgorcap; I don't believe they are intended for boat boom use, boat booms need a hinge and two lines, one forward and one aft holding the boom outboard so 3 points is the norm. I was referring to the poles used by the boat crew as grab hooks, so quick, from the boat, control of the boat alongside ship, wharf or dock, the books I have read mention hooking up to the chains as a common grab point. Before getting into the Gun Gang on the Ammen DD 527, one of my assignments was being the bow hook on the Captains Gig, duties were to 'handle the pole, mooring lines then stood at parade rest on the bow of that Motor Whale Boat', while the engineer responded to the bells, the Cockswan used bells to communicate with the engineer who operated the throttle and transmission, they were about 4 feet apart, the bell was used anyway. First got antiquated with boat booms from that Gig, also gained about 5 pounds. Those unknown appendages probably weren't used as catch points. Really don't believe they were intended for bow hook use, I suspect they are used for boat handling in some way.

iIgorcap; I don't believe they are intended for boat boom use, boat booms need a hinge and two lines, one forward and one aft holding the boom outboard so 3 points is the norm. I was referring to the poles used by the boat crew as grab hooks, so quick, from the boat, control of the boat alongside ship, wharf or dock, the books I have read mention hooking up to the chains as a common grab point. Before getting into the Gun Gang on the Ammen DD 527, one of my assignments was being the bow hook on the Captains Gig, duties were to 'handle the pole, mooring lines then stood at parade rest on the bow of that Motor Whale Boat', while the engineer responded to the bells, the Cockswan used bells to communicate with the engineer who operated the throttle and transmission, they were about 4 feet apart, the bell was used anyway. First got antiquated with boat booms from that Gig, also gained about 5 pounds. Those unknown appendages probably weren't used as catch points. Really don't believe they were intended for bow hook use, I suspect they are used for boat handling in some way.

I go through this same process with every boat I build.  I have yet to see a printed set of lines that are correct in all three orientations.  Keep on with the instructions.  You will have to adjust some lines to get things to line up correctly but eventually everything will line up and you will have a correct set of lines.  It all takes time and work.
 
Bob

Take your pieces to a jeweler that refinishes old watch cases, they have the needed cleaning and polishing setups for different metals. To chrome I think it involves polishing, nickle plating and finally chroming with neutralizing baths and re cleaning before each new step. My uncle used to replate old time watch cases for people using gold, silver, brass, nickle or chrome, he had thousands of dollars invested in beakers, power supplies, chemical cleaners, anodes, solutions with silver, nickle and gold suspensions plus his cleaning acids, neutralizers and polishing set ups. You could probabley do a little reading and try it yourself, using a stainless steel fork as a sacrificial anode, a solution in a glass container the would pass the low voltage and low amperage from a DC power supply. They say it is the polishing, cleaning and time that really counts, electrolysis is easy to create, just dissimilar metals in contact will do it.
jud

Take your pieces to a jeweler that refinishes old watch cases, they have the needed cleaning and polishing setups for different metals. To chrome I think it involves polishing, nickle plating and finally chroming with neutralizing baths and re cleaning before each new step. My uncle used to replate old time watch cases for people using gold, silver, brass, nickle or chrome, he had thousands of dollars invested in beakers, power supplies, chemical cleaners, anodes, solutions with silver, nickle and gold suspensions plus his cleaning acids, neutralizers and polishing set ups. You could probabley do a little reading and try it yourself, using a stainless steel fork as a sacrificial anode, a solution in a glass container the would pass the low voltage and low amperage from a DC power supply. They say it is the polishing, cleaning and time that really counts, electrolysis is easy to create, just dissimilar metals in contact will do it.
jud

Chalk board chalk works, keep a box of it in the shop it is a harder form, chalk line powder and the bee hive shaped marking chalk you can obtain in lumber stores also works well, comes in several colors. Have used my metal marking chalk, it is hard but also waxy, could be a form of clay, comes in flat stick refills for holders.
jud

Hi Nenad
 
Yes it is an Old English Sheepdog.
My wife and I had three of them, they are fantastic dogs.
Lots of exercise and grooming ahead of you my friend.
 
Denis

Hi Nenad
 
If I'm right, that would be an Ole English Sheepdog and, what a wonderful breed it is. Nenad, you're going to have a wonderful and faithful companion when he/she arrives. Hopefully, when that time comes, you'll be able to post some puppy pics!
 
Congrats and well done.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick