jud

Jud I can see how that might work as it balances out the math because of running the helm ropes through blocks on the bulwark and then blocks on the tiller head and then aft to the tensioning blocks at the bulwarks again (at least that's what I think but not sure). I've just done the math for the drum and instead of 5 turns on the helm drum if the rope were lashed to the tiller head, you would need 9 turns because you have doubled the robe needed for the full movement of the tiller. This in turn would affect the steering by making it twice as light and half as responsive, meaning the helmsperson would need to turn the wheel twice as much to get the same angle of turn at the rudder. I don't know if this would be a good or a bad thing?
 
Another thought I got from looking at old pictures of helm drums last night was that some of them are concave. It has just occurred to me now this would help take up slack that might be produced on the side the tiller is moving to as the rope from that side is wound on the drum. The side that is wound on would run up the concave taking more rope per turn compared to the side that is winding off as it runs down the concave realising less rope per turn. But you would need to know how much slack to expect from a parallel drum in that situation and then you could work out how much to concave the drum. At least that's the theory that just popped into my head, so who knows if it's right?

Perhaps rigged like this will minimize the slack problem down to a manageable level.
 
Looks like I may need to start using a white background instead of black like have for years.
TILLER1_Image.pdf
TILLER2_Image.pdf

Perhaps rigged like this will minimize the slack problem down to a manageable level.
 
Looks like I may need to start using a white background instead of black like have for years.
TILLER1_Image.pdf
TILLER2_Image.pdf

Perhaps rigged like this will minimize the slack problem down to a manageable level.
 
Looks like I may need to start using a white background instead of black like have for years.
TILLER1_Image.pdf
TILLER2_Image.pdf

Wow this is great. Thanks Robin and Joel for mentioning those books. From what I can glean, the sweep was in use since the whipstaff and carried on with the use of the wheel as a tiller support whether above or below the quarterdeck and Pollard refined this idea in 1771 by inventing a system where the rope followed the sweep thereby solving the problem of slack in the steering ropes. Pollard did not invent the sweep.
 
According to 'The arming and Fitting by Lavery' as mentioned by Robin a sweep following the arc of the tiller was commonly installed on the quarterdecks of smaller vessels that employed a wheel (or or maybe whipstaff) where there wasn't room for a heavy tiller and sweep to fit under the quarterdeck well prior to 1771. In this situation it was fitted 2/3 rds of the tiller length forward of the rudder post primarily as a tiller support where a heavy tiller (which I assume due to the size of the vessel couldn't be operated directly) was rigged to a wheel as in the case of the Bark Endeavour. The sweep on the 1771 drawing is for this later purpose and I don't think related to Pollards design.
 
Not only that but I think the physics of having a sweep provided a minor solution to the rope tension problem by removing the arc produced by the angle of the stern post imposed on a rigid tiller. Which brings me to the purpose of the tiller brace which I now don't think was there to form a rigid connection to the rudder post but instead to help brace a pivoting connection needed for a heavy tiller to ride on the sweep as intended. How exactly the tiller brace did this as yet I haven't figured that out but am working on it and have some ideas and hopefully more research will reveal something.

The below-deck tiller and sweep has the sweep closer to the end of the tiller and small rollers on the rim of the quadrant to reduce friction on the tiller rope.
This would be for larger ships, although Endeavour has headroom enough below, and if there is horizontal room for the tiller to reach it's functional limits on deck, there will be room enough in the cabin.
I think some of the drawings may be for a refit, if not for the voyage and the replica got it wrong, then for afterward.  That gooseneck bothers me a bit, also.  It's only a foot or so long; you wouldn't gain much advantage from the extra length.  Why not simply do away with it and put the ropes on the wooden part as was done on many, even fairly large, vessels, but perhaps not ocean-going.  It doesn't make sense, and if it doesn't make sense, maybe there's something not right going on.

I appreciate the suggestions, everyone!  I am sure I'll be adding some of the tools you guys mentioned to my collection as I progress through the build.  I ended up getting a standard swing-arm lamp, and I put a 850-lumen 5000K natural daylight LED bulb in it.  I think it will provide plenty of light for my work.  I have also purchased everything on my list, as well as a dressmaker's tape measure, a small 3-inch vise, some extra tiny drill bits, some map pins, some 3/4" spring clamps, rubber bands, toothpicks, and a bottle of rubbing alcohol.  The sandpaper grits I selected were 100, 150, 220, and 400.  I ended up going with Zap-A-Gap glue (with some Z-Ends), and the wood glue I selected was Titebond III.  I am also probably going to pick up an Optivisor and a helping hands with a magnifier.  For now, it's just a matter of waiting for the kit.  Since this will be my first model, I went ahead and spent the money on the Lauck Street Shipyard Lady Nelson DVD set.  While it was expensive, I think it will be beneficial to watch a step-by-step build of the exact same kit I will be constructing.  I'm sure I'll learn a lot, and the skills I develop can be used on future builds, as well.  Between the DVDs and the wealth of information here on the forum, I think I stand a good chance of producing an aesthetically pleasing model that I can display in my home once I'm done.  Thanks again for your comments and suggestions!  Happy modeling!  

My two cents about the shown ark on the 1768 drawing makes sense to me, if it was placed between the deck and tiller arm as it appears to be. Think about the moment arm acting on the rudder post just from the weight of that heavy tiller, then add the iron work at the end. Because of the location and height of the steering gear attachment point above the deck in the 1768 drawing  would also add some more downward force to the load on the tiller that the rudder post would need to support, the rudder post would soon snap off. The reinforcing iron and bolts between the rudder post and tiller aboard the replica will not save the rudder post from damage, it would quicken it by making the joint stiffer, they must have lots of problems with the steering gear. Suspect the ark in question and shown on the 1768 drawing lies on the main deck for the tiller arm to rest and run along, probably the arc device was topped with a well greased iron cap and a iron pad attached to the bottom of tiller arm to ease movement and stop excessive wear.
jud

My two cents about the shown ark on the 1768 drawing makes sense to me, if it was placed between the deck and tiller arm as it appears to be. Think about the moment arm acting on the rudder post just from the weight of that heavy tiller, then add the iron work at the end. Because of the location and height of the steering gear attachment point above the deck in the 1768 drawing  would also add some more downward force to the load on the tiller that the rudder post would need to support, the rudder post would soon snap off. The reinforcing iron and bolts between the rudder post and tiller aboard the replica will not save the rudder post from damage, it would quicken it by making the joint stiffer, they must have lots of problems with the steering gear. Suspect the ark in question and shown on the 1768 drawing lies on the main deck for the tiller arm to rest and run along, probably the arc device was topped with a well greased iron cap and a iron pad attached to the bottom of tiller arm to ease movement and stop excessive wear.
jud

My two cents about the shown ark on the 1768 drawing makes sense to me, if it was placed between the deck and tiller arm as it appears to be. Think about the moment arm acting on the rudder post just from the weight of that heavy tiller, then add the iron work at the end. Because of the location and height of the steering gear attachment point above the deck in the 1768 drawing  would also add some more downward force to the load on the tiller that the rudder post would need to support, the rudder post would soon snap off. The reinforcing iron and bolts between the rudder post and tiller aboard the replica will not save the rudder post from damage, it would quicken it by making the joint stiffer, they must have lots of problems with the steering gear. Suspect the ark in question and shown on the 1768 drawing lies on the main deck for the tiller arm to rest and run along, probably the arc device was topped with a well greased iron cap and a iron pad attached to the bottom of tiller arm to ease movement and stop excessive wear.
jud

Although I recently constructed a micro-grinder and –sander (http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/microgrinder/microgrinder.html), I found that some hand-sanding device would be desirable for very delicate operations. Sometimes just a few strokes would be sufficient and the process would be difficult to control with a motor-driven machine. A guided sanding block allows to achieve flat and square edges.
 

 
After some rummaging in my collected stocks I found a piece of aluminium rail with a T-slot at one end (I don't remember its original purpose), a piece of thick aluminium sheet, some square aluminium stock, and a well-seasoned piece of pinewood of just the right dimensions (5 cm x 8 cm x 2 cm).
 

 
Holes were marked out, drilled and countersunk for the pieces to be screwed down onto the wooden block. The four sides of the wooden block were squared off in the milling machine with the aluminium pieces in place. The wooden block then was carefully levelled in the machine-vise and a slot milled into the aluminium as a guide for the sanding block. Finally the surface was evened with some light cuts with a fly-cutter.
 

 
A mitre-guide was fashioned from a piece of flat steel. It can be mounted left or right and in different configurations.
 

 
The sanding block is fashioned from some 8 mm x 8 mm square aluminium stock. It has shallow recesses milled into both sides to allow for the thickness of the sanding paper. A knurled screw M3 serves as handle. to begin with a glued a strip of 600 grit wet-'n'-dry paper onto one side and a strip of plastic coated with abrasives as used by dentists for grinding and polishing teeth onto the other side.
 

Obtain some material and learn how to use those items before using them on your model. One of the first things I learned from my first pocket knife was learn to think ahead about the order of doing things, rather than how to use the knife, that came later. Dad had shot a skunk and told me I could have that knife I was wanting, if I buried that skunk,  went right after it, and retrieved the skunk, then dug the hole, 'lesson', dig the hole first before retrieval. You are going to learn many things from those tools you cannot foresee, so be ready. Add sharpening stones to your list and learn how to use them, a skill you will need when working with cutting tools. Enjoy
jud

Obtain some material and learn how to use those items before using them on your model. One of the first things I learned from my first pocket knife was learn to think ahead about the order of doing things, rather than how to use the knife, that came later. Dad had shot a skunk and told me I could have that knife I was wanting, if I buried that skunk,  went right after it, and retrieved the skunk, then dug the hole, 'lesson', dig the hole first before retrieval. You are going to learn many things from those tools you cannot foresee, so be ready. Add sharpening stones to your list and learn how to use them, a skill you will need when working with cutting tools. Enjoy
jud

Great advice, Jud!  I'll definitely take the time to get used to my new tools before I start using them on the ship.  Thanks!
 
Kurt, I was on the fence about the magnifying light...  I do think that there will be situations where it just gets in the way.  I was originally thinking of doing just what you suggested and getting a magnifying visor.  I still need some sort of light source, though.  I'll be working on this ship mainly in the evenings, and the table at which I'll be working is in a corner of the room.  If I can find a bright, inexpensive desk lamp that will be tall enough to not interfere with the model, I'll go with that.  Anyway, I just moved to Wisconsin not long ago, so I was unaware of the model boat show/contest.  I'll have to check out the website!  Thanks!
 
Jaager, I'll add some of those items to my list.  Thanks!  May I ask why you recommend the yellow PVA glue over the white?

Obtain some material and learn how to use those items before using them on your model. One of the first things I learned from my first pocket knife was learn to think ahead about the order of doing things, rather than how to use the knife, that came later. Dad had shot a skunk and told me I could have that knife I was wanting, if I buried that skunk,  went right after it, and retrieved the skunk, then dug the hole, 'lesson', dig the hole first before retrieval. You are going to learn many things from those tools you cannot foresee, so be ready. Add sharpening stones to your list and learn how to use them, a skill you will need when working with cutting tools. Enjoy
jud

Obtain some material and learn how to use those items before using them on your model. One of the first things I learned from my first pocket knife was learn to think ahead about the order of doing things, rather than how to use the knife, that came later. Dad had shot a skunk and told me I could have that knife I was wanting, if I buried that skunk,  went right after it, and retrieved the skunk, then dug the hole, 'lesson', dig the hole first before retrieval. You are going to learn many things from those tools you cannot foresee, so be ready. Add sharpening stones to your list and learn how to use them, a skill you will need when working with cutting tools. Enjoy
jud

Obtain some material and learn how to use those items before using them on your model. One of the first things I learned from my first pocket knife was learn to think ahead about the order of doing things, rather than how to use the knife, that came later. Dad had shot a skunk and told me I could have that knife I was wanting, if I buried that skunk,  went right after it, and retrieved the skunk, then dug the hole, 'lesson', dig the hole first before retrieval. You are going to learn many things from those tools you cannot foresee, so be ready. Add sharpening stones to your list and learn how to use them, a skill you will need when working with cutting tools. Enjoy
jud

Obtain some material and learn how to use those items before using them on your model. One of the first things I learned from my first pocket knife was learn to think ahead about the order of doing things, rather than how to use the knife, that came later. Dad had shot a skunk and told me I could have that knife I was wanting, if I buried that skunk,  went right after it, and retrieved the skunk, then dug the hole, 'lesson', dig the hole first before retrieval. You are going to learn many things from those tools you cannot foresee, so be ready. Add sharpening stones to your list and learn how to use them, a skill you will need when working with cutting tools. Enjoy
jud

The right timing during the build paired with careful measuring would make these things good to have around. Easy to get to the shrouds for tying ratlines and not causing damage to the model. Looks like a good idea to me, probably a limited market, maybe have more luck selling detailed plans.
jud.

one thing I found useful was to blacken the scribe lines that indicate degrees etc on the handles...my eyesight is not what it was and this helps a lot. I also made up some jigs for the saw, so I could do multiple plank lengths for decking etc. I dont have a large work area, to get the larger tools in, so a little time fiddling about getting the relevant assembly made up is fine by me... You definitely need a small support board to pin the tool down, I made up one using some cheap angle brackets, its about a foot wide and two feet long and does the job.

A great life philosophy, Nenad.   Let the spice flow and savor the moment.

Hello
 
An idea found in the network and the project realization my
 
Romanov

The right timing during the build paired with careful measuring would make these things good to have around. Easy to get to the shrouds for tying ratlines and not causing damage to the model. Looks like a good idea to me, probably a limited market, maybe have more luck selling detailed plans.
jud.

Boat Boom Thumbnail; Took another look to see how the sailor was shown climbing the hanging ladder,'rope ladder', it was shown correctly. Climb them from the side or your feet end up about chin level and become useless for climbing.

Boat Boom Thumbnail; Took another look to see how the sailor was shown climbing the hanging ladder,'rope ladder', it was shown correctly. Climb them from the side or your feet end up about chin level and become useless for climbing.