Mike Y

Now it's time to build magazines and all sorts of decks and beams. For that phase an accurate depth gauge is essential, so I've let my brain overthink yet another tool 
 
The requirements are:
1) Soft plastic or wood to avoid scratching the model
2) Nice looking and pleasure to use, that tool would be in active service for at least a decade.
3) Ideally it should have a thumbwheel or a knob for fine adjustment. 
 
I have a cheap plastic vernier calliper that satisfies the first requirement, but it does not have an knob / thumbwheel.

Could not find any plastic callipers with a knob, unfortunately. The plastic ones are already rare enough, let alone with a wheel adjuster.
 
Then I spotted a Lego set with a container loader ("reach stacker", to be more precise) that has a worm gear and tried to make an abomination out of it. It is surprisingly challenging to build a compact functional tool out of random lego parts, a whole puzzle of its own. Respect to people who do it on a regular basis!

It kind of works, but the play and precision is not good enough for my needs. 
So I gave up on the wheel adjuster requirement and went back to the simple "calliper on a gantry" setup.
It was a nice warmup to recover some skills that I've lost over years of inactivity.
 

This time I even got help from my little helper! She enjoyed cranking the mill  

 
The resulting design has two parts - sliding gantry (no t-tracks, it is stable enough on its own) and a "calliper holder" that slides sideways on the gantry to allow the gantry keep contact with both sides of the baseboard.
The bottom edge of the caliper is trimmed to a flatter profile to avoid hitting the keelson. Both ends of the calliper can be used for a markup to allow for a comfortable pencil positioning.
The setup relies on three clamps to fix everything in position. These plastic clamps are a bit of an eyesore, maybe I will sidetrack again to build a nicer ones  


 
 

Now it's time to build magazines and all sorts of decks and beams. For that phase an accurate depth gauge is essential, so I've let my brain overthink yet another tool 
 
The requirements are:
1) Soft plastic or wood to avoid scratching the model
2) Nice looking and pleasure to use, that tool would be in active service for at least a decade.
3) Ideally it should have a thumbwheel or a knob for fine adjustment. 
 
I have a cheap plastic vernier calliper that satisfies the first requirement, but it does not have an knob / thumbwheel.

Could not find any plastic callipers with a knob, unfortunately. The plastic ones are already rare enough, let alone with a wheel adjuster.
 
Then I spotted a Lego set with a container loader ("reach stacker", to be more precise) that has a worm gear and tried to make an abomination out of it. It is surprisingly challenging to build a compact functional tool out of random lego parts, a whole puzzle of its own. Respect to people who do it on a regular basis!

It kind of works, but the play and precision is not good enough for my needs. 
So I gave up on the wheel adjuster requirement and went back to the simple "calliper on a gantry" setup.
It was a nice warmup to recover some skills that I've lost over years of inactivity.
 

This time I even got help from my little helper! She enjoyed cranking the mill  

 
The resulting design has two parts - sliding gantry (no t-tracks, it is stable enough on its own) and a "calliper holder" that slides sideways on the gantry to allow the gantry keep contact with both sides of the baseboard.
The bottom edge of the caliper is trimmed to a flatter profile to avoid hitting the keelson. Both ends of the calliper can be used for a markup to allow for a comfortable pencil positioning.
The setup relies on three clamps to fix everything in position. These plastic clamps are a bit of an eyesore, maybe I will sidetrack again to build a nicer ones  


 
 

New build from Tiziano! You don’t see that every day 😊 Quite excited!

New build from Tiziano! You don’t see that every day 😊 Quite excited!

New build from Tiziano! You don’t see that every day 😊 Quite excited!

Hello everyone, I am embarking on this new project, my favorite period is 1800, after having built a French ship and an English frigate, I am trying my hand at building a corvette, Boudriot's plans do not include the framework , I therefore proceeded to the drawing myself, by hand, what I needed to build this corvette in frame, I must thank Gérard Delacroix for the advice he gave me and for the plans he provided me, he was very kind, and thanks also to Francis Jonet for making one of his available books, after spending twenty days drawing, I started the construction with the axial elements, let's see what comes out of it , any errors will be corrected during the construction phase. This time I'm building in 1:48, because the model allows me to have manageable dimensions for me:

Many innocent sheets of material died to bring you these pictures...
 
This is the fifth hull I have made up, with incremental changes with each new version. I usually just remove and replace the parts I change, but there are many interlocking parts with this one, that I felt more comfortable restarting the whole hull assembly with all updated designs, so that I know all fits as they should. This will not be the final form, however, but am comfortable continuing using the hull form (which is final) to get more information for parts that fit onto it.
 
Hull has been sanded, ready to take gunport bulwark template (which are next to design)
 
(This will be thrown away once all info has been garnered from it...)
 

Thanks guys….
 
Yes I have mailed a few.  It depends on the country.  Some countries wont allow first class mail or the cheapest option and only allow priority mail.   It weighs about 9 pounds give or take.
 
I just shipped one to Italy for $99 US shipping.
 
I sent others which were around $85
 
So far the most expensive was $149 but I charge $99 usually so I take the hit if its more.
 
So probably around $99
 
 

Thank You...
 
The cabins on the aft lower platform are completed.   No detailed explanation since they are built exactly like the others.   Each partition wall is built up with two layers glued together.   Then they are detailed with hinges and door handles as required along with any upright timbers 1/8" x 1/8" strips.   Their heights and widths are adjusted to fit under the deck beams etc.   Finally they are assembled and glued into position.
 
Here is the tiny powder and filling rooms completed.  These walls are slightly thicker than the other cabins as was normally the case.  An extra laser cut sheet of parts shows how all the cabins are prepared for you.   They are all numbered and shown on the plans.  I built them in the order that they are numbered.
 

All of the cabins completed.
 


Next up is to complete the remaining deck beams carlings and ledges.
 
 

Angel,
It looks like your prop is in the wrong place or the diameter is too large.  Is it possible to relocate the propellor shaft or go with a smaller diameter prop?  Also, you can add a piece similar to the sketch below although it is probably not a good solution.  If the ship had a wooden keel then this would work well and could also take a false keel across the entire length of the ship as well.  
Can you tell us which vessel this is?
Thanks
Allan

Hi Michel,
 
No, your model is quite awesome! You should really start the log and post more. There is always some other log that looks better, that is not an excuse   And we all are masters of finding flaws in our models, so it's never perfect...
 
Have you built yours out of the Lumberyard "timbering package" or entirely from scratch (plans only)? Haven't seen any Lumberyard based build logs, frankly... Would be very interesting to see!
The scrolls under your quarter gallery look laser cut, so that's why I thought about a package  

This framing plan was published in 1770. That is why it could be useful for the Beaver framing (1761) or the Beaver’prize 🙂
 
Floor timber shoud be around 10 inches , sided (No scale indicated on the plan).
 
I should check with the size of the gun ports.

Ah, the midship frames from Kingfisher. For the first. Ships of the class the frameing design, which was introduced with Cygnet is not correct.
I am busy with another Swan Class Fly. For this ship the Cygnet design is with some small adjustments possible.

Hi Michel,
 
No, your model is quite awesome! You should really start the log and post more. There is always some other log that looks better, that is not an excuse   And we all are masters of finding flaws in our models, so it's never perfect...
 
Have you built yours out of the Lumberyard "timbering package" or entirely from scratch (plans only)? Haven't seen any Lumberyard based build logs, frankly... Would be very interesting to see!
The scrolls under your quarter gallery look laser cut, so that's why I thought about a package  

Curieux, so nice to see another Beaver's Prize build! Hope you can start a build log and share your progress (even retroactively, it is interesting to follow the old build steps even if it you are much further into the build by now).
I see you are building the pre-modification version?
 
Yes, Hahn frame is a styling choice and does not follow the real practice, so both of our cant frames are incorrect   We can refer to the same period Swan class that is greatly documented in the TFFM book series to see the proper practice.
 
Would like to see more photos, hopefully not only the finished model. Really like your unpainted railings, but hard to see anything else from this angle. 
 
 
 

Hi Michel,
 
No, your model is quite awesome! You should really start the log and post more. There is always some other log that looks better, that is not an excuse   And we all are masters of finding flaws in our models, so it's never perfect...
 
Have you built yours out of the Lumberyard "timbering package" or entirely from scratch (plans only)? Haven't seen any Lumberyard based build logs, frankly... Would be very interesting to see!
The scrolls under your quarter gallery look laser cut, so that's why I thought about a package  

Going back to the Oliver Cromwell's case - the last set of sticks is done. These are the top ones, that are a bit tricky.
These pieces are right on the viewing angle (or a bit above), so I tried to make them as thin as possible. A the same time, they should not sag.
To make them stiffer, I added a boxwood strip that joins them tightly, adds a bit of T-profile and ensures proper alignment:

 
LED strip is mounted on a 45 degree angle, facing the inner side of the case:


 
There would be two strips running in parallel, one on top of the case, one in the bottom. Testing both:

The strips are pretty high quality, so hope it would be ok!
 
Planning to finish the glue-up and assembly after the holidays

A picture of my Beaver’s prize model.
 
Recently , I compared the historical plan from the London museum with Hahn plan.
The breadth on the body plan is not the same. Hahn plan has a larger breadth: +4mm .
By the way, the distribution of the cant frames (aft) seems to be wrong. 
 
Congratulation on your model. Framing is superb.

Thanks to all.
Knee of the head.
With Le Gros Ventre, I installed the knee of the head only on the already completely finished hull, which caused me a bit of a problem (the gap between the stem and the knee of the head). That's why I decided to make and attach the knee of the head already at this stage of the construction. In this case, the installation went without any problems.        

chesstree, fenders and the entry steps:
 

The channels:

I finished the deadeyes and deadeye strops this week.  And set a new personal record for the most discarded/rejected parts.  Haha.  I can laugh now, but at the time, it was the height of frustration.  I think to get the 8 usable deadeye strops shaped correctly and mounted, I wound up with an additional 15 or so I scrapped.  Admittedly most of that was trying to get the first couple formed.  Once I had a system down for shaping them, things went more smoothly.  I wound up chipping the paint off some of the chain plates, so had to touch that up.  And I wound up rubbing off the finish of the annealed wire I used for making the strops from handling too much, so had to blacken those again . . . which made a bit of a mess on the deadeyes from blackening smudges coming off of my fingers.  So, I had to re-sand some of the deadeyes to remove that.  All in all not the most fun part of the build.  So, I'm happy that buttons up Chapter 9 of Chuck's monograph, and I look forward to getting away from handling metal and back to working with wood for the next parts of the build!
 
Erik

After pulling some hair out, and the remainder going gray, haha, I have finished the backstay plates and chain plates . . . on the port side anyway.  I revisited blackening them, using advice here and on the internet.  My test brass strips looked OK, but I couldn't avoid bare brass spots being rubbed off after lightly wiping them down with a dry cloth.  I'm pretty sure I didn't clean the brass well enough beforehand.  After being left frustrated by that, I just went ahead and followed what Chuck had done on his, and painted them black and used a rust brown weathering powder to give them that iron look.  I'm happy with the results.  A trick I learned years ago as a model railroader with brass, is to bake the brass after painting.  Just put the parts under a hot halogen or incandescence light bulb, about an inch away from the bulb, for about five minutes.  This hardens the paint on the metal surface and makes it much more scuff resistant.  The nails themselves I ordered from ModelExpo (being my first ship build I didn't have any extras from prior builds to use).  They are the smallest ones they offer.  They're slightly rounded on the bottom of the heads, so don't appear the sit flush when pushed in.  So I used a larger diameter drill bit than the holes in the brass were drilled with, and counter sunk all the holes in the backstay and chain plates.  I also ran a sharp angled file on the underside of the heads of each nail.  This helped get the nails to snug down flat when pushed in.  After getting the parts mounted and nailed in place, I went ahead and touched up the paint and weathering powder.
 
Of all the processes involved on this build, metal working is probably the one I have the least experience in.  The backstay plates and chain plates have taken a lot longer than I thought they would.  That said, I've learned a lot, even with the error part of Trial and Error being frustrating at times!
 
Erik

I currently have 2 packages ready for immediate delivery, should have another next week, as usual I'll make the kits as needed.
 
Wood package for the Ketch rigged Sloop Speedwell
This wood package will provide all the needed strip wood to plank the model kit from Syren Ship Model Company.   You may also wish to use 3/64" or 1/32" thick sheets and cut your spiled and shaped planking from those or mill them all from other thickness sheets if you prefer to bend them and taper them on your own.  Contact me to order or for more information. Primarily Yellow Cedar with some Boxwood.
 
$130.00 + shipping                                           Contact me if interested : thewoodmansshed@gmail.com
 
Thanks,
Joe

Välkommen! 😊