bhermann

I started on the decking. I'm duplicating what I saw on another build, I'm using left over walnut planking as the center deck strip, and using the supplied clear for the rest. I had to doublestack the 0.5mm walnut strips so they would be level with the 1mm deck planks. Once all sanded smooth and a coat of sealer is applied over it, it should have a real nice appearance. The outermost plank  around the whole perimeter of the deck will be blue, once the hull is painted.
 

Moving right along...further along than I thought I would be, but hey, I enjoy working on it. I finished the second planking. This is a shot right before finished. After meeting in the upper middle with as many whole planks I could, I only had to make 4 steeler planks for each side.
 

 
And here is the finished pic. I sanded smooth, and added some sanding sealer, and lightly sanded a little more. Also, added the upper rim. I'm getting close to paint. But that has to be planned out well before starting the steps.
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 73 – Lower Deck continued
 
Work continues on the lower deck.  In the first picture a forward section of binding strake is being glued in place held by pins. 
 

 
These structural strakes were often let down on the beam by an inch or so, but because this depth is so small at this scale I did not score the beams and merely reduced the depth of the strake by an inch.  As with many details, Young America’s exact configuration is unknown.  The binding strakes are bolted into each beam and horizontally into the waterways. Inside these strakes were margin planking – wider planks that allow the ends of forward planking to be cut into them.  I will not be installing these on the deck – to leave the ends of the lodging knees visible from above.
 
In the next picture the next section of binfding strake is being installed.  Planking on the centerline is in progress.
 
 

 
This planking is 3 ½” thick.  I made these 7” wide.  These are required as bases for the middle deck pillars.  I have not yet decided if any planking beyond the two central strakes will be installed on this deck.  The next picture shows further work near the bow.
 

 
The fore hatchway is complete including its bolts.  Although not very visible due to sanding dust, the treenails and bolts for all this work have been installed.  Next is a picture of the port side forward.  There will be no ladder ways into the hold.  These would probably have been movable and taken up after the cargo was loaded – and before the hatches were sealed for the voyage.
 

 
This gives a pretty good idea of the forward view port.  The unplanked frames will be removed below the middle deck clamp down to the lower futtock heads – when I summon the courage to cut them out.
 
The next picture shows the port side aft.
 

 
The aft view port will only extend from the top of the lower deck clamp to the underside of the middle deck clamp.  Next are two pictures showing most of the hull at its current state – i.e. today.
 

 
 
 
Once the remaining bolts and treenails and the few remaining bits of binding strake and central planking are installed, I can move on the middle deck.
 
 
 Ed

thank you to one and All for your kind remarks and encouragement, I will be painting the hull within a couple of weeks.
 
On Friday I will be taking the pilot cutter to the Seba Pavilion (a stones throw from the water) for a local library summer programming activity launch) no not the cutter but I decided not to rush things and try to get a finish paint on the hull for Friday but to see how easy it will be to de-rig and re-rig her, so to that end I dropped the mast with the minimum of fuss by just slackening the shrouds, that's the nice thing about mounting on the deck I did not have to pull the mast out of the hull. the whole operation took about 5 minutes.
 

 
My it does look big in the living room.
 
Michael

All of the "standard" frames are now fitted.  The next job will be to fit some stringers to stiffen up the hull before I tackle the stern framing.  The first of the stringers - the deck clamps - have been roughed out and roughly bent ready for fitting.  Once they're in another set of stringers will be fitted along the turn of the bilge (roughly), then the next job will be to work out the stern framing.
 
John
 

 

 

 

 
 

Forecastle deck is fixed....  (after 3? months...)  I will not do nibbing here, I installed covering margin planks.  I think I found a happy medium at where the forcastle deck rests ....
 
Anyhow, I'm done with this step;  just need the iron frames on the inside of this area...
 
~Bob

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 72 – Lower Deck continued
 
The lower deck ceiling planking is almost complete.  The breadth of the filling planking - and therefore the number of strakes - varies along the length due to the hull shape.  The first picture shows an area aft of midship between view ports where a drop plank will be inserted.
 

 
The planking has been rough sanded only in this picture.
 
Other work has started as the last remaining planks get installed.  The two forward hooks have been installed as shown below.
 

 
The first middle deck beam has been fitted in this picture.  The next picture shows the run of ceiling completed on the starboard side.
 

 
The next picture shows the bolts at the planking butts installed and holes marked for drilling of treenail holes.
 

 
I will not bother installing treenails where they will be covered by the middle deck hanging knees – every other frame.
 
The next picture shows the short planking pieces over the viewport frames that will be left in place.
 

 
These small planked areas will allow hanging knees to be installed. The excess lengths of plank on one of these is being trimmed back with a small saw.  The exposed frames will later be removed - from the lower futtock heads up to the underside of the middle deck clamps. 
 
There will be minimal planking on this deck, but the hatch coamings need to be installed first.  the forward hatch parts are being fit up in place in the next picture.
 

 
After assembly - in place - the coaming will be removed and trimmed.  The completed main hatch coaming is shown below.
 

 
The lower deck coamings were not very high.  This one is just 12 “ – 8 ½” above the decking.  There is a 3” x 3” rabbet in the head ledges to seat the covering planks.  “Iron” bolts have been installed.  There is some confusing terminology with these.  The term “coaming” refers to both the entire assembly and the fore and aft members themselves.  The cross-deck members that clamp down the coaming ends are head ledges.  The above-deck corners have been rounded – common practice.
 
 
 Ed

Finished the bottom of the hull (2nd planking). Will probably switch to the top and go down soon.
 

 

"take a length of 0.5 mm wire & form a small loop in the end" say the kit instructions. I tried I really did! Then I hit on this idea. I stripped the casing from an old phone extension cable , inside are several strands of very thin copper wire. I took 2 strands, 3 times the required length & folded them equally over a fine drill bit, grasped the strands of wire between thumb & finger close up to the drill bit & twisted the drill bit round a few times & then gripped the loose ends in a mini clamp & carried on twisting till I got to the end. This creates a nice rope effect with a neat hole for the footropes to pass through. I then passed the stirrup through a pre drilled hole in the yard to leave the required length sticking out ,the spare wire was then divided in two & laid the ends along the spar, this was then lashed over with fine thread & coated in watered down PVA glue, when set ,I painted the yard & stirrup black. Sorry if I am "Teaching my Granny to suck eggs"but it worked for me!  Geoff

Wow- two months with no update.
 
Before starting, I recall that I read about sailors creating crafts in their spare time.  They took scraps of rope and made decorative macrame, made ship models, etc etc.  I work with linemen and I discovered that some take the scrap clippings from skinning and trimming wires and make things out of them.  This scorpion was made from one underground transformer installation's clipped ground wire.
 

 
On to my toy boat.  I have finished all of the metal work.  I decided against trying to form hooks on all of the blocks, but have made them for a few of the bigger more prominent ones.  The others I'm tying on.
 
I started making sails.  This is how I did it.  I wanted 1/4" extra materials on all sides to that I could make a 1/8" casing for the cue lines.  (The casing is folded twice).  So, I carefully measured on the plans and marked the intersections of the 1/4" extended lines.
 

 
Then I laid the fabric on the plans and using a disappearing fabric marker and drafting techniques laid out the sail on the fabric.
 


 
Then, it was off to the sail making department where skilled craftswoman turned my sketches into reality.  (SWMBO or Admirable).
 

 
I installed the first sail and am generally happy.  I plan on using glue water and gravity to finish it up after the others are installed.


 

Part 2.
This is the stage where I am now. 
I painted hull with Caldercraft Admirality waterbased colors. On scrap wood I tried Matt Caldercraft varnish over black and red color, but I'm not happy with the result. Do you always varnish hull after paintig process to seal the paint, or I can leave as it is now? 

Hi All, I have been plugging away at the port side planking. I have completed most of the first l
ayer of planking and given it a quick sanding with some 120 grit sandpaper. Once it is finished I'll
sand it down to 400 grit and then add the second layer for the wales.
Then it's over to the starboard side!
 

 

 
It's always slow going this time of year but that's ok.

Okay, so here's the photos that I didn't get to take last night.   I'm still experimenting with the photography, but the pics seem to be getting better. 
 
First up, I made a "handle" from copper wire and looped it through the gunwales to provide a handhold while painting.  It also served as a holding post for the vice while the paint dried:
 

 

 
Here is the current state of play with painting.  Probably just one or two clear coats of Dull Cote for protection now:
 

 

 
Meanwhile, progress with the Cutters (well, one of them anyway):
 
Here's the keel:
 

 
And with frames placed in the building board and frame "plugs" inserted (as per the Launch):
 

 
And without the Plug:
 

 

 
Finally, here's a couple of shots of both the Pinnace and Cutter Plugs for comparison.  They are really quite different hull forms:
 

 

 
The Admiral is giving me "the look" again, so that's it for now!!!

Finished the first planking. Just need to fill in the cracks and give it a good sanding. I'm on a cruise next week, so wont be doing much work on her past Sunday.
 
Here are the first planking pics.
 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 71 – Lower Deck Standing/Ceiling Strakes
 
Work continued on the remaining lower deck waterways and standing strakes.  Filling planking was also begun at the bow.  The first picture shows planking being glued on both sides – with the aid of clamps and wedges.
 

 
The second picture shows the horizontal bolts – two per frame – through the standing strake and the frames.  The standing strake is the thick member atop the waterway.
 

 
These are monofilament.  Through holes were drilled from the inside with a right angle drill.  Those through the waterway below are functional copper wire bolts with epoxy as discussed earlier.  They have not yeyt been blackened. 
 
The next picture shows further progress with the forward planking.
 
 

 
All the filling planks on this deck are  6” thick. The picture also shows planking on the port side in progress.  The glued plank is held by wedges in this case.  The next picture taken at the same time shows the space left open for the view port.
 

 
The X-marked frames will be cut out later.  Small pieces of waterway have been installed on the frames that will be left.  these will be planked up so that hanging knees can be installed on the beams at these locations,   All the small pieces will be trimmed back to the frame faces as shown at the forward end of the opening.
 
The next picture shows all the planks installed on the forward port side.
 

 
Fastenings need to be installed on all this planking – bolts for the heavy structural members and treenails for the ordinary ceiling planks. 
 
In the next picture the middle deck clamps near the stem have been dubbed off and are being checked with the ruler.
 

 
This will allow the middle deck hook to be fitted.  The will also be a breast hook between the two decks.
 
 
 Ed

Lashing The Lower Shroud Battens
The Morgan had wooden battens instead of rope ratlines on the lower shrouds. Instructions will show that they are tied on with a diagonal lashing, they where actually tied on with a square lashing. The battens are spaced the same as regular rope ratlines are spaced. On this model that would be right around a 1/4'', so that is the spacing I use. This is how I found it easiest to tie the battens onto the shrouds without actually gluing them to the shrouds.
 
LETS GET STARTED: (Done in gray-scale for clarity.)
Material I am using is 2 strands of DMC dark brown embroidery floss (waxed), and 1/32''x 1/32'' basswood strips.
Step 1: To get the first batten in place, I measure up from the deadeye channel the same distance as on the plans. After this first measurement, I didn't find the plans to be of much help for spacing. The thickness of the battens are 1/32'', and all the plans show are single thickness lines. So after the first measurement from the deadeye channel, I space each succeeding batten a 1/4'' from the last one I did. At that measurement, I tie the end of a 6'' length of floss to each shroud, using a clove hitch knot.
Step 2: I dab a little diluted white glue to the knots.
Step 3 & 4: Cut off the small tails of the floss.

Step 5: I cut each batten at least 1 mm longer than the width of the shroud. A little longer wouldn't hurt, as it give you more room for lashing. I hold in place, right at the top of the knots, and wrap the floss around it. I start with a shroud in the middle so the batten won't twist away while lashing it.
Step 6: The first wrap pulls the batten, and shroud together.
Step 7: The second wrap tightens, and holds the first wrap.
Step 8: I finish off with a half hitch under the batten, pulling it tight.

Step 9: I now apply a dab of the diluted glue onto the half hitch knot under the batten, and just barely touching the batten with the glue as I do this to prevent the batten from sliding out of the lashings. Important thing, is not to get glue on the battens, that will show up later.
Step 10: Cut the remaining floss, and there is enough to do another batten.
Step 11: To put a finish on the battens, and floss, I applied a coat of Micro-Mark age-it easy brown, and 2 coats of Micro-Mark railroad tie and bridge stain. These worked well for me, as this is the same solutions I use to color my rigging. The battens could be finished before rigging them. I find it easier to do it afterwords.

 

Thank you Joe.
 
The Cutting Tackle.
 
The kit supplies blocks for the cutting tackle, but they look nothing like real ones on the ship. So I used the small reddish colored piece of wood from the kit (cherry I think), and made blocks for this. The hooks required some cleaning, and smoothing before I could use them. Once I had these made, I put the whole works in Black-in It, blocks, too. After the black-in it did its job, I used weathering powder to simulate the rust, and to get the weathered look on the blocks.
 



 

What I should have added yesterday is one more reason for me having the gantry boom hanging kinda low is that I need to run antenna wires over the top of the gantry.  Normally, when loading a torpedo the boom is pulled up to a higher angle, of course, to get a good loading angle on the torpedo.  I don't know yet if I'll change things later on to show the torp actually being in the process of sliding into the loading tube below deck.  That would really be the cat's meow but then I would also need a bunch of characters on deck handling the operation and that's not in the plans - - - so far    But one never knows - - - - - -
 
Today has been very slow in the dockyard.  I have been mulling things over to what project / model I should tackle next.  I have been procrastinating the propellers for many months now and think it's time to cut the mustard - grab the bull by the horns - and make the props.  I'm really a little apprehensive tackling this difficult project.  But then again, I have enough copper sheet so I can botch-up a lot of blades.  
 
As I was thinking and thinking I made a proto shell for the deck gun.  I wanted to see what was involved making a bunch to fight off those large and heavy guns from Sjors and Mobbsy and perhaps a few others who want to do battle             
I know, they need to be a little smaller and the grenade more pointy but the idea is there.  At least I don't have to make powder bags, water mops, stampers and steel balls 
I have not filled the shell with black powder (yet) so it's still a dummy ((like me  ))
 
One thing I see is that I really should use brass for the shell casing, copper won't do.  But it's just a prototype.
 
Thanks everyone for visiting and your likes, it's really very encouraging.
 

Here is the prototype deck gun shell standing on the deck next to the loading breech.  I still need to add the outlines of that on the gun.
 

This is a plastic boat from my Thermopile clipper kit to hang it temporarily on it's boom.  I was tired of seeing a socket wrench hanging off the hook.
 
Cheers,

Rick,
 
We've been telling users that when they have issues (about IE11).  Yes, there's a big difference in browsers.  For example, if you hate ads, use Firefox and it's Adblock add-on.   However, they all have their advantages and disadvantages and it's usually not the same ones for each.
 
Having said all that... MS did release a pretty hefty update to IE11 but I haven't loaded up 11 or the updates to see if they work.   I guess I'm getting lazy since I retired from IT.. 

Things are moving along faster than I expected...probably because I had a lot of time to work on it this weekend. I filed the filler blocks and the support blocks on the keel, and first planking looked ready to go, so I laid the first two strips.
 

 

Here are some pictures of the rigging.
 


 
I serve my rigging with 80wt thread.
 

Rigging of the Bowsprit.
 

Hey Mark, it feels great to be reviving my Morgan build. My first order of business after I'm done here, is to clean the dust off of it, that's going to be a challenge in itself.
 
This is the last of the text log I have, after this it will probably be just pictures until I get to where I can get things going again for new entries.
 
Deck Structures:
Besides the tryworks itself, building the deck structures is where a lot of building enjoyment comes in. The kit instructions give alternatives for these. You can plank the structures, or scribe the planking into the supplied sheet stock. At first I tried the scribing, figured it would be easier, and faster to do, but after putting so much work, and time into building the tryworks, I didn’t feel right about just scribing in the details, plus I didn’t like the looks of it. So, I decided to take the time, and build these as I did the tryworks.

The plans that come with the kit shows a lot of construction details for the structures, and accompanied by the vast amount of actual photos of the actual ship that are available, the amount of work, and detail that one could put into these are amazing.

First thing I would suggest doing, is in pencil, make a layout of all the structures on the deck. This way you will have an idea of how it all fits together, and will help with placement of the structures in their correct alignment.

As an example of some things that I did. When I built the Hurricane house, and the smaller Deck House & Berth, I used the 1/32” sheet basswood provided in the kit, and planked over it using 1/32” x 1/16” strips for the siding. I did exaggerate the gaps between the planks though. I did this so the detail of the planking would standout more at a distance, and in an attempt to give it more realism. I used slightly thicker strips for the base boards, and corner trimming. The doors, I made by cutting individual pieces (frame & panel) so they would be built basically the same way as a real door.

In my opinion, the plans show some very good detail for building the deck structures, and the many details that go with them. Just take your time with the structures, as they are a modeling experience all their own. If you enjoy the building part as much as I do, you’ll enjoy this part very much.

Pre-Rigging the Tall Ship Model
By Peter Jaquith
 
Some ship modelers prefer to erect the masts, spars, and rigging in much the same sequence period ships were rigged (e.g. lower masts, lower shrouds, top masts, topmast shrouds, etc.).  Other ship modelers pre-rig the masts, spars, and sails with blocks and standing/running rigging components before final installation on the model.  The following notes describe the pre-rigging process as applied to the construction of my Topsail Schooner “Eagle” of 1847 build:
 
Rigging Strategy – My rigging strategy for the Topsail Schooner “Eagle” build was to install all possible eyebolts, blocks, standing/running rigging lines and components on the masts, spars, and sails prior to erection onboard the model.  Where appropriate, I constructed sail/spar assemblies to further complete rigging work on the bench prior to erection onboard the model.
Rigging Planning – Using a markup of the ship’s rigging plans, each rigging component/rigging line was identified and assigned to its installation stage with due consideration given to maintaining flexibility for onboard adjustment.  Once the plan review was completed, check lists were prepared by mast, spar, sail, and sail/spar assembly to track these installations.
Pre-Rigging the Gaffs & Booms – Boom and gaff pre-rigging included yard bands, eyebolts, parrel assemblies, blocks, and standing/running rigging lines associated with the respective spar.  Examples include boom sheet assemblies, boom sheet, boom topping lift, boom footropes, gaff throat and peak halyards, gaff vangs, and gaff topsail eyebolts and blocks.
Pre-Rigging the Topsail & Lower Yards – Topsail and lower yard pre-rigging included yard bands, eyebolts, parrel assemblies, blocks, and standing/running rigging lines associated with the respective spar.  Examples include yard trusses assembly; parrel assembly; jackstays; footropes; brace pendants; halyards; clewline, reef tackle, sheet, and bunt line blocks.
Pre-Rigging the Sails – Sail pre-rigging included running rigging blocks and lines associated with the respective sail.  Examples include sail hanks, mast hoops, halyards, downhauls, outhauls, inhauls, tacks, sheets, clewlines, bunt lines, and reef tackle.
Pre-Rigging the Masts – Mast pre-rigging included mast/cap bands, futtock shrouds, mast hoops, boom rest assemblies, mast coats, eyebolts, blocks, and the standing/running rigging associated with the respective mast. Examples include lower yard clevis assembly, lower shrouds, futtock shrouds, topmast shrouds, backstays, main and fore stays, throat and peak halyard blocks/runners, boom topping lift, yard lifts, yard brace blocks/runners, halyards, and buntline blocks.     
Sail & Spar Assemblies – The fore and main sails were assembled with their respective booms/gaffs, the fore topsail was assembled on its topsail yard, and the main gaff topsail was added to the aft mast assembly.  These assemblies allowed further completion of the running rigging on the bench top vs. onboard the model.
Rigging the Bowsprit & Jibboom – Head rigging (including bobstays, martingale stays, bowsprit guys, jibboom guys, and the bowsprit/jibboom footropes) was installed onboard the model prior to mast installation.  Tie in of the fore stay, jib stay, and fore topmast stay will be accomplished after fore mast installation.
Mast Erection & Standing Rigging Completion – Following mast erection on the model; the main triatic and topmast stays were tied off to the fore mast and the lower shrouds, backstays, and fore stays were tied off and secured with deadeyes and lanyards.  The head sails were fitted to the fore stays prior to their connection to the bowsprit/jibboom.  Additionally, ratlines were installed onboard the model.
Spar, Sail, & Running Rigging Completion – The remaining sails and sail/spar assemblies were installed onboard the model working from aft forward.  All the remaining running rigging associated with the sails and spars were tied off and completed in the same sequence.  Flags and rigging coils were added after completion of other rigging tasks.
 
While the pre-rigging strategy described above does require some up front planning; it significantly reduces onboard rigging work resulting in improved access and reduced risk of damage to the model during the rigging process.  I find that pre-rigging makes the rigging process far more manageable, although I admit that at one point it seemed as though I would never ever finish all the pre-rigging check list items preceding mast erection.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 70 – Waterways
 
In the last post I mentioned the bolt density on the outside of the frames.  This can be seen in the first picture.
 

 
The nails are part of the clamps being used to secure a section of waterway inside for gluing.  The pins are markers for some of the through bolt holes drilled for this section.  There will be more – one in each frame pair.  The lower deck hanging knee bolts have not yet been installed.  These will be dummy bolts only and dummy bolts will only be installed where the frames will be left exposed – lower hull on this side.  It was not practical to drill for through knee bolts.  All of the bolts for the ironwork lattice have been installed on this side plus of course many others for the members installed earlier.
 
The next picture shows the aft starboard section of waterway being fitted.
 

 
The outboard face has to be beveled to fit against the frames.  The next picture shows a copper wire bolt for this piece being clipped on the outside.
 

 
I had a bit of rework to do on the main deck clamps aft of midship.  For some reason – perhaps I neglected to plumb the hull before marking some of them – their fairness was off on both sides.  I saw this on one of those deck-level camera shots.  Since they were bolted on, removing them was a chore, but the new clamps are much better.
 

 
In this picture a batten has been clamped to the side under the deck clamp to help keep the sections aligned at the scarph joints where it is easy to get a kink in the line.
 
Although the main deck does not extend aft of frame 36, I decided to extend the deck clamps right through the cabin, joining it to a half-hook at the stern.  The half-hook on the starboard side is shown in the next picture.
 

 
This hook is interrupted by the sternpost.  Its wide breadth is dictated by the bevel required to fit on to the frames.  There will be a deck full-width hook for the cabin deck about 4 feet below this – just at the top of the inner post.  The cabin deck is a sort of mezzanine between the middle deck and the main deck.
 
The last picture shows the first section of 12” x 10” standing strake installed atop the he forward waterway.
 

 
The second section is clamped and glued in this picture.  This strake has vertical hook scarphs.
 
 
 Ed