bhermann

Well hello....it's been another while - I see now that my last update with photos was before Christmas!! Shameful....but there are some photos now. The last shots were of the mizzen crossjack yard. Since then, I've constructed, outfitted and rigged the mizzen topsail yard, the main course and topsail yards and made & outfitted the main topgallant yard - to be rigged soon (Thursday with any luck). The list of things still to be completed is shrinking. And as I've been kept away mostly from building, I've made due with plotting out my next two builds - finishing rigging tables for the Fair Rosamund (OcCre Dos Amigos) and the Yacht America (Mamoli). Both will be made more or less out of the box, I think (after all the modifications and corrections on the Blandford, I'm looking for something more or less straightforward....I may replace some parts on both but no major modifications on these...
 
Anyway, here are the photos documenting the progress to date on Blandford - you'll notice in the first couple perhaps that the mizzen topsail yard is a little jaunty - I fixed this as I hope is visible in the final shots. Hope you're all keeping well and having fun!
hamilton
 

 

 

 

 

 

Although many people no longer recognize the history, James Bond's destructive wheel spinners were actually based on a tactic developed by the Bluenose who used "nails of death" to rip the shrouds and chainplates off competitor's ships!
 

 
Okay, it has been a really long day.

Thanks Greg, I think I started doing that on the Confederacy.
 
Glad to have you here Jim. Are you going to make it up to CT for the show?
 
Hi Dirk, I hope you do build her. I would love to see it.
 
Also thanks everyone for stopping by and all the likes.
 
I had a great weekend. The real world left me to my devices  and I had a lot of
shop time.  Bulkheads are all cut out and stacked as previously mentioned and I
then attacked the bulkhead former . It is laid out in two pieces and I thought of
just cutting it out as one whole piece. But as Chuck pointed out to me that getting
one piece of plywood that long that wouldn't twist would be extremely difficult.
So after an unsuccessful search I relented and cut it from two pieces. I knew  I
shouldn't have wasted my time but then again I'm not known for my better
judgment and decision making.  
 
Any way the former plans were cut out and glued up, then I cut it out on the scroll
saw and fine tuned it with the disk sander and a sanding block. Once satisfied I
applied glue to both pieces, put wax paper over and under the joint, placed a scrap
board on it and some heavy weights and allowed it to dry over night.
 

 

 

 

 
Now I will test fit all of the bulkheads and then start gluing them up.  

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 48 – Starboard Ceiling Treenailing and Bolting
 
In the first picture, the floor ceiling planking is installed except for Treenailing.  The thicker bilge ceiling above it  has been completed up to the underside of the lower deck clamp, except for the bolting.
 
 
 
While the last few strakes of bilge ceiling were being installed both the bolting and treenailing was begun.  The next picture shows some of these fasteners installed.
 

 
The copper wire bolts in the thicker ceiling show as bright dots in this picture.  They were iron bolts driven through each frame and riveted flush inside and out.  Before finish is applied these will be blackened.  This section of floor planking below the thicker strakes has been treenailed and some sanding has begun.  The butt ends of these planks were secured with iron blunts, represented here by black monofilament CA glued in.
 
All of the tree nailing was completed in three sessions that included making the treenail strips from bamboo skewers.  In the next picture one of these .020” strips has been dipped in glue and is being inserted into a predrilled hole.
 

 
The holes are just large enough for a slip fit.  After pressing to the bottom of the hole using the clippers, the strip is cut off as shown below, the new end is sharpened with a razor blade and the process is repeated a few hundred times.
 

 
The excess glue is washed off with clean water.  When dry the nail heads are filed off flush as shown below.
 

 
The planking was then sanded with 120-grit followed by 220-grit paper and then buffed with Scotchbrite as shown below.
 

 
The next picture shows the area at the stern after these steps.
 

 
The next picture shows a section of the ceiling after all of the treenailing was installed and the planking sanded and buffed. 
 

 
The wire bolting of the thicker strakes is only partially complete on the right side of this picture. The treenails are not too pronounced in this picture, but they will “pop out” and be more visible when finish is applied later.  The iron bolts at the butts are quite visible here.  The copper bolts into the top of the keelson at the lower margin of the picture were copper and will not be blacked.
 
All of the ceiling work on the starboard side is now complete.  The next step will be to sand down the bolts on the outside of the frames and then move on to the ceiling on the port side.
 
 Ed

Thanks Per! Good pictures except for that grey haired guy. When did he get so old? Do let me know when you are up for another house call. We accomplished a lot and had some great music. It was a wonderful weekend!
 
For the rest of my viewers. I was assigned a very demanding project the day Dr. Per left. So the planking has slowed. But I do at least 4 planks a day. The new project if successful will create over 1000 jobs in many countries for my company. So I am working 12 hr. days and 7 days a week for a couple of weeks. I will post pics as soon as there is something significant to report.
 
Also look who just achieved the rank of Captain. I think that extra stripe look pretty good.

Hi Daniel,
 
Thanks, I like to use ribbands on the amidships section and small jigs at the bow and stern. I won’t be filling the space between the frames on this ship but I will on my next build.
 
I made a small saw tooth jig to hold the bow cant frames in place while the glue dried. These photos show how I used it.
 

After spending a couple of hours yesterday sorting out the whole splicing gig, I felt that it would be much easier to clamp the smaller lines to free up both hands while threading and weaving the strands back on themselves so using up a few odds and ends this is what I came up with.
 
first I took the dremel chuck out of the earlier mini drill and fitted it to an ebony block. The dremel chuck will allow for different size ropes because of the interchangeable collets.
 

 
The other end was made from a short length of 3/8 hex brass both ends can be rotated in their holders.
 

 
By using an adjustable clamp I can use different rope sizes and create different eye sizes easily
 

 

 
After the rope is clamped to the loop end the rope is pulled through the dremel collet then the collet tightened to put some tension on the rope that will be threaded into. I did have to drill through the dremel holder to allow the rope to pass through.
 
 

 
and now rotated a quarter turn
 

 
Tomorrow I will see how the clamp works.
 
Michael
 
 
 

I spent some more time getting the fore mast done. It's complete except for the cleats that go on the octagonal section at the base and completing the trestle tree at the top.
 
I took a picture of her with all of the masts and booms but it's too blurry to post. It's going to be a tall model when it's done. I don't really know where I'm going to put it.
 
I also made up some gauges that are the proper 13.5° and 15.5° to set the masts. I'll post pictures of them and how I made them later.
 
I then moved on to the pin rail and fire extinguisher and bilge pumps. The fire extinguisher are made of bronze. I don't have any paint that simulates old bronze and the gold that is included in the kit doesn't look anything like bronze.
 
So I decided to switch to plastic model paint (Model Masters and Testors). I put on a coat of gold and then dry brushed on a coat of a dark oxide. The results are a serviceable bronze look. I don't feel like the castings are very good. They seem more like blobs that sort of look like bilge pumps.
 

 
I then attached the pumps and fire extinguisher to the deck. It feels good to finally install parts onto the deck permanently! The engine controls box and pin rail are not installed (the engine controls are backwards anyways).
 

 
Next up: deck eye bolts, deck cleats, and finishing up the details on the inside of the wale. After that I should be able to start installing the deck furniture.
 
It feels like I'm finally making some sort of progress again.

Little update on the ship, haven't had much free time for modelling...
 
The ornamentation on the left side of the ship is mostly done. Also I have done the decorative "sprouts" on both ship sides.
 
Work on the beakheads also started. I was thinking for a long time how to build them as I see this as quite a challenging work. Finally decided to use the brass rails that came with the kit which were bent and then I applied Sculpey. After baking it was sanded and then repeated this process several times.
They will be blackened and also I will create and put the ornaments there...
 
Best regards,
Jan

I thought I should expand on the ratline situation.  I am not sure if there is a hard and fast rule as to their spacing.  The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships makes a note that they are 13 inches apart.  However several photos that I have of the USS Constitution that have Marines clinging to them show they run from the sole of the foot to just under the knee cap.  Of course the guy could be only five feet tall, but I do not think so.  That puts their spacing closer to 16 inches apart.  I cut all of the ratlines off of the starboard side.  I clove hictched to every shroud so that means I had to redo over one thousand knots!!  I was pretty bummed.  However the new spacing looks better visually and more like some of the other finished models I have seen.  The first photo is spacing every "13" inches, or about 4.5 mm, second photo is spacing 5.5mm.  Not much, but over all the whole asswmbly looks so much better.
I have all the yards done, all the tackle made for them, (photos later), and am starting to install the horsses on them.

I think I was amember of this forum a long time ago?  does anyone remember my ship model of the Uss Pennsylvania of 1837?  My Name is Greg I am 56 years old and the ship is about 90% finished now.

For those that were following my previous build of the Syren, here I go again. Had a bit of a snafu getting the replacement parts from ME this time, but as usual they came through and all is good.
 
The bulkhead former, bulkheads, and everything are not the nasty laser burnt ply of before. I am hoping this new wood will turn out to be more stable and not crumble to pieces as before. I haven't quite figured out what exactly the wood is they used for this...very light weight, large grained, and I swear it is balsa....but my mind seems to think no one would use balsa for the skeleton of a ship....but what do I know.
 
So first the obligatory box and contents pictures



 
 
My boxwood upgrade from Jeff at Hobby Mills

 
new former with bulkheads squared and glued!


 
So to my friends and followers, wish me luck that this third attempt truly is the charm!
 
AND WE ARE OFF!!!
 
 

After some sanding and a quick coat of primer it looks much better.  I admit I still have work to do on the paint to smooth out many rough spots but it isn't anything that can't be overcome!  
 
Cheers,
Tim
 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 47 – Bilge and Floor Ceiling
 
The first picture shows the 8” thick bilge ceiling being extended up the underside of the lower deck clamp.  The clamp would have been edge bolted down into these thick members.  With the clamps and frames they formed a sort of girder over the length of the hull to combat hogging.
 

 
I mentioned earlier that these 8” x 8” bilge ceiling members required some serious clamping to close their joints.  The next picture shows some remodeled clamps used to assist in this work.
 

 
In these clamps the old jaws were replaced with stronger versions.  I used the strongest wood I could find in my old scraps collection.  The dark colored jaws are black walnut and the lighter ones hickory from and old axe handle.  The walnut clamps had the ends of their jaws narrowed down to fit between the frames from the outside.  The next picture shows a pair of these being used to close up a joint.
 

 
Up near the deck clamp, soft pine wedges could be used to close the joints as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows the hull inverted so the epoxy bolts on the outside could be sanded off – to help save my hands when working from the outside.  There are many more of these bolts to add as the bilge ceiling progresses.
 

 
The next picture shows the first few strakes of 4” thick floor ceiling installed.  The contortions from the convex to the concave hull shape made this interesting at the ends.
 

 
All of this 4” and 8” thick ceiling was of hard pine, so I am using Castello for it.  Pear is being used for all oak.  The next picture shows a strake being installed using .021" pleating pins in tight drilled holes to hold it in place when glued.
 

 
The dark area is wet from washing off glue from between the strakes.  One edge of these planks is coated with dark brown latex paint (before ripping) and dark glue has been used on that face.  Plain yellow glue was used on the frames and washed off from the outside between the frames with a wet toothbrush.  In the next picture the floor ceiling has been completed down to the limber channel.
 

 
Several stealers had to be installed so the final strake would be parallel to the keelson.  The next picture shows the limber channel.
 

 
When this picture was taken, the planking had been leveled out with rifflers and some sanding.  Bolts were then installed at the ends of each plank.  Each plank will next be treenailed at every frame.  Can’t wait.
 
 
 Ed

The bands for the foremast are now complete and are in the process of drying.  The top band was the only tough one.   Now on to the spars.
 

 
I've been working on and off to find the size of the hoops that capture the deadeyes.  Center to center of the holes is 1.2 cm in case anyone needs to know - for the larger dead eyes.  Don't know about the smaller ones yet.
 

 
I hate to paint the deadeyes, as I think they are pretty in contrast to the black bands.  Oh well.  On all the ships I have visited in my MANY MANY minutes of travel, they are all painted.
 
EDIT: Changed 12 cm to 1.2 cm.  Americans aren't that good with the meteric system!

MacGyver was unable to find matchsticks, so we used these. I was unable to find suitable bricks, so I made them from wood. (Having said that, 250 people will direct me to the bricks I needed.)
 
I remember having small scale individual bricks many years ago. I tried hobby stores, train scores and Google to find them. I was able to find adequate brickage from a fine company in UK at a reasonable price, but the shipping/associated cost were just too much.
 
I used padauk wood and stained holly.
 
Mr. Jefferson looks on, wondering if Mr. Franklin has that stove thing patented yet.
 

The hearth and first couple courses completed. This is where the cook stove sits on the PHILDELPHIA in the Smithsonian.
 

Here is where it sits on the plans.
 

The athwartship mast support is in place. What could POSSIBLY go wrong here???? Don't let the safety guys see this!!!!
 
I'm not sure why the PHILLY didn't burn to the waterline or explode long before the battle. This does not look like a very good place for a cook stove, but my readings indicate this IS where it was. They are able to see the charring on the underside of the mast support.
 

Maybe this thing will work on the 18th Century Longboat (same scale). What do you think????? Maybe I can sub-contract to Chuck P so he can provide an after market add on to the longboat kit.

So here is an update on my progress.
 
First a couple of comments -
 
1. I decided to dispense with the drop keel. It only detracts form the wonderful lines.
2. As discussed in Sailor's log the instructions are very unclear about the first row of planking. but it appears we both agree that it should be flush with the false deck. There is a double wide strip that lays on the edge of the deck that will cover the seam.
3. I had a slight wow in the keel. And thanks to a house call from Dr. Per I discovered the problem before it was difficult to fix.
4. I had to add material to both sides of 5 bulkheads so that the first plank was flush.
5. I should also mention I plan to paint all of the hull. and there will be no 2nd layer of planking. Easy Peasy.
 
So without further delay -

Continuing with the Foremast Yard Braces.
The Fore topgallant yard brace originates at the main topmast stay collar, runs through the block on a pendant from the yard, returns to the block on the topmast stay collar, then through  a block at the aft of the foretop and belays to a cleat at the belfry.
 

 
The brace runs from the block on the collar to a block on the aft of the foretop and then to the belfry.
 

 
Next on to the mainmast yard braces, with great care to avoid dismasting the ship.
Cheers, Gil

FOREMAST YARD BRACES; in separate posts.
 

 
Fore coarse yard brace. Begins from the main stay collar, to the yard pulley, returns to a block on the main stay collar and then down to the fore brace bitts.
 

 
Fore coarse yard brace block
 

 
Fore topsail yard brace, runs from the main stay collar, through a block from a pendant off the yard, returns to the block on the mainstay collar, then down the main stay and through a block to a block on the first skid beam, belaying to pins on the second skid beam.  (As mentioned earlier, different sources show the presence or absence of pendants for the brace blocks).
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Alright, photos as promised.
 
The stern anchor pocket is little more than a light baffle on the model. Given the confines of the area, and the limits of actual visibility, not much more is needed. The pillar in the middle is to correct a downwards bow in the deck at that point, and will remain in place.
 
As I said earlier, all the hull sections are now in place, as well as now the last remaining deck section. There is a considerable ammount of filling and sanding needed in order to clean everything up. Having the hull finished means I can also get to work installing some of the deck fittings, bollards and fairleads and the like. Since they will all start out being painted the same colour as the deck, I'm not worried about work arounds at this time.
 
Anyway, one more overview shot, from the stern this time.
 
Yes... she's big.... 4' 8" long...
 
 
Andy

It's starting to take shape! There is a slight warp in one of the middle bulkheads that I couldn't straighten out. I'm not sure if it will be an issue or not? All the rest of them are square so I think it will be ok. My next step is checking the fairness. However, I was wondering if I should install the transom first? Or am i thinking to hard? 
 
 
 

 

 

Wow!  I have gotten some great tips on priming.  I had no idea.  I will definitely follow your priming tips on my big USS Constitution that I am going to do after this small one.  So, after I get all the parts washed, then the first step is to put primer on everything before I start painting anything?
 
Well, I did it.  I finally got my white stripes to where I like them.  The hobby store said the didn't carry the dullcoat.  I will still get some somewhere else for later project.  Anyway, I decided to test the Testors white pen, and I like the results.  I am sure I am going to get a lot of practice taping off when I work on my next ship.  I am going to also practice on my spare ships.  I am just glad to have the white stripes done on this one.  I also got my other 2 masts done.
 
Nemad thanks for the brush examples.  What size is that really small one, and do you just use it for detail work?  I have brushes down to 0.
 

 

 
  

Well, I nearly finished the main mast.   The plans indicate the hardware was either painted white or galvanized.  I opted for galvanized on the masts various other topside items.  I'm following a theory here that on the ships I have seen the hardware was not specially painted to show.  Rather, if painted it was painted the same color (and probably same paint) as surrounding areas.
 
For the top of the main top mast, I decided against trying to make a brass strip look right, so I just twisted some wire and soldered it up. 
 
For the area of abrasion around the boom rest I used the dull side of aluminum foil.
 
The last thing to do is the spring wire loop and the small ring.  Then on to the foremast where I suppose most things will be done the same.
 

Thank you E&T.
 
Ok Ben.... you should have excused yourself.  You had insider information!
 
Yes Chuck has graciously allowed me access to the Winnie and I will be starting her shortly.
As this will be a long slow build while he continues to design her I will try to complete the Fly
at the same time. Gotta keep the Grand kids happy you know!  
 
I have completed the stand. I made it out of some Maple I had available.
 
 

 

 

 
I kept the dowels low on the stand so they wouldn't cover the frame work. Now I just have to put
on a couple of coats of sealer and I can set the cross section in it.

Kimberly
 
Given the number of bumps molded into the hull, I'd say you did a very good job.  As Harvey said, we are often our own worst critics and we can drive ourselves crazy trying to get everything "perfect".  The good news - when you get to the larger scale Conny down the road, those bumps (which are part of the chain plates) will be separate pieces that get attached after the stripe is painted, which will make the taping off much easier.  Sometimes the small scale plastic models try to put so much pre-formed detail into the mold that it makes it very difficult to work with.
 
If you had started your taping-off experiment with the copper plating, you would have gotten a better feel for how well the process can work.  There is much less in the way at that section of the hull and it is possible to get a much cleaner tape and paint line down.  I agree with Harvey, take a step away for a day or two, work on something else, and then come back to this.  You may find that it looks better than you think it does right now.  It's always that "patience" thing .  I have heard it said that patience is the most important tool in the toolbox, and the more I do this, the more I believe it.
 
Bob