42rocker

Good Luck to you on your build and Enjoy it.
 
Later Tim

I suggest trying it both ways.  I built the Cross-Section as designed and my current project is the Hahn method.  I've got the stubby fat fingers and really didn't have much issue either way.  You might surprise yourself.

Thanks for the good information Gary.  Constantly learning in this hobby.
 
This evening I had some time and have diagrammed out my plan for the outside planking.  I had wanted to include some locking planks for the experience in making them and also the look they provide. 
 

 
With the space available I am opting for two regular plank runs, one on both sides of the locking planks.  The final run is the trim piece that totally encircle the open space.  I am still undecided if I should work from the mid section to the outside or from the hull towards the middle, but will probably work from the outside in.
 
Lots of sanding and fitting in my future.
mark
 

Did CH-34's and CH53's in the USMC.  Avionics, test flight pay as co-pilot (ah.. the stories), door gunner.  Jack of all trades as needed.    Also various bits and pieces of a/c and flight simulators as a tech writer.    As I said, jack of all trades.

Raymond,
 
The way you're building your frames now is much like the Hahn method.  That method does leave a few things to be desired in that it wastes a lot of wood, and if every joint isn't perfect the frame won't be as strong, however, it is faster.  Cutting out each futtock and joining them saves the wood, ensures each joint is precise and if chocks are added, it can be exactly as the real ones were made.  The disadvantage is that it's slower. 
 
As Russ said, build it your way.

Raymond,
 
It does NOT correspond to the full version, intentionally.  It was designed only to give people experience doing plank on frame and the conficts were due to decisions by the designer to simplify things somewhat.
 
As for adding to the build,  peruse the completed builds.  There's several with additions such as wells, shot lockers, etc.
 
Masting is on a spreadsheet.

Interesting Start. Good Luck with it.
 
Later Tim

Update time... Things have not been quiet in the shipyard.
 
I laminated the plans to some MDF and attached a strip of wood at the reference line.  Also attached the stern framing to this so as not to mis-read any critical dimension.

 
The strip allows me to use the Ed Tool without any induced errors from having it canted slightly.

 
I've marked all the plans with appropriate reference marks and rescanned them all.  Also broke up Version 1.0 in order salvage certain bits..  like everything along the centerline... bitts, grates, pin rails, pumps, capstan, etc., some or all of the deck beams but none of the deck planking.   Also salvaged the mast steps and the stern framing.  I'll use the stern framing for some references.

 
I'm currently cutting out with as much precision as I can muster, a new build board.  I noted that on the old one, there were some frame notches that we either too deep or not deep enough.  Stupidity on my part.  I'll be re-using the previous version of the frame squaring jig (on the right in the picture).

 
Hopefully, in the next week or so, I can start cutting the keel, deadwood, and stem.  Since the wood for framing won't be here until early May, I'm planning on building some sub-assemblies such as most of the deck furniture.   I've located a local source of good birch plywood,  and am considering Woodcraft or the local source for masting materials and some other items.

Best way to get their books. Fly to Paris and pick them up. While there go to several of the great museums that feature model ships. I found a lot of the books in several book stores. Used and new. I think that I brought back about 8 of them when my wife and I were there.
Here is a pic of one of the better ship book stores there. Of course it was several years ago.
 
The year before I had one of the books shipped to my wife's hotel. She and her mother had a great time.
 
Later Tim
 

I was able to get back to the pumps the last few days. I am afraid the deck took a little beating up in the process. In addition the pumps are a little too close at the mid-deck level - but they are not so far off the mark. As a result of moving them they are now away from the gun actions. Again, I sized the pumps based on the 6" diameter in the inner tubes. I think I am close on the scaling. Although the crew will not be utilized I placed a member near the pumps for perspective. I am much happier with this revision overall.
 

 
With crewman...

Many Thanks to all,
 
I used to be a carpenter before my current career and I absolutely miss making sawdust fly and encouraging timber to change its appearance into something else. The way I see it, tackling a build such as a cross section will lay the stepping stones for a complete model.
 

Dear friends,

thank you very much for your compliments and kind words, I appreciate them a lot.

Today I took a video to show you the tutorial, how I make the belaying pins. All is handmade, cause I have not any special tools.
The pins are solid enough, even if they are made of two parts.  
 

 
 
And what's new on RC.....
I have finished spiral staircase - it is made of paper and covered with foils to imitate wooden look.
 







 
Kind regards
Doris

Finally finished the planking while watching the Super Bowl this past Sunday night.  Now the really fun part begins.
 

 

 

I used 5 minute epoxy to glue the gudgeons and pintles in place.  Although a little messy, this usually gives me plenty of time to get the pieces lined up properly, and remove the excess adhesive.  I always start out with the lower pintle, which in this case, was attached to the stern post.

In order to properly line up the lower gudgeon, I used some miniature clamps, and a strip of L-shaped basswood, which kept the bottom of the rudder lined up with the bottom of the keel.  This worked really well.



I decided to find the proper location for the upper gudgeon before I painted the model and attached the transom frieze.  In the photo the gudgeon is only press-fitted in place.  I don't think it'll be a problem relocating it later on ... at least I hope not!
 
BobF

I wanted to have the lower gudgeon and pintle assembly in place before I painted the model.  I decided on a technique that I had never used before. I may have "re-invented the wheel,"  but for me it was something new.  After removing the temper and oxidation from a strip of brass that was supplied with the kit, I bent it into the desired shape.  After applying some flux to the piece, I placed a strip of "sacrificial" wood in position, so that it would act as a dam.  Small bits of Stay-Brite solder were then placed inside the area and heated with a micro torch.

When the Stay-Brite melted, it had a tendency to bead up, and not completely fill the area.  I took a flat tool, and compressed the hot solder, forcing it to fill the void.

I then filed away the residue, and shaped the piece.


For the pintles, I opted to epoxy the pin in place, rather than include it in the soldering process.  I just felt that it would be a lot easier to file down the piece to its correct shape if the pin was installed afterwards.

For me, the hardest part of this procedure was getting the brass strips shaped exactly the way I wanted them, so they would fit properly around the stern post and rudder.  The rest of the technique was pretty straight forward.
 
BobF

Looks good Robbyn.  We have to remember that the macro lens is not our friend.  If it looks good at normal viewing distance, it's good to go. 

Jay, I have decided to order boxwood from hobby mills for the Syren. I refuse to fight with this soft crappy basswood on that build as well!!! Great for first planking, but absolutely useless for anything else
 
Randy, you are the one who gave me the idea to "strip" it off several pages back lol, I just took it to mean strip the whole piece off
 
Eddie, I like to go to auctions, and have gotten some very good deals on many items...just NOT power tools it seems. I try to leave other half at home when I go, because he falls in that catagory you mentioned...it becomes a "got to win" and he usually ends up paying much more than the item is worth. Me I go in with a price in my head...if it goes over more than 5-10 what I had in mind, I just walk away. Personally I would prefer to buy my tools new (with a warranty), or gently used by someone I knew took care of them. However, if I could get a really great deal I would buy them, that way, if they are aboslute garbage I am not out much and can still afford to replace with a new one.

Hi everyone, so I'm a day late in posting photos, but here they are.  I'm still working on the board mounting system.  I should have some pics of that method sometime this weekend.
 








 

Thus, if it's via PM there's no hurt feelings, etc. since the seller just has to say "sold".  

There are two types of sellers....
 
1. Model Builders who just have some second hand tools, kits, etc and wish to sell them to other hobbyists.   You must be a member in good standing at MSW to post stuff for sale if you are in this category.....You must have 25 or posts on MSW as a member in good standing to post stuff for sale.
 
2. Commercial business....online stores  No advertising/self promotion is allowed on the forum.   If your business is interested in posting about your products or services, please contact admin (Chuck) about becoming a sponsor of this site.  As a sponsor you will be able to promote your products and services here in the the traders and dealers area as well as have a banner linked to your website along the right side of the forums main page.  Unless you are a sponsor of this site, All commercial business promotion is forbidden without permission from the administrators.
 
 
Those in category one......Please read.......If you wish to sell something here on MSW, please read and follow the rules given. We're not, by nature, a suspicious bunch. But over the years here and in other forums, people with something to sell have come in and offered various and sundry items. Not all have been honest. So please, follow these guidelines so that everyone has a pleasant experience.  You must have been a member that has 25 posts before you can post a topic in this forum.   
 
1) Post some pictures of the item.
2) Offer to give your phone number via PM.
3) Offer Paypal or some other secure transaction method.
4) Provide a price (given the different currencies, put the price in your currency).
5) Be sure to post your real name, location by city and country.
6) Do not post personal data such as addresses, emails, etc.  You will probably get spammed, etc. as this forum can be read by anyone including miscreants. 
 
Lastly, expect questions and do answer them.

112 guns is ready on 90%. 
More of them will be not seen - they willbe for two gun decks bellow. Later the guns who will be in the main deck, will take more modifiacitons
Used paint: Valeho Bronze - No: 70998
 

 
Assembling the working station:
 

Thanks Tim. It was a fun project. I got some more metal from Micro Mart for making some more pot's and pan's, but havn't got around to doing them yet. Been working on the capstan and a good shop clean up. Funny how not finding a tool because of the other stuff on top of  it will make let you know that its time to clean up the shop. Gary

Hello John,  Thanks for your kind words but that screwed-up lid is certainly not first class.  However, I have made a new one that is much better.  I pictured my dad standing there, shaking his head and muttering under his breath, domkop 
 
Hi Popeye, thanks for stopping by and your compliments.  A little difference doesn't fly with me, it was a terrible looking lid but thought to show it anyway.  Some folks may want to conceal their mistakes but we can't learn from that.  Pic below of the new lid 
 
Hi Freek,  thanks for liking it and yes, I know of course that the Heineken didn't last long with all those thirsty sailors  And they were not stored outside the pressure hull either, it was meant as a joke     
On the color scheme, your are correct, except for the builder's model we still have a photo of and I try to match that as close as I can.   From what I have heard and read she was painted grey during her war time patrols.
 
Hello Bob, nice to see you back again, welcome.  No, I have no graphics or CAD programs and not planning on buying any, at least not for the foreseeable future.  But what a generous offer, thanks - - - however, Remco already made me the decals for the con and the bow.  So I'm all set except for the draft numbers.  We don't know what the numbers are and what size.  They are also white, which is a difficult color to make for decals I understand.  I cannot make them out and neither can Remco with his superman vision.  
Those are the only things on this build that is wanting.  I have not yet contacted anyone in the Netherlands on the different Navy forums but plan to do so.  I don't expect much help though.
 
Cheers, 

INTRODUCTION
 
 
This is the build log for Hr. Ms. O 19, one of only two submarines in her class of the Koninklijke Marine (Royal Navy).  Please forgive me for making this introduction very personal because she was part of my life and therefore holds a very special interest for me.  My father, Opperschipper (Adjudant) Petrus W. van Warmerdam, was with her from about one year before her launch September 22, 1938 till his promotion to Opperschipper in January 1941.   
At the time he was placed on the build he had the rank of Schipper, with the added function of Quality Control and Assurance Inspector and liaison between the Navy and the ship builder Wilton-Fijenoord in Rotterdam, the Netherlands. 
 
His second tour of tropical duty started right after his marriage to my mother in October 7, 1931, and they started a family while in Surabaya, the former Dutch East Indies.  My sister and I were born there, November 14, 1932 and April 15, 1934.  When his second six-year tour of tropical duty ended in the end of 1937 he had to return to the Netherlands.  Of course his family, my mother, sister and I, followed shortly after on the passenger liner M. S. Christiaan Huygens of the Stoomvaart Maatschappij Nederland, Amsterdam. 
 
When we arrived in the Netherlands we first stayed in Den Helder, the Royal Navy Base, but after hearing about the new class of submarines being build he immediately requested to be placed on them.  Because of his expert technical knowledge of submarines the Royal Navy agreed and he and his family moved to Vlaardingen Ambacht, Narcisplein 3 to be exact, a small town near Schiedam, in March of 1938.  Sjors and Anja know this area quite well.
 
The shipyard was located in Schiedam, the Netherlands and the boat he was assigned to happened to be the furthest along of the two in that class, mine laying submarines. 
 
The original design concept for a mine lying submarine was completed in December, 1934 and assigned numbers O 17 and O 18. (Reference pictures can be found in the DRAWINGS section)   However, the design was altered to a more squarish form amidships for better loading and discharging of the mines by engineer G. de Rooy.  (Reference pictures can be found in the DRAWINGS section)  Rumors have it that it is based on the design of the Polish submarine Orzel but cannot be confirmed.  The Orzel was also a mine-laying sub but I believe that the mine tubes were carried inside the main hull and not on the side as the O 19 class subs.  
 
The O 19 and O 20 were also the first subs equipped with “getrimd diesel system ,” where the boat could run on diesel power while submerged to charge the batteries and for ventilation.   This is commonly known as “Snorts,” or “Snorkels.”    Navigation was done via the navigation periscope.
 
The KM (short for Royal Navy in Dutch) used to classify submarines for domestic waters with O and those for the colonies with K (K stands for “Koloniën ” which means colonies).  They were originally assigned the numbers K XIX and K XX, which was changed to O 19 and O 20 sometime during their fabrication.  All subsequence submarines received the O designation till the end of WW II.  After the war all subs received names instead of numbers.
 
The O 19 was launched September 22, 1938 with my father onboard of course   and officially commissioned on July 3, 1939, my mother, sister and I were present for that event.  I was standing on extreme left of the photo, hidden behind the bow flag, next to my mother.  The ensuing trial runs were successfully conducted near de Scandinavian coast and the fiords where proof diving could be done more successfully.  Although the boat was designed for a maximum depth of 100 meters these proof dives were limited to 60 meters.
 
Special tests were to be conducted on the voyage to the Netherland’s East Indies to measure geological differences in the Earth’s crust when sailing over the continuation of a mountain range underwater as well as wave action while submerged.  She and her crew arrived safely and without any technical difficulties at the Navy Base in Soerabaja (old Dutch spelling) in September 1939.
 
My mother, sister and I followed in December of 1939 on the passenger liner M. S. “Johan van Oldenbarnevelt,” of the Stoomvaart Maatschappy Nederland.   Both the Christiaan Huygens and JVO served as troop transports during WW II.
 
On January 1, 1941, my father was promoted to Opperschipper (Adjudant) and had to be transferred to a surface ship of the KM, which was the light cruiser Hr. Ms. Java.   The reason for the transfer was dat that rank was not maintained on submarines.  That was the second time in my short life that I saw my father shed a tear.  He loved the submarine service that particular boat and the crew.   As all submariners know these small crews on the subs become like a family.  He hated the Java, that “old rust bucket,” as he called it and he was subsequently killed in action on that ship during the “Battle of the Java Sea,” 5 minutes before midnight on February 27, 1942.  A long-range Japanese torpedo hit the Java in the rear port side just where his battle station is.  Fortunately he never knew what hit him when the powder room exploded and 20 meters of that part of the ship just evaporated.
I have photographs of the wrecked stern section that lies 70 meters down on the sea floor and now have closure and sort of a “grave marker.”
 
Our lives changed dramatically shortly afterward when the Japanese successfully invaded the Dutch controlled Indonesian islands and made us “guests of the Emperor” of Japan, i.e. prisoners of war, and placed us into concentration camps for the duration of the war.  Yes, even women, and children, all non military people were classified as combatants and came under military rule and in charge of the Kempeitai.
 
Fellow ship model builders, something you may not know but the Japanese High Command gave orders in the beginning of 1945 to exterminate all POWs in September of 1945.  As terrible as the two atom bombs that destroyed Hiroshima and Nagasaki are, it saved millions of lives and is the reason I am alive today with two beautiful daughters and a grandson.  My wife too was a “guest of the Emperor” in a concentration camp in Semarang, Java.  It is also giving me the great pleasure counting all of you as my friends.
 
The O 19 served with distinction during the entire war and I am sure that my father would be proud of her and the crew.
 
Well then, this model is in memory of my father and I dedicate it to him and the crew he loved.  The boat is still with us today, albeit as a wreck on Ladd Reef in the South China Sea (19.93 Lat, 174.57 Long).  Due to a navigational error she ran right smack in the middle of that reef at low tide.  And yes, the crew survived and was rescued by the USS sub “ Cod,” which is moored permanently in Cleveland, Ohio, as a museum.   There are some interesting films on “YouTube” of the rescue 
 
My model will be at a scale of 1:50 which translates to 1.6 meter and only shows the exterior of the boat, except for the side-launch torpedo tube assembly.  This unit is mounted outside the main pressure hull, between the hull and the deck structure forward of the deck gun location. 
It will be plank on bulkhead, using poplar wood for the majority of the build.  For the deck structure I may use 1/32 inch plywood over a frame of poplar, covered with epoxy resin.  The simulated hull plating will be 150 lb hot pressed watercolor paper over 1.5 mm poplar planking and epoxy resin.   Other materials will be brass rod, brass and copper wire, plastics, cardboard material and whatever comes to mind to achieve the desired effect.
I’ll be using red Titebond glue, Elmer’s Carpenter’s WoodGlue Max, which is an interior/exterior glue and waterproof.  Of course CA will also be used when appropriate.
 
I am still doing research on the original paint scheme at the time of the commissioning but that point is still in the future.
 
The drawing section is to follow.
 
Cheers, 

Very Interesting idea with the light and the hedgehog is cute.
 
Later Tim