42rocker

Hi guys,
 
Just a wee bit of update, I haven't done much wood work lately as I've been stuck on the computer learning new stuff that will hopefully help me in modifying my bulkheads. Druxey has been so very kind to share some techniques on interpreting admiralty plans as well as identifying and correcting distortions so I'm knee deep in reading right now (thank you so much, Druxey )
 
I also thought I'd try out going a bit more high-tech in doing my modifications so I've been learning the ropes on this CAD program called Inkscape. It's quite a learning curve but I think I'm getting the hang of it  My NMM draught has arrived, but unfortunately is too big to fit any scanners in our area for uploading unto CAD, thank goodness Christian has a smaller copy, which he has shared with me, thanks Christian
 
I have uploaded the three contemporary plans (as built plans, as designed/proposed plans and inboard profile plans for the Modified Mermaid Class) unto Inkscape and surprisingly, they all match pretty well.
 
As an example, here are the juxtaposed body plans of the as built and as designed plans showing just how close the lines are to each other:

 
Their profiles also match pretty closely with the main difference being in the bowsprit, foremast and quartergalleries positions:
 

 
I have also uploaded the MSW plan as I plan to tweak it to match the three plans then use it to cut my new centerboard (yup, I will be redoing all my centerboard and bulkheads and using there references:
 
 

 
That's it for now, will post more detailed pics once I get the hang of this CAD stuff.

Helloo  Guy!
 
Here´s  a good video with a pretty good faniliar music of the Great Museum of Madrid. I did enjoy the one in barcelona but this one is bigger an nicer.
 

 
HU HA!
 
 
You´re going to overtake me with your log!! really nice frames!
 
 
 
Best wishes and happy modelling!
 
 
 
 
 
Daniel.

Guy,
 
The scrap box has it's uses...   Sometimes you just need a scrap chunk of wood to make something or for use as a support or prop.  For the most part, mine is destined to either be kindling for the fireplace (chunks with glue) or used in the BBQ for smoking dinner (cherry and pear -- without any glue).

I just 'tried' to take a few pics of the quarterdeck/poop area, to show it before the new bulkheads arrive, but they didn't come out too well. If you wanted yo, you could leave out the bulkheads and have the deck 'cleared for action', as the deck (all the decks, in fact) extend right to the end of the stern - no hacking and slashing required...
 





 
Seems like I go out of the way to hide the fact that the hull is wood....

 
Gun port lids are as to scale as they can be. Too often I see way too thick lids in kits, usually at least 2mm thick! If you look at this picture I taken of the real thing, they are not that thick:

 
Also note the lack of sill on the lower inside edges of the gun port openings.

I have but the simple sherline mill and lathe. I think that it's a great starting point. To have all of the extra cnc etc is great but what are you going to do with it? If you are going to be making a lot of the same gun parts over and over then a cnc setup is great. Making several cannons can be done with a simple setup.
Sherline is one of the best out there for sure.
 
Later 42rocker

Robbyn
Stay safe.
And there is that bottle of mini wax pretreatment.
Remember to take the time to enjoy the build also. You and the other half "Glide Free".
 
Later 42rocker

The rigged guns areinstalled temporarily, I needed to make sure everything fits. They will be removed and replaced at the end of the project. To ensure the guns don't get loose, I have 0.5mm copper wire pins in two of the trucks on each gun that fit into holes drilled in the deck. These will be permanently attached with epoxy at the finish.
On an unrelated  note, my son was examining the ropewalk yesterday (he helped with the electrical side of it),  admiring the finished rope, and wanted to know where it was going. It is the first time he's seen the cross section (it's always been under a cloth dust cover), he was suitably impressed. Which is good, as he is the ultimate owner, though he doesn't know it yet. At the current rate of progress, it will be a Christmas present.
 

 
Regards,
Grant.

I appreciate the assesments and comments gents.
Bob, working with wood scared the heck outta me when I first started because I'd been working with copper and brass since my teens. Don't be defined by what you perceive are your (current) limitations. The Triton x section is a good place to start learning, just enough parts to get a feel for the work. I remember a comment by Harold Underhill that is a great encouragement ..... he believed that anyone is capable of building a good model if they take care with the work and be patient (paraphrased).
If anyone should decide to try this method, the following sequence may be helpful. The holes drilled in the outline allowed me to twist the saw blade around corners without breaking it, I learned this quite quickly. By planning the cuts, you can keep the bracket firmly clamped to your bench whilst cutting and filing. After the last cut, the bracket was placed in a small vice and the top filed down to the line. The top arm is still a couple of mm long (better a little too much than too little), this will be trimmed off later.
 

 
 
 
Grant.

3nd Construction stage
Main-Mast-Section
Project Planning;
 
Length of hull ;  499,0 mm
Hight of the keel to the top of the mainmast :1489,0  mm
Mainyard width including
Main-topmast studdingsail-boom :  729,0 mm
Complete rigging
 
Regards Karl
 
 
 
 
 
T e i l  26

Martin
Happy Birthday!!
 
Later 42rocker

Wayne, you know there is always room for you... since you brought the bartender as well, I am betting the others will be sure to make room for both of you.
 
Sam, thanks for explaining the scraping thing. I will give that some practice strokes on the scrap wood and see if I like the result better. I am still planking, have her about half way done now in between laundry, cleaning and gardening. Hope to finish tonight. Then I can get some pictures up for Sjors.
 
Tim, trust me, as I was writing all that I was thinking of everything you have been telling me!!!

Well took a plank with glued down paper to my wife's RBI Hawk Jigsaw last night and started a cutting. Ra Ra. Paper held down and cutting was slow but the test worked. Will cut more later. My son is down in town for a few more days and doing things with him more than working on cutting frame pieces. Family first. He is 33 years old and a great son. Proud to say my wife and I have been lucky enough to have had a great couple of kids. Daughter is only 30
To everyone take the time to be with them and support them as they grow. Time well spend. For our ship models they will be there when our children have returned to their homes.
 
Later 42rocker

Robbyn
What did you just say """but dang it, why buy a kit if you always have to switch out the wood, might as well just do scratch, then you only pay for stuff once."""
What was that you said?? LOL.. Now you know one of the reasons that I said to sit back and don't pile kits in the closet yet.
You will do well on this with the lighter sand paper or so I hope as I just started cutting out frame parts on my scratch build HMS Triton with the jigsaw and noted the same fuzz on the bottom edge and will have to deal with it without rounding the edge off. Did think of you and the minwax pre stain at that time.
 
Good Luck.
 
Later 42rocker

Al, still plenty of room here, and lots of extra chairs against the walls, help yourself
Mark, I tried the scraping...does even more damage along the edges, and on the top I don't know, I tried the lightest of touch, but still just seemed to tear the wood. I am using 320 grit paper and even that seems too rough. I had no idea that thin basswood like this would behave in such a way. Suppose I should have ordered boxwood or something...but dang it, why buy a kit if you always have to switch out the wood, might as well just do scratch, then you only pay for stuff once. Oh well, I will work with what I have and hope when she is planked I can get the smooth finish I want.
 
I wonder, what if I put a coat of poly on the strips first??? Has anyone tried that? I worry it would make it hard to edge bend, but maybe if I edge bend over size, then poly, and then sand and file the bevels on the edges?
Has anyone ever tried this?

Well took a plank with glued down paper to my wife's RBI Hawk Jigsaw last night and started a cutting. Ra Ra. Paper held down and cutting was slow but the test worked. Will cut more later. My son is down in town for a few more days and doing things with him more than working on cutting frame pieces. Family first. He is 33 years old and a great son. Proud to say my wife and I have been lucky enough to have had a great couple of kids. Daughter is only 30
To everyone take the time to be with them and support them as they grow. Time well spend. For our ship models they will be there when our children have returned to their homes.
 
Later 42rocker

Buck
Thank You (I think) for posting those links as I just might have to buy those books now. LOL. Anyone have any spare change??
 
Later 42rocker

While your eyes may be on several other kits. Thinking about them for a while might be a good thing. Do this Longboat build,  work on the Syren. Then you might have changed or learned things that make you favor doing something different. If you have bought several kits already then you might feel pressure or want something different. Enjoy these builds then work for there you don't need a closet full of models hanging over you, trust me I have that closet.
 
Later 42rocker

Dance of a new day. Happy Dance. Next thing you know you will be doing a cross section from scratch with us.
 
Later 42rocker

Good Luck on this new project.
 
Later Tim

Pete38
I'll think about it as I'm sitting here cooling down from spending the last hour and a half cutting the back area of the store grass. Did front half yesterday and back half today. Friday night is cutting two front yards mine and a renters. So after I get done with those I'll think about driving up to do it. Wait by then I'll need to start cutting over again in another area. Sorry Pete just does not seem like I'll be able to make it this summer. How about next Oct 10th thru the 13th I'll be in your area again at that time. Same place if you want to meet there.
 
Wood need to cut wood not grass wood. LOL
 
Later 42rocker

Sounds like someone is going for a walk on the darkside. I agree on the wood conditioner.
 
Later 42rocker

The first real harvesting of wood for a model was in 1975 when I was at the Ice-fields Campground At the Athabasca Glacier with my parents who were visiting  from the UK.
The firewood at the campground was about 16 inches long and had been roughly split into quarters It was extremely fine grained spruce, probably from close to treeline or a low moisture location am guessing that the rings were no more than a 1/128th inch apart. anyway I saved some for a model aircraft I was building at the time. I striped it into a small square section to bend for the tailplane. perimeter.
 
Yes getting the wood from nature is a big plus, in my books.
 
Michael

First looks Well Done.. Second my thoughts, don't short cut it. Start over again and use the good stuff, you might always be looking back saying I wish I had redone this. Also agree with Chuck, add a bulkhead or something don't leave those planks without support.
 
Later 42rocker

Thanks for the comment!

This seem to be a common theme... So if the need is to replace stock timber, then that leaves a lot of the money for the kit in somebodies pocket for not supplying the quality material in the first place. given the cost of some of these kits I am surprised.
 
Michael