Craigie65

Very nice work.
Mind you that water looks fresh, cannot have been at sea too long.
I am sure your tars will prefer rum 🧉

Excellent save!
That looks very striking, love it.

Main and Mizzen Mast Ratlines
I have now completed adding the ratlines to the right-hand side of the main and mizzen lower masts. I am reasonably happy with how they look. I have managed to avoid the dreaded hourglass effect and apart from the odd one there is not a great deal of ratline droop between the adjacent shrouds. I am still undecided weather to leave the ratlines beige or to dye them black using Indian ink.
 
I have it all to do again for the left hand side main and mizzen mast. My time in shipyard will be limited over the next few days it might be next week before I can start to make progress.
 
When taking the photo's below I used some scrap wood to try to show the ratlines.
 
Main Mast

Upper section main mast

Mid section main mast

Mizzen Mast
The lower section

Mizzen mast top section. I have highlighted a couple of ratlines which I may redo as they do not look good.

To complete this post see the following two photos

Excellent save!
That looks very striking, love it.

OK, this is the 16th kit and will be released in concert with Adder (both developed together), and it is a revisit, as I felt I wanted to do it a little more justice.
 
Here is the new design for HM armed cutter Sherbourne, 1763, designed by Sir Thomas Slade and using all of the reasearch I could lay my hands on to develop an accurate representation of this cute little cutter. This will be the last for my range of naval cutters, being content with a small (Sherbourne), medium (Trial) and large (Alert) cutter.
 
I have added 8x3 pounders, but in reality, she was armed with 6, and she is shown with 12 swivel cannon, but only allocated 8 for the real version - but some moan if they cannot fill gun port slots or populate all of the swivel posts...
 
As with Trial and Adder, all detail at main wale level and above is all pre cut with laser engraved plank lines and treenails. I decided not to paint the inner bulwarks red so the detail could be more easily seen.
 
Hull just needs a final spray varnish, then it's ready for the masts and rig, which I shall do together with Adder.
 
Oh, 64th scale, if anyone asks...and I haven't skimped on the bulkhead spacing....(17 bulkheads)
 
ETA - the skeletal hull was a pre prototype, and the first time I fitted the parts together from my initial designs.

Main Yard
The main yard is pinned and glued to the mast. The sling is made from 0.45mm served rope. An eye is seized in one end and a thimble seized off centre such that the eye sits on the starboard side of the mast. The difficulty is getting the correct length so that there is enough distance to tie the lanyard between the two thimbles on yard and sling.

I think that the sling could have been a little shorter in hindsight but I will leave it as it is.
 
The main yard shows a double parrel on the NMG model but Lees says that parrels were superseded by rope truss pendants about 1760. I decided to go with parrels. Tricky to fit making sure that the parrel ropes are not tide up with horses or other lines running down aft of the mast.

Now that they are fitted they look slightly over size and too bright.
 
I have stripped back some of the running rigging. I thought that using the line supplied in the kit would be OK but there is quite a contrast between that and the RoS line that I had used for e.g. the flag halliard. It was causing quite a clash to my eyes so I have decided to order more rope and strip out the kit lines.
 
I have also swapped out the parrel beads on the main and driver booms. The beads in the kit were black and shiny and didn’t look right so I have replaced them with some wooden beads from CMB.


Like the main yard, now that they are fitted, they look too bright and oversized. I may have to redo the booms or at least darken the trucks so that they are less obtrusive.
 
In the meantime, while waiting for ropes and mulling over parrels, I have begun another project – the NRG Half Hull which I will post  later today.
Thanks for looking in.
David
 
 

I continue with the decorations:

The following information is from "The History of English Sea Ordnance" by Adrian B. Caruana 

 

Additions for the last couple of days are the Main winch, Bowsprit bitts and  Main Mast bitts. I have been slowly assembling these over a few weeks now as other stages of the build needed to dry and so on.  These were all very straight forward to assemble and they fit together very well with only the char removal needed for sanding.  The minor changes I have made were to add a little details to simulate bolts, iron bands and referring to Petrejus, leaded bit cap and ends; though I think copper would have been more accurate?  Anyway my commander is poor, so he can't afford copper to cap his bitts!
 
The bolts were drilled with reference to the diagrams in Goodwin's AotS book "Alert" and filled simply with blacked stiff brush bristles.  Lead bitt ends were covered using the adhesive lead sheet I used for the hawse hole and scupper linings.
 
Iron bands were from the supplied black card.  The main winch drum is a resin part, so this took a little bit effort to make it look more like wood.  Various layer of browns and then some dry brush highlights and washes to pick out details.
 
These items aren't permanently fixed and have been put aside, as I think they will get in the way when adding the cannons.
 
Thanks you all for the continued support, likes and comments.

Mizzen Mast Shrouds
Our new granddaughter Betsy Beau Constance finally arrived early on Monday morning which this meant there was no time in the shipyard as my wife and I had to look after one of the other grandkids for a couple of days.
 
Returning to the shipyard this morning I started work on adding the shrouds to the mizzen mast, The first task was to add the burton pendants. There is one pendant per side required.

There are 3 shroud line pairs per side required for the lower mizzen mast and these were added to the mizzen mast. The position of each shroud pair was carefully adjusted as they were installed.

A jig is used to set the position of the deadeyes in the shrouds. With the jig in position a deadeye can be added to the first shroud. You will note there is a hole in the top of the jig which is there to aid the process.

The purpose of the hole in the jig is to help set the position for the start of the seizing, as can be seen int he next photo.

With the deadeyes added to the first shroud pair the lanyards were added. The jig seems to be working a treat as the shroud deadeyes look to be set to the same height.

Thanks @No Idea and @mugje! I tend to only see the things I wish I'd done better, so it is nice to have people getting me out of my own head.
 
Gave the hull one final sand to knock down a couple high spots and attached the first planks. The bulwarks have marks where the plank should sit, so placement should be hard to get too wrong. Did some minor bending, but didn't require much since the bulwarks are relatively vertical compared to the hull below. First tried PVA, but noticed a couple spots where they weren’t sitting flat, so I pulled them off and used CA gel instead. Worked my way from the bow to the stern a few inches at a time. The CA gel gave the perfect amount of time to properly position, but then only needing to it hold for a few seconds.
 


 
Still debating if I should install the stem and keel now in order to properly place the garboard strake. The instructions wait until after planking, but I foresee either ending up with a gap or needing to cut material away to fit the keel. Leaning towards attaching now. My plan is to paint below the waterline, so I can always patch and fill, but I’d rather do it as cleanly as possible. Also considering using realistic plank lengths ala what @TJMhas done with his Flirt.
 
Continued to chip away at deck fittings as well. Decided it would be fun to add some details to the capstan. Based on a bit of reading, it sounds like drop pawls wouldn’t have been used until 1800 or so, but I like the look even if not strictly accurate.
 







 
Steps should be pretty self explanatory based on the photos. I used styrene rod to create the pawls and teeth, black masking tape for the metal band, and pins for the bolts. Then dry brushed the metal parts to pull out the details. The kit’s capstan is 7 sided, which resulted in an uneven placement of the pawls. Ended up adding 3, alternating every other side then with a gap of 2. In retrospect I should have just added the bolts and pawls independently of the sides of the capstan to space them evenly, but I’m happy enough with this.
 
Added puddening to one of my anchors as a trial run. Used a bit of CA to hold the start, then diluted PVA as I went along to help it hold, finishing with a bit more CA at the end. Wasn’t nearly as frustrating as I was afraid of. When it did start to unwind sometimes, the PVA did a good job of keeping it mostly in place.
 


 
I should probably stop procrastinating and get on with planking!

Main Mast Shrouds
Our new granddaughter has decided she is quite happy where she is no rush to come out of the womb to meet her parents or brothers, etc. This means I have been able to spend a bit more time in the shipyard so I was able to started to add the deadeyes to the main mast shrouds.
 
I was using a jig to set the deadeyes to the same height but as I added the lanyards I was not happy with the alignment. It may not be that evident when looking at the photo below but the deadeye on the left hand side (arrowed) is much lower than the other two deadeyes. The middle one is also a bit to high.

I ended up removing all the deadeyes (and seizing thread) and starting again, refining my working method, so I could (hopefully) get a more consistent result. The refined method is detailed below as so far is yielding much better results.
 
Step 1 - Position the shroud in the jig and apply a known amount of tension
With the jig in place the shroud was positioned. Two pins were added to the bottom of the jig to aid the alignment. The line is held in place using reverse action tweezers. This should ensure the same amount of tension is applied to the shroud in readiness for the seizing.

Step 2 - Ensure the seizing starts at the same point for each shroud
Next a length of seizing thread was feed through the shroud line, whilst the line was held under tension. This should mean the seizing is set to the same height for each shroud.

Step 3 - Create the loop, ready for the deadeye
With the seizing thread in position the shroud could be held in the quad hands so a loop could be formed.

Step 4 - Add the seizing
With the shroud held in the quad hands it was a simple job to apply the seizing to the loop.

Step 5 - Add the deadeye
After a touch of ca glue was added to the seizing the excess seizing thread was trimmed. Next a deadeye was added and the loop could be closed up by pulling the free end of the shroud.

Step 6 - Check the alignment
The final task was to add the lanyards and to then check the overall alignment. So far the refined method seems to be working much better.

 

Once the lanyards were added it was possible to look at the alignment. It is looking much better.

Hello all, hope your weekends are going well so far.  Thank you for your kind comments @dunnock @Thukydides @Dave_E @iMustBeCrazy @DaveBaxt @Blue Ensign @GrandpaPhil and the likes everyone!
 
No further forward with my restoration of the stern following my botched repair attempts after dropping it, so focusing my attention to other details whilst I formulate a plan.
 
As I am following NMM drawing ZAZ6418 I am moving the companionway forward and adding a skylight for the Commanding Officer's cabin in the original kit position for the companionway.
 
I've scratch built a new companionway access using the 0.8mm sheet from the kit as my wood and the kit parts 103-107 as my templates, but increasing the lengths of the sides to match the larger hatch.  I copied the kits plank markings and cut these into the 0.8mm sheet to add some interest.  Also added framing to the companionway doors and top hatch so they also had some extra interest and didn't look like what they are - offcuts! 😁  Hinges are small lengths of wire and used blacked eyelets for ladder access ropes; I'm saving parts PE02 for the bulwark ladderway ropes I will add later.  The handles didn't have to be too complex as I used them as attachment points and glued them to the side so the doors had another point of contact and being very "Elf & Safety" conscious for my crew I added hand ropes. 😉
 
Next up I will try and scratch build a little skylight, thanks for looking in everyone and the continued interest/support.

Hello, an update for progress over the last week or so.
 
The following pictures are all of small assemblies and little projects I have been doing whilst wrangling the stern into something I'm happy with; this is still not right, but that will form an update for another day.
 
So on with the bits and bobs I have done.  After spending some time looking at the NMM plans (specifically ZAZ6418 & ZAZ6422) I have decided to go ahead and add the additional fore hatch shown in those plans.  ZAZ6418 is of the series ZAZ6418-ZAZ6424 plans, but has a date that puts it contemporary with Trial actually having been built; if I'm reading the text properly it says Draft of Cutter "built" 9th September 1790, the other plans are variously described of plans of "proposed vessel with sliding keels" or plans "draught for building by contract" if anything.  So on that flimsy basis only, I'm going by this plan...  just flagging that up so I can be shot down for my variations! 
 
Got the sliding keels ready and also added little deck reinforcement pieces to match those shown on the plans and sections; fashioned from the leftover 0.8mm wood.
 
Gratings, as I was making an additional one I had to go with some from Caldercraft so they all look alike, Chris's look crisper, but to compensate I did try to construct the Head ledges and side combings as best I could to match the details supplied in various posts here on MSW.  The other minor detail I have gone for is to have the anchor cables enter via the main hatch.  The centreline fore hatch is in front of the galley and the additional one I have added goes to the compartment that leads to the Boatswain's, Gunner's & Carpenter's store rooms.  On ZAZ6422 the plan shows what look like at least five transverse bulkheads that have no doors or openings in them to allow crew/stores movement from stem to stern; perhaps a strengthening addition for the sliding keels, or additional compartments as the sliding keels were a bit "leaky" 😱 - don't know pure speculation on my part.
 
The Mainmast and Bowsprit bitts are not fixed permanently yet.
 
Thanks for all the likes and comments, next time I might be brave enough to share what I've done to the stern...🤫 - not all of it planned...

It just occurred to me that a picture with my hand in it would give a much better perspective of size.
 

 
Now you know why I never made it as a " Hand Model " ..

Yip, I will be watching out for this one being put on sale.  Plus should be small enough to hide from the admiral 🤞

Yip, I will be watching out for this one being put on sale.  Plus should be small enough to hide from the admiral 🤞

It is strange, in that they all seem to sell well, but do so in phases. For example, one week it will be all Trial Cutters, another week Speedy's, then Sphinx, then a run on Indy's etc.

Thanks for the kind words, @BobG.
 
Finished up the first layer of planking. Very glad I spent the time practicing proper techniques here before the second layer where it really counts. Funny how some planks only took a couple bends to get perfect, and others I’d adjust a half dozen times and still feel like I’m forcing them into place.
 


 
Was installing the very last plank, trying to pressure fit it into the gap, and heard an unpleasant sound...
 

 
Uh oh. I wasn’t properly supporting it while applying too much pressure and managed to crack the stern board and separate it from the frames behind. Luckily it glued back together easily.
 

 
Happy with how the planking is going. Seeing some slight issues with the bow, which could end up needing filling, but will sand it smooth before heading in that direction.
 



 
The manual isn’t very specific about how much to thin the first layer of planking around the deadwood or stern where it meets the stern post, so my plan is to test fit with the keel and stern post throughout sanding to make sure the next layer of planks will transition smoothly into them. Also debating attaching the keel and stem before the second planking to make sure the garboard plank is positioned correctly. Perhaps temporarily attaching the keel while placing that one course would be a good way to go. Curious if others have wisdom to share?
 
Might wait for some nice weather so I can sand the hull outside. I’ve been working on this in my home office, and would like to avoid too much dust getting everywhere. Unfortunately it is looking like highs in the 20s (around 0° to negative 6° for you non Americans) all next week, so perhaps I will go back to working on fittings for a few days.

I'm definitely going to get one. But although I have the Trial Cutter, an HMS Alert and a Lady Nelson lined up as options for my next project, I'm thinking of getting the Version 2023 Speedy as that would fit quite nicely for the next step up on the ladder. Hmmmm, tough decisions to make...

No, that would have been a much later namesake, with all of the 1797 Acute Class being decommissioned well before 1812.
Adder was part of a class that was second generation for this specialised type of vessel (The first being Conquest Class in 1794). Later classes like Archer and Confounder are less interesting, as they are nothing more than smaller standard brig hulls and armed with only carronades. Almost a pre curser to the Cherokee Class of brigs, as they were, at that time, expected to operate a lot further from home waters, as the threat of an invasion of Britain receded.

I think she looks excellent. If I didn’t already have a new version of Speedy waiting to be built, I’d choose Adder for my next build after Ranger. 
 
I hope she sells well for you Chris, I find the more unusual boats really interesting and appealing. 

No idea how well this will sell....
 
I guess that there will be a good market for Adder and that the kit will sell quite well, just because the ship is different and special compared to other kits on the market, as @Ajohnson already stated. At first glance she looks "similar" to Alert or Trial. But at a closer look I noted a few other different things: e.g. the deck looks rather straight, tidy and more clearly arranged, and the two big guns on the bow give her a certain individual appearance. I don't find her ugly, but rather interesting and attractive in her own right. Is Victory a beautiful ship? She's impressive and iconic to us but not a real "beauty" like the schooner America or the Blue Nose and her sisters (just my humble opinion...).
Chris' statement "This was meant to be a nice cheap and simple kit..." should not be underestimated. His love or inclination to extensive detail doesn't necessarily mean that a simple VM kit is easily and quickly built 😉 (I'm thinking of the brass parts like cleats etc. ) ...  This was ment as a purely postive side note😊😊
She will sell alright!.👍
Best
Uwe
 

...forgot to mention the rudder arrangement. This adds of course significantly to the individual appearance of the ship! Very interesting (have I said that yet ?😉)!
Uwe

Yip, I will be watching out for this one being put on sale.  Plus should be small enough to hide from the admiral 🤞