Kelp

Mark,

I second Thunder’s comments.  If I had this kit, I would strip off the planking to the bulkhead framework and re-plank.

I was in a similar situation a while back when I was given a partially built kit of the Flying Cloud.  The planking was similar to yours.  I got great satisfaction in saving the model by starting over with the planking.  
 

Since you have the materials and fittings for the kit, I would recommend continuing with this 

Victory.  As you can see on the model box, this is a nice looking model when finished.  Plus, you’ll have the satisfaction of resurrecting it from the scrap heap.

Don

Thanks  for your responses.

Grandpa Phil,  the Sergal model does look good for a start.  I don’t care for the copper sheets they provide for the cabin details.  I think this is an instance where scratch building the cabins in wood would give a more realistic result.

Blackdog & Thunder, I agree, the Woody Joe kit looks really good.  I saw it for sale on EBay once, but it was located in Japan and I didn’t have any idea what customs fees would cost.

I had a Constructo USCG Eagle years ago, which required a lot of scratch built modifications.

Don

Lee,

You’re doing a very nice job on this Eagle model.  
 

Don

James,   Thanks for moving my topic to the correct area.  I’m not sure how I ended up posting on the New Members section.

Hello,

I’m thinking of purchasing a wooden Cutty Sark kit and was wondering which kit to get.  I know there  are kits by Billing Boats, Artesania Latina, and Sergal.  Any preferences or experiences building these kits?  Likes and dislikes about certain things in the kits?

Thanks,

Don

Hi Robert,

Thank you very much for your reply.  I also have this kit, but it will be a few years until I’m able to work on it, due to a backlog of kits.  In the meantime, I’m learning some very helpful techniques from you and enjoy seeing your progress.

Thanks and all the best with your build,

Don

Robert,  your model looks fantastic!  I especially like the gold painting on the quarter galleries and stern.  The wood deck also looks great and was worth doing.  
 

I have a couple of questions:  

What type of glue did you use to attach the decking to the plastic?  What size paintbrush did you use to paint the gold?

Looking forward to seeing your next build update.

Don

It’s great to see a Mamoli Constitution being built here!  I also have this kit, but it is stashed away until I finish some current work.  I look forward to seeing your progress as you continue with this great ship.
 

One thing I will probably change is the bow area, to make it look more like the Model Shipways version, which I think looks closer to how the ship looks now.  I will have to do a little studying to figure out how to do this conversion.

Your model is looking great!

Don

Hi Marek,

The model is looking fantastic!  I really like the close up photos of the rigging connections.  These photos show your first class work in detail and are also very helpful to modelers who are building the San Felipe or a similar ship.

I look forward to your continuation in October.

Don

Your Cutty Sark model is looking fantastic!  I’ll be looking forward to your updates on this build.

Don

The planking looks great!  This will turn into a very nice model.  
 

Don

Marek,

A fantastic looking build.  You are a true master of the ship modeling craft. 
 

Don

Looking forward to your build of the Titanic!

Nicely done!

Nice work on the planking!

Very nice!

David,

I agree with David G.  The 1/350 Minicraft Titanic is in the size range you are looking for and is a good quality kit.  You have a couple of options with this kit; the base kit, the Deluxe version, which includes photo etched railings, or, if you want more detail besides the railings, go with the Tom’s Modelworks Titanic photoetch set.

Don

Are you thinking of building a wood or a plastic kit?

I have heard of rubbing alcohol also being used to clean the plastic parts.  Any comments on the use of alcohol vs. dish soap?

Evan,  

What a fantastic idea to show some of the framing!  Your model is the only one I have seen which has included framing.  Very creative, and it looks terrific!

Roger,

Thanks for pointing out to me the plating detail which shows the packing pieces.  This clarified my question on how this was built.

Don (kelp)

Quoting Titanic the Ship Magnificent, “ As stated previously, the bottom frames were joggled in clinker fashion.  This was done to eliminate the use of the tapered packing pieces ordinarily associated with this type of plating”.

I would now like to find a photo of a hull bottom with “packing pieces” so we can compare the two methods.

Evan,

I found this drawing of the lower hull plating in the Titanic the Ship Magnificent book,  Figure 4-10.

Don

There is a 1:570 Revell Titanic kit that is still fairly easy to find.  There is also a 1:1200 scale Revell Queen Mary 2 and also a 1:570 scale kit of the Queen Mary (the older 3 funnel Queen Mary).

Hi Evan,

Thanks for taking time to show me how the fiber optic cable would look in the porthole.  I am leaning towards this method.  The Midwest Model Shop’s fiber optic portholes looked nice when he turned on the LEDs.  
 

Don

Evan,

The hawse hole project is coming along nicely!

 I’m planning ahead for the porthole windows and will go with either the fiber optics as you have mentioned and as the Midwest Model Shop used. My other option would be to place acetate to the inside of the hull across the porthole locations. A possible problem with this method is the thickness of the hull plastic.  The acetate maybe too far behind the surface of the hull to look realistic.  I can’t say for sure, since I haven’t drilled out the portholes yet.  Can you post a photo showing a sample of what the fiber optic porthole looks like?

Nice progress on your model!

Don