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pirozzi

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  1. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from maddog33 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    I finished cutting out the gun ports for the lower gun deck. Using plan sheet #8, I was able to locate the ports fairly accurately.
    Next up was to place the false gun blocks. Since I already had ports cut out, centering the blocks was easy, and I had only 2 dimensions to deal with. The first was to measure the height of the gun barrels from the deck, and the other to determine how far back from the deck edge to place the blocks so the barrels protruded the correct distance. In the Euro notes, Peter had provided these dimensions, but I decided to make my own calculations using the plans and the gun barrels. It just so happens that Peter's figures were almost exactly what I came up with, so I used his, The holes in the blocks were drilled 13.4mm from the bottom and the blocks were located 11.7mm inward from the outer edge of the deck. There were 4 ports on each side that will remain closed, so no blocks were placed there. 
    Next up will be placing the middle gun deck.
     
    Vince P.





  2. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from Mirabell61 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    I finished cutting out the gun ports for the lower gun deck. Using plan sheet #8, I was able to locate the ports fairly accurately.
    Next up was to place the false gun blocks. Since I already had ports cut out, centering the blocks was easy, and I had only 2 dimensions to deal with. The first was to measure the height of the gun barrels from the deck, and the other to determine how far back from the deck edge to place the blocks so the barrels protruded the correct distance. In the Euro notes, Peter had provided these dimensions, but I decided to make my own calculations using the plans and the gun barrels. It just so happens that Peter's figures were almost exactly what I came up with, so I used his, The holes in the blocks were drilled 13.4mm from the bottom and the blocks were located 11.7mm inward from the outer edge of the deck. There were 4 ports on each side that will remain closed, so no blocks were placed there. 
    Next up will be placing the middle gun deck.
     
    Vince P.





  3. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from maddog33 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Working on locating and cutting out the gunports for the lower gun deck.
     
    First I marked the center of each port on the hull using plan sheet #8 measurements. Then I placed a small nail at each center so I could look down the side of the hull to see if they all were in algnment. A couple had to be adjusted slightly.
     
    Second I created a small jig that measures 14mm square, which is the gunport dimensions, with a belaying pin for a handle and a 2mm wood dowel for a pilot. I drilled a 2mm hole in the center of each port location.
     
    Third I placed the jig in each center hole and traced the sides on the hull to mark the square cutout.
     
    Fourth I drilled more holes in the marked squares to aid in making the cutouts.
     
    Lastly as each cutout was cut and squared off, I placed the jig into the hole until it fit snuggly. The result is a nice square hole of the correct dimension.
     
    Vince P.








  4. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from DORIS in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Working on locating and cutting out the gunports for the lower gun deck.
     
    First I marked the center of each port on the hull using plan sheet #8 measurements. Then I placed a small nail at each center so I could look down the side of the hull to see if they all were in algnment. A couple had to be adjusted slightly.
     
    Second I created a small jig that measures 14mm square, which is the gunport dimensions, with a belaying pin for a handle and a 2mm wood dowel for a pilot. I drilled a 2mm hole in the center of each port location.
     
    Third I placed the jig in each center hole and traced the sides on the hull to mark the square cutout.
     
    Fourth I drilled more holes in the marked squares to aid in making the cutouts.
     
    Lastly as each cutout was cut and squared off, I placed the jig into the hole until it fit snuggly. The result is a nice square hole of the correct dimension.
     
    Vince P.








  5. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from freewheelinguy in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Working on locating and cutting out the gunports for the lower gun deck.
     
    First I marked the center of each port on the hull using plan sheet #8 measurements. Then I placed a small nail at each center so I could look down the side of the hull to see if they all were in algnment. A couple had to be adjusted slightly.
     
    Second I created a small jig that measures 14mm square, which is the gunport dimensions, with a belaying pin for a handle and a 2mm wood dowel for a pilot. I drilled a 2mm hole in the center of each port location.
     
    Third I placed the jig in each center hole and traced the sides on the hull to mark the square cutout.
     
    Fourth I drilled more holes in the marked squares to aid in making the cutouts.
     
    Lastly as each cutout was cut and squared off, I placed the jig into the hole until it fit snuggly. The result is a nice square hole of the correct dimension.
     
    Vince P.








  6. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from riverboat in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Working on locating and cutting out the gunports for the lower gun deck.
     
    First I marked the center of each port on the hull using plan sheet #8 measurements. Then I placed a small nail at each center so I could look down the side of the hull to see if they all were in algnment. A couple had to be adjusted slightly.
     
    Second I created a small jig that measures 14mm square, which is the gunport dimensions, with a belaying pin for a handle and a 2mm wood dowel for a pilot. I drilled a 2mm hole in the center of each port location.
     
    Third I placed the jig in each center hole and traced the sides on the hull to mark the square cutout.
     
    Fourth I drilled more holes in the marked squares to aid in making the cutouts.
     
    Lastly as each cutout was cut and squared off, I placed the jig into the hole until it fit snuggly. The result is a nice square hole of the correct dimension.
     
    Vince P.








  7. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from marktiedens in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Working on locating and cutting out the gunports for the lower gun deck.
     
    First I marked the center of each port on the hull using plan sheet #8 measurements. Then I placed a small nail at each center so I could look down the side of the hull to see if they all were in algnment. A couple had to be adjusted slightly.
     
    Second I created a small jig that measures 14mm square, which is the gunport dimensions, with a belaying pin for a handle and a 2mm wood dowel for a pilot. I drilled a 2mm hole in the center of each port location.
     
    Third I placed the jig in each center hole and traced the sides on the hull to mark the square cutout.
     
    Fourth I drilled more holes in the marked squares to aid in making the cutouts.
     
    Lastly as each cutout was cut and squared off, I placed the jig into the hole until it fit snuggly. The result is a nice square hole of the correct dimension.
     
    Vince P.








  8. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from Brian the extraordinaire in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Working on locating and cutting out the gunports for the lower gun deck.
     
    First I marked the center of each port on the hull using plan sheet #8 measurements. Then I placed a small nail at each center so I could look down the side of the hull to see if they all were in algnment. A couple had to be adjusted slightly.
     
    Second I created a small jig that measures 14mm square, which is the gunport dimensions, with a belaying pin for a handle and a 2mm wood dowel for a pilot. I drilled a 2mm hole in the center of each port location.
     
    Third I placed the jig in each center hole and traced the sides on the hull to mark the square cutout.
     
    Fourth I drilled more holes in the marked squares to aid in making the cutouts.
     
    Lastly as each cutout was cut and squared off, I placed the jig into the hole until it fit snuggly. The result is a nice square hole of the correct dimension.
     
    Vince P.








  9. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from alan baker in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Hi Brian,
    The lower deck was secured before I started the planking. I am now cutting out the gunports for the lower deck. The false cannon blocks are already made and painted and will be mounted as soon as the all of the ports have been cut out. There are photos coming shortly.
     
    Vince P.
  10. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from maddog33 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    I have finished the first planking from the main deck down to the lower gun deck. It was a long process and required very many adjustments to the bulkheads and blow block. Next up is to locate the gunports for the 2 lower gun decks. You can see I have marked the planks with vertical lines for the centers of the bulkheads, and dotted lines for the top line of each deck. Using these marks and plan sheet #8, I can plot the exact location of each gun port. Then comes the fun part of drawing them on the hull and cutting them out.  I got spoiled by other kits such as the SOS which came with templates that already located all of the gun ports. This will definetely be much more of a challenge.
     
    Vince P.




  11. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    I have finished the first planking from the main deck down to the lower gun deck. It was a long process and required very many adjustments to the bulkheads and blow block. Next up is to locate the gunports for the 2 lower gun decks. You can see I have marked the planks with vertical lines for the centers of the bulkheads, and dotted lines for the top line of each deck. Using these marks and plan sheet #8, I can plot the exact location of each gun port. Then comes the fun part of drawing them on the hull and cutting them out.  I got spoiled by other kits such as the SOS which came with templates that already located all of the gun ports. This will definetely be much more of a challenge.
     
    Vince P.




  12. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from mtaylor in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    I have finished the first planking from the main deck down to the lower gun deck. It was a long process and required very many adjustments to the bulkheads and blow block. Next up is to locate the gunports for the 2 lower gun decks. You can see I have marked the planks with vertical lines for the centers of the bulkheads, and dotted lines for the top line of each deck. Using these marks and plan sheet #8, I can plot the exact location of each gun port. Then comes the fun part of drawing them on the hull and cutting them out.  I got spoiled by other kits such as the SOS which came with templates that already located all of the gun ports. This will definetely be much more of a challenge.
     
    Vince P.




  13. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from realworkingsailor in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    I have finished the first planking from the main deck down to the lower gun deck. It was a long process and required very many adjustments to the bulkheads and blow block. Next up is to locate the gunports for the 2 lower gun decks. You can see I have marked the planks with vertical lines for the centers of the bulkheads, and dotted lines for the top line of each deck. Using these marks and plan sheet #8, I can plot the exact location of each gun port. Then comes the fun part of drawing them on the hull and cutting them out.  I got spoiled by other kits such as the SOS which came with templates that already located all of the gun ports. This will definetely be much more of a challenge.
     
    Vince P.




  14. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from maddog33 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Starting the first layer of planking. I will plank from the main deck down to the lower gun deck. All of these planks do not need tapering, and only bending with an iron for the sharp contour of the bow. The planks are in limewood at 6mm x 1.5mm. Once these areas are done, the gunport locations and the placing of the other full decks can be addressed.
     
    Vince P.




  15. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from Anja in Half Moon by Anja - Corel - Wood - 1:50 - (d'Halve Maen)   
    Hi Anja,
    Looking forward to your log and enjoying the progress you make on building her.
     
    Vince P.
  16. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from WackoWolf in Cutting gunports into bulkheads   
    I agree with Brian. I am building the Royal William which has 3 gun decks. On each deck there are at least 2 or 3 ports that wind up in the middle of a bulkhead. Just closing those ports makes it simple. Also, it adds to the appearance of the ship, as ports were often closed here and there for one reason or another. If a port just overlaps a bulkhead to one side, the bulkhead can be trimmed and painted black and the false gun barrel placed alongside.
     
    Vince P.
  17. Like
    pirozzi reacted to mtaylor in Sovereign of the Seas by Denis R - FINISHED - Mantua - 1:78 scale   
    Hi Dennis,
     
    If the fabric stiffener doesn't work, (I'm guessing it's starch?)  There's always hair spray, clear matte lacquer, or what Popeye suggested.  I use the glue and water mix with success.  Also, take an empty beer or soda can (aluminium/aluminum) and cut it open and shape to the way you want to flag to flutter.  Lay the flag on the can and coat with the stiffener that works best.  When dry, the flag will come off in the same shape as the can.
  18. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from Murphys77 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Hi Everyone,
    Please do not use this build log to chit-chat among yourselves. If you have a comment or question of me regarding by build of the Royal William, or anything else you would like to communicate to me, then that is OK. This build log was created only to illustrate and share the construction of this ship by me.
     
    Thanks for your consideration,
    Vince P.
  19. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from hollowneck in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Hi Everyone,
    Please do not use this build log to chit-chat among yourselves. If you have a comment or question of me regarding by build of the Royal William, or anything else you would like to communicate to me, then that is OK. This build log was created only to illustrate and share the construction of this ship by me.
     
    Thanks for your consideration,
    Vince P.
  20. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Hi Everyone,
    Please do not use this build log to chit-chat among yourselves. If you have a comment or question of me regarding by build of the Royal William, or anything else you would like to communicate to me, then that is OK. This build log was created only to illustrate and share the construction of this ship by me.
     
    Thanks for your consideration,
    Vince P.
  21. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from maddog33 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Two more steps in the hull construction.
     
    1. The mizzen mast bottom rests on the lower gun deck. A stepping block needs to be fabricated and secured to the lower gun deck before things get covered up. With all 3 lower decks either secured or dry fitted in place, the mizzen mast is inserted through the decks and placed vertically and at the correct cant. A wood block with an 8mm hole is then located on the gun deck and glued in place. It is also painted black to keep it hidden.
     
    2. The solid bow blocks are carved down to the contoured shape. The photo shows before and after. Make sure to do this in a ventilated area. The amount of saw dust created was enormous. I am still coughing.
     
    Vince P.



  22. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from maddog33 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    OK, so I made a boo-boo.    The sternpost is 2mm narrower than the thickness of the false keel. I made a note to taper the stern end of the false keel so it would be 2mm narrower than the sternpost. This way the first planking would terminate slightly below the surface of the sternpost with a little shaving of the plank ends.
    I got side tracked thinking of so many other things to do that I forgot to do it before securing the sternpost.
    I fixed it by tapering the false keel to the thickness of the sternpost and then cutting a rabbett 1mm deep along the edge of the false keel. The first planking will now terminate just below the surface of the sternpost as it is supposed to. The second layer of planking will form a smooth joint with the sternpost with a little tapering.
    Thanks to Peter from Euromodel for pointing out the issue before I got too far along.
    That makes 2 mistakes so far that I had to dig my way out of.  I hope there will be no more.
     
    Vince P.


  23. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Two more steps in the hull construction.
     
    1. The mizzen mast bottom rests on the lower gun deck. A stepping block needs to be fabricated and secured to the lower gun deck before things get covered up. With all 3 lower decks either secured or dry fitted in place, the mizzen mast is inserted through the decks and placed vertically and at the correct cant. A wood block with an 8mm hole is then located on the gun deck and glued in place. It is also painted black to keep it hidden.
     
    2. The solid bow blocks are carved down to the contoured shape. The photo shows before and after. Make sure to do this in a ventilated area. The amount of saw dust created was enormous. I am still coughing.
     
    Vince P.



  24. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    OK, so I made a boo-boo.    The sternpost is 2mm narrower than the thickness of the false keel. I made a note to taper the stern end of the false keel so it would be 2mm narrower than the sternpost. This way the first planking would terminate slightly below the surface of the sternpost with a little shaving of the plank ends.
    I got side tracked thinking of so many other things to do that I forgot to do it before securing the sternpost.
    I fixed it by tapering the false keel to the thickness of the sternpost and then cutting a rabbett 1mm deep along the edge of the false keel. The first planking will now terminate just below the surface of the sternpost as it is supposed to. The second layer of planking will form a smooth joint with the sternpost with a little tapering.
    Thanks to Peter from Euromodel for pointing out the issue before I got too far along.
    That makes 2 mistakes so far that I had to dig my way out of.  I hope there will be no more.
     
    Vince P.


  25. Like
    pirozzi got a reaction from riverboat in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Two more steps in the hull construction.
     
    1. The mizzen mast bottom rests on the lower gun deck. A stepping block needs to be fabricated and secured to the lower gun deck before things get covered up. With all 3 lower decks either secured or dry fitted in place, the mizzen mast is inserted through the decks and placed vertically and at the correct cant. A wood block with an 8mm hole is then located on the gun deck and glued in place. It is also painted black to keep it hidden.
     
    2. The solid bow blocks are carved down to the contoured shape. The photo shows before and after. Make sure to do this in a ventilated area. The amount of saw dust created was enormous. I am still coughing.
     
    Vince P.



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