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samueljr

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  1. samueljr
    Stunt You Long Boat is coming along great. Super job on the planking. Always remember (with stain) it's easier to put more on than to take it off............... Sam
  2. samueljr
    Grant Option #2 (the yards WERE busy) also there will be enough going on "out there" by time you're done........... By the way I've been meaning to ask when your done with your VIC can you build mine 'cause it aint going to look as good as yours...........LOL! Sam
  3. samueljr
    Bob, Great job on everything! What size cannon balls came with your kit? I know that the size I used on the proto-type are no longer available. I don't know what they've been replaced by. As far as the cabin panels short of having some type of directive or builder's indent/note on appearance I'd be comfortable with paneled for both on both sides. It's at least plausible that the Captain's cabin was paneled. I thought about fitting out the rear of the boat but the detail took the kit in a direction that neither Expo or me wanted it to go. Are you going to go all out as Doris has with her ROYAL CAROLINE? I'm certain you've seen the manifests of materials and stores in the Essex papers for the Great cabin. Sam
  4. samueljr
    Bob, Sharp all the way. Love the term "mellow" to describe the cooper after dull coat - perfect. How are you finding the balance of the hull on just the posts? Sam
  5. samueljr
    Correction update............ I've assembled the redrawn set of bulk heads (including the former, rabbit strip, stem, keel and stern post) A couple of "things" The increase in slot width allowed the bulk heads to be inserted much easier I was able to release all the parts listed above and the 22 bulk heads from their sheets (bass or plywood) with nothing more than an x-acto knife and a #11 blade. There was no damage of any part. The assembly is drying up I will start tomorrow to cross reference dimensions against the proto-type. Once satisfied with those then I'll lay up battens to assess fairness of the bulk heads. When doing that I'll also bevel the stern and bow as required and install bow blocks That should take me through the end of the week or so. Just an FYI - The plywood used remains at a heavier weight/thickness than the 3/16" used on the proto-type and represented in the drawings. The plywood supplied in the kit moving forward is at the discretion of Expo. The amendments I am making through the kit are a one time only exercise. Sam
  6. samueljr
    Thanks for the likes and support.........
  7. samueljr
    Thanks Augie, I see the proto-type and of course what beautiful work Bob is doing and I know what ESSEX can and should be - frustrates the hell out of me to have to do all this. Sam
  8. samueljr
    Bill Yes they will be available from Expo. I dont know what process or method they will be using to distribute the corrections. I do know that they are holding off on shipping any new orders until the process plays out. In speaking with Marc we're shooting for no later than April (God willing) to have everything re-worked. From there then the rigging kit. I don't know if the rig will be through Expo and or released from me (or maybe Syren)?.............. ESSEX has become to me akin to one of the "Labors of Hercules" from ancient mythology - As punishment from the Gods Hercules would push a huge boulder up a mountain and just as he reached the summit the boulder would slip and roll down hill and he'd have to start all over again.................LOL! Sam Sam
  9. samueljr
    Bob, Are you (did you) seal the parts at all? Was the solution 100% or was it cut? Whenever I would blacked it would just seem to rub off regardless of solution strength, time or prep............. Thanks Bob
  10. samueljr
    dremel
  11. samueljr
    Well the new bulk head assembly finally arrived this morning. As I've said it's a total re-work of the build. Here's what I can say right now; Allowing for the heavier thickness of the plywood the slots on the bulkheads were increased The tabs on all pieces were reduced and in most cases limited to one per piece Additional vertical arm width was added to the first and last few bulk heads (#'s 1,2,3 & 20,21,22) to facilitate better/easier beveling The vertical arms of the Quarter Deck bulk heads was extended to better allow for the loss of material from the laser cut I'll assemble the set this week and check for fairness of frames and line Report back soon Sam
  12. samueljr
    Bob, Ring bolts look sharp. Can you elaborate on the process you used with the Birchwood Casey Brass Black? I've never had much success with blackening. Sam
  13. samueljr
    Wayne, I know you'll do just fine. I have confidence in you and there are a world (literally) of great people out here willing to help Sam
  14. samueljr
    Wayne, Just a word of caution. Be careful using all those references. Pick one and stick with it. There is a lot less consistency between them then the casual observer would imagine. Even Portia is not consistent between her framed model and the AOS book. There was an article about 20 years ago in the Nautical research Journal that discussed this topic. What it basically illustrated was that Portia, Baker, (it included Stevens who did the old Shipways' plans) and I think the Aero kit all claimed to "copy" Hacket's draught but all differed from it (some significantly) and none were the same with each other. If you use all the sources together you'll on occasion reconcile a dimension or detail but you'll end up creating an ESSEX that never existed. Pick one source, pick one time period and go with that. When I was researching/developing ESSEX for Expo we had several conversations regarding possibly acquiring the Aero plans as a start. To my best memory they were considered accurate to Baker's work (I think). The article from the NRG was lost in a flooded basement. I have the NRG discs and will try to find it for you. Also there is a very brief caveat at the opening of the Essex Papers that says to the effect that the reader should be careful of using the contained information for modeling purposes. I never see that referenced though........ Sam
  15. samueljr
    Augie Great minds think alike! I wiped mine down as well. The key (I think) is not to saturate the plates with IPA. Too much can degrade the adhesive. And before sealing (if that's next, let them air dry for a day (or two) Sam
  16. samueljr
    Bob, Looks great! Just think if those were individual plates?! I was hallucinating (lol) by time I finished the hundreds of pieces I put on............... Sam
  17. samueljr
    Grant, you're welcome and believe me it's very well deserved. Like you bought the Mamoli VIC a long time ago and somehow I've never even started it. I was initially waiting to I felt my skills would produce the finished product I desired. But every time I was ready to start "something else" came up to build. So as of this morning I have a 20+/- year old Mamoli VIC (new in box) sitting on the shelf. More recently I've thought about selling it off and trading over to the Caldercraft version but then I think (and see your build) and ask myself (other than size) what difference will the finished product look like? I've got all the usual reference books etc so I'm not lacking there. I'm going to switch out the line and the blocks. I'll either extremely bash and or scratch build a majority of the fittings so how am I ahead by swapping one for the other? Maybe a little more historical accuarcy in the stern galleries? Better guns? My original point in the previous post is that in the hands of an experienced builder (one who is going to bash/replace/upgrade) a number of aspects I dont know that one kit is that much different than the other. If a builder just wants to build to the box top photo than what's inside will have an influence. The builder still has to be upto the task skill wise - if not, then kit quality isn't the real influence on finished product. Sam
  18. samueljr
    Don't think you can unquestionably annoint a kit better then others of the same subject matter (for the most part). Granted there will some kits that are so lacking that they are lesser "raw product". Once you start comparing the legitamate kits it's all the same - it comes down to the builder. Give a less skilled or novice builder Caldercraft's VICTORY (for example) do you think it would look better than say Grant's Mamoli VICTORY - No. If you're just trying to determine which kit offers better fittings, wood, instructions, etc. you can do that. That wont gaurentee the end product - ultimately the builder will.
  19. samueljr
    You can try wax the MS line but that may only be be partially successful. What's the composition of Corel's? if it's nylon as well your just trading one for the other. You may want to try replacing it with an afetr market line. I've used Syren Model's line for two projects (so far) and it is as good as it gets for scale rope. Check their web site (they're a sponsor here)
  20. samueljr
    Thanks Bob, I'm going to practice a bit and then give it a try on my latest project. Bob, I'm certain you know this but I'll throw it out here for anyone else reading that may not - once last "thought" on the use of clear /dull coat on the copper. One coat is really all that should be used I've found. The liquid (either spray or brush on) is actually sitting on top of the copper tape. There's little (or no) absorption so more than one coat is just building up the product on top of itself and can lead to a very muddy appearence that isn't very natural looking. Sam
  21. samueljr
    Bob, I forgot to ask, what did you use to scribe in the plate division lines? Also how did you keep spacing/plate size consistent? With the tape being thin (although I found it pretty resilient) did you tear any? It's producing a very nice finish and I am considering using it on my current build. Also it beats cutting the 1,000 or so individual plates I stuck on ESSEX!.................. Sam
  22. samueljr
    Augie, The copper continued to patina a bit naturally but not as much as I think it would if left untreated. Also i think it is more even in color. The key is still to avoid prolonged hand contact (oils). That will darken it regardless from my experience. Sam
  23. samueljr
    Augie The dull coat worked great (as far as I'm concerned) here's a couple of pics of ESSEX after being dulled.............. compare then to the non dull shots of Bob's Sam
  24. samueljr
    Bob Looks great! As with the proto-type and to be honest ALL BUILDS out here a historically correct nail pattern is virtually impossible to replicate correctly. It's the appearance of a pattern on the copper that we're striving for. To knock the sheen down I used a single coat of spray on Testor's Dull Coat. Let me know when the package gets to you Sam
  25. samueljr
    Well I'm Done! Here are the final pics of this delightful little project............ I thought about listing all the changes/substitutions/additions/subtractions I made but that was turning out to be a rather long list. So, if anyone has any questions about a particular aspect feel free to ask. I will say just a couple of things; First everyone should build something out of their usual subject matter on occasion. It's refreshing. It's also a chance just to relax without worry of screwing up months (if not years) of work and expense. Sometimes we get too hung up on Frigates and scarph joints and nail holes and wood types and guns and every other large and (extremely) small details found out here that we just forget to have fun. As a lot of you know I'm going through a (trying) time with a Frigate that will go unnamed and I found this side project to be just the diversion needed to remind just how much fun I have building for building sake. She's not perfect (far from it) but I'm just as proud of her as any of my builds that have a ribbon or medal to their credit. Also it gave me the chance to correspond with some new and great people on MSW that I generally wouldn't be in contact with for any number of reasons. There are some really super folks out here. Last but not least THANKS to Chuck for a great idea and kit design. Sam

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