egkb

Nigel,
 
We moderators put our heads together and agree... off to the scratch build area with this.  

Hi All, I have finished the windlass except for a few deck 'pins' to hold it on.  When scaled up to real size the very top of the bell is just over 1.6 metres tall.. i think its all about right..
 
 
Tom i didnt get a chance to read that script on decking, it baffled me at first glance, but maybe you could PM it to me for a look,, about to get ready for planking deck this week.. Thanks

Whilst im at deck fixtures I felt like getting the cannons built up so i cane check port placements. ,, The kit suplied brass rod for axles but it was a sloppy fit in wheels and i think these small canons may have had timber axles anyhow... i used blackbean and worked it down to 2mm rods... I used bamboo wedges to chock wheels in 1mm holes and they can rotate nicely but not sloppy... I made my own mounts for eyelets also... and a jig to make shackles or clasps to hold canons on mount..
Ready get back to hull work almost,, Ollie

Shrouds on the main and mizzen topmasts are now complete. Back to my favourite task.... ratlines....!
 
After that I can start work on the backstays for the top masts.
 
 
 
 

Really terrific work on those windows Bob.  Now don't forget to label your display case 'Rattle OK' so you don't panic if you move her around the house 12 years down the road!!!!

I thought I had better shake myself out of my laziness and do something   
The physio has me doing exercises and the like that do drain me a bit  :mellow: 
But I did manage to do the filling I wanted
Obviously it is not easy to see but here is what it looks like after being smoothed off with the wax filler
 

 
Very little sanding should be required
You bring it to as perfect as you can by smoothing with your finger and scraping with a sharp knife
Tomorrow I hope to give it a few coats of paint   

I've done the stern windows and the inner stern planking around the windows. Since I wanted to have something that would look right on both the inside and outside and since the kit provided 10 laser cut frames for the 5 windows, I decided to do something a little different. I decided to build up window "sandwiches", consisting of 2 frames with a piece of clear plastic between them (I'm sure that I've seen this done somewhere on MSW). With some thickness sanding, this created a perfect fit for the depth of the stern frames.
 
As I had indicated early in this log, the width of the stern frames was excessive and this required some careful filing to open the spaces between the frames to get the window frames to fit. The window frames were painted white after they were sanded to fit. I then glued in the outside window frames, placed the the clear plastic behind them and then glued in the inside frames. This was all going well until somehow I managed to have an inside frame jump out of my grasp and become a permanent resident of the ship's hold. As a result, I had to make a replacement from strip wood. Thankfully, it's on the side that will be covered by deck planking and not visible.
 
After the windows were installed, I chose to do the planking around them on the inside. This was done with boxwood, finished with Wipe-on Poly. I've started on the Great Cabin cabinetry. That and the exterior planking around the windows will be the next update.
 
Bob
 
 

Dang!... Now that is something that never crossed my mind.. slightly embarrassing too as I was around ship/boat plans for most of my 'first' career must have gotten myself 'blinkered' with the build !
 
Thanks Tony  (again)
 
Eamonn
 
Thanks Kester, I think I shall have to 'Just get on with it'
 
E

Oh Dear G.d  , What have I started!
 
E

Hi Guys,
 
Thanks every body for your very kind comments and remarks and all those who pressed the like button, it's very much appreciated.
 
I have a little update to show so will be posting some pics in a moment.
 
What have I done so far, Mizzen mast shrouds were served and fitted, Catherpins made up and fitted, Mizzen main stay served and fitted, I used Arthurs method of making the mouse and it works fine, Mizzen Futtock shrouds made up and fitted and finally Ratlines completed on the Port side. 
 
The Catherpins look a little thick and I guess they are, I used 0.25 brass wire, served with 0.25 thread, attached it to the Futtock staves then fitted them to the shrouds, this made the process of fitting the Catherpins so much easier, I tend to look for as much as possible to do off the ship, that way there is less chance of doing damage which I'm prone to do.
 
I'm a little disappointed with the shroud servings, they are not as level as I would have liked above the futtock staves, the only saving grace is that it is a bit crowded in that area and difficult to see clearly.
 
The mouse was made using Arthurs method, anybody wanting to know what that is please look at HMS Vanguard by AEW, page 19 post 280, it really is a good method and so simple to do. I experienced the problems with serving in that the thread kept sliding down the mouse, this was cured by a drop of PVA.
 
The result of all this was that the Mizzen mast is now in it's correct position, tight and vertical with the correct backward angle of 2 degrees. I was a bit worried that the mast would lean over to port as was happening before fitting the ropes.
 
Pictures, not that many and not the best quality but you will get the idea of where I am. ( must change my camera ).
 
Portside deadeyes

 
Mizzen stay deadeyes

 
Mizzen mouse

 
Mizzen tops with the jungle of ropes

 
Beneath the mizzen tops showing the futtock shrouds and ratlines

 
Catherpins

 
Starboard deadeyes from the stern

 
Starboard deadeyes again

 
So there we are guys, your right up to date with where I am. 
 
Your comments will be well received regarding the thickness of the Catherpins, I wont be changing what's done but will make alterations to the Main and Fore masts if you think they are too thick.
 
Stay Safe and Warm
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 

Ollie,
 
In well run ships it was common for the bell to be polished to within an inch of its life.  Can I suggest just some clear gloss finish to protect the shine?
 
John

Thanks Eamonn
Tom, that makes sense to me
Yes I have been using flat black enamel, and will probably stay with that,. But will do some research anyhow,,Cheers

Looks grand to me Ollie, not sure if a ships bell would be black so that finish seems ok.
 
Eamonn
 
BTW you must be cornering the market in Valve Adaptors at this stage.. Keep up the great work!

I can relate to that John, still have nightmares about Calculus.. I particularly remember one Applied Maths lecture in Plymouth, we were all sat there in our suits when the Lecturer announces solemnly to us 'Tomorrow gentlemen we shall have differentiation' just as a clap of thunder & flash of lightening  went off, all very Count from Sesame Street !! we struggled not to laugh 

Looks grand to me Ollie, not sure if a ships bell would be black so that finish seems ok.
 
Eamonn
 
BTW you must be cornering the market in Valve Adaptors at this stage.. Keep up the great work!

Well thanks heaps again guys. I'm getting keen to start that deck planking in the next week..  Not sure of what pattern to do, any ideas are welcome.. Just want to be organised and plan ahead..
 
SO I put on my metal working costume and set about making the bell, I was keen..    About 4.5 hours and a heap of enjoyment..
 
After the last adapter adaption going so well I took another football valve and this one was brass, so nice to work with.. The rest kind of explains itself, lots of filing and fiddling..   In the last pic i have tried misting it with black and then satin clear coated, not great, might retry something else... 
 
Should I invest in this metal blacken stuff? Can i make my own home concoction perhaps, hmmm I will look into it... Enjoy the pics and thanks for looking. Ollie

Andy,
 
That unloading gear is starting to look very impressive; but what do you mean, 'trial and error'?  Don't you remember all that arithmetic you had to do for your second mate's ticket?
 
John

I cut out my scuppers very carefully and I managed not to collapse anything. I feel this is a turning point for a beginner on this project because this is were I think the biggest disaster would have taken place. I know I'm a long way from being done but I'm feeling pretty good at this point.

Carrying on with construction of the unloading gear.
 
The next major structure is the "A" frame. This consists of 2 massive girders that join at the top to support the swivel for the boom headblock.  Although this looks like a simple structure, it is remarkably comlex, given the angles involved. A lot of trial and error. There is still a lot more structure to be added to the two side girders as well as the framing in between them. Eventually they will be supported about 1/3rd of the way down from the top by a vertical girder(s) attaching to the loop belt casing.
 
One of the key things to be aware of is that the alignment of the various components; the swivel for the headblock, the gooseneck hopper just under the loop belt, and the boom pivot all have to be in line. There is still many adjustments to be made.
 
And Popeye... you would have to be stark raving made to want to attempt to model the innards of a self unloading system. if you think an admiralty style model is complex.... you have no idea the work that would be involved
 
I'm being sent out again to take a ship down the river. I leave tonight and won't be back again until Saturday sometime. The shipyard will undergo another short hiatus in the interim.
 
Andy

Hi Keith
Thank you very much indeed,and thank you for all your likes I have a little joke with myself that there is less than twelve square inches of plywood keeping this in the 'kit build' section   .I can categorically say nothing else of the partwork will be used and I no longer subscribe,just seemed a waist of money as I am not using any of the parts.
The black boxwood and the red wood I used for the railings come from 'originalmarquetry.com' in the UK.I also get the square boxwood and various other bits from them.The downside to the coloured woods is that they only come in 0.7mm thickness.The square uncoloured boxwood comes in very handy ranging in size from 3.4mm square right down to 0.81mm!! in 1metre lengths.
Kind Regards Nigel

Thanks John, it would have been a LOT more difficult without the jig   .
 
All the timberheads are finished and installed. The pic below shows how much difference there was in the longitudinal angles, remember that the ones near the waist were straight :
 

 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks so much all of you..!!!  You are keeping me very enthusiastic about my build..
 
I have spent another 3 hours on windlass. It has been a challenge, but all in all, not that hard.. I just need to work out the ratchet and release mechanism now.. I like the one on the 'Harriet' and you may notice that i basically copied my windlass by eye.. I like the little bell on top of the post, i would like to know what it is for and if it was common.. I gather it has something to do with the anchor procedures..
 
Also any reccomendations on the deck planking would be great... Should this cutter's deck have a margin plank around it?
 
Happy crafting all.

Nice.. this is another thing that I'd never heard of.  Thanks for the 'How To..' (was about to ask until I read down)
 
 
Eamonn

I have sent Joe a PM.I will see what he says.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi
I was extremely happy to find this log, thank you so much for sharing. I built the 1:80 Amati Endeavour a year ago, it was my first build. I had no clue how to plank the keel in a nice way, now I know how it should be done . Have to admit that I smiled when I read about you using super-glue at the stern, been there done that. 
 
I have just ordered the 1:64 1893 Britannia. Cornwall model boats Ltd advised me to go for the Mamoli one over the Mantua one. Would be interesting to know why you thought Mamoli kits are bad.
 
Back to Endeavour, any idea how you're going to paint the ultra-thin line just below the deck (don't know what that line is called in English)?
 
Cheers