egkb

Erecting cant frames
 

 

 

got my deck planking and waterway just about done.

Some nails have square pointy ends too, so tapping one into the desired area will give a square hole.. just don't tap them in too far
 
Eamonn

Some nails have square pointy ends too, so tapping one into the desired area will give a square hole.. just don't tap them in too far
 
Eamonn

Ollie,
 
Go to the National Maritime Museum website (the Pommy NMM); go to 'collections' and search on 'windlass'.  You'll find several photos of windlass models including a few early ones - all the ones you want are on the first couple of pages.
 
As for the square holes, use a square drill, of course!   I drill a small hole and then square the hole out with the tip of a very small square escapement file I have.  In case of a lack of square files small enough, try filing down a small length of steel to a square point; drill the hole; then ease the hole out to square by pushing the squared steel spike into it.  Try on a piece of scrap of the same type of wood first just to check that it works OK.
 
John

Now I am just working on some smaller items for deck etc..   I am putting together anchor winch..  I tried fitting the ratchet wheels and they were not quite round, made the mistake of trying to squeeze one with pliers and shattered it into four pieces.. Oops.. Not made of brass... They are a bit rough on the casting so repaired and sanded and repainted.. Must be made of cast alloy of some sort...
 
Now I am looking at instructions and I am pretty sure they have this built wrong in their diagram..  The handles should be attached to main shaft that holds anchor rope.. not the brass rod above that has lugs for ratchets... Turning that would not wind rope.. I assume the brass rod should have a handle to release anchor when needed.. Thoughts? Thanks all... Ollie

I agree with that. The handels should be on the actual spindle. In that picture the rope closest to us winds around from the underneath of the winch drum, while the other rope winds over the top of the drum. Just thinking, would winding that winch lower one anchor and raise the other?

Totally agree with all the previous posters.. when you have done the grey upper hull the red will 'sit back' so fear not also the illusion at the moment is that there is a lot of it (red paint) but when you have it all nice and straight this will also make the red 'sit back'.. if you follow me
 
Eamonn

Sjors, Mike, Jim - as always your comments mean a lot coming from you guys, and always good advice!
 
Frustrating I've found that I'm two cleats short (and Cornwall Model Boats are out of stock!) so can't complete the mizzen mast just yet so started to attach blocks to the other masts.  Lots of pictures below on approach to the under blocks under the tops, Mobbsie was very kind to send through a lot of info that he had accumulated, found this modified method worked well for me.  Only had 4 to do, but thought it good practice to do it authentically as possible for practice even though I could probably have lived with blocks attached to eyebolts.
 
High tech jig assembled (i.e. 2 pins in spare wood about 9mm apart)  Block placed on one pin and knot tied at top of block to secure it in place.  Loose ends then tied over the top of other pin....

 
...knot tied on other side of pin to make a loop.  At this point applied some GS Hypo glue to the knots and the 'loop' to secure it.

 
After glue had dried, trimmed loose ends and served the line in between the loop and the block...

 
...which resulted in the finished item.

 
In place with wire pegs inserted into loops to keep them in place.  1.3mm holes were drilled and the hoops pulled through with thin thread.  Took a bit of teasing.

 

Hi Christian,
I finally putted a second layer (with the brush) and I mixed the paint with 2 drops of white.
After a good mixing, you don't have very much time because it dries very quickly.
But now, I am happy with the result.
I send a photography when it is completely dry.
Pierre

More angles

Thanks Tom, John ans S Coleman.  You guys are too kind
 
The cutting away of planks and epoxying of keel in place went really well.. It has made sure the mermaid is really strong..
 
I grouped multiple cutting discs on the dremel until i got to required thickness for my scratch keel..
 
Cut it out ever so carefully and dry fitted many times..
 
I feel i have really turned a corner now and i'm slowing down and thinking about the next few stages..  I wont be tree-nailing deck as i think it is too small a scale and im thinking about the planking and gun ports etc..
 
Also thinking about scuppers and if i should  do them or not..  probably just on the painted side...
 
Thanks for looking and commenting all. Ollie

More work on the forward house. It seems every time I turn around, there some other little bit to be added on. One of those perilous things about knowing how actual ships are built.... it can make things rather tedious...
 
So I've finished the eyebrow over the forward pilot house windows. I've also added monkey's island (yes the IS what the top of the wheel house is called.... stop laughing..... seriously..... stop it!). It is removable for now, so that after painting, I can still access the inside to I can add all the nice details.
 
I then carried on the deck framing under the Texas deck. A few more bits to add around the sides and the forward corners.
 
And finally, just for good measure, in case anyone has forgotten how big this beast of a model ship really is....
 
Andy
 

Yesterday seemed to be one of those days when nothing goes right.
 
So instead of trying to finish the after cabin skylight and bell I decided to paint the box that goes just fore of the after cabin trunk. It will receive a mahogany top and two vent stacks and will stand on two legs.
 

 
I then stained the main mast and painted the main boom. The main boom needs a few more cleats and eyelets added before I can seal it up with wipe-on poly.
 

 
Every time I set another piece of the masts I'm amazed at how much sail area she has. There is a ring tail boom that extends out another 3" aft that I still need to make.
 
On several areas the masts call for 0.008" wires about 3/8" long. I assume they're for belaying or for routing lines. This wire is not included in the kit. I don't know if I can get brass that thin and I'm worried that if I use steel it will rust. Yet another thing I need to figure out before I can mark any one piece of the ship as finished.

That looks a nice ship mobbsie
Quite a vivid blue on the deck
 
I think I will paint my deck 
Maybe the hull colour
Maybe slightly different
 
The hull paint arrived and I am very pleased with the colour
 

 
However it really really shows up that I need some very delicate filling if I want it to look good
I have run out of decent filler so there will be a bit of a wait again
I may just spray the very bottom of the hull to see what the red paint I have got looks like
May have a go at that tomorrow

Bingo.. that looks a lot like the Dove Grey my dad used to use.. go for it Mick, I doubt you'll get any argument from us lot
 
Eamonn

Progress on the windows, name of ship and last ornament on the stern. In next step i´m gonna do gallery

This build is deffo an exercise in precision... I think you would need a 'bit-of-a-lie-down' if you saw my work station Albert (think 'explosion in a timber yard' and you'd not be too far off)
Wonderful to watch the pinnacle of this hobby of ours!
 
Eamonn
aka 'let me just clear a space so you can actually see the Bounty.. ah there it is'

Carrying on....
 
Spent a lot of time yesterday cutting out windows.... a tedious task, pretty much on par with tying ratlines... but with the added risk of turning fingers (or the styrene sheet) to hamburger. A word of advice.... always use a fresh sharp blade, it won't hang up as much in the plastic, decreasing the ammount of force needed to make the cuts. And always make a cut in several light passes, don't try and cut through on the first pass.....
 
So... the windows... yes... an important feature of the pilot house, whose sides I have now completed. I made most of them from 0.030" sheet, but the forward curved part I opted to use 0.020" sheet. A little thinner to help make the curve a little easier. A few more finishing touches and it will be ready to paint. I won't be putting the top on just yet. I have to finish the interior after painting... and add window glazing. For now it will have to sit as a hollow shell.
 
Also got some 0.040" round stock to cap off the Texas Deck (Yes, that's what it's really called) bulwark.
 
I know right now it seems I'm repetitively posting various shades of the colour white, but believe me, a ship is emerging slowly from all of that. When the time comes to paint, it will make a startling difference.
 
Andy

Okay, Spent another 5 hours, Finished first planking,,    And sanded and fixed any dips in shape of hull with heavy duty filler.. Would rather build up than sand off too much... Amazing how strong the hull feels now its closed up..
 
I have cut up some "Blackbean" (Tropical rainforest hard-wood)     http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castanospermum
 
....To make my false keel and rudder etc..   Very happy with how it is progressing and it feels really nice running your hand along the hull..  Thank you all for your support so far.. 
 
A question while i am here, Do most of you make your rudder to be able to move? It doesn't say much in kit, but does say to drill hole through deck for tiller?  Regards Ollie

Mobbsie, great and tremendous progress as usual....
If you continue like that your Aggie will be sailing for March!
Some pictures (and plans?) of your serving machine should be very useful for a lot of friends!
(and probably for me too, but in a couple of years).
Pierre

Bulkheads all fit as they should now. Today I started laying out the keel pieces on the Wenge wood replacement. After trying to mark out the patterns with assorted white pencils, I decided to cut typing paper to board size, coated the paper using a Elmer's glue stick. I then surface sanded the board barely wiping it clean. Finally, I applied the paper to the wood and ready to trace kit supplied pieces on to it.
Below are pictures of the steps.
I work the next couple of days so I'll probably cut these out on my new scroll saw, (Thank to my Admiral!) Friday night
 
Warm Regards,
 
Bill
 

 

 

 
 

Ratlines continuing on the Fore Top Mast. Also fitted the staves and catharpins. Starting to get really fiddly down at these small cramped areas. More ratlines tomorrow.....
 

Tonight was a good night, I was able to get a couple more hours work in on the Atlantic hull. She's finally beginning to take shape and look like a schooner!
 
Cheers,
Tim
 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Guys,
 
My turn to add an update on progress made so far.
 
Well I ripped out all of the eyebolts from under the platforms and followed the advice from Grant on how they should be done, he kindly sent me some information from one of his practicums which illustrated it perfectly.
 
The big question was "How in _ells teeth am I going to do that", but it wasn't as bad as I first thought. So it was with some trepidation that I drilled my first hole in the Main Platform followed by another 11. The results you will see.
 
The railings and netting was fitted next.
 
I have since fitted the Mizzen Platform to the mast but the Main and Fore Mast Platforms are only dry fitted.
 
Next came the Burton Pendants, I made hard eyes for these out of 4mm dowel, I drilled out the centres with a 1.8mm bit and filed them down to the size required. I then had to serve rope for the Mizzen Pendants, Then it happened, my super duper server fell apart, the gearing got all jammed up and kept jamming, so I had to pull it apart and virtually start all over again. I now have a server that's got more holes in it than a colander, still it works which is the main thing.
 
With the rope served I attached the eyes and served the ends, it is now fitted to the mast.
 
So that's it, not a lot really, but unfortunately life has a habit of getting in the way of building, plus the fact that I have had a bit of builders block, at least that's behind me now.
 
Some pics.
 
Top of the Main Platform showing the retaining pegs.

 
The completed Platforms

 
The underside of the Platforms

 
The Burton Pendants on the Mizzen Platform

 
 
The served rope seized around the mast

 
The 3 masts with platforms

 

 
So there we have it, next step is the Mizzen shrouds.
 
If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie