Wintergreen

Håkan is right.  Start simple and small and build your skills from there.  There's no such thing as a "big no-no".... just a learning curve.

Hello Seglaren! 
I would suggest that you actually buy and build one of the kits out there depicting these kind of vessels. One is Billing Boats FD 10 Yawl at scale 1:50. It gives a reasonable sized boat. A couple of others are the new, and higher quality kits from Vanguard Models, Erycina a ketch and Nisha a cutter (single mast). Both at scale 1:64 which produces smaller boats, fewer details and easier to place on you favourite shelf.
Don't bite off more than you can chew and give it a go!

I hear you wefalck. 🙂 
Instead of 1:30 I could go with 1:60 or the more common 1:64 or why not 1:96?
However, I'm not really into these miniature jobs (yet). With greater skill down the line - maybe.

Aha! Planning ahead I understand. Well done, and an impressive set of thunder there!

1.1.                   Preparing for lofting frames
To address the issue of “Lines to outside of planking” work started over.
The body plan was traced yet again, this time with correct width or breadth. To move all station lines to inside of planking the offset function was used. It creates a line offset by the distance you type in, taking into account curves and all. There is however one disadvantage with the offset, or any of the other “line copy” functions. It creates a line with a myriad of nodes, or control point. Se picture below with the traced line and then the line created with the offset function.

 
The effect of this is that nothing can be done with this line. It is not feasible trying to adjust it or so but the solution is quite simple, just trace a new line on top of the offset line and remove the offset created line.
 

 
Now we have a line that can be tampered with without too much headache. Rinse and repeat and all station lines have been moved 65 mm inwards in a nick of time.
Next step will be a new half breadth plan where water lines start from the inner rabbet line and follow the inside of planking. It is straight forward. Remember to hit CTRL+S to save your work every now and then. TurboCad dies on me once in a while and recently I lost last some half hours’ worth of work.
Be sure to use the curve tool that goes through its control points, not the other one. That will leave you with a host of problems later.
Once the new half breadth plan is done, fairing comes next. Even though the Bezier tool creates nice curvy lines it can’t for example foresee the shape of a counter stern on a boat. Next picture highlights some areas that needs direct attention. On top of the plan is the created water lines.

 
Close to the centerline it is obvious that water lines 7½ and up needs addressing. But look further up also, especially 6½ and 8 have unsightly bumps and dents. If left there is always the possibility to fair the wood frames once installed. But that will create an erroneous shape on the transom in that it will be pointy. Around the centerline the transom should be smooth and round, not sharp with an edge.
After some fairing and adjusting the lines plan is finished.
 

 
Next up will be lofting all frames. A quite repetitive task but better get used to it since there will be more of that down the line.
 
As I've mentioned before, anyone interested in a more detailed instruction regarding lofting in CAD should read the work of  @wrkempson found here: https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/DraftingShipPlansInCAD.pdf 
It is really good and instructive.
 
Thanks for your interest in this and please keep on asking and discussing. Much appreciated!
 

Aha! Planning ahead I understand. Well done, and an impressive set of thunder there!

Aha! Planning ahead I understand. Well done, and an impressive set of thunder there!

Aha! Planning ahead I understand. Well done, and an impressive set of thunder there!

Good morning Håkan,
the cannons, also those for the gun deck, are ready. The beams for the upper gun deck are til now not all permanently installed.
With the lightning  and taking pictures I have no problems. I have LED lightning already in my shop. The only disadvantage with LED's is, that they did't have UV-A radiation. So the paint did't harden really good. 
 

 

 
 

Framing complete and the hull is stained to imitate the likely colour of the beast.

 

 

 

 
I hope you approve of the effect
Cheers
Dick

Ahh, those painted frieses...
 
Well, I have a question Siggi. What about armament? It looks like you are only planning for guns on weather/2nd deck? I mean, first gundeck is a bit hard to do any work on now, right?
 
About lightning, I remember that Gaetan B had some posts about lightning a good while ago. He compared flourescent lights with led and halogen if I remember correctly. Pros and cons and did reasoning around them.
 
Keep it up!

Ahh, those painted frieses...
 
Well, I have a question Siggi. What about armament? It looks like you are only planning for guns on weather/2nd deck? I mean, first gundeck is a bit hard to do any work on now, right?
 
About lightning, I remember that Gaetan B had some posts about lightning a good while ago. He compared flourescent lights with led and halogen if I remember correctly. Pros and cons and did reasoning around them.
 
Keep it up!

Hello,
it is done, the port side is ready!

 

 
And I got a new toy, an LED ring lamp. She is good for working , and taking pictures through it. But that I think only at a short distance. You could dim in 10 stages and change the white temperature from cold, white to warm. And she is amazingly light.

Hello,
and thank you for your comments and likes

So, plodding along slowly. 
Guys, thanks for likes and comments 🙂 
As I've mentioned before the heating system in my shop doesn't really cope with temperatures below -10 C. Right now, we're at -16 C. say no more.
 
Anyway, short sessions it is. 
Sheet for the head sails are led aft through some pendants that are fastened in the stringer on the side.
After some thinking I came up with the idea of using small beads and CA-glue the line around the. A fake splize and some white glue to finish them off.
Third picture is to keep me focused on moving forward. 
The sliding gantry, as Ed calls it is done and the knurly knobs as well. 
Yes, I could have just ordered a bunch from Amazon or wherever, but where would the fun be in that? Thought it was mahogany but it turned (😄) out to be teak.

 

 

 
 

So, plodding along slowly. 
Guys, thanks for likes and comments 🙂 
As I've mentioned before the heating system in my shop doesn't really cope with temperatures below -10 C. Right now, we're at -16 C. say no more.
 
Anyway, short sessions it is. 
Sheet for the head sails are led aft through some pendants that are fastened in the stringer on the side.
After some thinking I came up with the idea of using small beads and CA-glue the line around the. A fake splize and some white glue to finish them off.
Third picture is to keep me focused on moving forward. 
The sliding gantry, as Ed calls it is done and the knurly knobs as well. 
Yes, I could have just ordered a bunch from Amazon or wherever, but where would the fun be in that? Thought it was mahogany but it turned (😄) out to be teak.

 

 

 
 

So, plodding along slowly. 
Guys, thanks for likes and comments 🙂 
As I've mentioned before the heating system in my shop doesn't really cope with temperatures below -10 C. Right now, we're at -16 C. say no more.
 
Anyway, short sessions it is. 
Sheet for the head sails are led aft through some pendants that are fastened in the stringer on the side.
After some thinking I came up with the idea of using small beads and CA-glue the line around the. A fake splize and some white glue to finish them off.
Third picture is to keep me focused on moving forward. 
The sliding gantry, as Ed calls it is done and the knurly knobs as well. 
Yes, I could have just ordered a bunch from Amazon or wherever, but where would the fun be in that? Thought it was mahogany but it turned (😄) out to be teak.

 

 

 
 

Almost right! It's called a 'shankpainter chain'. It is taken around the shank of the anchor when it is stowed.

So, plodding along slowly. 
Guys, thanks for likes and comments 🙂 
As I've mentioned before the heating system in my shop doesn't really cope with temperatures below -10 C. Right now, we're at -16 C. say no more.
 
Anyway, short sessions it is. 
Sheet for the head sails are led aft through some pendants that are fastened in the stringer on the side.
After some thinking I came up with the idea of using small beads and CA-glue the line around the. A fake splize and some white glue to finish them off.
Third picture is to keep me focused on moving forward. 
The sliding gantry, as Ed calls it is done and the knurly knobs as well. 
Yes, I could have just ordered a bunch from Amazon or wherever, but where would the fun be in that? Thought it was mahogany but it turned (😄) out to be teak.

 

 

 
 

So, plodding along slowly. 
Guys, thanks for likes and comments 🙂 
As I've mentioned before the heating system in my shop doesn't really cope with temperatures below -10 C. Right now, we're at -16 C. say no more.
 
Anyway, short sessions it is. 
Sheet for the head sails are led aft through some pendants that are fastened in the stringer on the side.
After some thinking I came up with the idea of using small beads and CA-glue the line around the. A fake splize and some white glue to finish them off.
Third picture is to keep me focused on moving forward. 
The sliding gantry, as Ed calls it is done and the knurly knobs as well. 
Yes, I could have just ordered a bunch from Amazon or wherever, but where would the fun be in that? Thought it was mahogany but it turned (😄) out to be teak.

 

 

 
 

So, plodding along slowly. 
Guys, thanks for likes and comments 🙂 
As I've mentioned before the heating system in my shop doesn't really cope with temperatures below -10 C. Right now, we're at -16 C. say no more.
 
Anyway, short sessions it is. 
Sheet for the head sails are led aft through some pendants that are fastened in the stringer on the side.
After some thinking I came up with the idea of using small beads and CA-glue the line around the. A fake splize and some white glue to finish them off.
Third picture is to keep me focused on moving forward. 
The sliding gantry, as Ed calls it is done and the knurly knobs as well. 
Yes, I could have just ordered a bunch from Amazon or wherever, but where would the fun be in that? Thought it was mahogany but it turned (😄) out to be teak.

 

 

 
 

So, plodding along slowly. 
Guys, thanks for likes and comments 🙂 
As I've mentioned before the heating system in my shop doesn't really cope with temperatures below -10 C. Right now, we're at -16 C. say no more.
 
Anyway, short sessions it is. 
Sheet for the head sails are led aft through some pendants that are fastened in the stringer on the side.
After some thinking I came up with the idea of using small beads and CA-glue the line around the. A fake splize and some white glue to finish them off.
Third picture is to keep me focused on moving forward. 
The sliding gantry, as Ed calls it is done and the knurly knobs as well. 
Yes, I could have just ordered a bunch from Amazon or wherever, but where would the fun be in that? Thought it was mahogany but it turned (😄) out to be teak.

 

 

 
 

Just catching up after some time away, mate.  Looking good.
 
John

Thank you Keith and also Jaager,
the chain-Painter chain holds the anchors like in this picture. According to the 1719 list of establishment the chain should be 15 feet long. But I think, because the channels moved up, it could be at least shorter. But that I will see later. 
 

Hello,
all the deadeyes and the first chainplates are installed. It takes so long, because the paint doesn't dry really good now.
Here are all parts together

 
And there some of them now

 
I did install also the chain-painter chain. What a funny name! I hope it will fit later with the anchor

 
And the whole ship. So for the next weeks I think, I'm busy to install the rest of them.