Wintergreen

And how is the build going Keith? 😉 😄 😄 
(Note, I do not mock anyone for their respective take on EV:s! I myself drive a RAV4 pluginhybrid with much joy and I do not appreciate Greta being Swedish)

And how is the build going Keith? 😉 😄 😄 
(Note, I do not mock anyone for their respective take on EV:s! I myself drive a RAV4 pluginhybrid with much joy and I do not appreciate Greta being Swedish)

I agree on EdT:s build logs as a fantastic source of information. I bought the first Naiad book only for the tools and drafting sections in it.
He didn't use scales, instead he used the profile plan and took heights from it directly. The plan was mounted on a board with a ledge representing the bottom line.
Framing is a lengthy process. It feels it will never end, and then all of a sudden all frames are in 😉 
How is that wood for sanding? I used apple, which I knew would be tedious, but there was less risk of sanding too much.
 
Keep it up!

Im only replacing it because the UK legislation now requires manufacturers to increase their % of electric cars sold by 20% per year. That means that by 2030 you won't be able to buy anything other than electric. I want to get in while I still have some choice left.

Dear all
 
Many thanks for your comments and likes.
@Dr PR You are right re: epoxy Phil, but I ve used beech wood - couldn't have made a worse choice!
 
I ve lost count how many times I have had to go back to the hull. It keeps on changing shape, new cracks appearing, planks shifting, it follows the change of seasons and when it reaches equilibrium with the ambient moisture the planks go walkabout. I am waiting for the weather to get warmer so I can paint and varnish it and then leave it to cycle through its moods. For now, I ve just used some more filler - Ill sand it smooth tomorrow. 


I am using Osmo filler which is wonderfull stuff, run out of beech colour so using colourless but I ll prime the hull so it does not matter.
 
I finished the inner planking and sand it smooth - ish. I ve been scratching my head for some time now, not sure how the floorboards should be arranged. There is a substantial curve at the sides where the floor meets the side planking. Not sure how this would have been made
 




In the meantime, I made another model with my 7 year old daughter - a school project. The photos are terrible but you may just make out the cotton at the top of the chimneys. We really enjoyed the juice previously contained in the hull.



Till next time
 
Vaddoc
 

Thank you so much for saying.   Today I decided to just have a little fun.  I designed and laser cut the parts to make a simple table and chairs for the great cabin.   I also made some cushions which are also laser cut.  Made some for the bench lockers too.  The great cabin is not so large.  Even though this looks like a huge model the cabin is actually very small.  A tiny space with not too much room.  I pondered making a table to show the scale and how little room there would actually be in there.  The table is just 2' x 4' in size.   Also consider that I havent made the closets and cupboards yet which go on the forward side of the cabin.  I will begin work on those now and see how it all looks when completed.  I decided not to even paint the cushions...why not!!
 
It was a really fun project at any rate.  If I decide to use them I may include the parts in the kit.  I also have some 1:32 figures on the way from Chris at Vanguard. 
 


 

Soo, this was a funny little piece to piece together, piece by piece, so to say. All dovetails and pins handcut with jewellers saw and filed to fit. 
It is the forward hatch and stairway just aft of the main mast. I decided to give it a wash of staining to dampen the quite white appearance of it. In order to match I sanded the main hatch  coaming also and applied a wash to it too. When dry I will give it a quick touch up with 320 grit paper and apply a couple of layers of laquer.
The bottom edge is sanded to the same rise as the deck beams so I used the top edge as index when mating all the corners. 
The two small blocks in the upper right corner (one with an arrow) was used to get the right size of the openings, and also keep things fair and square.



Here it is still moist after the staining hence the quite dark colour. It is not glued in place yet either. The real deal was through bolted from top down through the deck beams. I will not bother with that. I know my limitations (I think). 😉 

Cheers guys!

Skipping around some, I decided to tackle the hammock cranes.  Although they will probably make getting to the belaying rails more difficult, on the other hand, I think they will be more difficult to install after the shrouds are on.
 
I'm aiming for something like what is on the Niagara replica--

 
Only more like Glen Greico's model of the Brig Jefferson, without the wood rail at the top--

 
I'm going to make it a little easier on myself and do three ropes vs. four.
 
Here are some attempts at figuring out the size, and exactly how to make them--

 
The first three are some 20 gauge square brass wire, bent, and pounded a little flatter.  The first two are too big, and the third, which I tested drilling holes on, is actually a bit too small, though too thick.  I was able, though, to figure out how to make a tight radius in the bends.  The third is 22 gauge square wire, annealed, pounded just a bit flatter, and with some smaller test holes drilled.  It's close to the right size, both overall dimensions and gauge of the wire, and I think this method will work, though it leaves no room for error on the hole spacing.  I drilled one hole too far off center, and I also broke a drill bit.  I'll have to be more careful, or I will be buying more bits to finish them.
 
I figured out how many hammock cranes I will need (17 per side) and cut thirty-eight (four extra) pieces of brass--

 
These were annealed (heated to red hot) with a soldering torch.   I also routed a groove in a piece of scrap wood as a guide to make sure they are bent to a consistent shape, and as well to hold the piece for drilling the holes (which hopefully will help with the bit breakage)--

 
The ends of the wire that extend beyond the block will be trimmed off--

 
I put a piece of tape at the spot that was the right width for bending the wire--

 
And the bends were given a light tap to make the radius tighter--

 
Then after some straightening and checking the squareness of the shape, the wire was pounded just a little flatter, mostly just to give me a few thousandths of an inch more width to try and center the drill on--

 
 
The holes will be drilled next.  Hopefully that will be successful and I won't have to abandon this method.   After the holes are drilled I'll solder a short pin to the bottom of each one to epoxy them onto the rail.  At that point I may also adjust the angle of the legs to follow the bulwark angle--

 
All for now,
Ron
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you very much, gentlemen, for your appreciation !
 
**********************************************************

Installing the ship’s boats 3
 
The installation was movd further to completion by tidying up the loose ends and producing the bunts for runners of the boat tackles. The runners are about five times the distance between the head of the davits and the waterline long, plus some extra for handling. However, as the rope is slightly overscale the runners were cut a bit on the short side in order to make the bunts not too bulky. The actual runners were cut above the cleats and the bunts were formed over two clothes pins driven into a piece of wood and have a loop pulled out with which they can be hung over their respective cleat. 

Note that the runners for the ‘ready’ boat are not arranged in bunts but in coils, ready to be thrown loose so as to allow the boat being lowered quickly e.g. in a case of man-over-board.

Again, working from the inside out, the next items to go on were the stays for the davits. Luckily, the stays are drawn in the lithographs so that their points of fixation are known. I had to deviate a bit from those drawings, as they pertain to the longer, turning davits for the boats stored on rack, which belong to a slightly later period. The stays are supposed to keep the davits aligned, rather than helping to swing them around.
 
It was a bit of a trial-and-error procedure, before I came up with a protocol for making miniature fake chains of exactly the right length and with loops at both ends. The chains would have been shackled into ring-bolts at the head of the davit. No way of making shackles in this scale, so I just tied the fake chains to ring-bolts with fly-tying thread.

Some people may think now that’s it, but in fact there still is quite a long to-do list for little details:
 
- davit for the stern-anchor
- flag-poles and flags
- for the gun: tampon, wiper, rammer, and two gun-sights
- and the … crew!
 
To be continued ....
 

I made one of his sliding height calipers with a view to using it later. Yes I must get a set of plans mounted that way with a straight edge fixed on the datum.
Both maple and holly are pretty hard, holly the most. They sand OK, and scrape even better. As you say the advantage is that it's hard to overdo it!
I would like to have used apple or pear, but over the last decade UK has lost most of its orchards to intensive farming, and the wood is hard to find. To think we used to burn it on the fire! 

Soo, this was a funny little piece to piece together, piece by piece, so to say. All dovetails and pins handcut with jewellers saw and filed to fit. 
It is the forward hatch and stairway just aft of the main mast. I decided to give it a wash of staining to dampen the quite white appearance of it. In order to match I sanded the main hatch  coaming also and applied a wash to it too. When dry I will give it a quick touch up with 320 grit paper and apply a couple of layers of laquer.
The bottom edge is sanded to the same rise as the deck beams so I used the top edge as index when mating all the corners. 
The two small blocks in the upper right corner (one with an arrow) was used to get the right size of the openings, and also keep things fair and square.



Here it is still moist after the staining hence the quite dark colour. It is not glued in place yet either. The real deal was through bolted from top down through the deck beams. I will not bother with that. I know my limitations (I think). 😉 

Cheers guys!

Oh, I love babies! (especially when you can hand them back to their parents if they get smelly 😄 )
Two of our grandkids are moving away in May, but the other family is still producing. Next one is due in early June 🙂 
 
Oh, and by the way, nice progress Keith!  

I agree on EdT:s build logs as a fantastic source of information. I bought the first Naiad book only for the tools and drafting sections in it.
He didn't use scales, instead he used the profile plan and took heights from it directly. The plan was mounted on a board with a ledge representing the bottom line.
Framing is a lengthy process. It feels it will never end, and then all of a sudden all frames are in 😉 
How is that wood for sanding? I used apple, which I knew would be tedious, but there was less risk of sanding too much.
 
Keep it up!

It has an intriguing hull form with the bulbous section just aft of the center. 
Nice planking and sanding.
 
Keep it up!

It has an intriguing hull form with the bulbous section just aft of the center. 
Nice planking and sanding.
 
Keep it up!

It has an intriguing hull form with the bulbous section just aft of the center. 
Nice planking and sanding.
 
Keep it up!

It has an intriguing hull form with the bulbous section just aft of the center. 
Nice planking and sanding.
 
Keep it up!

I agree on EdT:s build logs as a fantastic source of information. I bought the first Naiad book only for the tools and drafting sections in it.
He didn't use scales, instead he used the profile plan and took heights from it directly. The plan was mounted on a board with a ledge representing the bottom line.
Framing is a lengthy process. It feels it will never end, and then all of a sudden all frames are in 😉 
How is that wood for sanding? I used apple, which I knew would be tedious, but there was less risk of sanding too much.
 
Keep it up!

Very nice planking indeed.
And I'm with John and Andy about the stern planking. Flush with the timber. On my build the stern bulges around the prop shaft also. Flush planking gives hydrodynamically benefits of less drag due to the turbulence that step creates.
 
Keep it up!

No, Gary - can't claim that. I built most of my building jig stuff using ideas from Ed Tosti's incredible build of Naiad on this forum here. I don't recall him using the scale tapes. I'd recommend his log as a masterclass, and I think he has a couple of books on the build that detail each step.
Lists are very dangerous. I'd steer clear if I were you.

Frame setting.
The rabbet is cut and the bearding line will be extended as planks are dry fitted to get the angle right. That 6.5° rake shows clearly in this image. It really throws your eye.

The gantry has lateral and vertical scale tapes to set the sheer and the beam correctly. The square is used to align the tapes to the plan.  
Temporary cross spalls will be used if the frame needs tweaking for width. The frame is set against a perspex support to get the 6.5 °angle right.
 


The frames are glued and dowelled with cocktail sticks to the keel. These will not be seen as the keelson will cover them up.

The frame heads look uneven, but they are oversize and will be shortened when the clamp is put on. They will have a coverboard over them eventually. The outside edges have a margin for sanding and are still a little uneven.
I'm making progress slowly, time is limited in the workshop - domestic chores are calling now the weather is improving, and of course the fly boxes must be refilled.

  At least the boat starts to take shape now.
 

Hello,
during the week the carpenters have cut the beams and today they installed the clamps for the pop deck.
You may see, that there is not much headroom even in the great cabin. From the floor to the upper side of the beams it is 6ft 8in! At the beginning of the deck, 6ft 6in. And the beams are 5in high.

Thank you! Yes, the two sisters gets a baby sister. So, three of hearts I guess. 🙂 

Thank you! Yes, the two sisters gets a baby sister. So, three of hearts I guess. 🙂 

Well, if so, it is a learning experience as you've already stated 😉 
From what we can see of your photos you will be just fine. Don't rush it though, that's never a good idea.
 
Keep it up!