Wintergreen

Silly posts or not, it would of course be possible to do the tail piece using a lathe and controlled bed. It would take two clear passes with the dovetail bit. The pins, not so much because you get a rounded inner surface.
Anyway, I only have a wood lathe and no usable index table (and no dovetail bit of mini size) so hand tools it is.
The coaming came out pretty neat. Here it just sits in it place, not glued in. Two coats of water base matte lacquer applied to the sides. 


And finally a perspective picture of the build. As usual with all the debris in the background 😄 

Pax et bonum!

Post One Hundred and fifty
 
Completing the ports
The two  enclosed Qtr deck ports remained to be done.
Usual top hinged lids into the Great cabin, and a pair of side opening doors into the Coach and Bed space.

3660
I thought I had done with queries about ports, but I’m not entirely convinced why side opening doors are shown in the position they are, constrained by Mizen chains which only allow  them to open half way.
 
They are a feature usually found in positions above the channels, or at the foremost bow port, where space is restricted.

2231
This shot onboard Victory taken when I blagged my way onto the Poop deck shows similar doors in place.
 
The photo also has other interesting features. Note the tube thro’ which the port lid lanyard goes inboard, and that the port only has one lanyard presumably due it being of lightweight construction over a Qtr deck cabin.
 
The final interesting feature for detail fans is the knot secured on the Mizen channel.
 
This is the reason at the time I wanted to look over the Poop.
The knot secures the Rudder pendant which attaches to the chains and is used to control the rudder should the tiller lines be shot away.
 
Back to INDY..
Notwithstanding the above, the side doors do make a nice feature and provide additional interest to the build, more so if displayed closed.

1901a
I used a normal port lid as it makes more sense to me.
 
Stern Ports
There are two stern ports engraved on the lower counter, the plans show use of provided hinges (PE47) over the patterns, but I didn’t seem to have sufficient to do this, but the Laser board Syren straps filled in nicely.

3794
This is not a very prominent area of the model but that is no reason not to enhance it.
3796
Addition of double lift rings and lanyards complete the effect.

3800
The trickiest part is securing the lanyards thro’ the lifting rings using a false splice.

3799
Getting the needle thro’ the 0.3mm line is a severe test of my aging eyesight.
 

1900a
Still lot to do on this build.
 
B.E.
26/02/2024
 

I’m looking at the third photo of the interior and can’t wait to see how you are going to replicate that!

The lego sorting is finished and the eye is Ok for some low dust workshop activities (I wore a pair of goggles just to be sure). Yesterday and today I recommenced work on the hull.
 
The following three pictures show internal views of Cangarda.


In the accommodation spaces the hull frames are hidden behind the internal cladding. I assume that space between the cladding and hull is full of insulation.  The only space where the framing is left exposed is in the engine room. 
 
In the accommodation spaces I decided to use balsa to create the walls. 

This was installed in the fashion of barrel making - the balsa only being slightly thicker than the depth off the webs on the frames. An internal view might make this confusing remark clearer. The internal surfaces will be sanded flat and clad internally when Cangarda is removed from the building board.

With the circular saw being out of action the cutting of the balsa was done with a razor saw.
 
I was distracted from the balsa work when I realised I had mistakenly made the prop shaft casing 18mm diameter when it should have been 14mm. I started carving it back but decided I needed a guide, so I turned up the guide indicated by the white arrow.

Positioning the guide in the casing allowed me to roughly carve the casing to approximately the correct size.

I then shaped a sanding block to the correct external diameter and finished the resizing by sanding.

It will probably take another week or so to finish the balsa work. The walls of the engine room will be devoid of the balsa filling.
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks, JJ, druxey, Michel, and all those looking in, and liking.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
I took a leap of faith and followed Ed Tosti's lead from his Naiad books to start permanently gluing (well, there's always Isopropanol) each transom as it is fit.  I really hate gluing anything until I feel confident about the whole assembly, but here goes--

 
The lowest transom is glued to the fashion timbers only, not to the sternpost, nor the fashion timbers to the deadwood--

 
I wasn't sure how the assembly would work as it's added to, but it's really quite simple.  Here's the next transom in place on the sternpost, and the previous transom and fashion pieces sitting on the deadwood below it--
 
 
The fashion pieces/transom are then just slid up the deadwood, the lower transom fitted into its spot on the sternpost, and the upper transom test fitted with it's tenons into the fashion pieces--

 
If all is satisfactory (and believe me it took many tests and refinements to the second transom piece before it was satisfactory), then it is now glued to the fashion pieces--
 

 
Now on to the third (from the bottom) transom.  This is the deck transom, and it must slope down and to the sides.  I'm on the third try with the piece pictured here--

 
I took a different approach shaping this one.  Instead of shaping it all over at the beginning, I just thinned it at the top (stern) and two lower forward ends, and made sure those fit, as they do in the photo above.   Here is the piece showing the bottom--

 
And the top--

 
Once this fit was good, I then tapered and smoothed the top and bottom before gluing it into place--

 
So far so good.  Remember the transoms are glued to the fashion pieces here, but not to the sternpost, and the transom/fashion piece assembly can be taken off .  There is an enormous amount of fairing that will need to take place on the transoms and fashion pieces once it's all together.  And I don't know how much of that I will do with it as a separate assembly, or glued finally to the deadwood and sternpost.  We'll see.  I am pleased so far with the general method.
 
All for now,
Ron
 
 

It has been an interesting week.  Lots to report!
 
I installed all the beams and hadn't really notice "it" yet. Just in the zone happily moving along with things.
Started putting in the carlings and as I approached midships it became obvious.
 
What shall I do about it? Installing the orlop deck was meant to be a learning experience to prepare me for those above. The orlop deck was decidedly too deep for anything to be readily noticeable, so lets just move on.
 
Installed all the carlings and it was still there taunting me... "what?" you ask... the hump!!
The aft and fore are high and the deck does a gentle slope downwards towards the midships... or at least that what it looks like on the plans.
Mine has a noticeable rise or camel hump in it. I just won't look at it... but it is still there.
 
I decided to work on the ledgers and needed to make card templates as seen above. I installed them low, down on top of the deck clamp as their thickness plus the grating thickness equalled the beam height. This made sense to me. I could find no photos to suggest I was right.
 
I woke up this morning having made a determined decision in my sleep. I should have dealt with it, the hump, when I first noticed it. I hope this time I've finally learnt that lesson!
I measured the damage... about half a deck clamp in height. How it happened is of no importance, besides, I don't know the answer. Possibly my deck clamps slipped under the  wooden clamps used to hold it in place when glued.
 
I determined which deck beams needed to come out. Cut the smaller carlings with my snips and used my flat nosed parallel pliers to persuade the larger ones to come out... almost like pulling teeth. Used the same pliers to remove the deck beams.
 
Marked the deck clamps and chiselled out the material to, at best, make the hump flat with the lowest points either side of it as seen above.

Reinstalled the beams and checked for flatness. Success! Glued and weighted them down until the glue sets up.

I feel much better about it now. When all is said and done I'll be thinking of how I corrected it, not how it is still hidden down there.
 

Post One Hundred and forty-nine 
 
Thinking more about Gunport lid fittings
Before I start the gunport fixing on the Starboard side, my mind keeps returning to those single lanyard fittings.
 
The provided port lids look pretty enough and the brass etch versions provide an easy fixing to the hull with the combined hinge, port stop and flexible tangs for fixing the lid to the hull in the open position.
 
However, I do like to make changes to enhance historical accuracy where I can, and I think Indy should really have double lanyards.
 
On a model the size of Indy, particularly Navy board style, such detail gains more prominence, not having all the top hamper to distract the eye.

3763
Revision One
I have mocked up a revised port using a spare port lid.
I am using Syren laser board rudder straps, cut to size to act as the hinge straps.
These conveniently have nail holes pre-drilled, the bottom one is drilled thro’ to take the ring bolts for the lanyards.
 
The tricky part is representing the port hooks that secure the hinge.
For the purposes of my exercise, I have used separate tiny segments of Boxwood.
The final touch is to add spots of pva to represent the bolt heads.
 
This would work for closed ports but for open ports wire would need to be inserted in the top edge to replace the tangs on the kit version.
 
Revision Two
I had abandoned an early attempt to drill thro’ the bottom bolt head of the kit  hinge due to broken bits. 
I resolved to try again.
 
I filed the bolt head flat and started the hole with an awl. This time I was able to drill thro’ using a 0.6mm drill in a pin vise without breaking the bit.

3772
I secured the hinge to my mini anvil using double sided tape. 
The ideal solution would be if the hinges could be pre-drilled during manufacture.

3780
Modified hinge straps on the Fore port. The example above it is the laser board version.

3781
The forward of the three port lids will be displayed open.

3782
So, the starboard side ports are fitted with correct double lanyard fixings, and the Port side for a central single lanyard.

3748
Perversely, I think the single lanyard arrangement has a better aesthetic.
 
One last thought on gunport lids:
The second and third ports from the bow, adjacent to the Galley, are without lids. These ports lie beneath the Fore Channels.

3784
This is a tricky area, some contemporary models have them some don’t.
Logical thinking would support the fitting of lids for those adjacent to the Galley Stove. One big wave and out goes the stove fire that the cook has spent some time getting up to heat, but I don't think they lit the stove in very severe weather..
 
I note that Alex M’s drawings for his Anson razee do include lids in this area, and incidentally double lid lanyards.
The fitting of port lids in the open waist and Qtr deck areas was removed by Navy Board order dating from 1703.
 
Well, that little excursion has soaked up a day and a half,
...........time to move on.🙄
 
 
B.E.
 
24/02/2024
 
 

At least you are seeing in stereo now.

You've done a convincing job with the lids I'd say. They blend in perfectly with the hull 🙂 
 
Keep it up!

And proud of it!!
After all, I'm of viking heritage 😝

What do I know?? I don't fancy either of 'em 😄 

Thank you lads!
Yes Andy, I too like the lines. Always have. And the cold is done and dusted now as you've guessed B.E. 
John I think you better keep an eye on you Marmite stock, I'm sending the Admiral down to your side of the globe next week. NZ though, but you never know 😉 

Silly posts or not, it would of course be possible to do the tail piece using a lathe and controlled bed. It would take two clear passes with the dovetail bit. The pins, not so much because you get a rounded inner surface.
Anyway, I only have a wood lathe and no usable index table (and no dovetail bit of mini size) so hand tools it is.
The coaming came out pretty neat. Here it just sits in it place, not glued in. Two coats of water base matte lacquer applied to the sides. 


And finally a perspective picture of the build. As usual with all the debris in the background 😄 

Pax et bonum!

Welcome back Mark!
It is quite apparent that you enjoy the drawing business. Also, knowing that you are lefthanded means that you probably (but not necessarily) is quite apt at the artistic side of drawing also, and not only the engineering side.
(We discussed work benches a long time ago and I envied, still env, your lefthand adapted work bench).
 
Also, I like the reasoning about the false floor in the quarter galleries. It is just on another level of interpreting the original drafts and applying them to a somewhat virtual reality in 1:64.
 
I hope that your nerves get back in working order and so,
Keep it up!

Crazy beautiful Siggi 🙂 

And proud of it!!
After all, I'm of viking heritage 😝

And proud of it!!
After all, I'm of viking heritage 😝

Silly posts or not, it would of course be possible to do the tail piece using a lathe and controlled bed. It would take two clear passes with the dovetail bit. The pins, not so much because you get a rounded inner surface.
Anyway, I only have a wood lathe and no usable index table (and no dovetail bit of mini size) so hand tools it is.
The coaming came out pretty neat. Here it just sits in it place, not glued in. Two coats of water base matte lacquer applied to the sides. 


And finally a perspective picture of the build. As usual with all the debris in the background 😄 

Pax et bonum!

Well thank you Gary @FriedClams 🙂 
I totally agree that it is not possible to follow everything here on MSW, there are just too many excellent builds going on all the time.
And yes, cancer can really give you mental ghosts to follow you along. But, being in my mid 50's I am focusing on living many years still! Cheers to you too and all the best!

Barbarian! 
 
John

Wow, that is next level stuff right there. Next up we will se frames with intarsia on the walls depicting some well known battle 😄 
 
Keep it up!

Silly posts or not, it would of course be possible to do the tail piece using a lathe and controlled bed. It would take two clear passes with the dovetail bit. The pins, not so much because you get a rounded inner surface.
Anyway, I only have a wood lathe and no usable index table (and no dovetail bit of mini size) so hand tools it is.
The coaming came out pretty neat. Here it just sits in it place, not glued in. Two coats of water base matte lacquer applied to the sides. 


And finally a perspective picture of the build. As usual with all the debris in the background 😄 

Pax et bonum!

You've done a convincing job with the lids I'd say. They blend in perfectly with the hull 🙂 
 
Keep it up!

Crazy beautiful Siggi 🙂 

What do I know?? I don't fancy either of 'em 😄