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kruginmi

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Everything posted by kruginmi

  1. kruginmi
    I thought about it, then thought about some more, then gave myself more time to think about it. I could think of no overriding reason that the base was still needed with it's current state and all the lines transferred that I could think of. So...... Big day in the Krug household, the Druid-X is free. I added the main mast to provide some sense of proportion. This thing is going to be tall, that is for sure. Next task is going to be the deck beams and then the mast step. I am hopeful the completed decks will slide (easily) in and out. That will help with fitting, gluing and access. The vision is starting to take shape. Keep Building my Friends, Mark
  2. kruginmi
    More progress, The cobwebs are being cleaned out! Next was the linings for the gunports. With everything planked and painted I was not going for actual methods here (plus it follows the same method I used on the full hull model). First issue was to reinforce the ribs where the cuts are to occur so I added spacers. I wanted the resultant cut to result in a firm ledge for the base sill so I insured the correct angle with a piece of wood that went all the way through the hull. Then the spacer material was slid in, marked then cut. After gluing in top and bottom sill I again used the long piece of wood to verify it was laying flat. You can see the port templates I made to continually check the resultant hole was consistent with the other ones and correct with regards to the plans. The side sills were then measured and cut out in a similar manner. Then once again a whole lot of gentle sanding to get the hull back into the correct profile. The top of the second gun port is the railing so the rest of the rib (jig) was removed since it was no longer required. These sills need to get painted red prior to planking the outside - which will be yellow. Next up are the gun and forecastle deck clamps. Mark
  3. kruginmi
    Getting back into it means re-igniting a lot of brain cells and old memories. Returning to the hull I spent a few hours sanding (and more sanding) (and more sanding) to get the whole hull trued up inside and out - primarily on the upper untouched surfaces. I think I am now pretty close. Using the power of the Hahn method, transferring the plan key points to the hull was done quickly and very accurately. This included the top railing location (cut off point from the jig), gun and forecastle deck beams, and the four gun ports included in this cross section: The biggest lines to add are the main chains, which I need to use another sheet of the plans to locate. My next jobs are to cut and insert the gun port linings and also add the other deck clamps. This will allow me to add the actual deck beams and get the mast footing in and all lined up. As a side project I am starting to think through the crew. This will not be a sterile cross section. I got for last Christmas the following 1/48 figures: My initial list shows the following requirements: Cannon Crew: 3 figures Officer: 2 figures Deck Scrubber: 1 figure Rigger on Spar: 2 figures Ratline climbers: 2 figures Person in hold: 1 figure People in hammocks: 2 figures Am I missing anyone? That would be 13 figures. I am going to sort through the 36 figures (2 of each pictured) and start defining who will be used for what. There will be amputations, putty and maybe even some molded parts. A nice side project when things are drying. Another consideration I have to figure out sooner than later is what type of paint to use (and also primer). This will be a painted ship. The hull will be yellow and black (blue accents), gun deck red (except the floor), everything below deck white. Mast will be white with Black tops. I will need to start doing some experimentation on some extra basswood. I need to get the wales black before adding additional planking next to it - much easier. Still undecided on coppering the bottom or just painting white. That is enough for now, Mark
  4. kruginmi
    Thanks for asking Patrick. Finished my third (and last) ~Olympic Triathlon of the season two weeks ago. Hung up my bike at least for this year. Pretty happy with my results, now to get flabby (and modeling) again. I need to be in some sort of shape to deal with the two teenagers in the house - so much drama. Mark
  5. kruginmi
    Excuse me while I get my sea legs again.....but with the start of fall my workshop has come alive again. I wanted to start with something smaller, so opted for the mast top supports. Nothing too huge or taxing but it did involve careful measuring and a couple of slots.... The whole mast will be primed and painted - the mast head black. Doesn't look too shabby for something that will be almost totally hidden before everything is done! It is still totally removable for work on the platform. Stay Building my Friends, Mark
  6. kruginmi
    On to the bibs. One lesson learned I have taken to heart is when working with a complex mating surface (ie non straight) I do not cut the whole part to shape and hope for the best. I always have to file a little here, scrape a little there with the result being the constructed piece is just a little 'off' on one face or another. This is especially true for me for stems. So, I focus on one edge at a time, starting with the mating edge required. The target shape was cut out of the mast join and then (supposedly) transferred to the oversized piece and cut out: Once the join was satisfactory I marked and cut out the top edge, insuring it totally aligned with the bib top on the mast. Now the curving part is easy (compared to the rest). The curves where drawn out, cut and sanded. Before gluing I produced the other bib piece (marking the finished one with which side it belongs to FIRST). Replicating the curve was much easier piece to piece off ship. After all that work (maybe two hours in the workshop) I glued the bib pieces on. Looking at the plans for the two thousandth time afterwards I did realize the bibs were not only supposed to support the top beam but also slightly go into the topmast space. Initially you wonder how the heck that happened. I finally opted to laminate a 1/32" piece of basswood on the inside face for this issue. The top will be painted (black) and it will be basically invisible (unless pointed out, which I try not to do). So, reprieve and lesson learned for the next mast down the road. Stay Building My Friends, Mark
  7. kruginmi
    With a little time I jumped into the bibs and cheeks. First up was to glue in the blanks for both: So far so good. There are a few small gaps but a little sanding and some glue will get rid of those. Also, the mast will be painted so no worries. Now for shaping the blanks. I wanted to protect the mast itself so I used some painters tape to provide a cover for the mast itself. Most of the shaping was accomplished with a razor blade. A relatively short time later I had both sides done: For anyone new to making masts (such as I am) I would suggest practicing on basswood, even if that is not your final wood for your model. Shapes, methods and results can be done to understand the process prior to your final try. Thanks for stopping by, Mark P.S. Finished the second Tri making all my target times. Working towards the final one of the season on September 12.
  8. kruginmi
    That hesitation you have after having successfully created a proportional sized mast and then knowing the next step was to cut into the mast to make mating surfaces for the cheeks..... After having cut the main mast into an octagonal shape I found scrapers much better for making the final shape round than sandpaper. It was especially satisfying laying the constructed mast over the plans and seeing very close conformance to the specified dimensions. So on to the cheeks. I picked out the wood to use as the cheeks and then subtracted that width from the mast head base. Then the bottom of the cheeks was picked out based on period photos (not annotated on plans) and a straight line drawn connecting the two. Then a combination of the jig saw and a lot of sanding gave me a straight join area. I will use two layers of wood to accomplish the bibs. I just think that would be a lot better looking than taking a thicker piece of wood and shaving off most for the cheeks. Slow but sure progress. Another Sprint Tri in four days..... Mark
  9. kruginmi
    This 'step' is coming up soon (pun intended) and I ask for some recommendations. The ship plans only show the mast step from the side: This shows a step on the keelson that appears to be parallel the keelson. Note that the forward well wall pushes against the forward part of the step (no space for wedges). For my full ship model oh so many years ago I made my best guess at how to do this: From other builds (and the TFFM) the steps tend to lie perpendicular to the keelson with wedges forward and aft on the keelson to affix at a particular spot. I am leaning towards using this perpendicular step and not what I did on the original build. Thoughts? Again, this was originally an American built cargo vessel from 1774. Mark
  10. kruginmi
    Now where was I? It seems a common question this time of year. First off, a pic of my primary hobby the last couple of months, finishing a local sprint triathlon (my sixth). Not even close to a podium finish but I enjoy them. So on to the main mast. The Druid plans I have show a max width approaching 1/2" so a wood blank was first cut to this dimension: I then transferred the dimensions at the identified portions of the mast and planed, chiseled, and sanded to the correct profile: next up was to make the appropriate portions of the mast octagonal and for this a jig was required. I ended up making a small and large one at the same time for future spar work. I put a stop block on the bottom for solid footing against the edge of the bench. I dialed in the correct proportions on each face to render an equal octagonal face and hope it works out. It didn't take too long to construct so if the first one has issues I will easily use it as a learning exercise and construct another better one. No worries. So tonight the mast sits in the jig ready for taking off some wood. I intend to leave the tenon and the cap area square to allow laying flat if required. I added an extra area near the 45 degree slot for this flat work. However, my next race is a week from Saturday so tomorrow AM I need to do some running..... Mark
  11. kruginmi
    Nils, I am doing my modeling lately by watching this build. Love the progress. mark
  12. kruginmi
    Moving forward as time allows. Buttoned up the lower hold inner planking: Big item for me is a self imposed milestone, with the addition of the keel, false keel (purpleheart of course) and garboard strake I have now surpassed the initial build in completeness. It wasn't a quick redo by any stretch but one I have no regrets for. I now need to add the 3/32" planks next to the wales and think about painting them black while it is still easy. I also want to get some deck beams in and maybe start getting a main mast prototyped out. Oh, a stand. Alright, a long list of things. Always a next step.... Mark
  13. kruginmi
    Something I had meant to say with the last photo (an admission): Some may notice the limber strake looks differently spaced with regards to the keelson than previously. This is what happens when you just plow ahead and forget the basics. When ready to apply I went to the previous prototype and liked the look so glued in at the same distance. I had conveniently put aside in my brain that the limberstrake should still straddle the futtock join. Of course this join had moved in the new build. The next day this suddenly struck me and I wondered if I should do anything about it. The join was on the aft side of each frame so once this was totally built and mounted 99.9% of people would have no idea of the issue. But I would. Luckily this was the perfect time for access so a quick deconstruction later I was able to re-glue in the correct position. I probably spent more time sweating over the decision to re-do it than the time to actually make the change. Soon as I started planking the outside this wouldn't have been the case. So, lesson learned, never take for granted the next step of construction. Always think it through, especially the why it is there. mark
  14. kruginmi
    Innovative approach to building the deck, I like the result. I am putting that idea into my idea toolchest! Small scales intimidate me but you are making it look easy. Thanks for sharing, Mark
  15. kruginmi
    Completing a first planked hull is a MAJOR milestone that most people that start (especially without the help of this website) never get to. I look at my first hull with all its issues but I was never so proud of the accomplishment. You are doing great, keep it up. Everyday your technique is getting better. mark
  16. kruginmi
    Patrick, thanks for stopping by! I was pretty surprised with this cross section. Having completed the full model in the Admiralty Style I had originally thought this was just going to be just a small scale repetition of that build. I never knew what I didn't know. The inter-relationship between all the components has really been brought home. You can read as much as you want, but until you build...... Everything is there for a purpose, usually specifically tied to other parts of the build (like the thickstuff). This build has been an excellent learning experience for me prior to undertaking a fully planked one (internally and externally). I am looking forward to raising the mast one day in the future. I like your simplicity comment. Once you put in all the work and you do achieve that simplicity in look that is a key indicator that it was done right. Hopefully this will continue in the future (without any more REDOs!). Mark
  17. kruginmi
    As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words... Finished the 'stuff next to the thickstuff' and added the proposed filler pieces on one half of the ship (between the limber strake and keelson). These pieces are not glued. The one piece missing is where the pump is located. Next up is the regular planks in the tween spaces and ponder the filling pieces in the meanwhile. Mark
  18. kruginmi
    Question: Filler Pieces. Another thread on this forum has talked about filler pieces - wood between the frames from the keel up to a certain level to stop water being caught between the frames and causing rot. This would then form a smooth run under the limber boards for water to pass. I 'assume' that the frame location where the pumps are do not have them to create the trough through which the pumps actually work. This cross section does have the pumps included and I intend to keep a couple of limber boards off to show underneath. Now is the time to add them, the question is do I have the right intent and should I? Suggestions welcomed. Mark
  19. kruginmi
    Thanks for all the likes and words of confidence. This is just something I have to learn to live with, probably won't be my last! Focused on getting the thickstuff in the hold. With all the work to define where the futtock joins are (and thus the thickstuff placement) I am a lot happier with the result than the first go round. Next up is to use add the adjoining layer (3/32" basswood) next to the thick stuff (1/8" basswood). Regular planks will be with 1/16" basswood. I should have the lower hold buttoned up within two weeks. The exterior hull will also be totally planked. Sure feels good when you cut something for one side of the build and it also fits perfectly on the opposite side. Stay Building my Friends, Mark
  20. kruginmi
    Sorry Nils, but 2.5 - 3 years for a 'normal' experienced builder (actually probably more like 3 to 4). You, I am betting on under 2 years to completion. Mark
  21. kruginmi
    Cautionary note that you probably are aware of: The plans are 2D and the ship is 3D. By draping the plans over the hull, any curvature in the hull will introduce errors in the 2D wrapped plans drawn to the hull surface, usually most pronounced at the bow or stern. Be very careful of the adjustment variances introduced. The biggest concern is the height of the ports off of the installed internal deck. Good job so far, especially on the work on the transom and not giving up! Mark
  22. kruginmi
    An important point to consider is your choice of seat. The question is less height off the floor than height off your sitting position. If you haven't picked out a dedicated chair/stool, now is the time to do it. Then figure out your optimal resting hand / elbow height to figure out the gap between chair and table top. Then add your chair height. Sounds more complicated than it is, but get it wrong and you have lasting issues.... Mark
  23. kruginmi
    Hey, look at me, I can glue a deck clamp! A long story (with a pretty happy ending so far...): I turned 50 in April and always knew this was going to be a breakout year. Not to linger on the point but after a series of events I was diagnosed with a rare disease (Mommy always said I was special). A few specialists and then a 3 week hospital stay I was back dealing with all the yard and house work that backed up. But tonight, tonight I returned to the yard and cut and glued a deck clamp. Well, that went so well I completed the keelson: Not too much, I know, but a sign of things returning to normal. Now I have to look at a sprint Triathlon in less than 60 days and a lot of training I am behind on so who knows when the next update will be posted, but make no doubt there will be more. Stay Building my Friends, Mark
  24. kruginmi
    Thanks Eamonn and all the likes, Still slogging ahead as time allows. I have attached all three strakes of the wales both port and starboard. I am still using the extra deep slotted keel jig for holding everything together. I have also opted to skip the frame spacers. Using another deep slotted keel jig I insured correct spacing and glued the wales (freezing the frame spacing) then removed the slotted jig. Fairing has occurred only over the wales area - which was pretty easy. Now that the frame has been stiffened I can easily fair the rest (externally). Next up will be removing the frame spreaders and then work on the internal fairing. As is evident in the pics this will not take too much time. Very soon start affixing the thick stuff in the hold. Stay Building My Friends, Mark
  25. kruginmi
    To use a phrase from Monty Python: 'Not dead yet.' Slow but sure the new frames have been generated. Everything triple checked and locked in. This morning I glued the framework to the base jig (excepting first and last frames) and everything is in its proper place: I need to add the walnut chocks to the 18th and 27th frames prior to gluing those in and then fair the hull. The hull is already so close to being smooth, which is how it should be. Shouldn't take too much effort. I did add removable spacer blocks (in the pics) at the mid-points either side and will probably not add spacer blocks. Once the mid-section is good to go I will add the wales for strength. One other difference from previous attempts was to get all the frames in place insuring everything measured out correctly before gluing anything. I only added glue once in place and pushed it around where the frame and the bottom jig intersected. No chance of it grabbing prior to being in its final place. Mark

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